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Showing results for tags 'lights'.
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So now that winter is almost here, and the riding season has or nearly has ended for most of us, what projects do you have planned for the winter? My projects for this winter in no particular order are; Front progressive springs. Service steering head bearings. New tires. Convert driving lights to HID. Lots more lights. Upgrade stator and RR for more power for all of the lights. Replace or add to the two Bad Boys horns with an even louder horn. Build receiver flag mount. Build receiver cooler rack. Clean up some wiring that was done in a hurry last summer. Finish making my version of the valve shim tool. Check my valve clearances. New spark plugs and wires. Carb diaphragms. Center brake light for the trailer. Cooler rack for the trailer. Some of these are not needed right away so will get done on a cash available basis. Dang that is a lot of work. I better get started soon.
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I recently bought a trailer from harbor freight for a trip this summer out west before I pack up for the trip I planning I draggin it around home a lot any advice on max weight, tire psi, suspension psi, safe speed, anything I should watch for as far as harbor freight quality "bearings, balanced tires" etc. Also I haven't tore off the stock lights and put my L.E.D.'s on yet, am I ok to run the standard lights as far as the staters go?
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I removed the old Harley lights off the back of the bike this afternoon. I installed them last year, and since putting them on, I have had to replace two battery's. Okay this is the question Strip lights are LEDs ( Diamond R's) the Harley lights are 1157 bulbs, I ran them together to the brake lights wiring at the license plate housing. Was that the wrong way to wire them? Did I need a Converter for the LED's?
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Here's the scoop: 1985 Venture Royale 148,000 km New stator and RR AGM battery showing 12.36 volts, sitting for 36 hours All lights are LEDs except for headlight, signals and driving lights. LEDs are wiring in to the running light circuits at random, and brake lights are LEDs as well. Outside temp about 10 degrees C or 50 degrees F Here's the gremlin(s) Wayne and I were out for a ride on Wednesday night. Rode for about 1.5 hours then stopped for coffee. Wayne said that one of my LED banks in my trunk was flickering, so after coffee went out to check it out. I turned on the key to light up my life and low and behold, NONE of the LEDs were working. I tried again but still nothing. So I fired up the scoot and revved it up, blink, blink and all the lights were working. Turned everything off and had the same scenario. So I drove home figuring to check it out and fix the issue. Now I don't have any issues at all,,,,can't get it to repeat. Did I leave the gremlins at Timmies, or are they hiding somewhere?
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I want to start riding at night again, and the headlight on the Lady Blue just isn't enough. So I've seen my options: Upgrade to a new headlight bulb. I was thinking PIAA's H4's, or a Silverstar Ultra. Aux Lights: Who to buy from, what kind? ya know? I need ones that provide optimum visuals, and be fully capable of supporting my headlights light cast. Upgrade to HID: Who to buy from? what type? Theres lots of different types of Aux lights, fog lights, hid brands... -.-' -
hi guys, just wanted to say I've installed an HID headlight conversion kit on my Midnight Venture and wow.. talk about sweeeeeet! Installation was rather quick and easy, mostly all plug and play and instead of burning a 55/65W headlight, now I'm burning a 35W HID (Hi / Lo single bulb). They achieve the hi lo beam by means of an actuator that retracts the bulb into a housing etc. Neat.. they do warn you not to flash them fast though. But they assured me its 100% ok for normal usage.. just don't flip them hi lo rapidly.. How bright? wow, I was impressed. it 'throws' lights well ahead of you, illuminating everything well. Dang.. and I thought my last 'super bulb' was good.. Installation is simple and easy to do. Its MUCH easier to do this part with the bucket removed from the bike, simple to do.. You remove the H4 bulb and install the HID H4 bulb in, with the weather seal behind it. Re-install the bucket into place and run your cables. Depending how much stuff you're already hiding under the fairing, you'll have to figure out where to install everything. There is a slim ballast which I velcro'd to the right side of the inner fairing (throttle side of the bike). Plug in all the cables and leads, you can't mess this up as they are all one size for each and weather sealed. You can ground the unit within the fairing frame but will need to run a new power lead back to the battery through the fairing, under the fuel tank to reach the battery. There is a 10A fuse provided which I cut and moved down to the battery area. If I blow the fuse, I certainly don't want to rip the fairing apart to reach it Once everything is tightened up and tucked away, turn on the ignition. The light flashes brightly as it ignites and then warms up to a bright white light rather quickly, especially when it's cold. If the light is already warm you don't notice the flash up when you start. I left it on for 30 mins to make sure I wouldn't have any heat issues and I couldn't feel any heat from any of the components such as the ballast or relay etc.. However, the headlight itself is warm. Did I say it was BRIGHT? hehe.. I'll have to adjust it by trial and error so I don't get cagers flashing me all night long.. Additionally, I also installed the Afterburner LED highway lights on my engine guards. They don't really stand out at all in bright daylight, but cloudy days, dusk and especially at night they are rather eye piercing from any angle.. wow. I hope to have photos of these lights later this week depending on the weather. The HID kits and Afterburner lights can be obtained from this Canadian company at an amazing price, the owner is super helpful, even called me after I left him an email asking about some of the components I was working on. http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/ http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/images/hid_kit.jpg http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/images/afterburnerdl.jpg
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2007 RSV, been mine nearly 3 weeks. All the lights worked for a while, I assume the rain might have affected something, about 1.5hrs in the rain, noticed a couple days later no passing lights, so maybe or maybe not related. The lights are good, all the fuses that are shown in the owners manual are good. I have a push button switch just left of the 12v acc. plug in the dash that I think may be for these lights, there is no toggle on the light housing like some Ive read about. I can see 2 red wires that arent in the harness going that direction, but I stopped before taking anything loose on the fairing. What is involved to look at this closer? anyone else have a setup like this?
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I took my Roadstar lights when I bought my venture, the bulbs are 55 watts, are they drawing too much power? or are the the right wattage for the Venture? I'm thinking of going to a lower wattage bulb, because of all the lights I have on the back of the bike, and for the extra lights I have on the trailer. (4 3 candle watt bulbs as runners) & the LED run, brake, & turn on the back. How many watts am I pulling when I'm running the radio, 3 head lights, and pulling the trailer? and what is the Max out put on the system?
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I put the rear running lights on the + acc. terminal of my skydoc fuse upgrade. Then from the Acc. terminal to the switch, then to the rear lights. There is no relay in the circuit. It looks like the battery resistor mod is also on the same terminal. Question #1-Is it possible that when I turned on the lights that I could have blown the resisitor? It was fine during testing etc...but yesterday evening I decided to hit the switch to turn on the running lights and immediately my battery warning light started flashing and now it always on (with key on) Question #2 If I need to install a relay in the running light circuit, what do I ask for? Question #3 Does the battery resistor mod need it's own terminal?
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I sure hope I don't get pop for these lights...It was either blue or clear...
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Just finished wiring the beast for a trailer using a Reese Towpower tail light converter. Bike lights behave normally after completion. When I connect the trailer and turn the key the headlight fuse blows. I see two possibilities: 1. There's a short in the running lights on the trailer or 2. The trailer running lights are too much draw for the circuit. Any helpful thoughts appreciated...
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http://www.wimp.com/trafficlights/
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When I was installing a digital amp meter I read one members reason to installing the meter directly to the battery by passing the ignition key. His reason was so he could check the meter reading occasionally during the non riding season, incase the battery was not charging he could get a replacement. Well I did that also, but during yesterday's ride I came across another good reason. Rode for an hour and all was fine. Then I noticed that my tack needle was flipping back and forth. Hmmm I thought a tack cable, no it has got to me an electronic gage. Then I noticed that my amp meter was reading 12.4 so I shut my driving lights off. Went to 12.6. Now during the 1st hour I noticed that with out the driving lights my amp reading was 14.1 and with my driving lights it was 13.8. Also the OEM volt gave was down also. Soon I was feeling the engine slightly cutting out but not too bad. I was about 5 miles from the next town. The temp gage was fine. So I figured I would try to make it into town rather than making an emergency stop and take a chance the engine would die and then not get it started again. Got into town and the slower my speed the rougher the engine ran. came about 20 feet from the parking spot and all electric went out and engine died. Scratch my head. Now let me see, last night I added driving lights, rotor lights, front fender lights, and rear trunk guard lights, and the amp gage. Used relay for the driving lights, all the other lights were LEDs except the light that goes around the circumference of the roto, so I did not use relay for them. Used a lighted switch for all. 1 for amp meter, 1 for driving lights and one for all the other lights together. So after calling some members it was thought that the battery might have just totally died. But the strange thing was that the amp meter keep showing 12.5. The 12.5 meant the battery is still good. So I went about check al the fuses, but the key thing was that everything except the amp meter was dead. So then found the main fuse, and it was good. Then there it was. I noticed that the positive terminal screw was loose. The main positive battery cable came off. Now how could that be. Being in a hurry to finish the accessories add ones I missed the hole in the cable and so the cable was wedged on tight. So after about 1 hour ride the cable came loose thus causing the tack fluctuate, the engine to miss, the battery to drain. As long as I was moving a 50 mph the shaking kept the cable bumping again the positive terminal/ When I came to a almost stop the cable was no longer being shaken against the terminal and thus a dead engine. So had I not connected the amp meter directly to the battery, I probably would have tired to locate a Wal-Mart for a new battery. The rest of the ride around Hoods Canel was marvelous. Never rode it before. An after thought, maybe I should carry one of the those hugh main fuses. Under what situation would one of those blow? It looked like it might be a 50 amp to 100 amp fuse, just guessing. -
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929 has stop and led running lights. its 46 liters! i checked some other forums and have decent reviews. decent is better than what i have now...which is leaky and heavy. i know VR tried awhile back to do something with them but i ordered it anyhow. has a one year warranty. i like the lights. i checked Givi and Kappa, those with lights, in that size, run well over 200.00. this was 129.00 to my door. i will update with pics when i get it! -
I have a 2006 RSTD. My Liner had a switch that was meant for running lights. The RSTD doesn't have this switch. So I'll need a switch and light ideas. I'd like to be able to turn them off and on separate from the headlight and the switch has to look like it wasn't an afterthought. Ideas? -
I have never been satisfied with the tail/turn/stop lights on my Harbor Freight trailer. I had changed the bulbs to LED's, but just not enough illumination, especially in the day-time. These were about $16.00 each at Wally-World. A bit of a challenge to mount, but I stuck with the measure twice, cut once rule. Well, I also cut the holes somewhat undersize then shaped them to fit the template I had made. Pretty much labor intensive, but I think the end result was worth the effort. I completed the install with wiring and connectors that I already had. I now have (additional) stronger lighting, located to be much more noticeable. I have some tidying up to do on the wiring, but it's basically completed. Pic 1- rough cut for left light (took a lot of patience and elbow grease to finish) Pic 2- some of the tools and "stuff" I used Pic 3- Hooked up with running lights and left turn signal on
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Some shots from the race. It was tough shooting under the lights. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/CNONT/TMS1.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/CNONT/TMS5.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/CNONT/TMS8.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/CNONT/TMS4.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/CNONT/TMS2.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/CNONT/TMS7.jpg http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/CNONT/TMS3.jpg
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I just put in new plugs, fuel filter, adjusted the carbs and took her out for a couple of long runs 120+ miles both times. Everything was just fine including turning her off and restarting. The rains came and she sat for a week. When I went out to go for another trip I hit the starter the entire bike went dead. I turned the key off waited a minute and turned it back on and all the lights etc. come on just like she's ready to start , but she won't start. I get a click coming from what sounds like under the bike on the right side. If it was a car I'd think the starter was out, but before I start taking off/replacing parts...Anybody have any ideas or suggestions what it might be or where I might start looking? Thanks George
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I was looking at the front of my 2006 RSTD next to my 2009 Liner. The liner light looks SOOOO much better. Is there an aftermarket headlight assembly replacement for the RSTD? Any pictures of bikes with this done? Also looking for passing lights to match them. I was looking at the Yamaha lights and bar, but heard about power draw on the light bar as well as all the other options. Whatever headlamp I decide on, I'm going to get some passing lights that compliment it.
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I'm getting some of the stock running lights for my 2006 RSTD. There are two sets of lights for sale. One is sealed beam, the other is Halogen. What are the pros and cons of each? I have the original headlight....but would not hesitate to replace it with some thing better. I'd like the lights to match....
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Hey VR family I recently bought a 1985 venture royale. The problem is I have a freshly charged battery but when I turn the ignition to the on position I get nothing no dash lights no radio no headlights. When I turn it to acc only the radio and compressor display come on . HELP
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Good Morning everyone, Here is my story, I have been chasing an electrical problem for awhile now concerning my headlight. I knew it was loose connection somewhere cause the fuse wasen't blown and the headlight would work off and on. I checked all the connectors to a point where i was about to run my own hot wire to the high and low switch. Never did i think about the factory instructions on how to install the driving lights. I'm thinking this is the factory who is telling me to tap into the hot from the headlights so they must know what their doing. (WRONG)!! Believe me, dont use their instructions! Listen to the people who have installed their driving lights with a relay. You'll save youself a huge headache. I traced the the wiring to that connector and sure enough... the connector was smoked! After cutting and resoldering, the headlights work perfect! I installed a relay for the driving lights and they work perfect also. So please.......heed this warning, and be smart from the start and use a relay for the driving lights!!!! Thanks for listening! Frank
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went to install my ledtaillight board. took out old bulb. plugged in the board and no lights. I have turn signals, flashers . no headlights and no tailights no brakelight.
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I was at Walmart today picking up plastic buckles to replace the ones on the trunk straps, and I came across these great driving lights for the Venture. They are all chrome teardrops for under $20 bucks...& they come with the wiring, fuse, & switch! http://www.walmart.com/ip/Driving-Light-Kit/16680058 http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/Q/H/QH-87CD_1000.jpg
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1997 Royal star I have checked continuity and everything is a go from the main headlight wire fuse and all switch works everythin. but I can't seem to be getting any power to them and I don't know how to check for power also all fuses are perfect and ther is ZERO and I mean ZERO corrosian some rich guy owned this and it was kepst in a heated garage up north and a temp controlled carpeted one in Naples florida wires connection are all LIKE NEW HELP!!! the service manual has nothing on passing lights
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