Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'light'.
-
Has anybody else here tried Progressive's "Snapshot" discount? They give you a gadget that plugs into your OBD port that tracks for mileage, time of day and braking. FYI, they consider excessive braking to be a decrease in speed of 7mph/sec. or more. I decided to give it a try and I don't like it at all. I think its way to sensitive. I find myself rolling through stop signs and hitting the gas to run through a yellow light now, when I didn't before just to keep the damn thing from beeping. I've tried several times now to stop for a yellow light before it turned red, only to have it beep at me. I don't feel as though I was breaking heavily at all. If I broke any less, I would've been in the hit the red light while in the intersection. I think my grandma would've set this thing off. Anybody else have a similar feelings toward these things? Bill OK, I take that back. Progressive counts 21 hard brakes since the 5th. I was told I would hear it each time I brake to hard. I guess someone was full of crap! Way more sensitive than I thought!
-
I don't know if this has been posted on here yet or not but a new law in Illinois now allows a motorcycle to LEGALLY run a red light if it hasn't changed after waiting for 2 minutes. The law went into effect Jan. 1st 2012. Just a little FYI for people that don't know.
-
So when is the gas light supposed to go on.This is the longest ive ridden on reserve.Was I safe for a few more miles? Gas was so expensive today that I didnt top off so I dont know how many gallons I used. The weekend was great weather and I refused ti full up any of my vehicles with a30 cent hike per gallon.
-
Almost since I've had the '99 RSV when I hit a hard bump, the cruise would drop out and the yellow RES light would be on. I suppose this is the clutch or brake lever switches causing it. When that happened all that was necessary was to push the RESUME button to resume the set speed. Today another symptom has shown up. Now when I hit a bump, not only does the cruise drop out, but now the yellow RES and the green SET light come on together and the blue ON light goes out. A second or two later the green and yellow lights go out and the blue one comes back on. Then the process repeats. Pushing CANCEL, SET or RESUME has no effect. I have to turn the system off and back on to get it to function again. Next bump REPEAT....
-
Hello, Would anyone who owns the Diamond R Accessories RSV LED Saddlebag Light Bar be able to eMail me the installation instructions ??? I'm particularly interested in knowing if it is necessary to lower the mufflers in order for light bar installation. Thanks in advance, Mike
-
I have Diamond R Light Bars installed on my 07 RSTD. The relay has quit working. I have power to it from the Switch the relay is not energizing so, no out put to the lights. Ground is good. Does anyone know where I can purchase another relay? is there a part number for the relay that may be common for a auto parts store to carry IE Auto zone or advance auto parts? Thank You in Advance for you assistance Jim Bell ky.widows.sons@gmail.com
-
So I finally decided to bite the bullet and put LEDs for the '06 RSTD on my list for the fat guy in the red suit. He came through, and became the proud owner of the Custom Dynamics 100 LED tail light and a Turn Signal conversion kit. My need for immediate gratification meant that I installed the tail light first.....and man that thing is bright! My next step, and where my disappointment started, was to try out the turn signals. I'm no Rocket Surgeon, but I figured this was going to be fairly simple. Well, after 30 minutes of trying to figure out why the front LEDs would not fit properly, I tried the rears and found the same problem. They had a diameter about 1/16 of an inch too large. My disappointment drove me to send an email to CD, and I was surprised to get a response on Christmas Day. Although Dave from CD said they should fit, I could find no way they could be mounted without screwing up the weather seal or mounting them cockeyed in the lens. Alas, this morning I shipped them back to CD for a refund and am now looking for alternatives. Anyone else encounter this problem? Alternative sources?
-
I am sure many of you have seen the filler panels that Harleys have between the rear fender and the saddle bags, most of the time they have tail lights, brake lights and of turn signals built in. Has anyone tried to do this on a Venture? I am looking at some leds ideas, but most of what I have found are single illumination (all leds on or off at the same time) strips or bars, nothing that you could use as both running and brake or running and turn signals. Just like to get a little more light back there to go along with my signal dymaics LED bar and my LED tail light. Thanks for any ideas. -
Grandma is eighty-eight years old and still drives her own car. She* *writes: Dear Grand-son, The other day I went up to our local Christian book store and saw a 'Honk if you love Jesus' bumper sticker .. I was feeling particularly sassy that day because I had just come from a thrilling choir performance, followed by a thunderous prayer meeting.. So, I bought the sticker and put it on my bumper. Boy, am I glad I did; what an uplifting experience that followed. I was stopped at a red light at a busy intersection, just lost in thought about the Lord and how good he is, and I didn't notice that the light had changed. It is a good thing someone else loves Jesus because if he hadn't honked, I'd never have noticed. I found that lots of people love Jesus! While I was sitting there, the guy behind started honking like crazy, and then he leaned out of his window and screamed, 'For the love of God!' 'Go! Go! Go! Jesus Christ, GO!' What an exuberant cheerleader he was for Jesus! Everyone started honking! I just leaned out my window and started waving and smiling at all those loving people. I even honked my horn a few times to share in the love! **There must have been a man from Florida back there because I heard him yelling something about a sunny beach. I saw another guy waving in a funny way with only his middle finger stuck up in the air.. I asked my young teenage grandson in the back seat what that meant. He said it was probably a Hawaiian good luck sign or something. Well, I have never met anyone from Hawaii , so I leaned out the window and gave him the good luck sign right back. My grandson burst out laughing. Why even he was enjoying this religious experience!! A couple of the people were so caught up in the joy of the moment that they got out of their cars and started walking towards me. I bet they wanted to pray or ask what church I attended, but this is when I noticed the light had changed. So, grinning, I waved at all my brothers and sisters, and drove on through the intersection. I noticed that I was the only car that got through the intersection before the light changed again and felt kind of sad that I had to leave them after all the love we had shared. So I slowed the car down, leaned out the window and gave them all the Hawaiian good luck sign one last time as I drove away. Praise the Lord for such wonderful folks!! Will write again soon, Love, Grandma
-
Looking to add a light bar but can't seem to find a after market that says it will fit. Do I have to buy Yamahas? Do I need a actual bar or is there another way to mount lights?
-
Anyone have a left over 2ndGen OEM Venture line LED light bar template and wiring instructiions still laying around. Bought a NOS bar locally but the paper work was long gone. I could probably figure it, out and make a template, but thought I'd try this first....
-
I have a short in my light bar. (I guess that's what you call it...The chrome bar that holds the turn signals and the ?Fog lights? They are on sometimes and off sometimes. It is not the switch (which seems to be built on to the cigarette lighter. When they are working, the switch will turn them on and off; but when they are not working, turning the switch on and off several times, never brings them back online. I have removed the seat and jiggled wires and never got the lights to go on or off or even flicker. Even when they are not working, everything else on the bike works, even the front turn signals which are attached to the light bar. My next plan of action is to open the fairing and trace the wires. Just thought I would ask about this, in case there was some common problem that was known and someone could point me in that direction. Thanks dana
-
My buddy is making this device that flashes either a light bar or a 20 watt LED that mounts inside your tail light assembly. What do you guys think is more effective? Do you like the idea of having the LED in your tail light or do you prefer a separate flashing light? Thanks, Ray
-
Hi I'm sure some owners have already fitted a HiD light bulb kit to their bikes. I made the attempt today. I wired the red and black ring terminals directly to their respective battery terminals. When I turned the key on....nothing happened. No light on High or Low I checked the kit fuse and refitted the Halogen bulb it is fine. Any suggestions? Thanks TH -
Sorry about any redundancy on this subject but if I don't ask, I don't know. I'm a new venture owner and trying to absorb as much info as possible. Just obtained HD mufflers with the following part #'s 65591-07 and 65592-07. I seem to remember reading something about not using the the ones ending in 07. Can someone shed some light on this for me. Is it related to having cats and if so, would I still be able to use them if I removed the cat. Thanks, Al
-
Greetings all. I have acquired and fitted a Voyager outrider to my 2004 RSV. It is fully wired but now I need to hook it up to the bike. Has a flat 7-pin plug ready to go into a 7-pin socket, the latter needing to be wired to the bike. I had a look at this post by Don http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=503 but it didn't really help me. I've trawled through the site looking for an answer prior to coming up here with my query. Don (and others) is it best to just tap in to the plethora of bullet connectors in the tail light support housing, of would you suggest that I run all the way back to the battery and associated connectors? I'm figuring that given the fact that I need tail light, brake light and both indicators - it's going to make sense to tap into the area of the tail light, where all those things are found. Sorry for being a nuisance, but I'm ready to do the job and just want to be sure. I have the socket, miles of three-strand, five-strand and seven-strand cable - as well as a bucket load of connectors of all shapes and sizes. Love to hear your collective thoughts and/or advice. Cheers. Spear
-
This is not a motorcycle thread but I still need help. My utility trailer has not had working lights for a while and I feel like my luck is running out. I was stopped once about a year ago and given a warning. So, I bought a new wiring kit, put it on just like the old wiring, fired up the van, turned the lights on, turning signals, hazards and walked back and checked each stage as I went. Everything was working great. Boy did I feel smart. Just then my wife came home. She said, " do the lights work now?". I said, "yes". She said "let me see". I thought "uh oh". She said, "step on the brakes" and then she said, the driver's side light goes out when you step on the brake. (OMG, she is a jinx). So the question is - "Why would the left tail light go out when I put on the brake?" Help - I really hate wiring. Iowa Guy
-
I've been thinking of how to use the approx 1 inch square SS bathroom towel rack tube for my rear light bar. I have 3 Custom Dynamic LED lights. 2 amber directioinal and 1 sequental (Back and forth) stop. Each are about 3/4 inch in with and 4 to 5 inches in length. I'd like input into drilling into the chrome trunk rack. That is from the rear of the VR looking at the back end of the chrome rack, just underneath the bottom of the trunk. I'm mainly concerned with the possibility of the chrome pealing off. I could drill three holes, one near each end and one in the middle of the towel rack and corresponding holes into the chrome trunk rack. The hole in the towel rack would need to be just large enough to put a SS screw and a screwdriver into it. With the SS towel rack mounted, I would then from the bottom of the towel rack and in the center drill another hole to accommodate 6 wires for the LED lights to be routed out of the towel rack and connected to the VR under the seat. The LED wires are about the size of telephone wires. I could feed the wires for each light in through the 3 outside holes and the three LED lights have double sided 3M tape. Each light would then mount centered covering the holes. I could not find any square plastic plugs to put into the ends, but did find some round ones. I'm pretty sure I can make it fit. The circular cap covers the end except the oh so small part of the 4 square corners, of which I have some black silicone glue. Maybe I could put some sort of metal bonding waterproof glue to keep moisture from getting under the chrome where the hole is drilled. Have any suggestions? Also I'm wondering about the drilling process into the chrome trunk rack. That is how to prevent pealing during the drilling process. I know that the location is ok, further back would be a little better, however the rear part of the trunk rack does jet out from the rear trunk bolt location and the 1 inch towel rack does bring it out that much farther. Then the observers behind me are a good distance away so it would be pretty much eye level. The turn signals providing directional signals are very eye catching and the stop lamp will be like the Sequential light like in the show Knight Rider. The center red light will sequential back and forth when the brakes are applied. All the light movements are very eye catchy and hard to ignore. The movements of the lights seems to draw the eye balls.
-
I've installed new plugs, synced the carbs. Then on a test drive, the MKII sounded much better, better all around performance also. Then at one back road stop light, when I got the green light I throttled the VR when I shifted from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd, of which I can't recall it backed fired in the shifting process, when I left off the gas. Does the Back Fire indicate I need to make an adjustment?
-
With Halloween just around the corner, I thought that this video was kind of neat. Now just think about this. A member recently spent about $200 for an LED upgrade of his rear lighting - tail light and signal lights. Just imagine what this guy must have spent! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAXMtUCcp7o]Halloween Light Show 2011 - This Is Halloween - YouTube[/ame] Andy
-
I have a strange question here, does anyone have a set of the driving light brackets that I made that they didn't install on their bike? I would like to try and get a set back if someone has a set laying around that they didn't use, please send me a PM if you have a set and want to get rid of them....Thanks -
OK I know that this has been discussed in the past. most recently that I know of, at [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2536]Turning left on a red when the light won't change. - VentureRider.Org[/ame]. Most of this info is in that thread, but that thread is a discussion on the legality of a left turn on red when the sensor does not see you so this info is kind of lost. While at the WI MD (thanks again Jeff) this subject came up for discussion. First some background. What got me started on this was a newly built intersection near my house that I need to go through often. I tried every trick that I ever saw for trying to get that light to change for me, since the pickup coils are under the nice new pavement and were put in before the final layer of pavement I have no clue to exactly where they are. I have tried; Lining up on where I think the coils are. Side stand down. Center stand down Turn off engine and restart. I wussed out on the one that says to get off the bike and lay it down on the coils. I tried all of these in many locations to see if I could find a spot and method that worked. None did. I tried calling the city to see if it could be adjusted and was told that it is adjusted per spec and that increasing the sensitivity to "see" a motorcycle will cause false triggers from large vehicles in the next lane. This intersection is so busy that it can take 10 minutes to find a hole in traffic to legally shoot through on the red. I have done some experiments with the concept of adding a magnet to the bottom of the bike. There are some commercial units available for this purpose, and some have tried mining old hard drives for the Rare Earth magnets, or use magnets from the hardware store, none of these have shown much promise or benefit, they are just not strong enough. The magnet that I used is a 2 x 1 x 1/2 inch N52 rare earth magnet. The magnet that I used is http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08-N52. It sounds small but it is rated as capable of lifting 195 lbs. Watch your fingers while handling this and think twice about where you set it down. This magnet will pull the picture on a monitor or TV from 2 feet away VERY possibly doing permanent damage, There are warnings that people with medical implants like pace makers or defibrillators not handle these magnets. I mounted this magnet to the center stand on my 1st gen since that was the lowest point on the bottom of the bike and I wanted to keep it away from all sensors and electronics on the bike. To date I have noticed no ill effects to the bike. I rode to the intersection from hell and as Murphy would have it a cage pulled up on the other side of the intersection to trip the lights for me. I went around the block and tried this 6 more times and every time a cage pulled up at the same time from across the street. Where the heck were all of these cages when I really wanted the light to change??? Finally I arrived at the intersection alone and within 20 seconds I was looking at my very own green left turn arrow. I did this 5 more times and every time I got a green arrow. So just to be scientific and make sure that there was not some other factor involved, I removed the magnet and left it a good distance from the intersection, and spent the next 20 minutes trying every trick in the book to make that light turn green. Nothing worked, just like before. The next test was to put the magnet in my sock and walked up to the light and I still got a green arrow, at which point I beat feet before the man in blue showed up and I would have to explain why I was stopping traffic on a busy highway by messing with the lights. I put the magnet back on the bottom of the bike and have not been held up by a signal light anywhere since last April when I got the magnet. I do still have to line the magnet up with where I think the wires are. If I pull into the center of the coil I still will not be detected. This is a minor issue that I can live with. I know that there are doubters. I know that even Snopes says that this will not work. I am just relating my personal experience. As a possible side benefit to this very strong magnet, I have found nails and screws sticking to it that may have been destined for my back tire. OK that was long, I'll shut up now.
-
Well figured I would post this here just to see if we have any out board Techs or folks familiar with this engine. Here's what I have got. 1995 Yamaha 225TXRT. Carbureted (6 individual) 76 degree V6 First noticed the problem as a surge sensation running at 4000, would get an intermittent burst for 1-2 secs then drop back. Had a little miss stutter I could detect coming up on plane, but otherwise planes easily (226 GW Seafarer). Replaced spark plugs, ran the same. Ran it for about an 1 hour after that. Checked the plugs and number 2 looks new. Here's what's been done. The engine has spark on all six at idle and I have visually verified spark at the spark plugs on all six at cranking speed (old school test with plug in the boot). Checked the ignition coils resistance primary and secondary windings. All OK per spec. Checked the resistance on the spark plug caps and found #2 way out . Replaced the spark plug cap on # 2. Test ride no change. Swapped complete coil assembly between #2 and #4, Still no change, problem does not follow the coil. Still missing with no coloring of the #2 plug. Resistance of Both Charge Coils and each of the 6 poles of the pulser coil are in spec. Using the Yamaha (Electro Specialties) CDI Tester (Black box with the dial, light and High/low switch) The Pulser coil (all six poles), the charge coils, and the CDI outputs to the ignition coils (using the specified load coil) all test in range. All of them tested higher than the minimum specified set point. Spec for CDI output to coil is dial at 75 and switch on high. All 6 cdi outputs would continue to light the light up to a dial setting of 82. Cranking speed with all plugs removed. Same for pulser coil output. Spec is 45 and low switch. All 6 poles will light the light with a dial setting up to 55. Repeated the output tests with the Yamaha CDI tester with engine hot. Same result. Ran boat with Air intake removed and confirmed fueling on #2 with same spray pattern as 4 and 6. Fresh fuel, 90 octane No ethanol Recreational marine fuel, New Racor filter, have never had any fuel starvation problems. Still have even compression 125-130 in all cylinders. Can Pulser Coil check good at cranking speed and be bad at higher Speed?? Pulser coil is over $300.00 don't want be wrong on this. Anyway to check if I'm dropping the pulser for #2 under load?? Don't have a winky blinky (Yamaha Diagnostic Tool YB 6444), but the manual says it works on mine. Is the winky blinky a reliable test? Would you condemn a pulser based on the Winky blinky code? Have I missed, not checked anything obvious that would effect just #2? Thank You in advance for any help, suggestions, Derrek -
Several threads here got me thinking about LEDs and our bikes. After looking a the price of LED boards for the 2nd generation RSV, I was in shock, they are IMHO EXPENSIVE, but probably worth it. Not wanting to spend the dollars on lamps with unadvertised light output and being a reasonably frugal guy, I looked for an alternative. I did some research and found the following lamps are installed in our bikes from the factory. cp = Candle Power. Brake/Tail: 1157 with a Ba15d base: 32/3cp Rear Turn: 7507A with a PY21W base: 22.2cp Front Turn/Running: (Unknown bulb) with an unknown base (Still researching): 24/2.2 cp So a quick look in Sylvania Automotive Lamp Catalog I found the following bulbs with SIMILAR bases 2357LL with a Ba15d base: 40/3cp (the LL stands for Long Life. On close inspection it is actually a Krypton bulb.) 2357A with Ba15d base: 30/2.2cp (the A is for Amber coating on the bulb) So I put a 2357LL in my Brake/Tail lamp housing. It was a 25% improvement in light output on the brake light, from 32cp to 40cp!!!!! No improvement on the running light, 3cp to 3cp. BUT it is a longer life bulb. Rated life is 2,000 hours on the brake light and 10,000 hours on the running light. I then put 2357A bulbs in all of the turn signal housings, but I had to remove one of the indexing pins from them. IIRC the front and rear required different pin removal so CHECK it before you do it!!! I used a pair of small diagonal cutting pliers and cleaned it up with a file. If my math is correct I had a 35% increase in light output on the turn signals and a 36% increase in light output on the front running lights. Total cost: $9.40 (minus 10% as my local auto parts store gives a military discount) plus sales tax. WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!! this is for two packages of two 2357A bulbs and one package of two 2357 bulbs, so I have a spare brake/tail lamp. I will try to give it to one of my H-D riding friends. So the upgrade cost me less than $10 which is quite a few dollars less than even one LED board and as an added plus they available at all auto parts stores so I did not have to pay for shipping and wait for the brown truck to arrive. Almost instant gratification. I have not seen where the LED boards list the light output (if you know this, please point it out), so I cannot compare the output levels with my inexpensive bulbs until I park next to someone with the LEDs in their bike. The LEDs have a longer life span. The LEDs also have a sharper on and off curve, which should make you more visible when using your brakes or turn signals. The LEDs require you put in a load resistor so your turn signals flash at the normal rate (there goes the power savings), or you must find an electronic flasher unit, at an additional cost, which I have not yet found but they must be made by somebody. With the money I did not spend on the LED boards, I will put that to my first set of replacement tires.........or buy several tanks of gas. Your comments are requested. UPDATE #1: I found two other bulbs that will work as tail lights, but not in the turn signals without changing the lenses as they are not offered in amber. The first is the 3496. It offers 43 CP on high and 3 CP on low. On high it yields a 31.25% increase over stock 1157 at 32 CP verses a 25% increase for the 2357LL at 40 CP but at a cost... they only have a rated live of 600 hours on the bright filament and 5,000 hours on the low, verses the 2357LL with 2,000 on the bright filament and 10,000 on the low.... also locally they are priced at $3.59 per bulb while the 2357LL are priced at $3.44 for two bulbs.... To me, the increased output of 3 CP over the 2357LL is not worth the shorter service life. The second bulb is the H1157 offered by Candlepower (Which is owned by Daniel Stern) (the H is for Halogen)and probably made by Narva. It has a 107 CP bright filament, and a 25 CP low filament!!!!!! But don't run off an buy them yet!!!!! Compared to the 1157 or 2357LL bulb the bright filament is 234% and 168% brighter respectively, but all that light comes at a cost. Only 400 hours service life and all the heat it produces MIGHT melt your tail light housing. Sorry, but I'm not going to test it on my bike!!!!!! OH and now for the bad news, they are priced at $10.35 plus shipping.... each.... The big draw back IMHO is the MUCH brighter running light. It puts out a whopping 25 CP which could be confused for a brake light by some drivers.... this running light is 733% brighter than all the other lamps!!!!!! Like I said, I will not be trying this lamp, but if you do, please provide some feedback!!!!! UPDATE #2: I have put the 3496 bulbs in the brake and turn signals on the rear and they are working fine!!!!!!!!! To bad the 3496 does not come in amber..... or I would use them in the front of this bike. UPDATE #3 I installed a 15" LED stop light under my trunk. I got it from Innovative Light in the factory seconds section HERE for under $8.... plus shipping. I got the slimline in red with retroreflective accents..... not in stock as of this posting but you can check them from time to time. UPDATE #4 This breaks the Poor mans tip but I replaced the stop/tail light with the Street Magic 100 LED Genesis II LED Tail Light from Custom Dynamics HERE and I am impressed!!!!! quick on and off time, wide viewing angle and it is BRIGHT, but it does break the bank........at $90 when I got it.....
-
Trying to figure out a small problem with a LED light. I have power at the end of the wires, I have continuity across the LED poles, but I have no light??!!! Now I am no electrical wizard, but it seems that with those premises I should be illuminated. What's going on, do LED's not work the same way as a regular bulb? Enlighten me please!!
.thumb.jpg.5bc608c29d230c44c77c79acb0510cd8.jpg){kind=avatar}
