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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
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The #4 cylinder on my 83VR isn't firing. I verified the ignition coil works by swapping the plug-in with the #3 coil. Went to the back of the bike and swapped wires on the pickup coils to confirm that wasn't the problem. The #3 ignition coil when hooked to the #4 pickup sparked without problem. Before having this much fun, I checked resistance throughout the ignition system. Here is what I found: Pickup Coil #1 119.7 Ohms #2 122.2 Ohms #3 118.7 Ohms #4 115.9 Ohms Ignition Coils: #1 3.5 Ohms #2 3.6 Ohms #3 3.4 Ohms #4 3.5 Ohms Resistance across the TCI +12V to ground is 392 Ohms. I pulled the back cover off to check for any major signs of corrosion or burning. Nothing nasty, and the solders look solid around the heatsinks and plug connectors. I'm wondering if the transistor that fires #4 might be shot? Any other ideas, and ways to test? Anyone know which transistor fires #4? I've attached a photo that laxman used in a post last year about his TCI.
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Well I need to quit messing around and get the ignition switch replaced. I was kind of hoping the problem would go away but it isn’t going to. I was ridding home from church tonight when my bike just went dead. After I coasted to a stop I turned the switch off and back on & thankfully it fired right up. Does anyone have a recommendation about who to order the switch from?
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I have lost all power 2x now. Once while going 55 and once while parked and both after at least 15miles. I did not have power to anything either time. No headlights speedo etc no power to start the bike. Twenty minutes later all is good. I guess the igniton switch is bad and needs cleaning checking out. I suspected this or battery issues in previous thread and several members agreed it was ignition. I agree after seeing this again as it did it while parked. Turned the key on and off over and over and nothing. Then 20-25 minutes and I'm good to go. It appears that this may be a heat issue. Perhaps the driving lights are wired thru switch causing it to heat up? I reviewed what I can find on this site about the ignition switch issue but find that the temp fix thread is dead. Another person mentions a site (bukeyes perf) but I did nto see the part there. Can someone point me to the fix for the temp fix and explain why I should use it and secondly does anyone have directions on removing the switch. I was told to move the tank back and that there is a security bolts to deal with while another mentioned that he took his off without moving the tank and took 15 minutes. Can someone clarify before I start this week? Any help would be appreciated. Jb
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I was setting up an ignition coil test to attach to my TCI bench tester and during the test where I put the TCI thru several tests I started getting arcing from the lower solder joint for the primary coil wiring to the support bracket which holds the coil to the bike bracket. This arcing was very strong and it was jumping at least a 1/2 inch gap. This would surely affect the performance of the bike and I wonder if the gas mileage would also suffer. I was still getting the spark jumping across the spark plug as it's supposed to. I then coated the solder joints with plastic dip and I didn't see any arcing but I'll be doing some further tests. In any case I will be applying plastic dip to the 4 coils on my bike. db
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Well while in El Paso I bypassed the ignition as shown by the excellent photo and verbal instructions from flb78! Thanks again. Have now had time to take a look and hook it all back up (after also replacing battery) and found out the ignition still is a NO GO with new battery in and wires replaced to the ignition. So leads me to believe the ignition is still out. I can live with it for a while. Going to get with dealer tomorrow and see if warrenty is still in effect! It is an '03 and I was told by previous owner June is the end of the warrenty! QUESTION...when the ignition went south on you did you also lose the sound system? I have no sounds anymore. Haven't checked the fuses on that end again. Just assumed it was connected to the ignition. Thanks again. And I am on the assistance list so if any of you are over this way and need help let me know. flb we may have to have a maintence day some where between here and there sometime. SS
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I would like to install riser extensions (1.5 inches) on my RSV Midnight 2007. I found a pair at Baron Custom Accessories part # BA-7430-00. Before buying them, I would like to be sure it's perfect fit without problems. The lenght of the cables, clearance with the ignition chrome ring when the steering is turned full left or right ... Please answer me and let me know the best risers I have to install without problem and modification. Thank's Ti-Lou Mont-Laurier, Québec, Canada
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We were on the return trip from MS and about 50 miles from home, doing 76 in the left lane - all of a sudden - the bike no-go no-mo. I thought at first the bike was out of gas, but switching to reserve made no difference. And the last I checked I had 3/4 of a tank. So as I eased over to the shoulder with a dead engine, I shut it off and turned it on again - nothing. Once stopped, I checked the battery - all connections were good and the battery was at 13.5v. All the fuses, including the 30 amp main checked out as well - nothing blown. I had no dash lights, headlights or turn signals with the key ON, but on ACC - the radio worked. I suspect it is the ignition switch, in part because when I had gassed up earlier and was pulling out from the station, I noticed the speedo, clock and fuel gauger were not working. I shut it of and turned it on and POOF - they all worked. Odd, I thought - but everything seemed OK. Then as I was going down the road, a couple times I felt a lack of of power - like she was missing or something. Then maybe 50 miles from home - she died. So the question is - is there a "brain box" on these bikes that could be out? Or is the ignition switch the most likely culprit? Or is there a bad connector or wire that commonly comes loose? I remember reading something on the site here about these switches going funky for other members. And if it is a bad switch - for those that have had it replaced - what is the cost range I can expect? (just so I can decide which arm & leg I can live without) And, as luck would have it - I broke down on Hwy 151 N - directly across the street from the Honda/Kaw dealer, and the owner happened to be in the shop on Sunday and came over to see if he could help. Not wanting to disassemble the bike completely on the side of the road, with a storm moving in, he went back and got his trailer and loaded my bike & trailer and put it in his shop. I'm awaiting the diagnosis from them today. Nice guy - he went out of his way for us. Beaver Dam Honda/Kaw for anyone nearby the area - if their mechanics are as good as the customer service the owner showed my wife & I - I'll drive out of my way to give him some business again. On purpose next time. So - useful insights, please - from those that have experience this issue.
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Recently my house burn't with my key's in it. I looked and dug through the debris but with no luck. I have called all the locksmiths in town but they all say the same thing "We don't do motorcycles". I called the dealer and they can sell me an ignition key but i would have to buy seperate keys and locks for the trunk and saddle bags. Any suggestions? Jerry Smith "electrictat2" 1993 Yamaha Venture Royale
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Where can I start looking for an after market ignition for a 99 Venture? Yamaha wants over $280 for it. Thanks
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Bought an 89 VR this past Easter weekend and fell in love with her on the ride home from Houston... only problem I am having is a persistent ignition noise (increases with RPM) in the headset only in intercom mode. Stereo and CB are clear as a bell... but at highway speeds the intercom sounds like a herd of bumblebees are in my nut cover. I have checked the threads here and haven't found anything addressing ignition noise except from a system-wide perspective. Cleaned and dielectriced all the connections in the headset system... both driver and passenger... no help. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Has anyone ever had their ignition switch to freeze up? Mine did. Went to a NAPA shop across the street and got a tube of graphite and put it in several times before the key started working, the switch did it again four times before I could get to the shop. They are going to replace it,I hope with s lock that will match my key. Covered under warrenty,cost $185. Hope I never have to pay for one. tew47
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I need an electronics expert. As I look at the wiring diagrams and the ignition modules for the 1st gens, it looks like there is a separate pickup coil for each cylinder. And as I look at those things on the 2nd gens, I see only two wires for the pickup coil. It looks like there is only one pickup coil. So how does the ignition module know which spark plug to fire?
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Well, I don't know what to think of this article exactly, but if it's true it could mean I'll have to go back to writing letters to the editor. Says on the following link to CNN that software developers have developed a "Stupid" filter for on-line forums that automatically puts stupid comments in the trash. Wonder if they can build one that works as an interlock on the car's ignition? http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/2007/11/12/100954554/index.htm?postversion=2007110712
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I purchased a new ignition switch to replace my old one. However - I cannot figure out how to remove the 2 bolts that hold the ignition switch on !!! The bolt heads are smooth with a flat top in the center - and they are threaded into a base witch is welded to the frame. Is there a special tool I need to remove these - or is this a drill the bolt out and replace them? I am hoping someone knows the secret to this? Thanks in advance.. Stuart
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Was out on the bike this weekend. Ran a couple of errands (maybe 35 miles - 2 / 3 Stops). Then came home, picked up the wife and went out for some lunch. We came out, and the bike would not start. Turning the ignition switch cause the gauges (fuel etc) to flash for a second then shut off. No lights at all on the bike, no netural indicator. Oddly enough the radio still works? Could this be a blown fuse? or ignition switch failure? We tried jump starting it, not even a click from the starter. Would a short in either the passing lights (have the switch off) or the brake lights (have a back off installed) be causing such a failure? Thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Stu
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Hi I've compiled some information which may be usefull for anyone who is having problems with their 1st gen venture This will help you to check out the Ignition coils and pickup coils without digging them out to confirm they are within specs. Feedback is welcome (good or bad) DonB http://www.venturerider.org/images/tci.jpg
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Went to start the bike this morning and wouldn't you know it--completely dead, not even a dash light. I took the battery to a battery shop and they tested it....only 5 volts. They put it on a charger for a few hours and when I picked it up later it was fully charged. They told me the battery was good and something must be drawing. I re-installed the battery and checked all the circuitry and everything was okay except I found that the cd changer was drawing juice. This is the cd changer made for this bike.I can't figure out why it's doing this now. Never had a problem with it before. I have noticed that when the 6-pack is installed, I can hear it go through the motions whenever I turn the ignition on, even though the audio system is off. I just figured this was normal. Everything is hooked up as it should be and runs as it should, but why is it constantly sucking juice. It stops as soon as I disconnect the C-bus cable. When I connect it back up, it starts to draw power again even with the ignition switch off. Can anybody help with this one? P.S. I should mention this is still my original battery (2004) Also, ever since the bike was new, there's alot of clicking (1-2 sec.) whenever I turn the ignition on first thing in the morning. Is this normal? I'd appreciate any and all advice. Thanks so much.
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I took my ignition out to let the local dealer rekey the lock. I got it back today and went to install it over lunch and got a big surprise the ignition no longer works. I figure I had to have screwed somthing up so I got some picts and am asking for help. Pict 1 is the contacts that the ignition is supposed to set up against. Pict 2 is the way "I Think" the washer/contact plate is supposed to go in. My issue is that the little pin that the arrow is pointing to looks like it is supposed to make contact with the inner set of contacts on pict 1 but the pin does not stick out far enough to make contact. What am I doing wrong:confused24: I am stuck. ANY insight would be helpful.
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Because I have seen several reports here lately about coil failures, I went searching for an easy way to test the ignition coils on our bikes. I found and ordered a Motion Pro ignition tester and it came in this week. According to our service manual for the RSV, the minimum spark gap for a good ignition spark is 8mm (.031). Now you could pull a plug, use a known good plug and test the spark but that really doesn't give a good indication of the strength of the coils. This device allows you to check the strength of the coils without pulling the plugs and the gap is adjustable so you can increase it to see how strong that spark is. You can also easily see the color of the spark. I tested it early this morning and found that it is easy to use and works very well. Just thought I would pass it on. It is inexpensive and I think it will be a great diagnostic tool. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/ignition_system_tester
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i bought an 83 venture for parts and it turned out to be a great fixer upper. problem is that i don't have the keys to it. does anyone out there have the complete ignition set for a venture for sale. i need the main ignition, saddle bags, fuel cover, rear bag and dash compartmet ignition and key? Ray.
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Got a question. My bike is missing on one cylinder. Changed out the coil and the wire and of course the plug, but still have the problem. Is the ignition controlled by the computor or is there something else to check?
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My ignition switch will not turn to the lock position when I try to lock the steering. I know all about pushing down and releasing the key before turning to the lock position as well as having the wheel turned all the way left or right. I am wanting to remove the switch to find out why it is not locking. How do I get at the bolts or screws that hold the switch in? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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I've seen a couple of posts lately where 2nd gen owners have reported ignition coil failures. I think that both of those bikes were under warranty so you bet I would let Yamaha replace them. For those who are out of warranty though, there is an alternative. Dyna, same people who make the Dyna 2000..now 3000...ignition module also sell coils. If and when I ever need to replace my coils or wires, I will try the Dyna units. I know that Dyna makes quality products and I like the fact that the wires are not molded into the coils so you can change the wires when you need to. I'll never understand why Yamaha molded the wires into the coils on these bikes. Makes no sense at all to me.
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Many times we over look the simple and expect the worst TCI failure. Most ignition failure causes are connection issues and not the TCI. Here are the steps I use to trouble shoot an ignition problem on a first gen with suspected TCI problem. 1. Remove battery and battery compartment. 2. Unplug both connectors from TCI box 3. With a digital ohm meter connect the black neg lead to the black battery cable. Do not connect to frame or chassis for a ground. Now measure with the red lead of ohm meter to a frame bolt or engine bolt. You should have O ohms or slightly higher.The ground connection to chassis is good.Now we are ready to measure TCI connectors. 4. On the smaller 6 pin connector measure the black wire. It should read 0 ohms or slightly higher. This is the gnd output from TCI to the pickup coil center taps. It may be easier to insert red test probe into the back of the connector plug to take these readings. NOTE: The ground comes from the TCI. You won't have a ground connection on the stator side with connector unplugged. The main ground to the TCI comes in on the output connector from the frame and loops through the TCI to the pickup coil input connector then through the pickup coil connector along lower frame next to stator. 5. Now measure the Orange,Gray,White/Red,and White/Green wires one at a time. These are pickup coil inputs to TCI.They should read 115 -125 ohms normal. If you don't have this or loss of one or more the most common cause is connector failure. (see white connector plug along frame above stator and clean contacts). 6. The Black/White wire is the Emergency Inhibit line. If it measure 0 ohms or has a low resistance the bike willl not start. Normally this measurement is done with the battery hooked up via jumper cables and ign switch on. Various sources through energized relays can inhibit this line. Such as emergency killl switch,side stand relay,tilt switch.clutch switch,etc. 7. With battery unhooked lets move to the 8 pin plug. measure the black wire should be 0 ohms system ground. 8. With the battery unhooked move the black lead of ohm meter to the Red + battery cable and turn on ignition switch. We are now going to measure the resistance back through each Primary Ignition coil to the battery positive lead. 9. Measure the Orange,Gray,Yellow, and White wires. Each should read 2.5 to 3 ohms ref the red battery lead.These are the induction output wires that fire the energized ignition coils, The Red/White wire is 13.8 volt supply line and should read 0 ohms.Thats it for the dc continuity test of connections to TCI. The Black/Yellow,Black/Red wires are from the pressure switch and should only be measured with engine running. The pressure sensor converts pressure into voltage which varys the timing advance with changes of pressure caused by rpm increase. These timing changes can be viewed with a Oscilloscope measuring the pickup coil input pulse and the corresponding output pulse for each cylinder.This is not something you need to worry about now. If all is well to this point and the obvious has been checked including Spark plugs and plug wires it's time to check the TCI. Before removing it (a patience trying task) I would plug in a spare unit. Every first gen owner should have a working spare or know where you can borrow one. If the TCI is defective remove from bike, open the case by removing the 4 phillips screws exposing the soldered side of circuit board. place in oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes to remove any moisture in module. You can remove any corrosion from solder side of circuit board with gentle strokes of an old tooth brush and an electronic contact cleaning spray. If you have soldering ability and a low wattage iron resolder all connections below the heatsink nuts on the circuit board. These are the contacts leading to the out side connectors. The heatsink nuts hold the switching transistors that fire the ignition coils. Resolder the 3 terminals of each transistor. with a magnifying glass carefully inspect the remaining solder connections on the board. Anything that has a dull color or hairline crack should be resoldered. You have now fixed probably 95 % of TCI failures. Actual componet failures are rare and can only be accomplished by electronic techinicians with specialized desoldering stations and a schematic of the TCI. Not to mention parts availability for a 20 year old technology. Watch used TCI's can be bought on Ebay ocassionally for $50 bucks. 10. The best way to check a TCI is on the bike but I have plans for bench testing later.
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I'm installing a Sirius radio and want to wire directly into the ignition switch so power goes on and off with switch. Theres 4 colors and I don't have a tester handy. Anybody know? It's a 2005 RSTD. Thanks. Mike
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