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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
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I traded my 03 for a new 09, and got 5 keys after I got home 1 key worked the ignition and trunk and 1 set works with one set of bags the other set work with the other bag. So I called the dealer and talked to salesman he said to stop in and talk to him and he will get me a nother key for ignition, stoped in and salesman is with someone so I walked over to parts dept. They said they can't help only the salesman can get me a key, or charge me $10 for a key. So after 1/2 hour salesman makes a key. I know they would never do this at a Harley dealer. My 03 had the same key for everthing, do most of you you have the same key for ignition and bags?
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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87 Venture. top right of fairing there is a relay. Have a jumper I put in the socket to allow turn signals to work. If I leave it in the battery will go dead. Local dealer absolutely no help. Would like part number or even name of whatever relay plugs in there. Also, ignition switch sticking and headlamp sometimes will not work after starting. Would like to replace that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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My ignition was going bad, so we removed the cover and the tank, and thought it would be a simple matter of removing two bolts, taking the old one out and popping the new one in. Only the bolts were smooth round head bolts with no way to get at them. Not sure why they were not hex head or some other kind of normal bolt, but we had to drill the heads off to get them out. The rest of the replacement was a snap. Anyone know why these bolts would be smooth round heads? I was thinking for anti-theft reasons, but that makes no sense either. And how would a dealer get them out unless they did the same thing I did? Very puzzling. Only downside to a new ignition is now I have to use an ignition key, and my original key for the bag locks and helmet locks, which is no big deal, but still a bit of a pain. The upside is that my RSV won't be crapping out on me anymore! -
84 XVZ 1200, 38K MILES Bike is running rough and I thought it was because I got something wet from a good washing. This is what I've done based on what you good people have advised. Pulled and cleaned plugs, replaced plug wires, ensured spark off each coil and each wire down to the boots, pulled the ignition box-opened it and baked it in the oven @ 150 for 1.5 hours, opened the stop switch on the handle bars-hosed it w/ wd-40 and blew it out with the compresser. She fires up immediately and at idle, she sounds like she is purring. She appears to be firing on all 4 cylinders but depending on the amount of throttle that I give it, the carbs all pop, some more than others and it is certainly not ruuning like it should. If I hammer the throttle, she chokes out. Again, I thought I got something wet but maybe the washing and running like crap is just coincidence. Could the coils or the ignition box be screwed up even though it is running? I really dont think it is a fuel issue because I've run (my most recent ) 3/4 of a tank of gas through it and ran like a champ. I've got a bit over 3k miles on it this years since the snow melted. The fact that each carb pops when I accelerate leads me to believe it is something electrical but I'm certainly not a bike machanic. Looking for more trouble shooting ideas. Thanks everyone John-Michigan jkmorey@localnet.com -
I've been told that the best improvement that I could do for my '07 RSTD is to swap out my ignition. Wachya think? Any truth to this suggestion? If so, what would you recommend?
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Hello one of the guys I ride with has a 97 royal star, he has started having an intermittant ignition problem. we will be running down the road then bike dies. stop turn switch of then on hit start button off we go. there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to the distance or the heat. Anyone had this problem? got any ideas? thanks! -
Looking around for a new tach and that old question pops up again.. Single Fire Ignition or Dual Fire Ignition on our bikes? I promise to write it down this time.. I did a search and couldn't find it in previous posts.. (a lot of posts about tachs) Thanks in advance. -
Well, my ignition switch is showing signs that it's getting ready to fail. I wired a bypass tonight, don't want to get left stranded in the middle of nowhere this weekend, headed to Copper Harbor, Mi. I have been reading the tech section for ideas on how to go about fixing the switch. How many have tried disassembling and repairing the switch ? This thread details fixing the switch. What I'd like to know is if others have had success doing this repair?
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What type of ignition system on RSTD
Mr.G posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Hey gang, Just received my EZ-TACH for setting idle and I am wondering what type of ignition system the Royal Star has. Conventional with Distributor DIS - Distributorless ignition system COP - Coil on Plug Thanks in advance. -
Well folks, this morning mine finally gave me the firm signs that my ignition switch is on the way out. For a long time my trip odo would reset itself and I would have a flicker of the electronics when turning on my high beams; I had isolated that problem to a weakly connected and very corroded ground. BUT, in the last week or two I have noticed a flicker on my speedo when I turn the ignition ON (before starting) and didn't think much of it until this morning... I turned my key to the 'ON' position and then noticed that the display went completely out. When I went to turn the key back off to further investigate I found that it came back on when put a little pressure on the key to turn it from the "ON" position back to 'OFF'. So, now the experimentalist in me comes out and checks to see if I can duplicate the symptom/problem. Sure enough, when turning the ignition to the "ON" position, if I turn it all the way to the right it acts as if it is in the 'ACC' position and a little pressure counter-clockwise puts it back to functioning as if it is in the 'ON' position. Hmmm, so not the question is: 1) Disassemble switch, attempt cleaning/repair, reassemble and ride on? 2) Permanently install the by-pass I built and just let it go? 3) Dump 280+ at my local dealer for a new ignition switch? (haha- NO.) 4) Partshark and get a replacement switch for ~160 5) E-bay/pinwal get a replacement switch for 170 (don't believe me, go look for yourself - what a joke) 6) Of course there is always the "pretend like it isn't a problem until I am in the middle of BFN and my bike dies 'unexpectedly'". -- (haha -- this too is a big ol negatory) I think I will likely go with option #2 and a #1 planned in the near future and #4 as a back-up plan. I actually have a switch all wired up and ready to go where all I would need to do is snip the current wires and tie the bypass in. What I would like to come up with is an easy setup that would allow for my switch to be installed and ready to go allowing for a simple 'unbolt the tank and plug in the switch wires' solution, that way there is not the risk of someone flipping the switch and riding off with my bike without the key (I realize that is VERY unlikely to happen but still a possibility). So, I guess I'll need to get out the trusty old 'dingy' wiring diagrams (THANKS AGAIN!!!) and some thought. I guess I am venting more than anything here, so don't mind me and my mindless writing; although I wouldn't argue with suggestions -
I'm about to have my ignition switch replaced again (44K miles). The first time was around half that mileage. The first time Yamaha also paid for redoing the locks on the saddlebags, trunk & helmet locks. This time they'll fix the ignition, but, said they won't do the other part. This really annoys me. They wanted to know how this has happened twice to me, never to anyone else. They think I must carry a wad of keys. I don't. Only the bike key, not even on a key ring. I don't want to carry 2 keys &, yes, I know I can have 1 key cut on one side for the ignition & the other side for the saddlebags, etc. That is what I will most likely do, as it's the cheapest way to solve the problem for me. Regardless, I still think Yamaha should fix the problem at their expense under warranty. I guess I'm looking for advice. Thanks in advance for any insight. I only feel a little better after venting this.
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how do i replace my ignition switch on 1986 yamaha vr ? thanks Al
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I need to know how to properly diagnose a bad ignition coil. For a while I have had a vibration mainly under load and feel I loose power at the top end where everyone is bragging of all kinds of power. It feels like when I rev it up that its just not all there. I currently have Iridium plugs in there but am not impressed and am going back to regular NGKs. Ive thought about changing to after market coils and wires but dont want to change if it will do me no good. So how do I find out if I have a problem? -
Any way to tell if you have good spark or if your spark is weak in your ignition system:sick:
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how can i tell if i have weak ignition or good:detective:
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I am thinking i am not the only one to dislike the location of the ignition on my 96 rstd. Behind and below the seat. i feel like a contortionist. this is a real treat when everyone is ready to roll. and I have to dismount to find the key hole. Anyone know of a relocation kit or a fix to this.?
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hi all as some of you know i have a '99 rsv trike that we found out that was only firing on 3 cylinders. with much help from ponch, squid & a phone call to goose. last saturday squidly & i fix the #1 cylinder to fireing order. so now i'am a happy camper having all 4 coils sparking again. we changed out the ignition module and problem solved. so the orginal #1 coil is still good. took the trike out sunday for a 170 mile round trip ride. the power was right there and the gas milage was back were it should be for a trike. thanks again for all the help and advice. reguards don c.
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My bike is an 06' Rsv that was first purchased by the previous owner in Oct. 05. I have never had to have the bike on a tender the year and a half that I have owned it. Lately I noticed that sometimes when I went out to start it, The crank was a little weak, so I put a tender on it. I went out the other day, turned on the ignition, turned off the radio, everything seemed fine, pulled out choke, then pressed the starter. It was like I turned off the ignition, nothing, no lights, no radio, completely dead. I am thinking, I probably need to replace the battery anyway, seeing that is 5 years old. Is this the most likely culprit? What is the best battery to put in the bike? I hate electrical problems.
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Anyone have any experience with the XT 225? Particulary interested in any information on electrical issues and/or ignition switch problems. Thanks in advance
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Searching for a tach that will work with the 2ndGen and it's driving me nutz... I remember something about a wasted spark discussion a while back, and have also run into D.I.S. ignition (or distributorless ignition) discussions. I'm not sure what we have??... and what to look for?? I'm trying to find a 2 1/2" dial tach with a matching 2" engine temp gauge. I did run into a couple of gauge styles... some pretty pricy.... but until I know exactely what I need it's kinda wasted motion. Anyone know exactely what I should be looking for, and also comes in an antique/chrome look??
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2001 RSV with 55k miles. Went to start my bike and didn't wait for the 'clicking' fuel pump? to stop before I pressed the starter button. I quickly let off of the starter switch - the bike didn't have enough time to start but did briefly crank. I then set the ignition switch to off, then on, and no power at all; no fuel pump noise, no lights, no radio, nothing. Same thing after numerous attempts. What I have done: All fuses including the main checked and ok. Even replaced some including main. Battery terminals clean and wires secure. Battery checked and voltage is fine. Wires clean and secure to the starter relay. Replaced the ignition main switch with a new one because it was showing signs wear. Still no power when the ignition switch is set to on or acc. What else should I check?
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I've been searching for what's wrong with my Millenium. It's idling a little lumpity lump crappy. Idle slows down sometimes. It has only died out once while idling. Seems to run well down the road. Today, I did the following: Replaced the plugs (had 17k miles on them). #2 and #4 looked fine. #1 and #3 were a little darker, but not bad at all. Replaced the fuel filter (but the old filter still flowed fuel very well). Drained all carbs (very slight bit of water in #3 bowl). With the bowl drains open, I ran the pump to push new fuel through them and out the drain hose. Drained the tank and inspected fuel (looked fine). Checked the main and reserve petcock screens (both were clear). Tested the fuel pump (clicking along and shooting fuel, albeit, I don't know how well it should shoot fuel). This is what I find happening: Every time I turn on the key, the pump will run for about 6 seconds. I turn the ignition to "on", but don't try to start the engine. The pump runs for 6 seconds. I turn off the key for a second or so and turn it back to "on", the pump again runs for 6 seconds. It does this no matter how many times I cycle through this procedure, although never trying to start the bike. I have never before noticed the pump running every time I turn on the ignition. Usually, when the bike has been sitting for a few days, of course the pump will pump up several clicks when I turn on the ignition. But normally, if the bike has been ridden recently, the pump would only click a time or two and it was all it needed. I don't believe that I have a stuck float as I don't distinguish any gas in the oil. I haven't had the carbs off yet. Probably gonna go there next. Has 54k on the bike now. But I'm still wondering if the pump is working properly. -
Got a new to me 06 venture with 29K miles for 9K$...very pretty and have been enjoying riding around this week..the only glitch so far is that sometimes the audio controls freeze up and I can't do anything with it...turning the ignition off and back on sometimes helps, most of the time not...then, for no apparent reason, it works normally again....any ideas?...thanks to all, Mick....previous bike was a 91 wing....
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Thanks for the help getting my VR running again. It was my ignition, took it apart & the contact plate was bent. I straightened it & put back in it RUNS:fatsmiley: thanks Al
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