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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
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I know it's been some time since I've posted, but the ole girl has been running well for several years now...until now. I just returned from a long motorcycle road trip (5k mi) and knew she needed a sync, which I did. No biggy. The real problem is that she's developed an intermittent misfire at idle. It's not bad, the idle just sounds uneven, and with the timing light you can see the spark skip every couple seconds when idling...and all 4 cylinders have the miss. If it was just 1 cylinder, that might be easier to diagnose. With all 4 cylinders sporadically missing, I'm at a loss. The bike has plenty of power, and runs like it should...except at idle. No backfires, no trouble starting, typical gas mileage. Has anyone ever noticed an intermittent miss like this, and might anyone have any guess as to the cause? Thank you for any suggestions you might have! -
Hey guys, New to the forum. Like the title says I'm having some issues with my 85 VR xvz12. My VR had run great for the last 2 years I've owned it, just had to fill her up, change the oil and go. But my son and I went for a short drive around central Washington and got caught in a freak rainstorm. We stopped and got under some shelter and afterwards the bike just wouldn't start. After about 2 hours of fiddling around with her, she just started up but ran like crap. The Tachometer was dead "at Zero", and she ran like she was on two cylinders. Got her home and blew her off with a leaf blower and wiped her dry. The following weekend, she was still running sick. So I pulled the battery and checked both coils (primary and secondary check), pickups, spark plugs, spark plug cables, emergency cut off switch, pickup coil, stand switch and the voltages were in the ballpark from my service manual. I then read a post from DonB about testing from the TCI connectors to see if there is a short in a wire, I followed his guide and didn't find any reason to think I had a short. So the old girl is still reading zero on the Tach, failing the fire on two cylinders, and starting is hit or miss. I'm at my wit's end really, I figure at this point it's the TCI. It sitting in its original horrible location, and I don't really know how or why I would want to take it out if I'm thinking about ordering a new SPARKER TCIP4 from IgniTech. Is there anything that I'm missing or have not thought of. I have scanned this forum pretty hard. PS: with the massive amount of information on this forum I'm gonna have to pony up the 12 bucks -
looking at the wiring diagram it looks like each plug is fired interdependently. Is there still a wasted spark firing on the exhaust stroke or can I time valve events off of the ignition signal? I am wanting to install fuel injection and i will need a signal that can be tied directly to a cam event if I want to use sequential injection instead of batch injection.
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while riding yesterday (5/16/15) the bike cutout a a stop sign. When restarting, it acted funny - electrically - dash went dead, then came back and started ok. No further problems yesterday. This morning, turned ignition key, and when I hit the starter button, all went dead. No lights, no nothing. Stayed dead. Battery reads 12.5+v at battery, and at 30A fuse (L rear under cover). Lifted the tank, and got 12.5+v on main red wire at connector (pinkish one) but nothing on the brown wire next to it. Getting under keyswitch looks to be daunting (so many covers...) but I'm suspecting that is the culprit, since nothing is live beyond it. I've read where the keyswitch has been a problem on some models. Is this one? I'm going to call the dealer in the morning, but he doesn't have a great service reputation.... Any thoughts form you folks?? Thanks,
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It never ends, this shinola. Wanted to do a 50-miler today to start working up to a road trek, weather cooperating, up in the 50s. Left the house, went two miles to a gas station. As I was coasting up to the pump she just unceremoniously up and quit. Like I hit the kill switch. After the fork rebuild, triple tree grease job, clutch slave cylinder replace and assorted small jobs it also did this after it warmed up the first time. Just sitting in the driveway idling, then it just died. Ran the battery down trying to start it, so put the charger on and it fired off again after a couple minutes. Figured the battery had gotten down in the cold and down time since before Christmas and that it didn't leave enough juice for ignition. Then today it happened again. I have started my flyaway kit and had a socket set and a combo screwdriver in the trunk, so removed the top cover to look at the fuses and connections again. I know I have a broken spade on the ignition fuse, but it also controls the starter, which spins just fine. Tried wiggling wires and anything I could reach while cranking, no luck. Decided maybe it was a charging issue so I unplugged the headlight, put everything together again and suited up, just in case, hoping that maybe there would be enough volts without the headlight to get back home. She fired up, so I hopped on and prayed that the 3 lights between me and home would be green. They were, and I made it a mile before she quit again. Pushed it to a school parking lot, and this time I pulled the tail light bulbs. JUST TO GET HOME Y'ALL!! Anyway, she fired back up and I made it within 3 houses of home. Do-able. I've looked at everything including: the emergency cutoff switch, the side stand switch and relay, the wiring to the fuse block and TCI (Ignitech), I have a Radioshack digital meter but I'm beginning to suspect its voracity. Rode around the block for about 10 minutes with it hooked to the battery. I get 13.5 volts idling, then it drops to around 13.1 around 3000 rpm. Dash gauge shows the drop, too. I checked the resistance on the pickup coils and got 136, 272,272, and 267 ohms respectively, book says should be 110± 10%. So those are way off. Think I'll cruise by Radio Shack and see if they can check the accuracy of my meter... So there you have it, sorry for the long post. I've looked for corrosion and loose or broken wires. Battery is right at a year old and freshly serviced with acid. Still suspecting it's a charging problem the way the voltmeter is acting. I haven't check the voltage regulator yet but that's my next step. Thanks for your help! Richard
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I have a 2008 RSV, I pulled up to a stop light one day when the light turned green I let out the clutch and the bike stalled out. When I looked down I had no power, I checked the main fuse and battery both were good. My neighbor looked on his phone while I was checking these, he said the ignition switch was notorious for going bad. I pulled the ignition switch cleaned it up, I put it back together and it worked fine. I rode for a week with no further problems, then getting ready to leave for work the same thing happened. I used a volt meter and checked the ignition switch sometimes it would make connection sometimes not, when I got the bike home I looked at the ignition switch again. I could get power and even got it to start a few times however I could never get the neutral light to come on. I put a universal switch on and get power to everything except I still do not get a neutral light and it will not turn over. I have checked the clutch switch, kick stand switch, neutral switch, automatic kill switch, manual kill switch, and the starter button. I suspect it is the ignition cut off relay or the ignitor, I have had no luck locating the ignition cut off relay and not sure if there is any way to test it if I did find it. Has anyone experiences this problem? I have a random short in the radio, not sure if it is in the remote head or the main radio. I did find it shorting out so I disconnected the radio, after looking at a wiring diagram I noticed what looked like a wire going into the radio so I pulled the fuse and reconnected the radio. This does not seem to effect anything I have looked at.
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There's been several times members here have by passed their ignition switch due to either switch failures or as a preventive to ward off failures. Today I decided to also do that to my bike and at the same time do a write up on it per a recent posting on this topic. For those who wonder why this is needed or desired the ignition switch has the majority of the power going thru one wire to feed lights and ignition requirements. Needless to say the switches contacts take a beating over time caused by overheating & normal wear & tear. The accessory part of the switch seems to never have this type of failure so this does lend credence to overloading on the one line being feed. By adding in a common 30 amp auto relay to that part of the circuit we can take the majority of the power off the switch before it gets there and route it directly to the line the switch powers, thus saving the switch. You'll need a couple of short 14 gauge wires, push on terminals, shrink wrap, and a 30 amp auto relay to do the job plus a soldering gun and wire stripper. To start you need to remove the drivers seat and gas tank. The gas tank is held on with a single bolt on the end by the seat plus two allen head bolts on the sides up front. Remove the cover by the ignition/gas cap. Disconnect the overflow vent hose and the fuel sender wires. The tank can be lifted off and set down out of the way now. Disconnect the (-) negative cable from the battery as you'll have one wire live otherwise. On top of the engine locate the wire harness coming from the ignition switch. There will be two red plug connectors going through a holder. Pull those out. The one you'll be working on will be the 2 wire one with a pink plug on one end disconnect that plug. Picture 1 shows it well. The next step is to splice a wire to the red wire with 14 gauge leaving it long enough to work with. Refer to picture 2 Cut the brown /blue wire leaving enough at the plug side to work with. Add a short length to both ends of the cut wire. Using a butt connector, soldered, and covered with shrink tubing will give a solid connection as well as protection . Add a female spade terminal to both of those ends. Do the same for the red wire spliced earlier too. Cover with shrink tubing after soldering them. Make a ground wire with a eyelet end on one end and a female terminal on the other. See picture 3. I used the closest bolt holding the radiator fill cap in place to ground the eyelet. The opposite end will attach to the relay. Connect the wires to the relay follows: spliced Red wire fastens to #30 terminal of the relay the brown /blue wire from the switch attaches to #86 terminal on the relay the brown /blue wire going to the harness connects to#87 terminal on the relay the gounding wire attaches to the #85 terminal on the relay. Wrap the wires up with tape and tuck them back into the harness holder. Pics 4 & 5 show the completed job with the relay as tucked in on top of the engine. Note: While this mod will prolong the life of the switch a long time there's always the posibilty that the switch can still fail through normal wear. If it does you can simply connect together the red wire and the brown/blue wire on the harness side to get you home. Some folks take this a step further and add a toggle switch between the two wires. I don't think it's neccassary on newer bikes but if you're experincing any ignition troubles now then I would certainly see the advatage of adding a toggle switch where you can get to it without having to remove the tank.
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Going to try this again. Anybody have an old , bad, removed, ignition coil from a 2nd gen laying around ?? If you replaced a coil, could you pull the plug wire out of the " old " ignition coil, and take a photo, or let me know, if the plug wire can be " Re-Installed " after you pull out the old one ?? ie: is there a pointed SCREW inside the hole the same as on the 1st Gen Ignition coils ??? I'm trying to figure out if I can replace the plug wire on these coils, but do not want to destroy a good one in the process. Any help here, appreciated, thanks.
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A couple months ago, I was reading some posting, concerning Ignition Coils ! Question: ? Sombody made mention that on his 2nd Gen, ( don't remember what year ) he had changed the Ignition Coils to some kind of Plug Over type Coil. ?? I assume he used coils from some other type of bike. Does anybody, know, or remember which member this was who made this posting ?? I have this type of Ignition Coil set up on my Busa, and am very interested is makeing this modification to my 08 RSTD if this is possible. Anybody remember this information, ???? I'm thinking that this mod might help reduce " Ignition Noise" in the AM radio system ?? ( well, maby it will ) :detective:
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I went to the Hot Springs AR rally this past weekend. Yesterday morning getting ready to come back home from Hot Springs I went to start my 07 RSV and it just clicked when I hit the start button. I noticed when I hit the start button all the lights and the radio shut off. The radio did not come back on. I turned the key off and back on and it started fine, but had to turn the radio back on and all of my radio preset channels were gone. It did this one more time on the way home at one of the stops. I am thinking from the threads I read this morning it is in the ignition switch or could be the ignition wiring. I will not be able to check out the wiring till Friday. Need to check my warranty and find out when it expires since it is an 07 model and I bought it used.
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I just bought a '99 RSV, and the original owner had replaced the ignition switch, leaving me with a different key for the rest of the locks. My question is, since they are double-sided keys, if two locksets can be cut on the same key? I know there are more pins/tumblers in these locks, but on older Ford vehicles you could cut 2 different vehicle ignition keys on one key, one on one side, one on the other, it would require a blank key to start out with. Just an inquiring mind thing.
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After reinstalling the forks and top triple tree clamp I can't find the harness end of the ignition plug. It's red and should stand out like Santa Claus at the beach but I've spent over an hour poking around in there and could not find it. Where should I look for the harness end?
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when I push the start button down the lights draw down and it blows the ignition fuse . The main wire going to ignition switch on side of bike gets very hot when key in on position. Any ideas ? I have replace the starter relay and the starter cut out relay Please help... -
I have a 1st Generation Venture Royal. Is there a code number to use to get a replacement ignition key made and where can I find it. Thanks, racerod129
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Before my long trip i have accumulated some spare parts to take with me. I am taking TCI, rectifier/regulator and ignition coil (i am taking just 1 of the 4 spares that i have). Is there a way to test the regulator and ignition coil without putting it on the bike? I have already cheched the TCI on the bike. (BTW I am not bike electrical literate.) -
Before my long trip i have accumulated some spare parts to take with me. I am taking TCI, rectifier/regulator and ignition coil (I am taking just 1 spare of the 4 that i have). Is there a way to test the regulator and ignition coil without putting it on the bike? I have already cheched the TCI on the bike. (BTW I am not bike electrical literate.)
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I experienced electrical gremlins last fall on my 1990 Royale. Strange behaviors. Too intermittent to diagnose specifically, but there seemed to be some relationship to the ignition switch and/or the "IGNITION" fused circuit. I know that ignition switch problems are not very frequent on First Generation Ventures, unlike the Second Gens, never the less I felt I may be having an issue with mine. So to cure possible problems with IGNITION fuse and the ignition switch, I replaced the OEM fuse block with a new fuse block that accepts ATC fuses and I added an "ACCESSORIES" auxiliary block. This auxiliary accessories fuse block is only energized when ignition switch is at ACC or ON. To prevent excessive current draw through the ignition switch, I fed the auxiliary accessories block via a 30Amp relay and 10GAuge wire. When the OEM ACC circuit is energized by the ignition switch, the relay is energized, closing the circuit from the battery to the positive lug post on the auxiliary accessories fuse block. To avoid grounding issues for added accessories, I created a common grounding terminal strip. This terminal strip is connected to the negative post of the battery with a short length of 10GA wire. The terminals on the terminal strip are electrically connected to each other with a heavy brass buss. The fuse blocks and terminal strip are mounted to the unvented maintenance free battery with double face foam "Gorilla" tape. The battery top presented a smooth surface for mounting via tape. This method probably wouldn't work for conventional batteries. I relocated the MAIN fuse to just in front of the Positive battery post. I relocated the CLASS fuse holder to under the other OEM fuse block that contains the AUDIO, BACKUP,etc. fuses for now, but I intend to utilize the remaining fuse position on the new "main fuse block" for the CLASS. Thank you, Earl for the fuse block.
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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87 Venture. top right of fairing there is a relay. Have a jumper I put in the socket to allow turn signals to work. If I leave it in the battery will go dead. Local dealer absolutely no help. Would like part number or even name of whatever relay plugs in there. Also, ignition switch sticking and headlamp sometimes will not work after starting. Would like to replace that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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I am about to install a radio/amp on my '06 RSTD. I know I can wire the amp directly to the battery leads however i would prefer to have the radio controlled by the ignition switch. I'm looking for how to instructions. Any help would be much appreciated. -
My ignition was going bad, so we removed the cover and the tank, and thought it would be a simple matter of removing two bolts, taking the old one out and popping the new one in. Only the bolts were smooth round head bolts with no way to get at them. Not sure why they were not hex head or some other kind of normal bolt, but we had to drill the heads off to get them out. The rest of the replacement was a snap. Anyone know why these bolts would be smooth round heads? I was thinking for anti-theft reasons, but that makes no sense either. And how would a dealer get them out unless they did the same thing I did? Very puzzling. Only downside to a new ignition is now I have to use an ignition key, and my original key for the bag locks and helmet locks, which is no big deal, but still a bit of a pain. The upside is that my RSV won't be crapping out on me anymore! -
I've been told that the best improvement that I could do for my '07 RSTD is to swap out my ignition. Wachya think? Any truth to this suggestion? If so, what would you recommend?
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Hello one of the guys I ride with has a 97 royal star, he has started having an intermittant ignition problem. we will be running down the road then bike dies. stop turn switch of then on hit start button off we go. there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to the distance or the heat. Anyone had this problem? got any ideas? thanks! -
Looking around for a new tach and that old question pops up again.. Single Fire Ignition or Dual Fire Ignition on our bikes? I promise to write it down this time.. I did a search and couldn't find it in previous posts.. (a lot of posts about tachs) Thanks in advance. -
Well, my ignition switch is showing signs that it's getting ready to fail. I wired a bypass tonight, don't want to get left stranded in the middle of nowhere this weekend, headed to Copper Harbor, Mi. I have been reading the tech section for ideas on how to go about fixing the switch. How many have tried disassembling and repairing the switch ? This thread details fixing the switch. What I'd like to know is if others have had success doing this repair?
