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VR Assistance

  1. Bikes coming along, seafoam and idle adjustment has is idleing with the choke off now. Bled all the hydraulics, rode it around the parking lot across from me, Felt good, not tippy and the weight didn't bother me at all. I have to get tires and 2 diaphragms for the wells on the bars. Its backfiring a little at idle, but seems to run good. Battery tender hooked up. What tires of these 3? Perrelli, Maxxis or Kenda? I felt no wobble and think I could ride it around a little to help get the carbs clean etc. But . the back tire has cracks inbetween every groove, on the outside where it meets the side wll sort of. There both Metzs and old so they gotta go.Thanks again guys and gals, everything Ive done so far I have gotten from you.
  2. Finally got the carbtune pro to sync the carbs but how important is it to check the idle speed first. If it,s important, can someone please let me know where to get a tach to check the idle. Thanks.
  3. Hello fellow Venture's; My 2000 Venture will start easly with full choke, and while running on full choke when I twist gas, it wants to stall out. I can sometimes get an idle with chock off, but again when I try and give it gas it chokes out. Any suggestions.... Thanks for all your help.
  4. Ok I had a brain fart, Where is the idle screw on an 89 royal?.....Duh!
  5. can anyone tell me, at what R.P.M., the idle circuit drops off and the main carb circuit takes over? my problem is, if i can't get my engine to idle, then 4 gallons of pure sea foam, isn't going to clean the idle jets, and other idle circuit components. just jt
  6. are these jets supposed to screw all the way out of the carbs? mine will turn just a hair past 2 complete revolutions, from a "soft seat", and that is ALL. still trying to make this damn thing IDLE!!! anyone who can help, please JUMP in! just jt:bang head:
  7. Greetings... This started happening about 1 month ago. It has gotten progressively worse - to this point: Facts: #1 & #2 carbs were out of sync because I played with the Sync screw thinking it was the idle speed screw. Finally Synced them, and played with the idle speed screw. A week Ago - It WOULD Idle at 1000 rpm when warm. It hasn't been run since last friday - It's now Wednesday. Over the summer - The cotten-wood trees have deposited a hideous amount of Fuzz that has been a real pain. It gets everywhere... It rained 2 days ago, and the bike was outside, uncovered. - Today was a rather nice day - I went out to go for a ride this morning, and basicly spent the entire day attempting to actualy get the bike (89 VR) running... Symptoms: It will now - NOT idle at anything less than 1500 rpm. At Idle (like at a light) there is an audible 'click' Where the tach will drop to 0 rpm, the bike will chug slower and slower - then eventualy, (if the throttle isn't blipped) Die... When it is running - It runs well! There is NO problem at any speed above Idle. The Tach will NOT register anything less than about 1500rpm. In other words - I have to keep the idle set a bit high, because it will just die - the tach just drops to 0 if I set it to less than that. What can cause this? Today I tore off the entire fairing, and checked all the wiring, all vacume tubes, spark plugs, etc... I synced the carbs - and finally got it running. It ran well - a lot more pep than it was doing a week ago - but every time I came to a light - it would idle at 1500, then - an audible click - and it would suddenly drop to 0 on the tach and a few seconds later - it would sputter out and die. It starts, as long as I REV it when it catches... But it won't idle correctly. I can play with the idle screw all I want - but If I adjust it down to normal idle - all the above is guarenteed to happen. So what can cause this?
  8. Where is the "Idle Adjustment Screw" on a 86 VR located. If somebody has a good picture of where it is located, I would appreciate the opportunity to look at it. I have a Yamaha Service Manual; however, I think the author needs to take the pictures again. Most of the pictures in my manual are cloudy and dark. Really hard to tell anything using the pictures. Anyway from what I have read on this website, the Idle Adjustment Screw is on the "left side of the bike as you are sitting on it. It is plastic and does not have a slot or is not designed to use a screwdriver. It must be turned by hand." Is this correct? Does the Idle Screw face outward, towards the front or back of the bike, up, or down? Any help or instructions as to the location would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Allen Dallas, Texas
  9. I just finished having my master cylinders rebuilt, new clutch discs installed, new brake pads, new valve cover gaskets, and the carburators inspected on my 86 VR. Also, I had the carburators synchronized. At cruising speed, the bike seems to run just fine. However, the bike does not idle down properly when stopped. As I am down-shifting, you can tell the bike is not idling down as it should. When I am in first gear and stopped, it wants to idle at approximately 3500 rpms. "Way to fast". I think it is supposed to idle between 950 and 1050 rpms. The guy that performed the repairs indicated he checked the throttle cable adjustment, thinking that might be the problem. However, it was fine. Now, after hauling the bike back to Dallas (approximately 120 miles) and reviewing the VentureRider website, I now see the Yamaha Service Manual is incorrect when describing the procedure for "carburetor synchronization" based on the correct use of different adjustment screws. If the carburetor synchronization was performed as indicated in the Yamaha Service Manual, would this create the excessive idling problem I am experiencing? Also, those living in the Dallas area, do you know of any good Motorcycle Shops (independents, etc....) that would perform another carbuertor synchronization if this was the problem. Yamaha Shops that I have spoken with in the past will not work on my bike due to its age. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you, Allen S. Dallas, Texas
  10. Bought CarbTune & Tachometer. Right now all set up, engine warmed up enough so fan running on radiator. Found idle at 1550. No problem do initial syncing of carbs - just to find right adj. screws. My problem is I cannot get bike to idel at 1100 - it stalls. If reving, smooths out then stalls. Minimum is 1150, still pins on carb tube move so violently hard to adjust. Why won't this bike idle at 1000. WOn't even run at 900 at book says. New fuel filter, new iridium plugs, etc. Please advise.
  11. Just bought an 86 Royale was told carbs were rebuilt ha took them off they were not so I took them apart and cleaned them put it all back with no extra parts I get it to idle at 1000 rpms but im getting popping and back fireing please help.
  12. I posted about how my bike blew over in a T-storm last Thursday. It sat for a couple hours completely horizontal. I picked it up and checked it over for a few minutes before starting it up. It started quickly and ran fine, but the idle has been low ever since. I had it idling in the 900-1000 rpm range before, and it probably dropped 3-400 rpm, such that it tends to die before fully warm. It's hard to find an effective choke setting that keeps the bike on a fast idle. Today I increased the idle speed thumbscrew setting to get the idle back where it belongs, but I had to screw it in, oh, maybe one full turn. That isn't right. What could cause this? I could understand if it idled slowly right at first until the fluids stabilized in their normal places, but not for several days! Ideas? Jeremy
  13. I understand that the idle speed should be set to 1000 RPM. Other than not stalling, is there a reason for this? Suggestions on an inexpensive tachometer to but to set this the RPM, been doing it by ear Thanks
  14. I installed the Buddy Rich Bluetooth cable and began hearing an engine tick at idle. Not particularly noticeable on speakers but very annoying in headset . Just to check, removed cable, started engine ticking is gone. Replaced cable, ticking is back. Figured shielding is at fault, undid tape to foil shilding, checked that it connects to wire shield, added foil retaped - still ticking. At speed not noticeable because of general background noise but at idle it's like Chinese water torture - tick, tick, tick. Any solutions or suggestions out there? :puzzled:I can't be lucky enough to be the "only one". Help please before I loose whatever little sanity remains!!
  15. Hi, My bike been running perfect for a long time until #4 cyl suddenly became a bit rough. A check of the exhaust temps confirmed the weak cylinder (not hot compared to other cyls). Problem seems to be from the idle mixture circuit, which was not responding to any adjustment. Avoiding to pull down the carbs, I sprayed carb cleaner on both the pilot jet and idle mixture orifice hoping to get lucky. It improved and the cylinder started firing again. Just to be sure, I used colortune and confirmed the correct mixture was there. Unfortunately that was good for about 15 miles only and the problem came back . Note that the basics checked out : compression, ignition, fuel, vac leaks. Would appreciate any input on this. Thanks.
  16. Are there any symptoms associated with the head bolt torque not being proper? Just wondering since I have a 07 and this past Saturday I had a heck of a time starting the bike. I had to use full choke ( I have never had to use any chock before) to even get the bike to start and then you could not turn the chock off or the bike would die. I played with the idle screw a bunch just to get the bike to run with the chock off. This lasted for about 15 minutes then the bike seamed to return to normal. Of course I had to re-adjust the idle afterwards back to 1000 RPM. I took the bike around the block about 20 times just to check it out and it ran fine. I then took it out on the highway for a 70 mile trip and it ran fine. I have not had any more problems like this since. What the heck happened?
  17. So last week I washed the bike a work. Fired it up and rode block down the street to fill up the tank. As I pulled up to the pump the idle got rough, dropped to about 600 and eventually died. i ended up pushing it to one of my employers other building. After 4 hours of trying to get it to run I gave up and left it for the night. Occasionally I would get it to fire, but it would never idle right nor would it idle over 300RPM. Next day, after work it fired up and idled. I could even twist the throttle and rev the engine. Shut it down, change the plugs. After changing the plugs, it idled smooth. The throttle was crisp. I went ahead and rode it the 70 miles home. It ran great! I did notice at idle it smelled rich though. Fast forward to today. I wander out to the shop to take the scoot for a ride. Hit the starter. It cranks for a few seconds then fires. idle was REALLY low. Let it idle for a couple of minutes and it dies. Now it won't start again. Anybody got any suggestions where to start? Thanks, Ed
  18. Help!,:starz: I am trying to adjust my idle mixture settings on my carbs on my 99 blvd. 4 piper and I can"t get the brass looking caps off?? What is the best method, I'm a little scared to drill em out and so far I'm having no luck. Also are the pilot screws flat head or phillips? I am doing this to try to eliminate some backfire on decel . Thanks
  19. I am ready to surrender and take the scoot to the dealer. I have checked air filter, new plugs, checked for exhaust leaks, adjusted idle mixture screws, can of seafoam with High octane gas, thought I had fixed the problem, rode to daytona, and its' back?? The bottom left pipe ( I have a 99 Blvd. 4 piper) is still popping at decel and idle. It absolutely drives me out of my mind. THIS IS ONLY ON 1 FRICKIN PIPE !!!!!!!!!!!, the bike has always run great until about 2 or so weeks ago. I really doubt that this is a carb sync issue, and the bike runs great when cruising. Any more last minute suggestions before I break out the wallet. Also, does any one know where I can download a repair manual for a 99 standard? :confused07:
  20. I have a 1983 XS650 that will start fine using the enricher however the enricher does not seem to increase RPM the way it should, anyway the only way to keep the engine running until the motor is hot is to increase the idle speed by turning in the idle stop screw about 1 to 1.5 turns, eventually when you blip the throttle the motor will start to free wind on its own, when this happens you can turn the idle stop screw back out the 1 to 1.5 turns and the engine will idle fine and the bike will operate fine until you go to restart it again when it has gotten cold. The carbs were not on the bike when I got it ( they were apart in a box ) The carbs have been rebuilt, the diaphragms are all good an the intake adapters are new, I have had my Carbtune on it and all checks out fine, the mixture screws are set at 13/4 out from seat + or - a little, the air boxes are sealed, I can't think of anything else except. HELP PLEASE .
  21. So now that everything is back together, well almost, I have a nagging problem. Had the motor out for second gear, cleaned the carbs but did not break them down, just took out the diaphrams, used carb cleaner all over and through out, installed new diaphrams and all seemed to be good. Balanced the carbs last week and now I can't get the idle below 1500. All carbs are balanced but I have a problem with #1. When I take the plug off of the vaccum port there is very little change in the engine. Not so with the others. When I took off #3 the engine almost died, #4 and #2 there is some change as would be expected but not enough to worry if the engine will die. I replaced the lower throttle cables but they are all slack, the idle speed screw is backed right out, I checked the chokes and they are all pushed in. Sometimes though, the idle will come right down and momentarily behave as it should, but mostly not and I cannot controll it. I need more ideas,,,,,,,
  22. Hi, this is my first attemp at this so please bear with me? My wife, Claudia Ann and i have 2 of the 1st Gen XVZs, a 1984 and a 1990. I have purchased shop manuals for each but find nothing in the manuals about either setting the idle mixture screws or how to find them on the carbs. I've read other threads that talk about the proper setting being 2 - 2 1/4 turns CCW from very carefully closed position. That's great, but i've looked at the carbs on both bikes several times and have not found what would even seem to me to be 'idle mixture screws'. I have even purchased parts manuals for both bikes and the exploded parts diagrams of the carbs and accompanying parts list does not list 'idle mixture screws' anywhere so i cannot tell even looking at these diagrams where they might be. Does anyone know what Yamaha calls these screws if it is something different than 'idle mixture screws'? It might be less confusing for those of us that new to this sort of thing if in the threads everyone would use Yamaha's term/names for parts and what is being discussed. How about a few pics to show where they are located? Anyway, thanks in advance for any help offered! fmandcac
  23. If I was to start with a baseline adj on the carbs, what would it be. I know that the Idle air screws are 2.25 out, but what about the screws in between the carbs?
  24. The 87 idles good till it gets up to operating temp. Then in traffic the idle climbs to 2000, 2500, even up to 3 grand if I'm in traffic long! Any ideas?
  25. The 87 idles at about 1000 after warm up, but the more I drive it the higher the idle gets! Once it gets to nice operating temp the idle goes up to about 2500 and even gets to 3 grand. Any ideas?
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