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Showing results for tags 'idle'.
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I have a 1990 VR that has been sitting for eight years. After putting a new battery in, it started right up, but didn't idle. I drained the gas tank (the fuel in it was amber) and refilled with BP Premium spiked with 4 oz. Sea Foam. I've cleaned the carbs and checked the slides and diaphragms, and adjusted and cleaned til I'm blue in the face. The bike will idle and has decent throttle response until it gets hot. When it gets into mid temperature gauge territory, the idle begins to climb until it is at 4.5K and I can't stand it any more, where upon I shut it down. This scenario happens whether sitting in the garage on the center stand or while riding. Sooner or late the idle will climb to the 3-4.5K range and make stop lights rather embarrassing and shifting very ugly. I've been running Sea Foam through and have adjusted the pilot screws to 2.5-3 turns out (notably, turning the pilot screws in all the way or out all the way has NO effect with idle). I have synchronized the carbs (using mercury sticks) and they are very nearly perfect and never seem to change synchronization. I have tested the pressure sensor (vacuum sensor, boost sensor) and find voltages well within spec (2.18 when at atmosphere, .65 volts at .90kpa on a mityvac vacuum pump). Pulling vacuum on the pressure sensor causes an increase in rpm...sometimes. Idle must be over 1000 rpm for pressure sensor vacuum to effect it, apparently. I removed the pressure sensor and it's harness and connectors and cleaned them. I removed the TCI connectors and cleaned them. Some of the spade connectors were corroded, but not bad. Still, though an increase in vacuum always caused a voltage drop, this voltage drop did not always/usually result in an rpm climb ON A COLD TO WARM engine. I checked for vacuum leaks at all the usual suspects; the pressure sensor vacuum hose and restricter = AOK, the sync plugs = AOK, the carb to head boots = not AOK. Number 3 and 4 seemed to be leaking at the carb bases. I checked for leaks with carb cleaner spray. Regarding the leaks at #3 and #4 carb boots: I removed the clamps and ground off the tabs that seemingly prevent the clamps from tightening too tight (?), and reinstalled the clamps on the boots and re-tightened. Spraying with carb cleaner around the newly tightened boots did not result in idle change, IE, no leaks. Curiously (and significantly ?), pulling the sync plugs off the idling bike, one at a time, has little effect on the idle, EXCEPT for #2. Opening the sync port on that cylinder, slows the idle significantly. I have checked the float bowl fuel level and found all to be at 19mm below the reference line. I have monitored the fuel level on the running bike and it has remained very stable at this level. (I have rigged four fuel level gauging tubes attached to the carbs for testing). I realize that the fuel level is lower than spec, but that also indicates that an overfull fuel chamber is not causing the hot high idle, doesn't it? Or, could it be that the hot engine is running leaner and leaner and perhaps the lean condition is causing the high idle? I changed the spark plugs (NGK DPR8EA-9). The old plugs (NGK DPR8EA-9) looked new, including the rather white porcelain. Perhaps running a bit lean? (However, during the course of testing and fixing, I ran through a tank full of premium and got just 25 mpg. Granted there was a lot of stationary running, testing, full throttle "testing", etc. The mechanical parts of the throttle system are up to snuff: cables free and lubed, idle stop screw allowing for fully slow idle, carb butterflies all equally closed, and though I had a slide hanging initially, all slides/diaphragms are AOK. As the bike sat there idling nicely away at about 1000 rpm, I was beginning to feel like I had fixed this vexing problem of high hot idle, but NO!, soon the rpm began to climb; first quickly to 3000, but then soon was at 4500 and I couldn't take it anymore. About 10-15 minutes has elapsed. I pulled the pressure sensor vacuum line from #2 and immediately the rpm dropped to about 1500 rpm. I reattached the vacuum hose and it zoomed to 4500 again. I shut the bike down and had a beer. I have been chasing this for days and am discouraged. I am seeking some new insight from someone out there. I have reviewed all pertinent threads, especially the one from warthogcrewchief this year, where he had a similar problem, but his solution doesn't seem to fit my problem.
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what is typically the problem when the idle increases? I am looking at purchasing a 1083. The current owner indicates that is has something with the set screws slipping, but then says he isn't familiar with it. Any advise is much appreciated! -
Well, I thought I had this #3 & 4 rich idle issue figured out. I found a bad float needle @ #3. Replaced #3 & 4 needles. Set all floats again...to be sure. This did not fix the issues w/#3 or #4 posted elsewhere. ALSO to be sure my "choke" plungers were absolutely sealing, I used double springs. They were checked under mag glass. ANd I made sure the choke body was good at the seat. No change. Could it be the coasting enricher? And how does is work? And if it's bad ...what are the possible signs? Could this be my cause? Carbs are not foreign to me. But this is a pain....Any further idea or answer are appreciated. -
My bike fires up every time (rarely any clutch) and idles right away at 1,000 RPM, when cold. As it warms up the idle will slowly go up to 1,500 where it will then idle there. It is obviously too fast and downshifting doesn't seem to slow the bike down enough. My question is will a carb tune clear this issue up or am I looking at a bigger problem? If I recall I set the idle before doing the tune, so should I set it when the bike is fully warmed up, then do the tune and then set the idle again? Thanks for any input. -
After synchronizing the carb’s within 10 mmHg (each column) using the Carbtune Pro (at an idle between 1,000 – 1,100 RPM) on a 2006 RSTD the engine idle then randomly fluctuates between 730 and 1750 RPM’s. Obviously, when this change in idle speed occurs the previous adjustment (in vacuum) to match all columns exceeds 10mmHg. You can adjust the idle adjust screw to change the engine idle speed but this adjustment does nothing to stop the idle speed from randomly changing. What could be causing this to occur? Thanks 2 Flights -
Idle speed adjustment – RPM’s (2006 RSTD) I am seeking guidance on the correct procedure to check/adjust engine idle speed before doing a carburetor synchronization on my “06” RSTD. What specific equipment is needed (timing light with RPM feature, etc.) to properly set the idle speed? I have downloaded the file (Free bird) from this site (Tech Library) for doing this carburetor synchronization. Specific instructions are appreciated. There is nothing like avoiding the pitfalls of life in motorcycle care and maintenance with sharing the wisdom of others who have been there and successfully done that. Thanks 2Flights
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The '91's ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!! Spent yesterday re-syncing the carbs, and it's running awesome. As some of you may remember the '91 had an oil leak that was driving me bonkers, both trying to locate and then repair. I had Gone14s re-ring the shift sensor and that seemed to take care of the problem. At the time we were using Herb's cut-away middle gear cover... which will be coming back to you Herb... Kurt put the OEM cover back on the bike aand I brought her home. While syncing the carbs it started to leak again. So 2+2=4.. OK so it's the OEM MG cover... SO.. about a week ago I re-gasketed the MGC and put some RTV along the bottom edge. Buttoned it back up. Fired it up and it didn't see any drips but wow did it smoke. Caugh..Caugh.... Yesterday I said the he11 with it and decided to let it smoke and re-sync the carbs. I did see a couple of drips under the bike when I started, but plowed ahead. Syncing.... After the first sync the bike had a major problem with the idle setting, and ran like cr@p. SO I backed off all the sync screws and started from scratch. Adjusted the idle to 1000rpm which is carb#2. Then I adjusted #1 by ear to to get it close to #2 by idle. Then I hooked the carb-tune up. The sync between #2 and #1 was almost perfect with the tune. As expected #4 and #3 were rediculously off. Started turning screws and they started to come together, but the idle started to climb. Readjusted the idle back down and finally got all four carbs to pull the same vacuum. Ran like a Raped Ape. WOW!! Now here's the kicker. The motor stopped smoking and leaking. Here's my theory. Due to the motor being so far out of sync it was somehow building crank pressure and blowing oil out the overflow or a weak seal? How...haven't got a clue... Anyway, new tires go on next week. Riding when it stops raining... Thanks for sticking with me through this overly long post.... -
what should idle vacume be .....
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After all of the charging system woes I had over the last year I thought they were back after a 6 month hiatus. My Signal Dynamics idiot light starting to indicate (by color) that I was only charging in the 12v range and if I switched on my driving lights I was in the 11 range. Here we go again, or so I thought.... Today I pulled the seat and with my trusty DMM attached, I had 12.98 off, 13.82 at idle, 13.94 at 3000 rpm and with full accessories turned on had 13.56 at 3000 rpm and 13.48 at idle. Sooooooo, im gonna toss that idiot light and try and find a better meter. Im looking at the Kisan but the cost is putting me off. Maybe a Battery Bug will do. -
When I pull in clutch on my new to me 86 it wants to rev and then drop back down. It will go up about 1k quickly and then drop back down but not as fast as it should. Hasn't been wanting to idle. Have to choke it to keep it running most of the time. Thought I just had some crud in it. Don't think this is related to reving. Sea-foam and it will idle now most of the time when it is warmed up. Sound like vacum leak? I couldn't find one but didn't spend lot of time looking was busy putting back shifter that fell off.
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Hi guys.. so here I am with the little digital tach that you wrap one wire around your spark plug wire, press S1 to set how it reads either single fire, double fire or what ever else it does.. It has the S2 and S1 button on it.. I'm getting set to Synch my carbs and hooked up the little tach device and now *I* have that bovine look of incomprehension on my face as to what I'm reading.. At idle, I'm either reading 550 RPM or 2300 RPM in either S1 or the S2 reading.. HUH? I thought the idle rpm was around 900 rpm on this thing.. but when I jog the throttle up to 1000 rpm it sounds higher rev that what I had synch'd at with before.. Can someone illuminate me as to what "Idle RPM" should be.. and what setting should this digi tach should be set at? I know it's a dual fire ignition system, right? ****************** Ok so AFTER using the dual fire setting on the tacho, and reading in the book that the engine should be set at idle (roughly 1000 rpm) I synch'd up my carbs, which were WAY off after this winter.. So yes, the engine sounds like I am now adjusting it at a much higher rpm sound than before, however, this is a HIGH rev sound for leaving your bike at "idle"?? It sounds too much like an engine at idle with the carb heat (choke) left on full... ?? If I drop it to where the shops tend to leave the idle its now closer to 600 rpm.. smooth.. not chuggy.. taste great, less filling kind of sound. This was my first carb synch with the digital tach and yeah it was nicer and easier.. ONE thing I noticed though that causes me issues when making adjustments. Either settings phillips screw, if you push against them the idle speed drops.. if you leave it alone it will come back.. so when I place the phillips screw driver against the screws, I have to be ever so gentle with it.. so to not muck up the idle rpm setting while adjusting.. is this common? Thanks again.. let me know what you think.. Cheers
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83 xvz12 idle ~1100 #1 balanced at about 4-6 in mercury #3 balanced at about 18-20 in mercury idle screw maxed out up When trying to bring #3/4 down to match #2, can't keep it running, drops idle Needs #1/2 brought up with idle screw, but already max up-screw limit Carbs torn apart and cleaned, new gaskets,orings- but missed main fuel needles at the time, recently found it after removing pressed in needle caps, screws were factory? set under caps a mix from 1/2 to 2-1/2 from bottom, reset all a 2 turns #2 cylinder has less compression than other 3, 150 psi vs 180 psi also carb#3 leaking small drip from top overfill drain Suspect I need to pull carbs again due to #3 fuel leak, and re-adjust float, and clean out needle ports I missed, but not sure that this will let me lower idle screw, while raising #2 vacum? Open up #2 needle for more fuel? Disreguard #2 and match other 3 due to lower compression on #2?? Suggestions???
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I'm at a loss in trying to figure out what's wrong with my bike. The bike runs great, except for the fact that the idle seems to increase when it gets warm...even when I turn the idle adjust screw so low that I need to keep throttle on to keep it running. The idle screw seems to only do two things: either be too high or too low...no middle ground. Occasionally, there will be a little popping from the exhaust when the idle is running high. I'm thinking it could be a lean condition. Haven't been able to find any leaks using carb spray cleaner. For carb items, I've replaced: air filter main diaphragms carb boots (w/ new o-rings) I've also synced the carbs and there doesn't appear to be a single car that is way out of wack. With that, I'm thinking it might be something above the carbs. Any ideas?? -
Let's see, I replaced the carb boots and o-rings, plugged the holes for the YICS, cleaned the K&N twice and oiled (one swipe accross with the spray), pulled the diaphrams (they still look new), soaked all the holes and blew them out, and synced the carbs (not that far off) and it runs like poo. Have not driven it yet, don't trust it. It was much smoother with the YICS on unless I goofed somewhere. It even kind of backfires up into the airbox. Blip the throttle and it is somewhat slow to come to idle. Hard to keep it at 1k rpm. When I added the plugs and the think for #2, after the sync, I noticed the idle jump up a few hundred rpm. Turned the idle screw back down but hard to keep it at 1k rpm. Thinking about emptying the tank (whats left) and putting new. This and the gauges today is making me lose that lovin' feeling. -
Still working on this thing, yes thing. I have lost that lovin' feeling for the time being. I cannot get the idle screw to touch the linkage even with it screwed all the way in. Does the "A" sync screw have anything to do with this? Is there an adjustment on the top cable that controls this. I can get it to touch the idle screw if I push down on the linkage. I have the cables disconnected at the round thing where all 5 cables meet. I have also sprayed deep creep in there but that does nothing.
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I haven't ridden my '98 RSTC for a while, so I thought I'd make the wife's requested grocery run on it. Since it has not been run in a while, I thought I'd idle it up a little while I put on my helmet and gloves. Well, the little silver idle adjustment thumb screw is nowhere to be found. Has any one else had this happen? Will it come loose and pop back under the tank? Seems like I remember it was hanging on a little wire bracket, but I don't see that either.
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Warmed up today and for the last several days the weather has been in the high 30's and low 40's...Uncovered the beast and deceided to start her up and let it run for a while...streets are dry ,but my driveway is all ice....nope. didn't want to chance it ....had the tender on it all winter and she fired up on the 3rd try...boy did it feel good to hear her come back to life....One thing I noticed is that at an idle with the signals on , my voltmeter was reading higher than it normally did (before I only had one green light on and at idle it would flicker with the signal on)....my battery is the original 05 that came with the bike...gonna put a new one on the parts list and install it before the begining of the riding season....best to be safe than sorry....I have to go over everything before the season begins and plan to swap out all the fluids including the brake and radiator fluids...I will put on new brakes whether they need to be changed or not (yes I'm anal about that) ...each spring I also replace the tires...front and back, but this year I'm going to leave the front on and ride on the rear for a couple thousand more miles...plenty of tread, just flattening out...(must be my fat arse doing that)...I run the 404's whitewalls and have had pretty good luck with them...wanted to change to the elite seres, but really like the white wall look....well,I am really hoping that its an early spring . Like the rest of you northerners , I'm going a little batty this winter...winters never bothered me before...must be an age thing....Thank God for you guys and gals to keep me sane....
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hi everyone well today i decided i would try to start the venture. it sat since ocotber. in my brother-inlaws garage i bought a brand new battery in spetember fot it. a gel type battery with out a hole for the sensor? well battery was fully charged still? i forgot the tender. well i turned on the switch. turned it over. it coughed and coughed. i turned the switch off waited. about 4 minutes tried it again. she caught and started to run? then just died? i did put seafoam in the bike. maybe way to much? 3/4 can to full tank. just before i stored it the bike was running rough. i posted about this before. i just never got a chance to go out and open it up with that seafoam in it. well thats not the main problem what scared me was after i was done trying to fire up the bike. there was gas under the bike? did i do something wrong? or was it because i kept turing the bike on and off did the fuel pump over fill the carbs.? i did push the bike to a new area in the garage and tried again about a hour latter. she fired on the forth try. ideld rough but did idle for about 12 minutes. i shut her down. do to a nervous bro -inlaw. hes been that way for 20 years LOL wont let me work in that garge.?? its a brick garage? except for the roof. what the hell am i going to burn down LOL. thats why oldgoat needs a job and to get a place with a garage. i hate idle hands. i could be out there. tinkering. but i also forgot i didnt install the new plugs yet. because i cant work in there now beacuse its stuffed wiith his stuff now. i will get that bike out in the spring. and work on it somewhere LOL.. or im going to see about a maintenace day that i can get to close by. but the bike needs more then a little maintenance i believe. i can run er down the road just wont idle? i need to get all the parts i got installed tires rotors brakes new gages mine work but water got in there at one time? new false tank well new to me. got radio and tape. and amp. mine work but buttons missing. so im replaceing. so when im done there will be free donor parts. like radio. missing buttons, false tank. broken tab for fuel door other wise a 5 out of ten. custom paint of a water fall on the tank. rotor covers starting to pit. and someone polished them with some wire thingy. lolks good at ten feet shiny but up close?? also have one extra throtle grip with cruise works great thought i need it bout one on ebay. only to find out my cruise wasent working due to a bent pulg connector. its working now. these will be free when the bike has the other parts installed.
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just finished clean and rebuild carbs 83 xvz12t, all new gaskets and orings, started rough but smoothed out when warm. during sync 1&2 come together good, 3&4 close but wont stabalize with each other. 3&4 much higher vacum than 1&2, and while trying to bring together, idle gets to low, and have maxed out idle adjust up to screw limit also notice that vacum sliders in bores 1&2 respone well, and vibrate with idle vacum. 4 barely vibrates at idle, but starts to open with throttle, 3 doesn't even start to open until even more throttle. rubbers diaphrams had no holes during cleaning any suggestions short of carb removal and teardown again history, got this bike 3 months ago in very rough shape-planned winter project. all kinds electrical problems-fixed, carbs and gas tank seriously coated in rust-tank cleaned,repaired and por15'd did i miss a vacum jet in carbs 3&4? which jet and can i spray carb cleaner stiil onbike? thanks for any input brian
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After I put the battery back in yesterday I did a static Current draw test. It's pulling about 3.3 milliamps with everything off. Then I hooked it up, started it and did a voltage test. Seems like the thing is charging at 13.92 volts at high idle and 13.88 at low idle. This was before everything warmed up. Does this sound about right? I thought it sounded a little low but I believe that's what it's put out since I checked it when I put the new battery in it about a year and a half ago. I'm going to check the connectors on the regulator and clean if necessary but I just wanted to find out what others are getting. Thanks:sign20:
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Anybody run into this? If I set the idle to 950-1000 with the adjuster screw, the RPMS are very slow to come back down after revving. When I ride, I shift and the RPMs stay prettty much where they were when I pulled in the clutch. Running good otherwise. -
My 87 starts to get real warm if i let it idle more than a few minutes. Of course, it's been hot here in Florida, but still. I just cleaned out a bunch of gunk, flushed and filled the radiator a month ago. ideas? Thanks, guys (and er, gals!) -
I have noticed a gas smell on my 84 Venture Royale and couldn;t figure out where it was coming from. I did notice that under the seat it looked like four overflow tubes? and while the bike was in idle gas was dripping from one of them? ANy ideas what could be causing that? I would sure appreciate any insight. thanks Rick
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Put diaphams and slides in this newly aquired 1986. Fresh gas and it fires right up. Will only run with the choke on until fully warm. Then will idle nice (after sync) but coughs and backfires when I give it gas. Any ideas for me to check out when I work on it again tomorrow?
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