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VR Assistance

  1. Is there an easy way to check/tighten the upper radiator hose clamp without having to tear a lot of stuff off the bike? Any tips regarding this is greatly appreciated! Regards.....Boomer....who suspects a very small coolant leak from the upper hose.
  2. 2nd Gen owners... You may have a slow water leak.... and not even know it. This slow leak can only be seen when the fuel tank has been removed because of its location. The water hose clamp I found leaking is located just above the right hand side engine dog bone. The leak will appear as a white powdery substance on the rubber hose, or on the hose clamp. You may even notice a spot or two on the TOP of the rear valve cover located on the right side front jug. Look carefully because it looks like dirt. I was able to turn the clamp tightening screw about 6 turns before it finally became tight on the hose. NOTE: Do not over tighten the hose clamp where it cuts into the rubber hose. I enclosed this picture to help you see what it will look like.
  3. 1. If your horns are not loud, take them off, remove the back cover, loosen the adjusting screw and nut and readjust for the loudest noise. Cover your ears! 2. Grease the hand and foot levers often, You'll be surprised how much easier they will operate and last. Do this often in wet climates. 3. Drop the carb needle jets to get better gas mileage. 4. On Std. models the area under the trunk under a black plastic cover is empty. I easily converted it to tool storage. 5. On Std models remove the fairing pockets/trays/compartments and cut it out . This will double your storage space. Fill in gaps with pink insulation? Carry light items only. 6. Cup holder: Walmart bicycle cup holder, $5, mount to handlebar. Use a metal insulated covered cup from $1 stores. 7. Wire tie the 2 side panel blackstraps to the frame so you don't loose them. $10 each from Yamaha! 8. The removeable rear trunks on MK1's have an adjustment on the underside brackets to tighten them up so they don't rattle as much. 9. My Venture leaned over too far on the side stand I easily extended it by adding a wood block under the foot. 1/2" thick. 10. I added a electrical brake light switch to the right handlebar to flash tailgators and when slowing down slowly. 11. If the trunk opens too far, hitting the driver in the back. Add a 2 piece lever that pivots in the center so the top lid only opens just over center. 12. The wires were too tight under the handlebar covers so I added a longer screw and spacer to give then more room. 13. On the rear fender the black extension gets dirty and muddy. I put silicone glue on the inner underside between to painted fender and black extension to keep it clean. 14. 2nd brake light $7 Ebay 24 LEDs mount on license bracket. 15. The blue high beam indicator is hard to see if it is "on" in the daylight (I drive with my brights on ALL the time, maybe why I'm still alive?) drill a very small hole in the center so you can see white light and recover with clear tape. 16. Footpegs vibrate? Put a small rubber insulator (inner tube?) between metal parts on the fold down stops. 17. Lots of slop on gear shift and foot brake lever? Put some thin teflon inside the pivots. 18. Aluminum screening on the radiator behind the grill will keep bugs and stones from going thru or plugging the radiator. 19. MK1's: drain the front air box drain hose back to the crankcase ventilation hose with a "T". 20. Loosely packed course steel wool will keep oil from entering the air cleaner in the crankcase vent hose line. (Or keep oil level at 1/2 way mark, scarely to me on long trips) 21. Glue the YICS box seam/joint before it starts leaking. 22. Glue the 4 air box intake rubbers in place so they don't leak or turn. See the tab on under side for positioning. 23. I took a good looking leather bag and converted it into a tank bag (don't laugh it's a purse with lots of pockets). Be Careful when doing tight turns. 24. There is a battery box drain hole (left rear) that just needs a hose attached to it so if you get a leaking battery it won't drain onto the engine, electronics, & solenoid, etc. 25. Use silicone (dielectric) grease on the intake boots, carb diaphrams, & all rubber to keep them soft. DON"T DO THIS!
  4. Showing "Ugly" to son. Been having E2 coming up on Class and it wouldn't pump up. Compressor would kick on run for few seconds and kick off. He was looking at bike and asked "Is this supposed to be hooked to something" and pick up end of compressor intake hose that sticks out from under side of seat. He said" It's got something in it" MUD!!Mud Duabbers strike again. Plugged the intake. Took hose off cleaned it out and works like a new one. I had been in there looking for maybe a leak but never thought of that. How long would I have looked??? Never thought it wasn't getting air. Heard some remark about "Motorcycle Mechanic." Made his day!!
  5. Ok so i found a hose not connected to anything tonight on the left side of my motor. the hose goese down to a filter or somting on the left next to the frame and then in front of the motor drains i gueese , it looks like a vent/ drain line. but the top end of the hose is not connected to anything. any idea where its susposed to go I dont see any thing in my shop manuale. heres the pic of the hose. http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b22/MikeM8560/Venture%20XVZ12/100_1422m.jpg
  6. how long should a fuel pump run if it disconnected from the carb hose thanks lee
  7. I changed out my stock air filters today with K&N's. When I took off the right side (looking at bike from front I found about 1/2 teaspoon of oil in rubber hose leading to filter case. Is this normal or should I be looking for dealer? Thanks, Ride safe and God Bless. Mike
  8. OK, so I'm merrily riding along today when my bike sputters, coughs and dies. I've had the petcock set on the main tank so I could get a rough idea of my city range before having to switch to reserve. I grabbed the pliers and switched to reserve. I restarted the bike and traveled approximately 25 feet before it died again and wouldn't restart. Fortunately, a friend happened by and helped me get some gas in the bike, but it didn't help. We put three gallons in, manually primed the carbs and it still wouldn't run on it's own. My first thought was the fuel filter's bad. I balled another friend who had access to a trailer and we brought tht bike home. I pulled the output hose from the fuel filter to the pump off and opened the petcock, fuel flowed freely from both the main and reserve side. I then reconnected the hose and disconnected the output hose from the fuel pump. Turned the key and nothing happened. "Ahah!" says I, "The fuel pump's bad!" I then removed the fuel pump, but then decided to test it in the garage just to make sure. I connected the leads to my 12-volt charger and it started pumping up a storm. Now I'm flustered. I'm thinking my problem either lies in the relay or the pressure sensor. Am I on the right track?
  9. Ok, I took the airhoses loose and now I can't figure how to get the air hose connections off to slide the forks out. I need help!!!!!! Thanks, Kevin
  10. How to Remove Your 2nd Gen Radiator Well let me start off by saying 14 months ago I had a little Mishap, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2437&highlight=Radiator+Leak I had to remove my Radiator and I decided to have it welded. Seems that part Held up ok... but now I have another leak, so here go’s Also, I had to use my Daughters Dig Camera and the pictures are not that great But I hope this helps someone if needed. (Note: all left and right are As if I was sitting on the bike) # 1 Remove the two bolts on the left and right lower fairings (# 4 mm Allen Wrench) #2 Look way under the bottom in the middle of the two lower fairings there will be A black plastic screw that helps hold the lower fairings together... the black bolt goes into this hole. #3 now remove the one bolt on the other sides near your air filters #4 here is a critical part in removing the two half’s. Make sure you Remove the RIGHT Lower fairing first, or you will most likely break on of these tabs, if you do JB Weld holds them back In place just fine. I know this because I broke on last year! This is how the two half’s look a bit apart left/right #5 remove the white plastic hose holder down under at the bottom of the lower fairings. #6 Now remove the black power wire on the left side for the fan this will be located on the left side. #7 Now remove the drain plug and drain the antifreeze. #8 Now the FUN part… loosen the top clamp for the rad hose. And next the lower clamp, I did notice the first time I loosened The clap after the factory had placed them they were very hard To get to.. Now I placed them so I can remove them in the future If needed. #9 The Bottom hose MUST be removed first, stick a screwdriver Or whatever in base of the hose to loosen it a bit. Do not tear the hose. Just deal with it and it will come loose sooner or later. #10 now work on removing that top hose in the same manner, As it starts to come loose you will be removing the Rad with A pulling downward motion and also remove it from the top TAB HOLDER. #11 Now with the RAD kind of hanging in place make sure you might want to put a towel on the rear of the front fender as well.. DISCONNET the Orange Plug from the Temp Censer. Squeeze the top/rear and it will pull right off. Now you have removed the Radiator. Here are some shoots not very good but what to Remove from the Rad before having it Welded Or Adding the Rad Parts back onto a new one Like I just ordered.. I will have this one checked And re-welded for a back-up in the future maybe. Here are some pics of how my old one looks now and the old Weld, looks like it help up.. I also have ordered a NEW RADITATOR Cover from Steve. To match my MM Venture. So maybe this will my love of removing 2nd Gen Radiators? http://www.wagnercustomproducts.com/ Should look very kewl! I hope nobody has to go through this ever! And if So I hope this helps you a bit. Feel free to PM me if you need to contact Me about this project if you ever have to do this. Thanks again Scotty. Jeff
  11. As I was working on Mocha last night I came across a couple of leak points. It seems that the right front spark plug wire was mis-routed. It was laying against the radiator fan in such a way that the fan wore through the loom, casing, and into the wire!!!!! This caused all the magic zappy stuff to occasionally leak out! I was putting new wires on anyway so I just had to get a new piece of loom. The front shocks have leaked several times. Seems that the hose between the legs was spliced. The splice fell apart causing all the puffy air stuff to leak out! Installed a good used hose (and correct fittings) now the air stays inside the shocks. The best news is that all of this only cost me about $7.00. The loom came from a set of coils and wires I got off E-bay for about $4.00. The hose and fittings were gotten the same way. Also bought 12 lbs. of hardware and found all the little screws and chrome bolt caps I needed. Got the plug wires from E-bay also. Waiting on valve cover grommets and I should be on the road. Fixing plastic items tonight. Pics attached of the wire and hose. Notice that the hose has 2 ridgid male ends. It needed a swivel end and a fitting. Must have been made from 2 hoses. Took them with my cell phone so sorry about the quality. JB
  12. I've been working on the bike the last couple of days and everything going well. I was putting the gas tank back on this morning and noticed a loose hose that smells like gas. I cannot find where it goes. On the other side it looks like there is a similar hose going to the lowers where the air filters are are located. It feels loose also, I did not pull it out. Can I just slide the hose back into the space or does it connect to something? Thanks:confused24: Everette
  13. While riding my bike today I hit something metal on the road and one of the two hoses going into the reed valve broke off. I noticed a sound like air being forced out of the metal tube. Since I have my AIS valve plugged, can I just plug the broken hose also? Or do I have to replace the rubber hose with the L-shaped connector going into the reed valve? Any answer greatly appreciated!!!
  14. Take the trunk off and on the rack that it sits on, put some 1/2 inch inside diameter by an inch or so long pieces of hose on where the rubber pads are on the underside of the trunk. Just slit the pieces of hose lengthwise and wrap them around the rack. When you put the trunk back on you may need to wiggle it side to side some and pull backward. Once you get it on and locked, it will be nice and snug!! RandyA
  15. From a former article & thread; someone needs to properly claim the work, as I didn't save any names. Sorry. EDB I thought I'd share the Carb Synch Tool that I made for about $15.00. It uses 3/16 inch ID Vinyl tubing mounted to a board with coaxial antenna lead fasteners and is held upright by a tamping tool. It is charged with Transmission Fluid so that both lines are level with each other. Works just fine and is CHEAP to build. Those are two separate pieces of 3/16 inch ID vinyl tubing that I bought at a hardware store. I made the loops at the bottom as gentle as I could to prevent pinching. The ends of one hose connects to Carbs 1 & 2 and the other hose connects to carbs 3 & 4. I synch carb 1 to 2 while reading that hose, then 4 to 3 while reading the other hose, then carb 2 to 3 while reading those hoses. There is minimal pulsation (bounce). it is about 4 feet tall. The first time I tried it I used it on my Virago and the Synch was so far off that I had to keep killing the engine before the fluid was sucked into the carbs. I was finally able to get the Synch screw adjusted enough so that I could let the bike keep running while I finished the Synching. if a pair of carbs are so out of balance to each other, that one of them could initially try to suck the fluid out, so you would have to quickly kill the engine and make an adjustment, and then restart the engine to see if the adjustment helped or worsened the condition. The start-kill-adjust sequence may have to be repeated several times before you can let the engine stay running while you fine-tune the balance. Boilerman said that the hose he used for one loop was about 20'. After using 8' (4' x 2) for the board, that leaves 12' (6' on each end) to connect to the bike. About 2 1/2' gets it from the top of the board down to the carb level, then another 1 1/2' to the carb on the other side of the bike. I was happy to see your design for the carb synch tool! I work for a hospital. On my area of the hospital, they throw away oxygen hose all the time. A lot of it is 25 feet long. I took a walking stick I have, taped up the oxygen hose, which to my delight is 3/16 ID and filled about two feet of the hose with motor oil. It took a while to get all the bubbles out, but I had a slow pulling fluid that was easy to work with. I synched 1 and 2, then had a shock to see that 3 and 4 were so out compared to 2. I am slow, so it took me over an hour to get it all synched. Now the bike starts quickly and doesn't sound like a Cushman Scooter! THANK YOU for the picture example so I could copy the method. I will be reverting my walking stick back to it's original use! The money I saved helps me to afford the reason I bought the bike. I figure I have saved myself over 500 dollars with everything I have gleaned from this site in only 2 weeks. Okay I know I where glasses but these are for seeing distance and I do not wear bifocals. But where is the last screw for syncing cylinders 2 to 3. I found the others two but not this one. Do you have to lift the tank to get at it. ? I tried taking the rubber hoses off the other night to start this job but they are stuck on big time, so I would assume this has not been done in a while or at all. (looking forward to seeing the readings). Watched Don sync a 2nd Gen last year at Vogel and you don't have to remove anything. Screw is a little hard to locate. The left rear carb is # 1 Left front is #2 Right rear is #3 Right front is#4 as you are sitting on bike. Between 1 and 2 there is only one screw. You adjust these two first and then adjust 3 and 4 to them. So there are only three screws. I think it is kind of up under the edge of the tank. You have to bend over quite a bit to see it. I assume you found the one on the left side near the choke knob. The other two ore accessed from the right side. One is easy to get at between the two right side carbs (approximately the same location as the one on the left side). The last one is between the left two carbs, but points to the right. You need a LONG Phillips screwdriver to reach it from the right side. You will probably need to poke the screwdriver through the carb linkages just under the tank edge to get the right angle. The screw for 1 & 2 you need a long phillips screwdriver and acess from right side. 3 & 4 is also a phillips and is right between the carbs on right side of bike. The screw to sync left carbs to right carbs is just above the choke on left side and is a Slotted screw. Not an ice pick, but a flat blade screwdriver with a very thin head. Get the screwdriver between the end of the hose and the carb, and PUSH the hose. Which screw can't you find? Did you find the one that you get to from the left side, up above the choke knob? It has a hex head, with a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. The head is pointed down slightly, so you have to get your head below the level of the choke knob and look up. It's the only slotted hex head screw in that area. It syncs the left side to the right side. Or if you like, it syncs #1 and #2, to #3 and #4.
  16. Okay, if your on the road and your brakes stick on what do you do? I just finished solving this on my 1st Gen (83) and this may help you!! I am going to try and include pics with this!! I replaced my pads for a 10 day cross country ride coming up and ended up with a sticky Rear/front brake system.. If something like this happens to you here are some suggestions.. 1. If your bike feels like its lost power, is hard to push back and forth or if you just plain smell hot brakes - STOP and check them! 2. With a damp fingertip (spit works great) carefully touch the surface of your rotors (like testing a hot clothes iron). 3. If both left front and rear rotors are hot - its the rear system. If its just the right front its the front brake.. I am only dealing with the rear system at this time.. 4. If its the rear system, take an 8mm box end or a socket and open the bleeder on the front left caliper - have a rag hany cause if it is a stuck system your gonna get fluid out and you dont want it on your rotor.. 5. Push the bike back and forth or put it up on the center stand and see if the she rolls easy now.. If it does and the problem had effected both front and rear brake rotors (remember - your back brake pedal is activating both front left and rear calipers) check these items.. 6. Look at your master cylinder - at the bottom of it is a rod sticking out and an attachent for the pedal. Gently hold that rod between your thumb and finger and see if it has movement back and forth and a small amount up and down.. If it doesnt, you may need to clean the pivot for you pedal and/or adjust the freeplay screw to get play in it.. Now try your brakes - if still stickin go on to 7. 7. Pump your pedal HARD!! ALthough it is BEST to remove the rear brake master cylinder to do the following, so you can take it all apart and clean it thouroughly, I am going to give you some info for "on the road" fixen!! It also may be worth just doing this first BEFORE doing a complete take down - always start with lesser surgery first - I learned that from my NeuroSurgeon! 8. Expose the rear master. 9. Notice where the hose from the Fluid Resivore attaches to the Master. It is attached with a small phillips screw. Remove this screw. 10. Take a pair of pliers and squeeze the rubber line about 3/8th inch above the little plasic elbow that you just removed the screw from.. ITs best to have an extra set of hands there to do this as youwill want this line held closed during surgery. 11. Gently turn the hose back and forth to move the plastic "L" in its holder. Pull out while doing so.. The "L" is held in by an O-ring. 12. Make sure you dont loose the O-Ring when the L coomes out of the master - maintain squeeze on the hose (by the way, I carry a small set of surgical forcept pliers in my tool kit - VERY handy for all kinds of this stuff!) 13. Look at the pics I have attached - If you look closely you can see the little wire I have protruding from the return bleed hole back into the fluid res hose. This little hole is the hole that is on top of the cup that recieves the "L". 14. You WILL need a small wire to unplug this hole. I am using a bristle off a wire brush - someone who responded to my original thread about all this suggested this and it works GREAT!! I also use wire brush bristles for carb jet cleaning!! On the road I wouldnt be afraid to take a strand of wire from piece of wire (ya'll carry a little spool or wiring in your bag dont cha?).. 15. Push the wire into the top orfice and be prepared to get a SQUIRT! WHen I did this on my 83 it SQUIRTED out like a high pressure squirtgun!! 16. Work the wire in and out to clean out the orfice real good. 17. Wipe the insideof the cup where the L goes out real good. 18. Clean the surface of the "L" and the o-ring real good. 19. Relax the squeeze onthe hose and let a little fluid out. FLuid should RUSH out!! 20. If the fluid barely trickles. 21. Squeeze the hose again, point the opening of the L that goes into the Master down toward the ground. 22. Squeeze the hose above the pliers with your fingers. 23. Let go of the pliers a little so the fluid is forced out - you may be shocked what you get out of the hose - I WAS!! Re-Squeeze with the pliers as soon as it bleeds a shot!! 24. Replace the end of the L into the cup on the Master. 25. Release the pliers and squeeze the hose so fluid is gushing out around the L while pushing it in. 26. Replace the phillips screw!! 27. Pump your brakes and they should release and the wheels roll free. 28.. Put her back together and RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh yea, you might want to check your Brake Fluid first chance you get!! Special thanks to ALL who responded to my other thread about this!! Lots of GREAT info there folks!! "puc
  17. Plugging the AIS System The AIS is an emissions system which introduces oxygen-bearing air into the exhaust ports on the exhaust stroke. This induces further combustion of hydrocarbons in the exhaust pipe and greatly reduces emissions. It is driven by intake vacuum pulses. The only purpose of this system is to help satisfy our good old EPA requirements. Though good in theory, it's bad in that under certain conditions it can cause a HUGE backfire on deceleration that actually sounds like a shotgun going off. The first time this happened to me, I thought we were being shot at and my wife almost jumped off the bike. Disabling the AIS is a simple process and one that will not affect the performance of your bike in any way. The following is one way of doing so. There are two assemblies that you have to deal with. One on the rear and one on the front. We'll start with the rear and it is very easy. On the right side of the bike, just below the rear shock, you will find the first one. You'll want to disconnect the large hose with the gold clamp. Now..you can use most anything to plug the hose. I used rubber stoppers that I had picked up at a local Home Depot store. You can find these in the hardware department but a wooden dowel rod or most anything of the proper size will work fine. Look carefully and you can see that I have stuck the rubber stopper into the inlet on the AIS valve. Now in this next picture, I've simply stuck a piece of duct tape over the end of the valve and stopper. You can probably skip this step if you want but being born and raised in Texas...it's just part of my upbringing. Any job worth doing is worth using a bit of duct tape on. Besides...it keeps the plug where I want it and not up in the hose somewhere. Now you put the hose back on and you are done with the rear. That wasn't so bad was it? Don't worry...though essentially the same process, the front will give you plenty of grief simply because it's harder to get to. Now the front AIS valve is located just in front of the oil filter. The attached blurry picture is a bit hard to see but you can see the gold clamp that secures the hose you'll need to remove. Now....there are two ways to do this to make it a bit easier. The first way would be to do it when you do an oil change. With the filter removed, you can pretty much forget the rest of this write-up. Simply disconnect the hose as you did on the rear, insert the rubber plug, add the duct tape, reconnect the hose and you are done. If you are ready to do this and you are not ready for an oil change, here is a tip that will make it easier. Just below the drivers floorboard on the left side of the bike (shifter side), you will see two allen bolts. These are the bolts that secure the AIS assembly in place. Remove those two bolts and the assembly will be free, held only by the hose that you will disconnect. You can now pull down on the assembly enough to get to the clamp without skinning your knuckles. Once the hose is off, the assembly just drops out. Now...just plug this hole in the assembly as you did on the rear. Put it all back together and you are done. Not a difficult job at all. Figure about 30 to 45 minutes total.
  18. How in the name of all that is holy do I get an air hose onto the front tire valve ? My compressor has the long stem which cannot fit -- I'm buying a air gauge with a 45 degree head -- I'm betting one of the companies sells an adapter for the hose too ? Thnx, DREBBIN
  19. The Jason Mod This is a procedure that was submitted to my original Venture forum several years ago. It was submitted by Jason Morris and thus...is called the Jason Mod. The following is the write-up done by Jason and it is followed by pictures that I took when I did it on my bike earlier today. Does this work? The reviews are mixed but probably 10 to 1 in favor. Either way, it is cheap to do and certainly doesn't hurt anything. As stated, you might notice a little bit of a difference in the way your bike idles. It's kind of neat really...kind of sounds like you've installed a very mild cam. Anyway, here is Jason's write-up. The theory behind this modification is simple. ALL engine tuners know that if you design an exhaust system with the cylinders that are timed 180 degrees from each other to dump into a common collector, there is sizeable increase in efficiency a.k.a. more horsepower. Well the same goes for a correctly tuned intake system. Just look at the V-MAX and you'll know what Yamaha did to increase it's potential. Simply put , this modification is a simple V-boost that works all the time. HERE'S WHAT YOU DO 1st GEN.1200 - Disconnect the YICS hoses. Then using 1/4" fuel hose connect the two left cylinders together at the YICS spigots(1 & 2). Then do the same for the right side (3& 4). 1st GEN.1300 - Since you do not have YICS, the connections are made at the carb. sync pipes that stick out of the manifolds.You'll need 3/16" fuel hose and a 3/16" vacuum tee. The vacuum tee is because there is a vacuum line connected to manifold #2(left front), which goes to the ignitor box. Remove the rubber caps from the other 3 pipes. NOW using 2 1.5" pieces of hose connect the tee between #1 and #2 manifolds and attach to their pipes. Then connect the hose going to the ignitor so the hose basically goes up(yes the tee is upside down).NOW using a 3.5" hose connect the right two (#3 and #4) cylinders together.>>You're done... 2nd GEN. 1300 - The only difference between the 1st gen. and 2nd gen is the location of the vacuum hose to the ignitor. I think it is at the right rear manifold #3. So the location of the tee would be opposite.RESULTS Quicker throttle response at all rpms, especially down low. More pull at small throttle openings allowing higher gear usage around town. You'll be able to redline the bike at less than 1/2 throttle in the gears 1st, 2nd & 3rd. Better gas mileage , usually 5 to 10% The only negative, a slightly lumpy idle.I HAVE HAD THIS MODIFICATION ON MY BIKE FOR 50k miles without a problem. Never fouled a plug. In fact my plugs were last changed with 25k miles on them, and they still were good! If your Venture ran good before, then it'll run great now! I could go into more detail as to why this works but lets not get too technical. MY DYNO results speak for themselves 93.2hp@7000rpm and 81.2 ft.lbs.@ 4600- 4900 rpm. You're WELCOME. I am at Americade every year and Hope to go to AMA Vintage Days 2001. Hope to see you all at one of these. Bye the way mine is an 1987 VR with about 60k miles on it and it was just dyno'd again this past Spring. Please let me know how well this works out for you-all out there. I know it worked well for my local friends. Jason Morris Now...here are some pictures and comments from my own installation of this mod. The 2nd gen. has vacuum hoses on cylinders 2 and 3 and plugs on 1 and 4. The vacuum hoses actually go to the AIS system so if have disabled the AIS system, you don't need to use the "tees". Look carefully at this picture and you'll see that one nipple has a hose, the other a cap. http://www.venturerider.org/jasonmod/jmod1.jpg In this picture, I have removed the hose and the cap...now you can see the nipples. http://www.venturerider.org/jasonmod/jmod2.jpg You'll need a piece of 3/16" fuel line hose about 2 1/2" long with two clamps. http://www.venturerider.org/jasonmod/jmod3.jpg Simply insert this short piece of fuel line between the nipples. http://www.venturerider.org/jasonmod/jmod4.jpg That's it. Repeat on the other side and you are done. If you have NOT disabled the AIS system, you have to modify this procedure to include a tee. Simple use the Tee to connect the hose that was connected to the one nipple into this crossover. Same on the other side. Don
  20. Alright, so that '77 XS750 that I bought... I was tinkering with it this weekend and all said and done, I got the old girl to fire up. I traced my prior electrical issues to a faulty ground wire... specifically the one running from the battery to the ground on the engine. I'm thinking the connection at the battery is to blame, but as there isn't much slack in the wire unless I re-route it, I think I should just replace it.. so my first question: What guage wire should I use to replace the ground? And is that something that would generally be easy to get? Next question: Whoever owned this bike before me... I have no clue what this guy was thinking when he worked on it... but the airbox was in pieces, parts of it were missing... and there was no air filter. So I opted to remove the air box completely and go with the clamp on style pod filters. This left me with my new problem... the bike has a hose that ran from the back of the engine into the airbox... The shop manual states that this hose routes carbon emissions back through the carburators to be reburned. the original air box had a spot where this connected, but with the pod filters I'm stuck with leaving that hose hang loose. When I had it running, I was getting some nice smokey exhaust coming up out of this hose. Anyone got any ideas on what I can do with this? Should I just plug it or should I try to fabricate something to cycle it back into the carbs? Final question: once again, no clue what the previous owner was thinking, but the wires to all the lights (brakelight, headlight, turn signals) have the grounds all spliced together into one ground. And the guy evidently didn't know what to do with it, so he wrapped it in electrical tape and left it hanging loose. I jury-rigged a wire to it and connected it to ground and amazingly enough, all my lights that I thought were dead came to life! so now for the question: Do I just ground this to my battery or should I run a new wire down to the engine ground or just ground it to the frame? Thanks in advance for ya'lls help. I really appreciate it!
  21. Brake Bleeder If you have ever gotten air in the rear brake system of a 83-85 Venture you know how tuff it is to get it out again. This is a simple fix, well maybe not that simple. In 1986-93 Ventures Yamaha fixed the problem by adding a short extension to the left front brake hose Part # 2WR-25873-01-00. The end of the hose was mounted on the top of the triple tree with a small bracket. This hose Must be ordered from Yamaha Japan . There are two other parts, NUT 95306-12600-00 & bleeder assembly Part # 1NL-W0048-00. It was $105 for the hose from Yamaha. But if you can find it in a junk yard it will be a lot cheaper and you will get all three parts. It is a little tuff to get the Banjo bolt out and back in because it attaches to the proportioning valve almost hidden under the top bar on the triple tree see Pic 01, the hose routing see Pic 02. http://www.venturerider.org/brakebleeder/image003.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/brakebleeder/image002.jpg Picture 1 Picture 2 This would be an excellent project for those winter months when you aren't riding. Fred Vogt
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