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A FEW WEEKS AGO MY 93 STARTED TO BACK FIRE WHEN I ROLL OFF THE GAS ONCE IN A WHILE,SO I WAS THINKING IT MUST HAVE A EXHAUST LEAK SOME WHERE, TODAY I WAS CHECKING IT OUT AND FOUND MY COLLECTOR IS LEAKING FROM THE SMALL HOLES IN THE BOTTOM. SO IF ANYONE OUT THERE HAS ONE I COULD BUY TO REBUILD OR A GOOD USED ONE IM IN NEED OF IT. THANKS! -
Finally got my long awaited luggage rack for the '99 RSV. Ordered from CruiserCustomizing.com for $84.95, including all hardware. It really is very nice, but very scary to install if you've never done something like that before. Once you start drilling holes in your truck lid, there's no going back! I followed all of the instructions to the letter, at least at first, but quickly found out that the 1/4" holes don't allow for any wiggle room to get the bolts lined up to the rack, no matter how exactly you measure and line them up. Due to the curvature of the trunk lid where the rack sits, I had to keep enlarging them a little at a time until I could start the bolts into the rack properly. They ended up being about 7/16ths in diameter, but the tapered billet washers are wide enough to cover these completely, as are the rubber mounts that keep out the water. I also added a little silicone gel to totally seal the holes, and some blue lock-tite to seal the deal. Very important to not over-tighten the bolts as I can see where the fiberglass/plastic will certainly crack in very short order. They just need to be slightly snug. All in all, not a very difficult install for anyone who is going to add this really nice rack, but like I said, a little scary making them holes! (I added a few pics. Hope you can see some of the detail.) Remember what Confusious said: "Measure, measure a thousand time - - but drill it only once"!
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This is how I de-linked my Gen 1 brakes (probably applies to MKI & MKII): I found a front brake coupler that almost fit the mount holes on the lower triple tree (Kawasaki GPZ1100). These holes were used to mount a plastic holder - pic 3. The mount holes needed to be slightly enlarged and longer screws added. A local shop made two braided brake lines for about $42 each. I also bought a handful of aluminum crush washers from him. I reused the original rubber hose for the left front caliper to route the front brake master to the coupler. This hose will be replaced with another braided line soon. It is too long and seems to be making the brakes a little spongy. At first I couldn't get any brakes when the lines were connected and fluid was added. I pumped fluid through the system from the top with the master and pulled fluid from the bottom with a neighbor's brake vacuum tool. A note from this forum suggested strapping the front brake handle overnight and that worked. I now had a little bit of brake action. I bled the system again and strapped it for about 36 hours. The front brakes were working, but, the brake handle would touch the throttle grip without an impressive amount of braking. This is when I found the plunger adjuster. Inside the front brake handle is a screw with locking nut. It adjusts the stroke of the master. I set it almost all the way in. I can now pull emergency stopping with two fingers on the brake handle and not pinch the other two fingers on the throttle. I am very pleased with the way the brakes now work on my VR.
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Last night I installed a pair of Powerlets on to Roxie. I liked what I saw in this thread, and decided to do it myself. I'd been biding my time, but then I saw an article on a DIY Powerlet to USB Adapter. I wanted the USB adapter to recharge phones, headsets, etc. And with a camping trip coming up, with the need to inflate air mattresses, now was the time! I dealed primarily with BurnsMoto. Stephen Burns has been a joy to deal with. He responded to my questions quickly, and shipped about 5 minutes after I ordered. I ordered on a Friday, and had everything to me by Monday AM. He was missing the Low Profile Adapters, so he went through Powerlet. They screwed up and sent the stuff to him, and he resent it to me. I bought the Powerlet to USB adapter elsewhere, but BurnsMoto now carries it. It is in fact made by NAPA, so it could be widely available. Anyways, here's what I bought.... The Powerlet Low Profile Adapter with a 24" lead (x 2), P/N PKT-046-24. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4618825544_4868782079.jpg The Powerlet right-angle adapter P/N PPL-004 and the NAPA USB All Weather Power Outlet P/N 782-6003 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3388/4618824062_5867e11a69.jpg The Powerlet to Cigarette Adapter P/N PAC-012 Like it or not, most doo-dads want cigarette plugs rather than Powerlets. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4618825306_638d2bb2a4.jpg The Install Here is the side cover, basically a plastic filler plate from her left side. The holes are where the passenger floorboard mounts, the small inset is for the screw that holds this piece on, and there are two "bosses" that plug into rubber boots for positioning. I had to drill two holes for the Powerlet. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/4622257362_06a2dbbfab.jpg Using the step drill, I bored two holes for the low profile Powerlet outlet. The instructions said to use an 11/16" hole saw, but I actually used a step bit. I am glad, because the holes are two steps bigger than 11/16"! http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3402/4622258072_ca2a109969.jpg Here is the Powerlet half way through, showing the rubber gasket. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4622258508_7f1a08fa5d.jpg The Powerlet seated on the rubber gasket. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/4621652251_7e194a45ae.jpg On the backside, an aluminum washer is installed, then a brass jam nut is used to tighten it down. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1153/4621652551_7bfda7cecb.jpg One of the Powerlets installed. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3406/4622259406_0c24fb31d8.jpg The backside, showing both Powerlets. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3355/4621653059_06024aac0d.jpg The Powerlets are covered with right angled rubber boots on the backside. What a PITA these things are! http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1163/4622259876_772c54a635.jpg The final off-bike step is to add the white "T" connector. This connects the battery harness to the powerlet. You can see the harness below. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4622260160_0300f8343d.jpg (Harness) http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4618825544_4868782079_m.jpg You can see the cavity that the plastic cover goes over in the right middle, right in front of the drive shaft. Confession time: I misjudged where to drill the holes in the cover. The rear Powerlet conflicts with the large bolt at the back of the cavity. Not much, maybe 1/8". But it is enough to make me want to buy a replacement cover and do it over. Maybe put one outlet on the left side, and another on the right. *sigh* http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4622262028_c6183f79dd.jpg Here it is installed. Note the power leads coming out at the top. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1176/4622262274_d5d7584030.jpg This is how it opens. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3386/4622262494_c41d9999ea.jpg Now the right side fuse cover and the passenger floorboards are re-installed. When the floorboards are up, you can hardly see the Powerlets. Note too the coil of wires up top. I lacked a spade connector, so I used the harness as supplied. As a result, there is a vast amount of excess wire at the top, under the seat. I need to fix that soon. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1155/4621656099_6302ff4d8f.jpg Job done! Now I can power my auxilliary electronics, like my phone/MP3 player, or an air mattress when I go camping. I can also use it to attach a trickle-charger to keep Roxie's battery charged. I added a pair because I am planning to buy electric clothes, and they'll plug in here. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4621656431_334326c902.jpg This was a pretty easy job, aside from the mis-measurement. Having an outlet or two designed for powersports will be a real benefit! -
Hello everyone. Got home from hospital late Saturday afternoon. Very strange not to have this heavy weight on the end of my leg! Have some stitches in my knee, where they did some corrective surgery on a bone spur, and plenty of holes where the wires went through my leg. All going well so far. I'm off to see orthotics on Tuesday about a brace for my leg. Good to be home.
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I am need of some help. I have finally got my parts but I am having problems putting my windshield back on. The book don't show how to put it back on. I don't even know if I have all the parts. I have two brackets with rubber on one end and then 2 bolt holes on the other that has what I would call guide pins that the bolts go through. It looks to me like they go down at the bottom in front but I don't know if the rubber goes up or down. Then I cant figure out how to bolt the rest of it up. I can see 2 bolt holes up at the top by the mirrors but I don't know if there is supposed to be a bracket that goes between the windshield and the frame. Next I have a bracket left over that I don't know where goes. Mine is green and looks kind of like a butterfly. There is four bolt holes one on each corner and then 2 bolts that look to be pressed in coming up through the middle. The old one has plastic broken off still attached like it would go to a fender or something like that.
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Let's see, I replaced the carb boots and o-rings, plugged the holes for the YICS, cleaned the K&N twice and oiled (one swipe accross with the spray), pulled the diaphrams (they still look new), soaked all the holes and blew them out, and synced the carbs (not that far off) and it runs like poo. Have not driven it yet, don't trust it. It was much smoother with the YICS on unless I goofed somewhere. It even kind of backfires up into the airbox. Blip the throttle and it is somewhat slow to come to idle. Hard to keep it at 1k rpm. When I added the plugs and the think for #2, after the sync, I noticed the idle jump up a few hundred rpm. Turned the idle screw back down but hard to keep it at 1k rpm. Thinking about emptying the tank (whats left) and putting new. This and the gauges today is making me lose that lovin' feeling. -
I was buttoning up the fairing after several weekends of maintenance and mods and noticed something on the bottom of my passing lamp bracket. There are 2 little squares welded onto the bar that appear to have tapped holes in the bottom of them. This might be a nice place to add an aux light mounting bracket. If no one knows what I am talking about, I will post a picture. Thoughts? RR
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Been fighting a cold, hayfever and finals at school for the last few weeks and now when I feel better and have a short time till spring quarter starts up, I got a couple of things holding me up from getting all the fairing and covers back on the vr. On the diagram below, I can't remember where these,(60), go? I noticed on both inner panels, there are holes the same distance apart, but the collars of the plate are to big for the holes. If they don't go there then what does?
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A very Special Thanks goes out to Squidly and Gunboat for all their help this weekend!! Thanks alot Guys!! I would not have got it home with out ya`ll!! These folks used their weekend to help me get a 54 Case Tractor home that I bought Sat. and then Squid dug holes ( Big ) holes, and then Man handled some big bushes out of my truck and helped replant them!! We only had one workmans Comp claim...Gunboat smashed his finger..Twice..same finger so only one claim can be filed...He is doing fine this morning as Squidly gave his Finger a Big wet Kiss..so all is good!!!! Thanks for everything Guys!!!! Kreg
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Recently had exhaust Y repaired on bike under warranty, successfully I might add, but now I have discovered exhaust blowing through small holes (2) underneath each rear pipe section. Is this normal? I originally thought they were for moisture drainage. Can someone shed some light on this for me. Thanks, Ebabe
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I changed my plugs, put in new diaphragms (3 out of 4 had lots of holes), ran seafoam, synced the carbs, and my mileage went all the way up to 40mpg. Recent tanks it dropped to about 35-37. So I did the modification whereby I put in a small crankcase filter, and plugged the holes to the airbox and removed the "T" fitting going up to it. Many thanks to skydoc-13 and his write up on how he did this. My mileage is back at 40mpg. One of my cylinders warms up just a tiny bit slower... when i check it with my hand...(back right). I'm not sure that is the problem. Bike runs well, starts right up. Should I recheck the sync? How often does one syc the carbs? The plugs are clean, I have lost 3 mpg somewhere! Thanks -
My 06 RSV came with stock RK pipes. I would like to get a little more sound. How do you drill the baffles and how many holes do you drill? I looked at some of the old posts but didin't see specifically how it should be done or how many holes? Thanks -
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Still wrenchin' on the '91
Condor posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Pulled the covers off the '91 to get to the #4 carb and it's non--reactive diaphragm assembly to see why it's not working. Sad to say I pulled out what looked to be a brand new diaphragm, and whoever installed the thing didn't make sure the lip bead was seated in the groove properly and crushed the bead when they screwed down the cover, and then left it that way. It's been sitting in there for lord knows how long and the lip has been deformed to the point where it will no longer seal. I did pull out a used one that had a half dozen micro holes in it, gave it a shot of Plasti--Dip, and got the slide to start working, but not good enough to match the movement of the other 3. So, I trying to get this bike preped for Cody in two weeks, and I need one good assembly with no holes....fast. Anyone have a good used spare I could buy and they could priority mail it to me?? -
When I get more time, I will post pics of my father's day weekend with my daugther and also pup in my pup tent. In high school I was part of the explorer scouts (basically a recruiting tool for the National Guard). We did camping so I have a military pup tent (assuming Army). I haven't had it out since high school but thought it would be fun for the kids to play in. Anyway I tried setting it up and did an ok job of it. Here is where some of you might have to break out your field manuals. LOL. Is there an SOP for setting up a military pup tent? For instance in order: Poles on each end, guy line on each end, ground stakes on each corner and 2 in the middle. My problem was that there was a bow in the middle and I just imagine the ridgeline should be straight. When I post the pics, you will see what I mean. Also what was used for ground covering and guessing it isn't waterproof, so what was put over it to keep the water out? Seems like I remember a rain poncho thrown over the top or used for ground covering and just snapped the poncho to the tent. Been a long time so I don't remember anymore. I don't know if there are any variations of military pup tents but, the tent itself it 2 halves that overlap in the middle and snap together. You have 2 holes on each end for the tent poles and a loop on each end for the guy line (I think that is what the rope is called). You have 3 holes on each side for the tent stakes (really 4 on each end if you include the holes for the flaps. There are some markings on the tent that I wonder if anyone might know about or how to find some info. about it. It says DR MO W2 2PEQ. The tent pole is in 3 sections on each end and all but one is stamped 1975. The other one I don't remember the date, seems like either in the 80's or early 90's.
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Here are a few pics of the detachable bracket i'm manufacturing & selling. This bracket has Rosette thumbscrews which make the on/off process quick & easy. There are six (6) one inch slotted holes to make the bracket fairly universal, although you may need to drill your own holes if your tour pak can't make these holes work. Can be purchased in black powder coat to match the bikes framework, unfinished (either one $199.00 + shipping) chrome plated ($325.00 + shipping). the Rosette thumbscrews will screw directly into the existing threaded (chrome capped) hole on either side of fender bracket. http://i42.tinypic.com/1hcpk0.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/5n55pu.jpg -
I have shortened the center holes on the Leveling link to (converted Inch to MM) 169mm now I would like to shorten the holes distends to 165mm raze the rear about 1/2 inch do you think it will be safe or cone you see a problem Thanks
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I just bought a set of Billet Passenger Floorboard Backing Plates (STR-4NK27-03-01) from YamahaSportsPlaza. I received them but before opening them I noticed the mounting holes don't match up between the new & stock pieces. According to the vendor, these are the right parts for my 06RSV. I must be missing something cuz I can't see how they'd work without drilling a hole in it, which I'm not gonna do. The attached photo shows the two side by side. Notice how the mounting holes don't match up. Anyone have these? Is this the right replacement part? -
I unbolted the trunk on our "02" RSV thinking I would just move it back to another set of holes. The holes are there but when you move it back it sits on the rubber piece that is molded around the bottom of the trunk. Has anyone actually moved their trunk back on the second gen bikes? Bob
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I finally got a chrome luggage rack for my 07 Venture. Before I start drilling holes I figure I should ask for any tips. Is there a trick to figuring out where to position it? In the future, I thought I may get the lighted spoiler that Yamaha sells. I have seen somewhere on this site that you can have both if wanted. I don't want to position the rack in the wrong place as to rule out the spoiler in the future. Do any of you have any tips? I plan to start drilling the holes tomorrow morning. Thanks in advance, craigr
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Here are a few pics of the detachable bracket i'm manufacturing & selling. This bracket has Rosette thumbscrews which make the on/off process quick & easy. There are six (6) one inch slotted holes to make the bracket fairly universal, although you may need to drill your own holes if your tour pak can't make these holes work. Can be purchased in black powder coat to match the bikes framework, unfinished (either one $199.00 + shipping) chrome plated ($325.00 + shipping). the Rosette thumbscrews will screw directly into the existing threaded (chrome capped) hole on either side of fender bracket. http://i42.tinypic.com/1hcpk0.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/5n55pu.jpg
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I know this is a Motocycle site but I trust the members here more than anybody else. Thinking of buying a used boat. Wanted to know some of the things I need to watch for. I know its not suppose to have holes in the bottom ? Right ? Found this one close. http://www.boattrader.com/listing/1986-BAYLINER-16-92184658 And this one a lot further away. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=017&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270233744559&rd=1 Any recommendations would be great.
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Hey all, looking to put a pocket in each of my 2nd gen rsv in each lid. Found a set that is rather inexpensive but my question is howw do they hold up and will they fall down into bag during the hot summer months if they are attached with 2 sided tape. The photo of them shown at link below shows open rivet holes on the ends and I'm sure not going to drill into lids to attach them. anyone already using these and if so how do you install them? thanks Bein D. http://www.americanmotorcycleaccessories.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AMA0740
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Hi, Over the 3 years I've owned my 87 VR 1300, I've averaged 36-37 mpg. While this is right in the mid-range of what a bunch of y'all get, I was always perplexed by the 45 or even 50 mpg-ers. FWIW, I've checked all the usual suspects (fuel levels, new diaphragms, pressure sensor working, new plugs & tuneup, etc). I've experimented with up to four 9/16" holes in the airbox lid which did little to nothing. Then I came across 5bikes (Chuck) and his recommendation to lower the carb metering needles, that it runs rich from the factory in the needle range. Hmmm... Well, after some foolin' around, I arrived at the following: - Needles lowered .050". - All extra holes in airbox taped over (didn't run well with needles lowered AND holes open). It's running well and for several tanks now I've averaged 40 mpg with the same driving cycle and style I always do. I pulled one spark plug after these few tanks and found that it's very light gray on the ground electrode, light tan on one side of the insulator, the rest of the insulator is white, and just a bit of black on the end of the threaded portion. Seems about right with the detergents in today's gas. A 10% increase with this adjustment is good, but only half the story. 5bikes gets high 40's on his 1200 but rides almost exclusively country roads and in no hurry either - steady 55-65. I commute to work which is about 1/3 Interstate, the rest mostly suburban / rural roads with a little city. On the Interstate I'm doing 75-90, and other roads I like to accelerate briskly to somewhat over the speed limit (shame, shame). Chuck asked me if I'd run a tank or two slower to see what happens. Thru a supreme effort on my part, I rode the Interstate at 65-70, kept the rural and city roads at or below speed limit and accelerated very gently - for one tank - I couldn't do it any longer :-) The results for that tank? 43 mpg - best I've ever done. So now I'm trying to find a happy medium - a little more spirited so it's more fun, but not as fast as before which will also be better on my driving record. (My current tank, judging by the behavior of the gas gage, will probably end up at 41 or 42.) If I truly ran a tank on just country roads doing 55-65 I'd probably get 45. (It also seems that the 1200's get a little better mpg than 1300's.) I've always heard, and it makes total sense, that driving slower produces better mpg. On one hand I knew my wrist is a wee bit "leaden", but pretty much denied to meself that I was aggresive enough to cause poor mileage. Then I'd read posts here, one says it's all in the wrist, another says their bike gets "40 no matter how they ride". Well, I took numbers, did my best to control the variables, and this is the result. Jeremy
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I plan to direct wire my 2720 street pilot directly from my battery tender connection under the tank and to the handlebars..Question.. should I wrap the harness with rf tape or something or is it alright just to use it as is?... also talked to Paul Robbins at Garmin ,great guy.. a rider himself..(913) 393 8200.. (ext 5934) I wanted to order the wireing harness from him (35.00)..He is sending me the harness FREE without shipping cost..I told him I didn' but the unit from Garmin.. it was a refirb...He stated to me that it didn't matter and Garmin stands by their customers..He also stated that I should look under the unit to find 4 small air holes..Told me to insure that no condensation would ever form on the screen if I drill 4 one eighth holes into my ram cradle directally under those holes..didn't know that..now you do to...If you ever need any assistance from Garmin I would suggest you call Paul directly..You'll make a new friend..Cant say enough about the great service I recieved from Paul.....I have also fired off a letter off to Garmin telling them about their great customer service..
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