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Showing results for tags 'holes'.
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As part of my changeover to the MKII forks on 83, I am wanting to slide the forks up a little in the tripple tree. When I changed my springs to Progressives, even though I did not use any spacers on the springs, it raised the front of my bike up some. I will be transfering these springs and won't be using any air and wondering if any others had done this and what did they do about the holes where the air goes into the tube. I suspect the holes will be up under the clamped area, but feel they would still need some type of seal to keeping from leaking shock fluid. RandyA -
well I changed the front tire yesterday, I have an issue with the lift adapter. I couldn't get the holes to line up If I pushed the rod in from the right side (brake) through I could get three of 4 holes and missed the last one by half the diameter of the rod( Might have been able to force it) if I tried from the left (shifter) side I could only get two holes, no matter which way I moved the adapter around. Is there an adjustment (grinding one of the tabs) or is there a trick I'm missing? its funny I've had the adapter almost a year and haven't needed it till now. With the GF out of town was gonna fix tire last night (done) and detail the bike today (if I can figure this out) i'm gonna subscribe via instant alert so if anyone has an idea it'll shoot right to my phone.
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Hi, I have been looking at the trailer hitches available for my 06 RSTD and they all come with the round bar all the across to connect to the saddlebag brackets. But when I look at my bike, I see 2 bar/brackets with threaded holes in them. I have attached 2 photos of the bars. Does anyone know what is supposed to be attached to these threaded holes? Thanks
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Has anyone done an installation of a chrome rear fender tip, the "Official" Yamaha fender tip that requires drilling holes for the mounting bolts? I installed the front fender back of fender tip with no problems. My question is how much "Stuff" would I need to remove to have access to the rear fender to be able to drill holes in the proper locations. I'm sure I would need to remover the bags, but how much of the other hardware must be removed? Thanks!
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I've got a pair of Wolo Bad Boy air horns on my 89. The left one is newer because it was replaced after a crash. The design of the left is a bit different than the right, it does not have that apparent intake hole like the right one and the Stebel horn has. The left horn started sounding pretty weak. I tore into it expecting to find a nest of some sort in the intake hole, which I never found. In my search I noticed that there are a pair of holes in the bottom which are apparently used to hold the brushes back during installation (at least that's what I used them for on reassembly). Since I had the armature out I lubed the bearings. That solved the problem. My guess is some dirty water got in through the bottom holes which put some drag on the shaft. The last couple rides before it acted up were wet and sloppy. The older horn has the same holes and I suspect is vulnerable to the same problem. **EDIT** Didn't mention: The armature can be removed by removing the brush plate at the bottom. There are a pair of phillips screws near the electrical terminals. Putting screws back is not fun because magnets pull them out of alignment with the holes. I stuck the ends of a paper clip through the holes to hold the brushes back during assembly.
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my 09 didnt have them when i got it,,can someone tell me or show me a pic where thay mount,,,some pic show mounting holes and some dont
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I need one of the metal braces/brackets for my 88 trunk It's on the right side (looking from the rear of the bike) It's the offset "L" shaped bracket that runs up the front side of the base section, bends towards the center of the bottom and has the flared plate on the end with 4 mounting holes Mine is broken in two, PO had it welded (badly) and it broke again. If anyone has one , please let me know and we'll work something out. Thanks
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I cut out the back of the mufflers and went crazy with the drill. First two holes that turned to four holes that turned to six drilled holes. I am a reformed Harley drag pipe guy. I went mad I think. I kinda like the rumble of the small block Chevy sound. But as I age I also appreciate the quiet morning runs that do not wake the birds in their nests. I am converting back to stock. Question. How many here regretted drilling their pipes and like the stock sound? Anybody need some drilled pipes?
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Went on fairly long trip last weekend and notice the bike was sputtering a little and had a little backfire once in a while. Anyway, I pulled the plugs and found that the front left was much darker then the rest as you can see in the photo below. Some history, I replaced the TCI with the new electronic one from the group buy, I run a shot of seafoam with every gallon of gas, I only use Premium fuel. After replacing these plugs today, I installed Skydocs Shim Mod on the sliders and since the Torx screw was not present I have to assume the previous owner was already into these carbs. Diaphragms looked new with no holes at all. I do have a set of new NGK spark plug wires I bought from ebay but i have yet to install them. I know I will need to have the carbs synced soon, but I am having trouble finding a dealer that will work on this vintage in my area. http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/IMG_0368.jpg -
I have a 2002 RSV and was given a centerstand off of an 84 venture. Matching up the bolt holes to the bracket on the chassis seems to be exact. Does anyone know if I can just attach it to the existing holes on the chassis and if I can, does someone have a diagram on how the spring and lever attach to the stand and frame?
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Has anyone heard of putting a few extra holes in the inside surface (3ea ¾ dia.) of the air filter housing along with a K&N? Sounds plausible as these engines like to breathe and that's what the V-Boost is all about on the VMAX.
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My truck is suffering from a bad case of chemical weight reduction. The rust is coming thru from the inside in areas that there is no access to the inside. I am not a body man by any stretch of the imagination. I am not looking to restore it to like new appearance just to stop the cancer and cover the holes to keep it from getting worse and stop the whistling in the wind. I was looking at POR15 or Rust Bullet. But I have no idea of how to get it to the insides of the areas that are rusting. The rust has created plenty of holes stick things in there. Is there some kid of a wand spray gun that can be had for not to much cash? I was then going to fix the areas with glass cloth and epoxy resin, followed by some Bondo to smooth it out a little before I buzz bomb it.
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I believe it is called the needle daiphragm for the carb, but im not entirely sure. Started my rebuild today and noticed all the rubber boots had holes in them. Anyone who knows that its called would be much appreciated
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whats the best way to drill mounting holes for trunk rack? i finally found a rack for my 83 and trunk never had a rack and any tricks you guys have to drill the holes without cracking the trunk lid?? before i go drilling -
Has anyone removed the stock rear turn signals / brackets? How bad are the holes left behind in the fender? Are there three holes?
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The question is to anyone that has installed the HD licence plate light bar on their bike. What has anyone done to finish off the 90 degree bend at the top of the bracket with the two holes in it. I believe the two holes were used to bolt it to a tour pack or frame work that the tour pack is attached to. With the RSTD the bend is very visible since we do not have a rear trunk, it's not that it is terribly distasteful, it just looks like something is missing.
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Just when you thought you completed your mental checklist of hazards: Inconsiderate / rude / inattentive drivers pot holes animals here comes one you wouldn't expect.... http://www.cp24.com/servlet/an/local/CTVNews/20110829/110829_motorcyclist_injured/20110829/?hub=CP24Home
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I want 1st phase only. Do I drill half inch holes around front baffle? thanks Richard
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Are there supposed to be any little holes that look like drill holes in the sides of the air cleaner box? I think I have about 4 or 5 of them. I didn't do it. They are in the filter area. If not, what is a good way to plug them? Duct tape? lol -
I know a few members here are aware of the story of Jonas' bike. Long story short, I was commissioned to do a bunch of modification work on the '98 Royal Star he keeps in here in the States. The list includes VMX cams, 32mm carbs and VMX rear gear along with a few other smaller items. Here are a few pictures to go along with the progress. The first is cams, VMX on the left and stock on the right. There's a good difference in size there. Cams and springs are a drop-in fit. Second is the VMX rear gear being machined for the speedo sensor. Third shows the new pair of bolt holes in the heads to mount the 32mm intakes which have a different bolt pattern to them. Here, the new holes are the upper right and lower left, where the holes for the stock 28mm carbs are the opposite. My '96 did not have the extra set of bosses for the bolt holes, so I used an adapter plate as shown in my 32mm carburetor swap article elsewhere on this board. I was not aware that later heads had blank bosses like these do, so in this case, instead of adapter plates, I drilled and tapped the bosses for the bolt holes. The adapter plates on my bike work fine, but this is a nicer result. The fourth shows the 32mm carbs in place. I am almost finished with this project. I have had to procure a few odd fiddly little parts at the last minute, stuff that you can never foresee. Once those come in, it should only be a couple more days and it should be ready to ride. I know he is anxious to see it and ride it this summer.
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On my way to Marcarl's this spring, I ran over something that did a job on my exhaust collector (on the highway at 70mph). Ended up with two fairly large holes on the botom, one with a large dent. Carl tried a patch but that did not hold. I tried more patching with some muffler cement and again, the heat and pressure blew holes in the patch areas. Any reason why I can't weld a patch in place? How important is it to try to straighten out the indent before patching? All comments appreciated!
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Hey guys i ve read all the search forums and nothing shows for raising the bike. Mine uis the 96 rs . the rear monoshock is horizontal so the leveling links wont work. my prob is that when I get to do some good turns I scrape on my floorboard as well as my year bottom pipe and braket. I am a heavy guys and have been through the shock settings. this is the one setting which feels best. Large holes are a bit rough at high speeds but 60 mph back road cruising is very comfortable. Now before i get people telling me not to treat it like a sport bike! My turns are far from saggressive. or who knows maybe they are . But my buddy with a 96 electra glide takes the same turns with no scrape. Same speed also. What can i do?
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Finally got my long awaited luggage rack for the '99 RSV. Ordered from CruiserCustomizing.com for $84.95, including all hardware. It really is very nice, but very scary to install if you've never done something like that before. Once you start drilling holes in your truck lid, there's no going back! I followed all of the instructions to the letter, at least at first, but quickly found out that the 1/4" holes don't allow for any wiggle room to get the bolts lined up to the rack, no matter how exactly you measure and line them up. Due to the curvature of the trunk lid where the rack sits, I had to keep enlarging them a little at a time until I could start the bolts into the rack properly. They ended up being about 7/16ths in diameter, but the tapered billet washers are wide enough to cover these completely, as are the rubber mounts that keep out the water. I also added a little silicone gel to totally seal the holes, and some blue lock-tite to seal the deal. Very important to not over-tighten the bolts as I can see where the fiberglass/plastic will certainly crack in very short order. They just need to be slightly snug. All in all, not a very difficult install for anyone who is going to add this really nice rack, but like I said, a little scary making them holes! (I added a few pics. Hope you can see some of the detail.) Remember what Confusious said: "Measure, measure a thousand time - - but drill it only once"!
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This is how I de-linked my Gen 1 brakes (probably applies to MKI & MKII): I found a front brake coupler that almost fit the mount holes on the lower triple tree (Kawasaki GPZ1100). These holes were used to mount a plastic holder - pic 3. The mount holes needed to be slightly enlarged and longer screws added. A local shop made two braided brake lines for about $42 each. I also bought a handful of aluminum crush washers from him. I reused the original rubber hose for the left front caliper to route the front brake master to the coupler. This hose will be replaced with another braided line soon. It is too long and seems to be making the brakes a little spongy. At first I couldn't get any brakes when the lines were connected and fluid was added. I pumped fluid through the system from the top with the master and pulled fluid from the bottom with a neighbor's brake vacuum tool. A note from this forum suggested strapping the front brake handle overnight and that worked. I now had a little bit of brake action. I bled the system again and strapped it for about 36 hours. The front brakes were working, but, the brake handle would touch the throttle grip without an impressive amount of braking. This is when I found the plunger adjuster. Inside the front brake handle is a screw with locking nut. It adjusts the stroke of the master. I set it almost all the way in. I can now pull emergency stopping with two fingers on the brake handle and not pinch the other two fingers on the throttle. I am very pleased with the way the brakes now work on my VR.
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There's a lot of threads/posts regarding levelling links including a "how-to" to make them yourself. Rather than adding to any of those, thought I'd just start a new thread due to a specific question. In the how-to, it says to drill the holes at 6 & 5/8 inch center ( 1/4 inch less than stock ). According to that, it should give about a 1" lift which changes the rake & trail of the bike resulting in better handling. I'm wondering (since I haven't read anything related to it) .... what effect a person would get if they set the holes at other positions such as, for example, 6.5 inch center or maybe even 6 & 3/8 inch center? Just curiosity here but I haven't seen any comments that address it.
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