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Showing results for tags 'head'.
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In another thread, I mentioned that I had taken the back roads headed towards Wendover. There is a morning or afternoon ride out west of Salt lake that I really enjoy. South on I15 to Bangerter to Redwood Road, South on Redwood to SR73 (Lehi Crossroads), West on SR73 through Cedar Fort and South to Fairfield. The Old Camp Floyd and Stagecoach Inn are real interesting If you are into Utah History. West through 5mile Pass Turning left at the Faust Cutoff. West and stop at the Pony Express Monument just to look around and mabey see some antelope. On to Faust Station (old railroad stop) and on to the Vernon Highway. South To Vernon and stop at a little place called the "Silver Sage Cafe". Very small but nice folks and Great food. Then head north to St. John (Ruch Valley) turn left through town to and over Johnson's Pass down through the farms into Skull Valley. Drops you onto the highway just north of Dugway Prooving Grounds. (large military post, very secret) Turn North for a nice ride to I80 and from there you can either head West to Wendover, East to Salt Lake City, or around the mountain to the Grantsville exit into Grantsville. I like to head into Grantsville Grab a little gas and head over to Tooele then south to Stockton and back to SR73 through 5mile Pass and back to Redwood road. Great 160-180 mile ride and alot of great roads where you can let the old girl run a little and wonderful desert sceenery. Have fun and ride safe. DJ
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The 83 is running grate thanks for all the help. the bike pulls to the left when I let go of the handle bars, is this caused by a lose steering head bearing or may be tire any ideas.
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While riding through Yellowstone Park and heading into West after "doing the Bear Tooth"my head light went out. I pulled everything apart at a gas station and could not find a problem anywhere. Ended up driving 90 miles with my driving lights.The next day my mechanic beat his head against the wall looking for the gremlin. I made a jumper with alligator clips to at least have a low beam functional. Then I found the problem ,a sticky starter switch, it was not coming fully back out which cut out the headlight. (duh) A little W-D 40 on the switch and the light came back on . The jumper is tucked away inside the fairing just in case. Thought I might share this one, it's awful dark out there...
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I have Roadhouse 65's slip-ons on my V-Star. About 4 inches behind the clamp where the pipe slides onto the stoch head pipe, there is a 2 inch wide brown/yellow blotch. the head pipe is not blued. Is this normal? Any way to clean it? Have not talked to Roadhouse yet. Was going to call them, but don't have the number and their web site is down right now.
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I've been having problems with the original head sets ('01) shorting out and not working most of the time, so I replaced them with a couple of "Chatter Box" head sets. Well, here's the problem... the rear set can send but not receive (she can't hear a dang thing I say, but I can hear everything she says!). Consequently, the problem must be in the wiring for the back set. Can a person with little or no (me) mechanical abiltiy replace the back part of the intercom system?
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Fork Seal Replacement The manual will tell you to remove the fork assembly from the Bike, but this is not necessary! What I will explain is in my opinion is the fastest way to do the job. Special Tools needed Impact wrench (electric or air ) 17 MM hex head socket 8 or10 MM hex head socket (Most are 10mm but I have found 8mm) Last but not least you will need a tool to insert the seal into the fork body. Yamaha sells a tool, but it won’t work with this procedure, I made mine. See photo “tool” The rest of the tools needed come in the bike tool kit. To start: Place the bike on the center stand and a floor jack under the motor for safety. Remove as much air as possible from the front forks. { this is very important!} There is a small screw on each of the forks facing outward, this screw will let oil come out when removed and will let the rest of the pressure out, so unless you want a bath have a container ready. Remove the front brake calipers, wheel, and fender Place a container; pan something to catch the oil when you do the next step. Using an 8 or 10 MM allen socket and impact wrench remove the bolt at the end of the lower tubes. Remove the fork brace. Raise the dust cover on the first tube (small screw driver will work) Use screwdriver to remove the locking ring under the dust cover. Remove the plastic cover on the steering head and (86-93 disconnect the plug for the lights.) Remove the grills on both sides of the steering head. Remove the handlebars from the steering head (you don’t need to remove or disconnect anything just put them to the side) Remove the plastic/rubber covers on the fork tube caps. Loosen the 2, 12 MM headed bolts (or cap head bolts on later models) at the top brace on each side. NOW BE CAREFUL! Using the 17 MM hex head socket and what I call a speed wrench; stand on the foot pegs positioning your self so that the end of the speed wrench is against you shoulder when you loosen the tube caps. The caps have fine treads and are spring loaded so again be careful. Remove upper assembly & the spring on Yamaha springs or the plastic spacer and springs on Progressive springs for cleaning. Now to remove the lower tube by using it as you would the weight on a slide hammer, they don’t come off easy so start out easy and increase force until the two separate. When they do come apart; clean the inside of the lower tube be sure to note how the small pieces fit! If they are not put back the way they came out the anti-dive won’t work… Now remove the bad seal and replace it with the new one, be sure to use a little oil on the seal before installing it on the tube. Note to remove the old seal you have to remove the upper and lower bushings, silver washer, seal and gold colored washer when you put them back keep them in the same order. Reassemble in reverse of the above. You will need 13.5 oz of 10 or 15 WT fork oil for each tube. If the bike has a lot of miles or you live in hot country use 15WT Good luck and ride safe If you have a problem you can e-mail firstgen@mtariders.com or call 775-751-2169 Fred Vogt tool
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help!!! i cant seem to find anything on how to bleed the clutch.. and i cant find a bleeder.. i have 2 bikes that need this done on them.. :bang head: :bang head:
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Without going into details, here's a great 5 day ride from Vancouver. You'll see lots of exciting and varied scenery, not to mention the many historical landmarks. Start anywhere around Vancouver and travel east to Osoyoos. Overnight there at either a camping spot or motel. Make a reservation if you're travelling during the peak season. Second day, leave Osoyoos and travel east to Nelson. Beautiful scenic area with lots to see and do. Places to stay shouldn't require pre-booking. Third day, leave Nelson and travel east towards Balfour & Kootenay Lake. Head north up the lake towards Kaslo. At Kaslo, head west to New Denver, then north to Revelstoke. Stay overnight at Revelstoke and be sure to check out the "music in the square" downtown during the summer. There's lots of camping and motels plus a few great resorts. Some will require a reservation or you won't get in. My personal favourite is Glacier House Resort. http://www.glacierhouse.com/ (mostly because I worked for them on contract before, during, and after the construction of the resort and of course because it's a fantastic place) Fourth day, leave Revelstoke and head west, stopping overnight in either Kamloops, Cache Creek, or Lillooet. Kamloops is a major interior city whereas the other two are quite small. I prefer Lillooet as a stop over vs Cache Creek. Fifth day, head west via Lillooet and towards Pemberton and Whistler village. Continue on that route through Squamish and finally back at Vancouver. A great 5 day ride averaging about 5 - 6 hrs or so per day riding so lots of time for stopping here and there. All roads are in very good condition and offer a wide variety of straights, curves, hills, 2-lane, 4-lane, tight corners, etc. I'd provide more detail but typing time today is limited. Possibly some of the folks viewing this who are from those areas can elaborate on places to stay, things to do, etc.
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Tried to hold damper rod while using air ratchet and damaged the head on the socket cap screw that holds the damper rod in place. I put the socket on a hand ratchet and it ramps up out of the head. How to get this off? Any ideas? I'm tempted to clean it off with brake cleaner and epoxy the socket in place.
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heres the tool i came up with 23 inches long and the bolt head on the end is 15/16ths o.d. Lee
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Grabbed some 320 grit Wet/dry sand paper and took it to the cylinder head covers. Came out pretty good and didn't cost anything since I already had the sandpaper. Just sanded the edges till they shined.
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I posted this info once before but it's been lost since the sites crash so will put it up once again. Hopefully others can benefit from this idea. Ok we all know how flimsy the front crash bars are, especially if you've added foot pegs. I made up a set of supports to my bike to add some rigidity to them. There's a couple of advantages to adding these supports. One is no flexing the lower cowlings thus reducing chances of cracking them as some have posted. Another is in the event of either crashing or dropping the bike the bars won't fold back and cause more damage. What I did was to purchase a pair of 1" chromed clamps, cut two strips of 10 gauge (1/8") flat stock 1" wide x 5 1/2" long, and bought 4 stainless steel button head bolts with nylon lock nuts. I used three piece clamps but other types can be used as well. Stainless steel can be subistuted with chromed or plain steel as well. Next was mounting the each clamp to the front bars, adding the strip steel after drilling holes on each end. Then positioning the other end of the strip steel on top of the floorboards b mounting bracket. Locate the end of the hole where you can add the other bolt. Drill a hole thou the floorboard bracket and finish the install. On the bolt that goes thru the floorboard bracket I put the button head on top. There's only a little room there thus that's why I used button head bolts ove hex head types. You'll also find it easier to drill the holes after taking off the bracket too and it also gives you more working room getting the bolt there in place. Here's a couple of pics. I'll add a couple more later with more detail. Larry
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Will the head set from a gold wing fit a 2006 Venture? I noticed a website someone referred to and it was all gold wing! I am a new venture owner Thanks Biker John
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When pinstriping and trying to make that curve and to make it stay there...........How Do You Do This???? :bang head:
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Hey Fellow Ventureriders! I own an '86 VR. My head set speakers sound BAD (tinney, rattles, etc.). Does anyone have any suggestions on speaker replacement? Thanks
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There Used To Be A Thread On Adjusting The Steering Head Bearings. Is This Still Available.
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