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Showing results for tags 'grease'.
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Stopped by Honda of Jax today to buy a tube of moly 60 paste. They had only one left and it was resealed sloppily with tape, the cap covering the tube was askew and there was grease marks on the tube. I asked if they had any more in the back as I know this is a standard ploy to only display something they want to get rid of before they put out the good stuff. They said no. One of the mechanics came over and said that sometimes they might run out of their stock in the rear and might open up a tube and take a "dab" from it then reseal it. Told them that i wasnt too comfy paying full retail (15.99) for an open and obviously used package. They just shrugged their sholders and I walked out. Now im pretty sure that there was nothing wrong with the grease itself, but I sure didnt like the way the dealers retail staff handles their product and customers. Sorry guys, but im no idiot.
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Hey Duke, now where did you say the tail light bulb was? LOL I have over 40K on my 99 and there was very little grease left. BTW, anything special about fork oil? Might as well change that while I'm here. Thanks, Spotsy
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Any suggestions? (PLEASE don't say grease them.... :-) -
Can I grease the ball? Do I need to keep it clean to provide a grounding source for the trailer or does the 4-way flat do that?
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Question to the experts. Is it possible, from lack of grease, for the Coupling Gear to wear enough to allow wobble of the drive shaft? This is not on my RSV but rather on my VStar 650. They are very similar in design. I have been having problems with a noise in the final drive. I disassembled everything (or so I thouhgt) and greased it. Turns out only half of the coulping gear got grease. Upon FULLY disassembling the unit, I grease the end of the drive shaft and the end of the pinion shaft. Upon doing so, the grease truned a nice rust color. After putting everything back together and the wheel on the bike, the "clicking" noise had subsided greatly. I ask about the wobble because there is a small but noticable groove half way round the drive shaft right about where the shaft goes through the housing. I am hoping that the engineers designed all this so that coupling gear ($18 part) would wear out first/fastest so to save the drive shaft ($125) from damage. Do I dare just replace the coupling gear and see if all "clicking" noise goes away? Sort of a one-piece-at-a-time approach?
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I replaced the factory installed BrickStone tires at 6,500 miles as the rear was getting worn out. So, while I had the rear tire off, I decided to pull the drive-shaft and grease the splines with Honda Moly 60 grease. I also greased the splines and the fingers that are on what the service manual calls the "Clutch hub." (Item 7 on page 7-13 of the service manual) Of course I cleaned off the factory installed grease before applying the Moly 60. I have seen Scheaffer gear oil #209 and 209A have Moly in them, but I cant find any locally so I also changed the rear end gear lube with some Amsoil Synthetic gear oil I had. I put some Moly 60 in the rear end. About 1/4 teaspoon full to add some Molybdenum Disulphide to the rear-end as those gears take quite a bit of shock load when shifting gears. I did NOT change the engine/clutch/transmission oil, so I don't think the noise reduction came from that area. Too bad the engine and transmission share oil with the clutch..... I would like to put Molybdenum Disulphide in them too but it would probably ruin the clutch................... OH I used an Acid Brush from the plumbing department of the hardware store to apply the grease. I cut the brissles off to only about 3/8" long so they would be stiff. I applied the grease in a light coat. I wish I could easly get at the universal joint at the front end of the drive shaft, so I could use the Moly 60 on it. It looks lite the middle gear is lubricated by the engine/clutch/transmission oil, so I cant apply Moly 60 to it -
Hi Y'all, I'm changing my rear tire and have some questions. I've done the tire once before on this bike but don't remember noticing these things before. First, the grease between the wheel and final drive spline is NASTY. Now, I'm sure I put some fresh grease in there last time, but I must not have bothered to clean the old stuff out. Now it all looks like old stuff. That doesn't happen on my Virago - it always comes apart looking pretty good in there. What is your experience? Next, there is an oil seal in there in a strange place that's not in the parts diagram, and I think a PO fitted it. It's a standard, spring-backed double-lipped seal. If you have the wheel off and look into the female spline in the final drive (from the RH side), in the center there is a collar that protrudes 1/4" or so, maybe 3/4" in diameter. It's stationary (doesn't turn) and the axle comes thru it. The seal is fitted onto that collar. There is no bore for the OD of the seal to fit into. It appears the part of the rear wheel that houses the needle bearing sandwiches the seal against the backside of that female spline bore so that the seal turns with the wheel, and the seal surface rides on the stationary collar. What this would do (if it actually seals) is separate the grease in the needle bearing from the nasty grease in the spline area, which could be a good thing. Anybody else seen this in their bike? Finally, I pulled the final drive to lube the spline ends of the driveshaft. As in my Virago, it came out with the driveshaft attached. The manual shows the driveshaft staying in the swingarm, and pulling it separately. It also shows greasing both ends. Since mine is assembled, I can only see the forward end splines. What's up with that? Thanks in advance for your suggestions, and for bearing with my long post. Jeremy -
How does one tell if the swing arm is damaged? I also cant get grease to go into one fitting. Took it off cleaned it out but still grease wont go into fitting.
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Anyone know where I can find a diagram of grease nipples for an '84 Venture ? There is one nipple on the driveshaft but I have not seen any other ?
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Is it OK to use a synthetic grease on the drive shaft splines, I have a tube of Amsoil 2000 series racing grease which has a lithium complex, it says its good for high and low speed bearings, wheel bearings and any high performance/output equipment. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm going to remove the rear wheel to replace the tire and may as well lube the the shaft at the same time. Thanks Ian
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Noise in final drive area after rear tire change
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Installed new rear tire on 83 Venture. Followed instructions, complete with lithium grease before re-installing wheel and lubing axle. Upon completion fired it up for a test run and got a very loud scraping type noise similiar to worn out metal to metal brake pads on a rotor. Lightly pulled brake handle and no change, stepped on brake pedal and no change. Put in back on the jack, fired it back up, ran it through three gears and no noise. Shut it down, put it in neutral and manually spun the wheel and could not detect any problems. The only wild card I can think of is upon completion with the bike still on the jack, I put the grease gun on the grease zert on the drive shaft housing. It took a lot of grease. I'm wondering with the swing down all the way when it was greased maybe this is causing the problem???? Anybody have suggestions before fight the misquitos and pull it back down? By the way, thanks for the reponses on no rear brakes. I finally elevated the front of the bike and bled off the front, then elevated the rear and did the same. Within 3 or 4 minutes I had rear brakes again. I remembered we had to do that sometimes with ford rangers bleeding clutches. -
I went to my multi-brand dealership to get some Honda Moly60 Paste grease however the parts counter did not stock it, so I had a tube special ordered for me. SO, I would have to ASSUME that the service department does not use it......... Does your local dealership stock it??????????
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I just got off the phone with the factory rep. He is at Tallahassee Power Sports and just finished riding my bike. He hasn't gone into the rear diff yet but believe's the problem is dry splines. He said in the past tires lasted approx 7,000 miles and yamaha recommended greasing the splines each time the rear tire was changed. The dealers also used regular grease on the splines and this solved the problem. Today tires are lasting 12,000 or more miles and with dealers using regular grease it is not getting the job done. Also there were some problems with some rear ends going out because the shims in the ring gear were too tight. After receiving notices from the factory reps in the field about this yamaha supposedly corrected this problem. This rep recommends that the dealers now use a moly 60 lithium grease. He said he uses it the field and at home for his personal use. He likes the honda brand moly 60 grease. Tallahassee Power Sports just purchased the honda dealership in Tallahassee so he asked the service manager to go over to the honda dealership and get two tubes of honda grease. The factory rep is going to re grease the splines and check to see if there is any damage to the rear diff. He also said yamaha will be notifying the dealers to start using the moly 60 grease. I hope this is the problem.
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I told everyone that I would give update to an earlier thread that I posted. So here it is; Checked her again - running 44 mile per gallon average. Riding from work and back and a couple evening and Sunday after church rides. Syncing the carbs did it, I am really tickled with my RSTD. I am very critical when I check gas mileage. Go back to same pump and park same way and fill to same level and around same time of day. This evening held 3.4 gallon of regular unleaded at 150 miles, thus another 44.1 mpg. Only thing that worries me now is the threads that I have read concerning no grease in the the rear ends/hub of these bikes, and to grease every time the rear wheel is removed ??? I have not heard any rear end/hub noises thus far, and hope it stays that way. But I only have 1,500 miles on it anyway. Hey in another 5,000 to 8,000 or so, I will probably get around 46/48 mile per gallon. :cool10:Love this forum, appreciate everyones feed back on my problem after new pipes and K&N air filters. *FIXED PROBLEM* -
Besides making sure you LocTite the shift lever bolt, you should make sure you have properly lubed the pivot. I noticed the shifter seems considerably more sloppy on my 05 with 40,000 miles than my 07 with 13,000. When I pulled the shifter off, I noticed wear on the pivot just to the rear of top center. It was also pretty dry. There is a grease groove in the middle of the pivot, and my 07 did show it had once been packed. I bet the shifter on the 05 wouldn't be near as sloppy had I checked this long ago. Note that this IS listed on the periodic maintenance chart in the Owner's manual! My bad for not having properly checked it sooner. The shop used to just use a spray lube like a thin white grease on this point as well as the kick stand and brake peddle, so maybe I'll get them to fix it under warranty. Goose
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I just cannot beleive it , I pulled my rear tire to change the rubber and to grease my splines for my first time yesterday and the splines had already greased up from past tire changes . Took my tire and wheel to the dealer to have them mounted and they only charged me $20.00 to mount and balance , incrediable ! And as I waited for the service to be preformed (30 minutes wait) they rolled it out to me , again , new fresh red tacky grease on the splines . I think I'm starting to like these guys a little bit more . But then again , several past visits they did get a peice of my mind . Wonder if they remembered that , :rotf:. BEER30
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When doing maintainance on the rear wheel hub assembly, is it okay to use "white lithium" grease, on the splines and hub pins,or is there another type to use? I know that some people have complained about the lack of grease in this area, the white lithium looks like it may be too light for the job. I had to pry the hub out of the assy using a pry bar, it was rusted in there good, no sign of any grease from the factory. I cleaned of the pins with a wire wheel and cleaned the bore's out with a .20 gauge smooth bore barrel cleaning tool, you know what I mean the copper brush thing, lol. Yes ay info on what type of grease to use would be helpful. Cheers Keith.
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I recently changed my rear tire and when i took it into the shop to have it mounted they took out the two spacers inside the hub. They wernt sure which way the long spacer went back into the hub.( this is the one that slides into the roller bering). It has a milled or reduce end on one end about 1/2. Anyway after lots of debating ( the service manual doesnt show) on which way this goes back in to the hub i decide to put the milled down part frist into the hub.. Was that right cause not i have a lot of grease on the rim of my wheel, which may have been from me being too liberal one the grease when reinstalling. thanks . jack in los osos ca
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My intercom plug doesn't allow me to talk through it. I first thought it might be the cable that goes to the helmet, so I switched them around to no avail. I even put a dab of dialectic grease in there thinking maybe a connection wasn't good. Well...a connection isn't good but the grease didn't help. Is there a common fix to this? The plug is quite loose compared to the passenger's plug so I figure something has just moved out of tolerance. Is the plug/wire replaceable? Parts are dealer only? Does this sound like a good time to "sell" the Scala Bluetooth headset idea to my wife? -
I have been reading about the noises coming from the rear end drive pins and I would like to take mine apart to grease things up, are there specific instructions for doing this or can I just wing it?
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Ok I finally made it to the dealer and bought the two rear bearings for the 83 Venture,By looking at the packages they look older than me and the grease is all caked and the grease has the old smell to it ,so I'M going to clean these tomorrow at work and repack them. Going to use Black Moly grease with a grease needle on these bearings is this good enough for them or is there some other grease that works better especially on the Cylindrica bearing?Any special way of repacking the cylindrica brg. Thanks buddy
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How often do you replace them? Do you go by the service manual? Or do you replace them each time you replace the tires? and will regular wheel bearing grease work or a special kind of grease? -
I have seen some suggestions on using dielectric grease on connectors. Question: Do you smear the grease inside the connectors or just on the outside where the sides of the connectors slide together. Wouldn't smearing it inside either short them out or keep them from making a good connection?-Jack
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Greasing the Rear Drive Splines and greasing the Hub Pins on the RSV By Tartan Terror NOTE: Most of us here would recommend Honda Moly60 as the grease of choice for this application. It will do a great job and last much longer than other types. First thing you will need to do is raise the bike on a lift and remove the rear tire. For these operations look for the instructions in other articles in this tech area. After you have the wheel removed lay your rear tire flat on the ground or on a surface that you can work on it with the spline side facing up (Looks like a gear). http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image1.gif I removed the dust shield (Rubber ring around the base of the gear) but it is not necessary unless you want to clean everything thoroughly. Wipe around the top edge of the gear clean and you will find a snap ring. Look carefully because it is hard to miss. Use a pair of snap ring pliers that open to remove the ring and lift it off or gently grab it with a pair of pliers being careful not to stretch the ring. If you do not remove this ring you will be unable to remove the pins from the hub (I know this Cuz this dummy tried to do it!) After you have removed the ring pull on the gear and the pins should slide out. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image2.gif Once you have removed the pins clean off any rust on the pins with a piece of scotch brite so that they are smooth. Generously apply grease to the pins. I used lithium based grease but any good water proof grease will do. Below you will see a picture showing the pins, Snap ring, scotch brite pad, and dust boot ring. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image3.gif Reinsert the pins into the bushings and replace snap ring. Once again be careful not to stretch out the ring as it needs to fit tightly to keep it in the groove. If you removed the dust boot also replace that and make sure it is properly seated. Apply grease to the splines on the hub. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image4.gif And also on the splines in the differential. It will squeeze out any extra grease then you lift the wheel back up and slide the hub splines into the differential splines but here is where most of the noise is coming from. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image5.gif It’s as easy as that. Like I said before refer to the other articles in this section to reinstall the rear wheel. Now Get out and Ride it like you stole it!!!
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Ok, so I ordered the level links from Diamond R and just got them. Now the 2 stupid questions. They cam with new bolts - should I use those or the existing bolts that hold the factory links from Yamaha? And what type of grease should I use to lube? White Lithium or axle / bearing grease? Thanks in advance..
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