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Showing results for tags 'gears'.
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i have an 07 rstd - had to replc. rear tire so i did all the normal rear wheel maint. - swapped inner/outer rear pads - pulled hub off and greased pins - greased outer diff. gears and matching wheel diff. gears - pull diff. out (from bike only - not from rear itself) greased the splines - drain diff. and replaced gear oil. reassembled all parts - put it on the ground, cranked it and tried putting into 1st - it wouldn't go, actually won't go into any gear. also when you roll the bike it creaks (diff.?). the only part of this job that caused a little trouble was putting the drive shaft back into the bike, once i got it line up i had to give the back of diff. a good smack with the palm of my hand to get it seated - the four flange acorn nuts were hand tightened (these were the last nuts to be tightened in reassembly) and everything seemed normal. hopefully i did not screw something up too badly...any ideas/suggestions or anyone else ever run into this problem??........HELP !!
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I know that the 1200's have bad second gears. In second gear if i romp on it it's starts to jump. If i ever go quick anymore i just skip over to third. But either way its a pain. My bikes only got 37000 on it. I know that it is fixable, but for how much... Thank you!
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Please help. I am completely stumped. There has got to be something that I am overlooking. Possible I have not been clear in relating the symptoms and thought if I reiterate them step by step fresh eyes might be able to catch something that I/we have over looked. Battery (Odysee PC680 replacement battery under warranty 4 months old) charged battery to fully charged acording to battery charger, on bench when charger was removed battery read 13.01 dcv by digital meter 12 hours later battery read 12.82 dcv 36 hrs later battery read 12.82 dcv 48 hrs later battery read 12.82 dcv reinstalled back into bike........@ 12.82 volt......... starter drags dragging starter quickly draws battery down to 12.4 to 12.6 volts put charger back on battery charger.... charger charges battery back up to 12.8 + volts within seconds less than one minute. Starter solenoid Battery hot at 12.82 dcv line side of solenoid 12.82 load side of solenoid with starter button pushed... 10.5 dcv to 11.00 dcv starter drags this would indicate high resistance across solenoid right But, with battery hot 12.82, using jumper cord from + battery terminal and checking dcv to opposite end of jumper cord shows 12.82.... touch opposite end of jumber cable directly to starter power lug...........starter drags Starter Powered starter on the bench.... it runs fine reinstalled on bike........ it drags Starter gears opened side covers gears look fine. remove starter gears...... starter clutch gear spins freely clockwise but, is stationary in counter clockwise direction. with the three smaller gears removed. hit start button with starter mounted but 3 gears removed starter runs fine put three gears back in an reset side cover........ starter drags with starter gears removed and rachett on flywheel bolt engine turns smoothly in both directions except for expected compression lobe of cylinders with spark plugs in. Meaning that engine turns easily but you can feel compression build and realease as valves open and close. All cables + and - have been upgraded and all connection points have been inspected, cleaned and checked. an additional ground from engine block to frame has been added. What am I missing? I am hoping fresh eyes on problem can ad some insight. -
i think i have figured out the source of the chirp in the primary gears on yamahas. this gets tecnical. my rstd had the chirp about as bad as it gets. both my v-star 1100 and my 1300 in particular, have a terrible amount of primary gear noise. i always attributed it to the straight cut gears which are the noisyest gear pattern there is. my wing has straight cut primary gears and they are totally quiet. my 1600 nomad has straight cut gears and has a barely audible hum. you have to consentrate to hear it. i always figured gearlash either to loose or to tight was the main cause. this will make a difference in the noise level, but i think the real cause is the curvature on the face of the gear teeth. yamaha has picked a pitch that just happens to make noise. the only real fix in my opinion is to go to their engineers and have them try different pitches on the surface of the gear teeth untill they hit the right combo. or go to honda and kawa. to see what pitch they use. just my opinion. i think the clutch basket change is just a bandaid. it tightens the clearance up to a sweet spot that may or may not last depending on tooth wear. think about this the tranny gears don't sound off, and they are all straight cut.
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SITTING BACK YESTERDAY THINKING ABOUT ALL THE MOTORCYCLES I'VE OWNED OVER THE YEARS..ALL THE WAY BACK TO THAT FIRST BIKE I OWNED..A 1971 HONDA 125CC WITH A DUAL TRANSMISSION..4 GEARS FOR THE DIRT AND 4 GEARS FOR THE ROAD..WHAT A FUN BIKE...CLEANING UP THE CHROME FENDERS AFTER RIDING IN THE MUD ALL AFTERNOON THEN PICKING UP MY HONEY AND GOING TO THE DAIRY FOR A MILK SHAKE....COOL AT 17...YEAH..WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST BIKE?....
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Here's the background. 1999 RSV 2nd gen, 115.000 miles. Orginal clutch. I was going up a mountain, lost 5th gear, downshifted to 4th, lost it, lost all gears by the top of the mountain. Was able to get bike in neutral. Seemed to still shift. Replaced the clutch housing, boss, gears. Started in neutral and put in first gear (as far as I know). Released the clutch to see if bike would go forward. Surged like it was in fifth gear and died. Now clutch lever is locked and will not pull in and can't shift gears. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Well this last weekend I got out my MRSV and went down to see my sister in Eugene, OR. Since I live in Vancouver, WA. it was a nice long ride. This was finally the chance to really check out my new vmax gears and my WarmGear ensamble. Going down their I had a brutal head wind, and just a few places of misting rain. I thought that was a great test for my heated gear, because I stayed nice and toasty all the way down. On the way back It rained like Noah was coming back, but at least I had a nice tail wind. The heated gear worked great both ways. It really kept me warm and comfortable. Let me tell you about those fantastic gears. I absolutely love my new gears. I feel that this is really the way this bike should have come from the factory. I had to always downshift when passing on the highway before the gears, but now, just a quick twist of the throttle and you are flat gettin around vehicles. It's almost scarey what the new gears do for the bike. Any way I just thought that some of you folks would like to know about the rear gears and heated WarmGear.
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Hello everybody, I really want to put the Vmax gearing in my RSV... We do alot of 2up riding and tow a trailer... I feel the deeper gears will help alot. I just purchased a RSV Final drive on Ebay and last night I found some Vmax gears. Has anybody here actually installed Vmax gears in a RSV housing? I know there is a site that will do it... But I'm a do it yourself kind of guy. Any tips or info would be great. Service manual has also been ordered. all my parts should be here in a few days. I was thinking of doing a write up on the install. Thank you Reaney in NH
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Well I got my new Vmax rear end this last weekend, and installed it as well as a new clutch. What a difference the new rear gears make. I need to adjust the speed O healer, which I will do this next weekend, but WOW, I really like the mid range power difference from the old rear end gears. While I had the tire off, I went ahead and lubed up the hub according to the write up on the tech link. I don't know if the new rear gears or the lube made the difference but I don't have the awful wine any more. I have the more powerful stator comming this next week, and I will install it later this month. I talked to the guys at Blue Ridge sport max and they really seem to be some very nice folks. I paid the whole $600.00 for the new gears and sent them back my old rear end. The day he got my old rear gears he refunded me my $300.00 core charge. With the new stator I am planning on getting the full ensamble from warm gear. I already have the gloves, I just need the rest of the gear.
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Friends got a 92 Virago 1100. It has the updated starter assembly but still has a problem. It does not have the 2 spring clips that fail regularly. The starter intermediate gears that are on a spiral between the flywheel and motor do not return to the home position. These gears are on a pivot with a spring. Please tell me it is not the starter clutch that it $227!!! Any suggestions?
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About six weeks ago I took a test ride on a 2006 RSTD that had about 6k miles on it. That same day I rode a Victory Vision and a Triumph Rocket III Touring. One thing that I noticed was how the shifting on the Victory and the Triumph felt like the H-D's I've had... a hard clunk in first and even going into the higher gears. The RSTD felt smoother, like my Road Star. I bought a 2007 Venture 2 weeks ago and the tranny feels more like the other bikes than the RSTD. In fact, my wife thought there was a problem with the bike because of the hard "clunks" every time I change gears. Is this normal for the Venture and not the RSTD or is it normal for both and I just happened to ride an odd one? I also posted this in another forum hoping to get enough replies to know if this is normal on this bike. Thanks!
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Hi Everyone..., I have always shiffed down through the gears when stopping. I was looking through my manual over the weekend and I'm sure I read that you down shift through the gears all the same time just before comming to a stop. What do everyone else do? Newfie Bill Paradise, NL 99 RSV
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Have an '89 with two small cracks on the L faring just at the top by the stereo assembly. What is the best way to repair, they are about 1/2 inch long from the top around the trim edge and just under.?? Also, has anyone ever put higher gears in their Venture? I get 40 MPG average under 60 MPH on the back roads where I don't get on and off the throttle alot, but on the interstates, well that is a different story - my MPG is about 31 - 36 depending on the head winds. Have had Goldwings that got 48 on the back roads, and 45 on interstate. This Venture runs about 1000 -1,200 tighter than a Wing, need to put in higher gears or a sixth one!?!?!?!?!?!?! Thanks for any help or guidance! Caz -
I have a 1983 Venture Royal that jumps out of second gear and has a loud rattle noise coming from the lower engine when the bike is tipped to the left. It runs fine otherwise and shifts through all of the other gears with no problem. I plan on disassembling the transmission in order to replace the 2 gears that have the meshing dogs for 2nd gear. Does anyone know which gears they are? I have looked at the Yamaha Fiche and can't determine which gears I need. I want to be sure they are available before I disassemble. Any ideas on the noise? Thanks
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Had Buds pipes put on . My 2006 RSV Should it ( Back fire? When slowing down going though the gears.
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Lately I've been noticing sort of a glitch in the throttle when slowly cruising in low gears... 1st or 2nd..., without a load on the motor. The throttle is either on or off, and it makes it kinda tuff to maintain a steady speed. As long as I keep a load on the motor in say 3rd or 4th it responds fine, except the R's are way down. When in the lower gears if I let off on the throttle just a bit it's like I've rolled it completely off. It's getting herky jerky in street traffic.... The bike idles fine, and excellerates fine, and seems to have plenty of power, but the H&J is getting to be anoying. Out on the highway it seems to work fine at say 4200 in 5th. I also noticed a big drop in my fuel milage. Got 50+ during the ride to VWIII, but 38mpg to Fort Collins and up to now.. Any thoughts???? -
I am doing tranny repair as you have done.I have copied all the foroms that you,fixit3546 and freebird have wrote......My dumb question is the crankcase? Is there a gasket their or do i need to you'se gasket sealer?????I have done the gears and ready to put back together. By the way the foroms had great info!!!!!!!!!!Thanks Denny -
hi all, new to this site, presently ride an 02 suzuki volusia which i absolutely love but an looking at a nwe 07 venture blue/black and their price is 13,900.00 I think that's a good deal in that that is quite a drop from 17,300.00. Anyway have sat on one with wife on it and we both fell in love with it, I would like your thoughts on the weight balance in town riding and relibility of the bike it. also being it is a 1300cc how is the power in low gears as well as on the highway passing high gears. thanks and you all have a great website. brian d.
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I named my bike cricket, just messing around and now I think I will keep the name! Again I will say I really love and enjoy this venture, I do not mind the so called whine at the higher speeds, or at the top of the power band in lower gears, just means no HD will ever catch me!! To me it is just not an issue, I have owned other bikes and several of them had this same gear whine. But I have not been lazy, I have read everything I can find on this situation, both here on this site, have called and talked to an old friend who is most likely the best mechanic ever, been to the library, looked up cut gears, helical gears, beveled gears, meshed and partial meshed, even obtained parts breakdowns of the venture tranny, details and so on. So some of you have tried a different clutch basket-why do they call it a basket anyway? Just the main gear..........? And it has never really cured anything, just changed the harmonics to a different rpm, to the higher range in effect. Some of you have changed the rear drive unit......again this caused you to move your rpms up. Puts you in the peak of the power band for the particular gear, especially the higher gears. Nothing has seemed to work. Now a hint, and my question. And I and all of us may need some help from someone who knows a whole lot about oil, its effects and properties. I found out at the library they used to use and still do use forged and cut gears in machines such as lathes, and sawmill wheels. They use 80 to 90 weight gear oil in the gear box, runs quiet as a snowflake. I own a wood turning lathe, I took the heavy oil out of the gear box and poured kerosene in and turned it on ,rinsed it out. Filled the gearbox with some old 10W30, put the drive belt on the high gear, presto, I had gear whine!!!! Now , all vehicle makers, cars, bikes, snowmobiles, all of them recommend somewhat light and variable viscosity oils, as whomever buys the vehicle may live in Alaska at minus 10 degrees or worse, to South Carolina at 107 degrees in the shade sometimes. So this multi-viscosity oil solves all and answers all, no more discussion about oils, one solution for all. Or is it?? Lighter viscosity oils unless I am wrong are for the north, they coat the motor better at low start up temps. Usn's in the south have runny oil all the time, a cold day around here is 28 degrees. So if a higher viscosity oil will keep my wood lathe quiet, would it not quiet down cut gears in any mechanical gearbox? Any oil research pros out there? Can we use a higher viscosity oil, a slightly heavier one? Warm the bike up for a few minutes prior to putting a load on the motor(all us old Harley riders did that-if we didn't the head gasket would blow by the time we got to the mailbox):rotf:. For what it is worth this is my common sense question, can we use a higher viscosity oil and not harm the engine, I already know it will not harm the transmission, and even heavy oil when warm will reach the rings........but there is the oil pump, a lot of variables, anyone want to take this challenge? It makes a lot of sense to me, my experiment with the lathe was promising. Just how heavy an oil can one use in the Bike? Kit
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