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Showing results for tags 'front'.
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I removed the front cowling/fairing that goes over the headlight. Three of the plastic mounting points have completely broken off (the piece with the metal screw clips on them. Does anyone have a fix for this?? -
I just found out that I have no brake light on my 85 vr when I pull the front brake. I am presuming this is the switch shot in the lever, has anyone done this and what is involved in replacing it? I would like to save a buck or two if I can do it myself. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Brian -
Since Outcast was stuck in SC with a front wheel bearing gone bad, it got me to thinking. Wouldn't it be a good thing if we could do some research and see if parts could be found that would work in a pinch such as this. I'm thinking most bearings could be cross matched with something from the automotive line or even heavy equipment house. Is there some way to use the oem part number and find out what the actual dimensions are for a given bearing, such as the front wheel bearing without having to dismantle someone's bike to measure the bearing? I think this could turn out to be a good thing if someone is broke down far from home on the weekend. As was stated in the other post, most metric dealers are closed on Sunday and Monday. What if a bearing could be had from, God forbid I would even suggest this, a Harley dealer! A lot of them are open on Sundays.
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Once I finally get done upgrading my rear brakes on my Hannigan, I will be looking at possible improvements with my front brakes, so I thought I'd check to see if anybody has ever gone to a better caliper, better rotors, etc. I do have SS lines to install but I'm looking for more... -
I had a tire installed on the front wheel while on vacation last year. The dealer installed a Dunlop 404 rear tire on the front. I did not notice that it was a rear tire untill this past weekend. It is my understanding that a rear tire will work on the front but needs to be mounted with the rotation arrow backwards. My question is can I remove the wheel and turn the wheel and tire around so that the tire rotation is correct. Or does the wheel only mounts one way. Thanks for the help.
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I bought a set of roto covers for my MKII a while back on craigslist, but it did not include the spacer. I thought that my machniest buddy could make a new spacer for me using the origional as a sample. I want to not shorten the OEM spacer incase I want to remover the roto covers for some reason, then I'll need the origional spacer. He can make one out of aluminum. My question is, would making one out of aluminum be ok. I would think it would be but I thougth I better ask. Another question: I need to remove the front axle, so I can get the spacer out. I see the axle nut head. But I also see an allen head screw the goes in at a 90 degree to the axle. Do I need to remove the allen head screw before I attempt to remove the front axle? Or maybe better yet, does anyone have an extra front axle spacer opposite side of the speedometer. for a 91 MKII? It be a lot easier to machine shorten a spare OEM spacer the width of 2 roto plates than to make a new complete spacer. -
At the risk of redundancy with many other threads, I thought I would recap all of my experiences with front tire choice on the RSV. I'll try to keep this fairly short, but some of you may know how hard that is for me! I did a lot of testing on various tires (both sizes and brands), and I was one of the very vocal members a couple of years ago who posted so much about how great an improvement the narrower MT90 or 130/90 front tire was over the stock 150/80 size. Since then I have amassed even more comparisons and have come to these conclusions: The stock Brickstone 150/80 front tire is the WORST possible tire you can use if you have not raised the rear with shorter suspension links. ANY other front tire will be a vast improvement. Raising the rear of the bike 1" with the Leveling Links will make even the stock Brickstone 150/80 front tire handle like any good tire. Poor handling is not just related to the front tire size. In fact, any rear tire that begins to flatten out in the center from too much straight line riding will make this bike track grooves and jump around on surface irregularities. And the stock Brickstone rear tire is the ABSOLUTE WORST for this!Since my initial testing with my 05 RSV which came with the ****ty stock Brickstone tires, I have been able to compare a stock 07 RSV that came with Dunlop tires, and a stock 07 RSV that had Avon tires in stock size. In both of those cases, the bike felt agile and nimble with none of the horrid slow speed heaviness of an RSV with stock Brickstone tires. Since most RSVs come with Bricksones, but a few lucky ones get Dunlop 404s, I think this explains why so many new owners complain about the heaviness and slow speed handling, while a few new owners say "Huh? Feels fine to me." Bottom line, although I think the MT90 front tire is a good tire for the RSV, I no longer recommend it at all. IMHO, if you have raised the rear of the bike with the Leveling Links, the narrower front tire makes the bike a bit squirrelly as the rear tire begins to wear flat. And even with the stock suspension links, I have found that any other good tire in stock size on the front makes the RSV handle just fine at slow speed (note that this EXCLUDES the Brickstone front tire). So, for those of you who have not already made up your mind on tire brand and size, here is what I recommend: If you have Brickstones, get rid of them immediately. They make the RSV and unpleasant bike to ride, and sometimes a dangerous bike to ride. The only exception to this is if you raise the rear with Leveling links, then the FRONT Brickstone will handle fine and last long time. Decide on any other brand of tire and buy stock sizes, front and rear. I personally will never trust my life to Metzeler tires on this bike (see plenty of other posts on this subject), but even if Metzeler is your brand of choice, the bike will handle just fine with stock tire sizes until the rear tire begins to come apart on you. Sorry, I just could not avoid that bit of editorializing!Good luck and ride safe, Goose
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Hi riders! My 03 2nd gen is giving me trouble. The front end is a mess. It feels sloppy and unsettling all the time. In a lean, the front end is wobbly. I put it on a lift, grabbed the front wheel, don't feel any head bearing clicking. I don't get any bounce back when I send the bars to one side or the other. The tire is perfect, no cupping, the wheel is rotating as it should be. Back on the ground, and facing down hill, I let it roll a bit, hit the front brake and I can feel a click. I don't feel the forks bounce unusually. I have a new Works rear shock which is fine. I've got 21k on it. Never did either the bearings of fork work. Anyone want to come to long island and help replace it all ? Any ideas.
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Hey Guys: I would like to replace both my rear turn signals as well my front ones with LED's. I don't want to loose the 4 way flasher, what can I do to get this all together? Sponge Bob It's a dry heat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Does the front wheel have to be removed to lower the front end (2008 venture)?
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What is the the threaded hole behind the front left fin cyclinder cover. I noticed a little bit of antifreeze pooling around that area and i just wanted to know what is was. I may have just dropped a little splash of it. But would still like to know what that is there. The back side of the fake find has a solid little circle piece that goes over it. -
I just put a Roadliner/Stratoliner 18" front wheel on my Venture. It looks awesome, and the low profile radial tire handles like a dream- rock solid and glued to the road. Handling response is much quicker. The rotors are also an upgrade, because they are full floaters. It is a perfect match, same size rotors and axle, bolted right up, din't have to change anything. I got the wheel tire and rotors off of ebay for $240 plus $50 shipping.
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guys, i've been gleaning info off of alot of you trying to find answer to my handling woes... read about how tires help and so on. i keep trying but i'm not there yet. when i cross an uneven road surface the bike feels wiggly. i feel it basically at all speeds. its like the bike is hinged in the middle. i have the super fork brace on and a new shinko tour master up front, i'll be putting a new rear shinko on this week. maybe that will help. i've tried all tire pressures and it helps a touch but not enough. i'm convinced something is wrong with the front forks..i've looked for cracks in the frame and don't see any. i've put over 2k miles on the bike and love it but this wiggle is killing me and if i could get this resolved then the bike would be perfect. i know the bike went down at some point. the tell tale highway bar crack in the plastic elbow, the crack in the right fairing and so on. i've noticed the handle bars are cocked to the left a touch and it is likely because of bike going down, i noticed that when i removed the front tire that i thought the right front fork was twisted a touch thus making the bolt hard to remove and reinstall since the alignment was off a bit. i also hear some clunking or some kind of looseness in the fork tubes when i bounce the front end gently when its on the rear stand, but when i grab and twist everything it all feels solid. if i have to put a whole new front end on there, i will. i can't trust the way this thing feels although it does feel pretty good in the curves, but to switch lanes is like gambling with your life. i don't know if anybody is close to me that can coach me or give me some counsel or if there is a tech day that i can get some experts to take a look. any suggestions?? -
When I look at the turn signals on the front, they stay lit all the time and flash for turn signals, the rear only flash for turn signals. Looking to add more light to the back, has anyone tried mounting front turn bodies on the rear and wired them as running and turn signals? -
I just got my new hand pump from Harley. NICE!! Best $60 ever! I have a 85 Venture, its the standard without the fancy compresser and radio:) What is everybody running the front and rear pressure at? I'm 250lbs and I usually carry 20lbs of "EXTRAS" in my luggaage. Looking for the best ride. I put 12lbs in the front and 12lbs in the rear. Felt soft?? Ideas??
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Bike was feeling kind of sluggish and sloppy in turns so I check the tire pressure. Rear had 45 PSI and the front had 35PSI. I am running Dunlop Elite 3 front and rear. I am about 320 pounds. So a lot of weight on the tires. I know the front sidewall said 41 max. I ran it up to 40 and it is a whole different feel. Almost like it is to much and the front tire feel like a teeter totter on a point now instead of a rounded tire. So my question is with my weight, what should I be running in the tires if the sidewall says 41 max. And this is unloaded and just my body weight and the bikes weight. Thanks
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Hey all, I have a 06 RSV. Everyone is talking about upgrading the brakes to R1. What year or type of R1? Am I doing just the front or also the rear? What about the other components, master cylinder, lines, etc. Any input whould be great. Thanks
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Ok, when I purchased my 2003 RSV about 6 weeks ago, the guy stated the previous owner was a female. True or not IDK. The bike came with a Corbin seat, that the guy claims he doesn't know if it fits, but came with the bike so OK. A few days ago I removed the seats and installed the Corbin. Here's the dilemma ( with pics to help): the rear portion of the seat seems too short. The little stem that should slide under the back seat post doesn't seem to reach. I was able to bolt down the front and it didn't seem to move at all. I just don't know enough about the bike or Corbin seats to see if it indeed is the proper seat. The sticker on the back says Corbin VENT-DT and the number next to the barcode reads 2303449. Can anyone help to determine if what I have indeed fits, or I have a $475 paperweight. It looks as if the end of the back seat is a bit further forward or "shorter" then original seat, but I would say not by very much. I am also showing some of the front, to see if thats the normal position. Any and all advice is appreciated. *** I can not seem to add more then one pic*** grrrrrrr -
I doubt many put their bikes on the lift backward, but it is quite handy when removing the front wheel. They drummed this into us in school (with lots of practice because it ain't easy) and I always put bikes on backward when working on the front wheel or forks. In addition to my new starter the 89 is getting steering bearings. It's on a Harbor Freight lift backward for the work. The wheel, forks, steering head, instrument cluster, headlight, windshield and top panels are removed. The fairings are still on. The handle bars are resting on the fairing stay above the headlight opening. There are two helmets in the trunk and some junk in the bags. When I lowered the lift I found that in that position the center of gravity is forward of the front legs and the motorcycle and lift tipped down (at the rear of the bike). Fortunately my weight on the hydraulic pedal kept it on the floor until it was down and my foot came off so it only dropped about 3". Raising the lift back up required a lift on the passenger grab rail to keep the motorcycle from falling over backward. At about 1/4 height the center of gravity was back to where the lift stayed on the floor. I wanted to pass this along because if I'd stopped going down at 1/4 or pulled the steering head below that level it would have done a back flip. Don't want anyone to find this issue the painful way.
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OK guys, I need some expert electrical help. For Christmas I bought LED turn signal inserts from Custome Dynamics. I already had the Run-Stop-turn from Kuryakyn for the back so the rear hooked up and worked perfectly. The front are another story. I also bought the load equalizer and diode kit from Kuryakyn. Both installed easily. Here are the problems. The turn indicator is always on when I connect the diode to ground acording to the instructions. The front lights come on as running lights but they go out and dont flash when I select either turn. At the same time the rear flash fast. If I remove the diode and reinstall the original front bulbs the rear LED lights flash normal. I read and followed all the instructions (maybe my first problem). Is ther something I'm missing or is my wiring different? Any help or possible solutions will be entertained.
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Well the checks of my Trike have revealed its first problem. When I picked it up, I was told that a small dent was discovered in the front fender which was believed to be caused by the light-bar falling on the fender during a performed repair. After driving it home I discovered that the small dent is now a crease in what was my beautiful fender. Sooooooo... Anyone who has had their Venture converted with a Hannigan kit & EZSteer - Have you had problems with your light-bar hitting the front fender on hard bumps due to reduced clearance between the bar & the fender? I have a call into the previous owner... Before I attempt to fix the problem, I need to know if the reduced clearance is from the EZSteer install or some lowering adjustment performed. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. Anyone know where I can get fender damage repaired like I have? Thanks as always - here are some photos. show two dents & ridge mark across fender shows small clearance problem
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Well yesterday I was finally feeling well enough to finish putting the R1 brake calipers with new pads on the 93 trike. At first it felt marginally better but not by much. I took it out for a test ride and after a few stops from varying speeds using the front brakes only (both sides) they starting getting better. By the time I got back home after about 20 miles I was able to cut down the stopping distance using front and rear by almost half of what it had before the change. Now as soon as I can save a few more dollars I will put the SS brake lines on, then see how much it improves. So far I only have $134.00 invested in this project.
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9:30am... Houston I-45 heavy traffic moving about 60mph... I'm in left lane... cars start to slow down and so did I... 3 car lengths space in front of me... slowing, not abrupt stopping, just slowing... now about 45 - 50mph... I hear screeching tires... look in rearview mirror and see closest vehicle about 4 car lengths behind me and also moving slow... still hear screeching... Wham! Hit in right rear corner by a car in center lane. http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_4267_zps2030827b.jpg This being the perfect Pit Maneuver, I spin counter clockwise and smash into the center concrete barrier... airbag deploys... glasses gone... continue spinning counter clockwise... cross center lane and broad side an 18 wheeler that was still moving... as I see the center of the trailer rapidly approaching all I can think is 'This is gonna hurt!'... I hit hard just in front of the rear wheels and the force of his movement continues to spin me counter clock wise as the fender of his rear wheels slices through my front right fender... http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_4263_zps553176f6.jpg On my journey back across the center lane toward the concrete barrier for the second time it was deja vu... Hit the barrier hard again and came to rest facing the wrong direction... http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_0054_zpsfc0dc7d5.jpg http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_0053_zpsd36758d5.jpg EMS extricated me from the cab with neck brace and backboard... 6 hours later I walked out of the hospital with only arm abrasions from the air bag, sore muscles and slightly tweaked lower back. This little Toyota truck took good care of me. Interior cab was undamaged. Nothing crunched or folded into the passengers area. This was after 3 very hard front end hits. Now where's that rum....
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I need to purchase a front brake switch for an 86-93 VR (with cruise)...any sellers? Thanks Dave -
So I've read a plethora of resources and online pages/blogs about performing a swap of the front end on my 77, but I can't seem to figure out one thing. There seems to be a variety of front ends that can be used for a conversion to a beefier/newer setup like from the Ninja's, but I'm curious if all of these require additional work due to steering stem length... Are there any compatible front ends that have the right bearings and stem length to basically be a "plug and play" setup? I'd like to do the conversion, but I'm looking for the easiest route possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Most of the online resources I checked or was directed to have loads of "lists" that cover this, but don't seem to go in any detail as to whether they are actual direct fit or need additional mods.
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