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Showing results for tags 'front'.
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I need some help finding long distance touring tires. My Yamaha dealership swamped me into a Vons claiming they would rival Michelin long-distance tires. The michelins claimed double the usual expected mileage. That would equate to 40,000 k. I have since learned my Yamaha dealer may have totally lied about the capability of the Avon tires. Not wishing to rely on them for advice I'm asking here. The Dunlop Elite 4 tires seem to claim amazing range. What is my best option and does anyone know where I could get them installed in short notice.
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I just got Commander2 on rear last year-great tire. NOW I need front tire. Michelin does not have a front available in our size. I have had bad luck with Avon VenomX recently. Thusly, that's not an option. I see the Dunlop E3 has the highest load capacity for 120/90-18 like the Avon had. Can anyone say if the E3 gives good turn in, and stability ? I ride back roads dragging the saddlebag trim WFO following my sport bike friends. ALSO any other tire options ? -
I would like to inquire of those who have removed the front lower fairing leg on what they feel was the benefit and or what they regret or miss? I would also like to ask if anyone has blocked the front fairings air vent and again what they regret or miss? The purpose of these question is that I am still building my 85 project and am considering using the air intakes for the lower legs to mount a set of auxillary running lights in. In this forums opinion the pros and cons? I ask as I want to see if anyone else will come up with something I have not thought of or overlooked. I am considering installing a set of lamp in the least obtrusive location. Thanks in advance to all who reply and share their thoughts and opinions.
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As part of my changeover to the MKII forks on 83, I am wanting to slide the forks up a little in the tripple tree. When I changed my springs to Progressives, even though I did not use any spacers on the springs, it raised the front of my bike up some. I will be transfering these springs and won't be using any air and wondering if any others had done this and what did they do about the holes where the air goes into the tube. I suspect the holes will be up under the clamped area, but feel they would still need some type of seal to keeping from leaking shock fluid. RandyA -
So I did it this weekend. put the E3 on. I have to say its wonderful! having changed the rear tire about 1K miles ago doing the leveling links and now the front tire. I just don't understand why Yamaha didn't do this right from the start! the difference in handling and "FEEL" of the bike are just incredible. If these bikes would have come with better tires and the suspension set correctly from the factory there wouldn't be as many used bikes out there, and a lot less in accidents. Now if riding the bike made my gut shrink it would be perfect! LOL
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Ok, when I purchased my 2003 RSV about 6 weeks ago, the guy stated the previous owner was a female. True or not IDK. The bike came with a Corbin seat, that the guy claims he doesn't know if it fits, but came with the bike so OK. A few days ago I removed the seats and installed the Corbin. Here's the dilemma ( with pics to help): the rear portion of the seat seems too short. The little stem that should slide under the back seat post doesn't seem to reach. I was able to bolt down the front and it didn't seem to move at all. I just don't know enough about the bike or Corbin seats to see if it indeed is the proper seat. The sticker on the back says Corbin VENT-DT and the number next to the barcode reads 2303449. Can anyone help to determine if what I have indeed fits, or I have a $475 paperweight. It looks as if the end of the back seat is a bit further forward or "shorter" then original seat, but I would say not by very much. I am also showing some of the front, to see if thats the normal position. Any and all advice is appreciated. *** I can not seem to add more then one pic*** grrrrrrr -
I doubt many put their bikes on the lift backward, but it is quite handy when removing the front wheel. They drummed this into us in school (with lots of practice because it ain't easy) and I always put bikes on backward when working on the front wheel or forks. In addition to my new starter the 89 is getting steering bearings. It's on a Harbor Freight lift backward for the work. The wheel, forks, steering head, instrument cluster, headlight, windshield and top panels are removed. The fairings are still on. The handle bars are resting on the fairing stay above the headlight opening. There are two helmets in the trunk and some junk in the bags. When I lowered the lift I found that in that position the center of gravity is forward of the front legs and the motorcycle and lift tipped down (at the rear of the bike). Fortunately my weight on the hydraulic pedal kept it on the floor until it was down and my foot came off so it only dropped about 3". Raising the lift back up required a lift on the passenger grab rail to keep the motorcycle from falling over backward. At about 1/4 height the center of gravity was back to where the lift stayed on the floor. I wanted to pass this along because if I'd stopped going down at 1/4 or pulled the steering head below that level it would have done a back flip. Don't want anyone to find this issue the painful way.
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Hey all, I have a 06 RSV. Everyone is talking about upgrading the brakes to R1. What year or type of R1? Am I doing just the front or also the rear? What about the other components, master cylinder, lines, etc. Any input whould be great. Thanks
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OK guys, I need some expert electrical help. For Christmas I bought LED turn signal inserts from Custome Dynamics. I already had the Run-Stop-turn from Kuryakyn for the back so the rear hooked up and worked perfectly. The front are another story. I also bought the load equalizer and diode kit from Kuryakyn. Both installed easily. Here are the problems. The turn indicator is always on when I connect the diode to ground acording to the instructions. The front lights come on as running lights but they go out and dont flash when I select either turn. At the same time the rear flash fast. If I remove the diode and reinstall the original front bulbs the rear LED lights flash normal. I read and followed all the instructions (maybe my first problem). Is ther something I'm missing or is my wiring different? Any help or possible solutions will be entertained.
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I just got my new hand pump from Harley. NICE!! Best $60 ever! I have a 85 Venture, its the standard without the fancy compresser and radio:) What is everybody running the front and rear pressure at? I'm 250lbs and I usually carry 20lbs of "EXTRAS" in my luggaage. Looking for the best ride. I put 12lbs in the front and 12lbs in the rear. Felt soft?? Ideas??
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Well yesterday I was finally feeling well enough to finish putting the R1 brake calipers with new pads on the 93 trike. At first it felt marginally better but not by much. I took it out for a test ride and after a few stops from varying speeds using the front brakes only (both sides) they starting getting better. By the time I got back home after about 20 miles I was able to cut down the stopping distance using front and rear by almost half of what it had before the change. Now as soon as I can save a few more dollars I will put the SS brake lines on, then see how much it improves. So far I only have $134.00 invested in this project.
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9:30am... Houston I-45 heavy traffic moving about 60mph... I'm in left lane... cars start to slow down and so did I... 3 car lengths space in front of me... slowing, not abrupt stopping, just slowing... now about 45 - 50mph... I hear screeching tires... look in rearview mirror and see closest vehicle about 4 car lengths behind me and also moving slow... still hear screeching... Wham! Hit in right rear corner by a car in center lane. http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_4267_zps2030827b.jpg This being the perfect Pit Maneuver, I spin counter clockwise and smash into the center concrete barrier... airbag deploys... glasses gone... continue spinning counter clockwise... cross center lane and broad side an 18 wheeler that was still moving... as I see the center of the trailer rapidly approaching all I can think is 'This is gonna hurt!'... I hit hard just in front of the rear wheels and the force of his movement continues to spin me counter clock wise as the fender of his rear wheels slices through my front right fender... http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_4263_zps553176f6.jpg On my journey back across the center lane toward the concrete barrier for the second time it was deja vu... Hit the barrier hard again and came to rest facing the wrong direction... http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_0054_zpsfc0dc7d5.jpg http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/IMG_0053_zpsd36758d5.jpg EMS extricated me from the cab with neck brace and backboard... 6 hours later I walked out of the hospital with only arm abrasions from the air bag, sore muscles and slightly tweaked lower back. This little Toyota truck took good care of me. Interior cab was undamaged. Nothing crunched or folded into the passengers area. This was after 3 very hard front end hits. Now where's that rum....
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I need to purchase a front brake switch for an 86-93 VR (with cruise)...any sellers? Thanks Dave -
So I've read a plethora of resources and online pages/blogs about performing a swap of the front end on my 77, but I can't seem to figure out one thing. There seems to be a variety of front ends that can be used for a conversion to a beefier/newer setup like from the Ninja's, but I'm curious if all of these require additional work due to steering stem length... Are there any compatible front ends that have the right bearings and stem length to basically be a "plug and play" setup? I'd like to do the conversion, but I'm looking for the easiest route possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Most of the online resources I checked or was directed to have loads of "lists" that cover this, but don't seem to go in any detail as to whether they are actual direct fit or need additional mods.
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Bike was feeling kind of sluggish and sloppy in turns so I check the tire pressure. Rear had 45 PSI and the front had 35PSI. I am running Dunlop Elite 3 front and rear. I am about 320 pounds. So a lot of weight on the tires. I know the front sidewall said 41 max. I ran it up to 40 and it is a whole different feel. Almost like it is to much and the front tire feel like a teeter totter on a point now instead of a rounded tire. So my question is with my weight, what should I be running in the tires if the sidewall says 41 max. And this is unloaded and just my body weight and the bikes weight. Thanks
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Well the checks of my Trike have revealed its first problem. When I picked it up, I was told that a small dent was discovered in the front fender which was believed to be caused by the light-bar falling on the fender during a performed repair. After driving it home I discovered that the small dent is now a crease in what was my beautiful fender. Sooooooo... Anyone who has had their Venture converted with a Hannigan kit & EZSteer - Have you had problems with your light-bar hitting the front fender on hard bumps due to reduced clearance between the bar & the fender? I have a call into the previous owner... Before I attempt to fix the problem, I need to know if the reduced clearance is from the EZSteer install or some lowering adjustment performed. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. Anyone know where I can get fender damage repaired like I have? Thanks as always - here are some photos. show two dents & ridge mark across fender shows small clearance problem
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I came into a set of JM headsets today and have a question. When I plug them in and switch them on the front works fine, but the rear h/s does not work and there is still sound coming from the REAR speakers, but at the same volume as the front headset. There is a mic mute installed, and the p.o. did have all the audio stuff apart when he changed out the original trunk that was cracked. I've tried everything that I can remember from my other Venture and nothing works or changes. Both headsets work in the front too, so I know they are both good. HELP!!
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Have made a little progress this week with winter project. Made a stand that will be used to temporarily support frame during initial motor fitment and suspension work. It's not pretty but will only be used for this phase.. I have an old 1200 block setting in frame at this point to see where major obstacles will be in putting a 1st gen/VMax motor into the RSV frame. Motor fits the six mount points that the 1st gen uses in the 2003 RSV frame. The front head brackets will not be used. I have a set of VMax heads for this project that will be on a modified 1300 block. I don't think a v-boost system will be possible with this setup due to the use of the RSV fuel tank & air intake components. I don't think the taller V-boost setup has a chance of fitting. Considering another option to use in place of the V-boost for that snap at about 6k rpm's. Rear exhaust down tubes look to be usable with very little modification. Front down tubes are going to be a challenge. The front motor mount bracket will need some modification to allow the front tubes to pass bracket. Seriously considering using a 1st gen MKII front end I have intsead of the RSV front end. The RSV unit is massive compared to a 1st gen unit. I don't have the wheels for the RSV, so I want to use a set of VMax wheels on this. The fork spread is over an inch wider than the 1st gen which would make the use of the VMax wheels improbable. I have tried the 1st gen triple tree in the RSV frame and it matches what is needed. I like the styling of the RSV fender more than the 1st gen, but It may not get used. I think I can mount the RSV handlebars & controls on the 1st gen upper tree bracket with minimal modification. I will have to set tank on frame to see if there will be a clearance issue with this change. Bike will be a single seater with no fairing, saddle bags etc. Minimal instrumentation, no radio. Looking at a VMax instrument pod & speedometer. Have a VMax final drive for it. Gary
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I recently changed out my rear pads. Brakes have been completly flushed and operate fine. But when I apply the rear brake I hear a sort of clicking sound I never heard before. Almost sounds like crickets or something. Dont hear it if you only apply front brakes. I was thinking maybe it was because now there is more pad to cross over the vent holes in disk. But why wouldnt you hear it from the front.
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Are all MK II front calipers the same from 86-93? I finally got my front brakes hooked up to work together, but It still gives me the same amount of braking, virtually none, I am thinking the right one is bad, when I pump them up to bleed them I get good flow from the left when I bleed it, but when I bleed the right one after pumping them up again, just dribbles from the bleeder. If I let it sit for a while the brake lever has no pressure at all, have to pump them up to get any feel but the lever still goes to the handlebar. I am thinking the right caliper is leaking down, but I cant find any leaks anywhere. I have someone offering calipers from an 86 or 87 but I want to make sure they are the same before I get them. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey guys, What's the best way to jack up a First Gen? Help me out. I want to check the front wheel bearings, steering bearings, rear bearings, swing arm and shock. You know... all that stuff that could cause major mishaps at interstate speeds. So I need to get the front and back off of the ground. Is there an easy way to get it up on to the center stand? That will help for some stuff. I can't seem to do it even with help. I have a Harbor Freight M/C Jack, willingness and ingenuity!
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So when I load up a heavy passenger I can't go into any kind of lean angle without draggin parts on the ground.. Also bottom out on bad bumps.. I set the class to High and still have the problem. So I'm thinking the old springs are getting weak. I have a set of progressives for the front that i'm putting in over the winter. Does anyone know if rear progressive springs are still available and where to get them?
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I think this has been asked before but I don't find it. Is there a car tire that can be used on the front wheel of the 2nd gen Venture? If so would that be a good choice? It seems to me that it would be okay for a trike to use a CT on the front.
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I am looking for some passenger arm rest for the 93 trike. Charlene says she doesnt need them, but I think she would be much more comfortable with them. Does anyone still make them or maybe someone here has set they no longer need. I am just about finished making the changes to the trike since I bought it. Yesterday I replaced the old glass tube fuse block with one from radio shack and using Skydoc's instructions it was easy, the only difference between his and radio shacks is 5 fuses vs 6 on Skydocs. I also did the battery fluid level light bypass. The only thing left to address is the front brakes. They have been delinked when triked, but only one disk up front is working. The Vmax mod is next for the brakes. Later when I have the funds I will be doing the front brake mods to make them more reliable and better.
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I installed a set of polk 401s and Alpine ktp-445u amp and it sounds alot better. I know some people installed these components and didn't have very good results.I noticed if you follow the shop manuals wiring diagram its wrong . It has the left front speaker polarities reversed which of course would cause poor sound. Just thought some people would be interested .
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