Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'fluid'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • vBCms Comments
  • General Discussion
    • Watering Hole
    • Welcome To Our New Members
    • Links to Classifieds, Craigslist, Ebay, Sales, Etc.
    • VentureRider Merchandise
    • Picture Folder
    • Videos
    • VR Polls
    • Jokes and Humor
    • Fun and Frivolous
    • Ladies Lair
    • Inspirational, Motivational, Prayer Requests, Etc.
    • In Memory Of
    • Paying it Forward
  • Tech Talk
    • GPS, Audio, Electronics
    • Safety and Education
    • Poor Man Tips and Fixes
    • General Tech Talk
    • Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
    • Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
    • Star Venture and Eluder Tech Talk ( '18 - Present)
    • Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
    • VMax Conversions
    • Honda Goldwing Tech Talk
    • Trike & Sidecar Talk
    • Trailer Talk
    • The Darksiders
  • Technical Library - Read Only
    • Venture and Venture Royale Tech Library ('83 - '93) - READ ONLY!
    • Royal Star Venture and Royal Star Technical Library ('99 - '13) - READ ONLY!
    • Star Venture and Eluder Technical Library ('18 - Present) - READ ONLY!
    • General Tech Library - READ ONLY!
  • Member Recommendations
    • Favorite Roads and Destinations
    • Riding Gear
    • Bike Accessories
  • Member Restaurant Reviews
    • United States Restaurants
    • Canadian Restaurants
    • Other Countries
  • Motorcycle Experiences
    • VentureRider Campers
    • Lessons Learned
    • Embarrassing Moments
  • Rides and Rallies
    • VentureRider Regional Rallies
    • Meet-n-Eats
    • Non-VentureRider, other clubs, public Events
  • VentureRider Vendors
    • Vendors who offer us Discounts.
  • Buy, Sell, Trade
    • Member Vendors
    • First Gen Venture ('83-'93) Complete Bikes Only
    • Second Gen Venture ('99-'13) Complete Bikes Only
    • Third Gen Venture ('18-Present) Complete Bikes Only
    • Yamaha Royal Star - Complete Bikes Only
    • Other Motorcycles - Complete Bikes Only
    • Trikes and Sidecars
    • First Gen Parts and Accessories
    • Third Gen Parts and Accessories
    • Second Gen Parts and Accessories
    • Royal Star Parts and Accessories
    • Universal Parts and Accessories
    • Trailers
    • Motorcycle Electronics - GPS, Headsets, Radio, Etc.
    • Riding Gear - Helmets, Jackets, Etc.
    • Other Vehicles - Cars, Trucks, Boats, Etc.
    • Want To Buy
    • Everything Else For Sale
  • VentureRider Website Discussion
    • Computer help and tips for using this site.
    • Bug Reports
    • Requests for Features
    • Testing Area

Product Groups

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Name


About Me


Location


City


State/Province


Home Country


Interests


Bike Year and Model


Bike Customizations


Occupation


VR Assistance

  1. I have a brake fluid leak that I am having trouble stopping. The fluid is coming from between the front caliper halves on the upper side when mounted on the bike. I have been unable to find replacemnt seals for the two bolts that hold the two caliper halves togeather. If you look at the picture you can see the area I am talking about. This is the right side caliper that is NOT part of the unified braking system I no one has ideas does anyone have a caliper for sale for an 83’. Thanks Steve
  2. I am having trouble with bleeding the front brakes on my wife's 2005 V-Star classic. I replaced the upper brake hose. The one from the master res. on the handle bar to the splitter. Neither of the banjo's are leaking. I replaced the fluid till it ran clear through both caliper bleeders. Now the fluid runs clear but the lever still has no back pressure. It just travels right to the handle bar. Its almost as if the piston in the master cly. is not full, and yet it pushes the fluid out the bleeders. Any suggestion would be greatly appeciated. Wayne
  3. Well i noticed last night that i have to pull the lever almost all the way back to have a full release. Found that out at a stop light. I have noticed over time that the lever seems like it needs to move a little farther back to release the clutch. The clutch does engage at the same point it always has. It has been hot here in KC and humid for most of the summer. I don't know how old the fluid is but it is not clear but more of a dull darkish tinted color. I have done a few searches on this site and my first course of action will be to change the fluid. I havent had any leaks so maybe a new hose if the fluid swap doesn't do the trick. This site is a great resource for repair how to do's because the members actually do their own repairs and let others know the little things that make a repair job less frustrating. I will keep you posted.
  4. So I stepped outside at work today to have a smoke. I noticed fluid puddled around my front tire and automatically thought, Brake fluid. DANG!!! I stooped down and started looking; but coulden't see where it was coming from. It was on the wheel and both sides of the tire. I started to run my finger through it for a "texture feel" test. I have even been known to do a "taste" test. But, at the last second before touching the "fluid" Something in the back of my mind told me to stop. Then it came to me. One of our truck drivers had arrived a few minutes before, and Jake, his little male dog was running loose on the property. I checked the brake feel of the hand and the foot brake for confirmation and they worked well without any further "leakage". Sure am glad i didn't try that "taste" test ! !
  5. Okay, if your on the road and your brakes stick on what do you do? I just finished solving this on my 1st Gen (83) and this may help you!! I am going to try and include pics with this!! I replaced my pads for a 10 day cross country ride coming up and ended up with a sticky Rear/front brake system.. If something like this happens to you here are some suggestions.. 1. If your bike feels like its lost power, is hard to push back and forth or if you just plain smell hot brakes - STOP and check them! 2. With a damp fingertip (spit works great) carefully touch the surface of your rotors (like testing a hot clothes iron). 3. If both left front and rear rotors are hot - its the rear system. If its just the right front its the front brake.. I am only dealing with the rear system at this time.. 4. If its the rear system, take an 8mm box end or a socket and open the bleeder on the front left caliper - have a rag hany cause if it is a stuck system your gonna get fluid out and you dont want it on your rotor.. 5. Push the bike back and forth or put it up on the center stand and see if the she rolls easy now.. If it does and the problem had effected both front and rear brake rotors (remember - your back brake pedal is activating both front left and rear calipers) check these items.. 6. Look at your master cylinder - at the bottom of it is a rod sticking out and an attachent for the pedal. Gently hold that rod between your thumb and finger and see if it has movement back and forth and a small amount up and down.. If it doesnt, you may need to clean the pivot for you pedal and/or adjust the freeplay screw to get play in it.. Now try your brakes - if still stickin go on to 7. 7. Pump your pedal HARD!! ALthough it is BEST to remove the rear brake master cylinder to do the following, so you can take it all apart and clean it thouroughly, I am going to give you some info for "on the road" fixen!! It also may be worth just doing this first BEFORE doing a complete take down - always start with lesser surgery first - I learned that from my NeuroSurgeon! 8. Expose the rear master. 9. Notice where the hose from the Fluid Resivore attaches to the Master. It is attached with a small phillips screw. Remove this screw. 10. Take a pair of pliers and squeeze the rubber line about 3/8th inch above the little plasic elbow that you just removed the screw from.. ITs best to have an extra set of hands there to do this as youwill want this line held closed during surgery. 11. Gently turn the hose back and forth to move the plastic "L" in its holder. Pull out while doing so.. The "L" is held in by an O-ring. 12. Make sure you dont loose the O-Ring when the L coomes out of the master - maintain squeeze on the hose (by the way, I carry a small set of surgical forcept pliers in my tool kit - VERY handy for all kinds of this stuff!) 13. Look at the pics I have attached - If you look closely you can see the little wire I have protruding from the return bleed hole back into the fluid res hose. This little hole is the hole that is on top of the cup that recieves the "L". 14. You WILL need a small wire to unplug this hole. I am using a bristle off a wire brush - someone who responded to my original thread about all this suggested this and it works GREAT!! I also use wire brush bristles for carb jet cleaning!! On the road I wouldnt be afraid to take a strand of wire from piece of wire (ya'll carry a little spool or wiring in your bag dont cha?).. 15. Push the wire into the top orfice and be prepared to get a SQUIRT! WHen I did this on my 83 it SQUIRTED out like a high pressure squirtgun!! 16. Work the wire in and out to clean out the orfice real good. 17. Wipe the insideof the cup where the L goes out real good. 18. Clean the surface of the "L" and the o-ring real good. 19. Relax the squeeze onthe hose and let a little fluid out. FLuid should RUSH out!! 20. If the fluid barely trickles. 21. Squeeze the hose again, point the opening of the L that goes into the Master down toward the ground. 22. Squeeze the hose above the pliers with your fingers. 23. Let go of the pliers a little so the fluid is forced out - you may be shocked what you get out of the hose - I WAS!! Re-Squeeze with the pliers as soon as it bleeds a shot!! 24. Replace the end of the L into the cup on the Master. 25. Release the pliers and squeeze the hose so fluid is gushing out around the L while pushing it in. 26. Replace the phillips screw!! 27. Pump your brakes and they should release and the wheels roll free. 28.. Put her back together and RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh yea, you might want to check your Brake Fluid first chance you get!! Special thanks to ALL who responded to my other thread about this!! Lots of GREAT info there folks!! "puc
  6. I have an '83 standard.....the clutch resevoir (sp) ran dry so i put more fluid in and she was back to normal in a flash. That lasted about 15 miles the when I pulled in on the clutch there was NOTHING again. After I limped her home I checked the fluid level and it looked fine. Is there a place to bleed that system? Maybe I got some air in there messin' with things.
  7. I did and used transmission fluid. I think it is too thin as the fluid "bounces" around a lot. Has anyone tried gear lube? I figure a 75 weight gear lube would be better than the water thin ATF I used. (I now clearly understand why Mercury is used in this application. ) I have about 2-3 feet of hose between the fluid & the carb so I'm not really worried about it being sucked into the engine.
  8. with all the help i have recieved since being a member i am grateful ...but the powers that be want me to keep having issues..... #1 my lowbeam headlight is very dim the warning light comes on i switch it to bright and it goes off duhhhh i have replaced the bulb (made sure i didnt touch it ) same problem i cleaned the connector still to no avail my voltage is good anything i might be missing ? help lol ppl not going to like me at night with the brights on #2 my brake fluid warning light comes on all the time. it goes off for a while the comes back on (thought it was the overheat warning till i looke at the online owners manual) sometime i wonder if im a blonde no offense lol i know that im not low on fluid i have checked it and made sure both res are full i was told that htere is a float in the res that may stick but for the life of me i cant see it must be extremly internal anyone have these problems before and have corrected them? im beginning to wonder if someone is tell me that jess and i shouldnt be going on this long trip we r planning on july 7 thank you for any help yall can give jack
  9. Reverse Brake Bleeding Do it backwards like the Pros do! If conventional brake bleeding of the front brakes is leaving you with less hair and more wrinkles between the eybrows, try doing it backwards, like the professionals do!! If you have opened the system by changing brake lines or working on the calipers or the reservoir, this may be the only way to completely rid the system of air. Pro shops use a pressurized or "Bladder" setup to simply fill the system from the bottom up, chasing the air upwards, out the top, then some of the fluid is drawn back out or pumped back out to eliminate any residual air that may be pocketed in any upper recesses of the caliper. With a few dollars and a trip to your local hardware store and kitchen, you can build your own "Gravity Bleed" system and do the job right the first time and be finished in an hour, instead of a week!! Think of this system as a medical "I.V." system, just like the one they give you blood or fluids with. You fill a reservoir with fluid, attach it to the caliper bleeder valve (nipple), then either let gravity do the work, or lightly apply squeeze pressure by hand. Very simple, and extremely effective. Some items you will need: 1.) A typical 16 or 20 oz water bottle, clean and dry. 2.) A 3/16" Brass Hose Barb from the hardware store (with 1/8" pipe threads on the back end). 3.) A 1/2" brass Lamp base nut (listed with 1/8" ISP threads (to secure the hose barb with.) 4.) Two used banjo crush washers (these are a perfect size, but other washers will work. 5.) 6 feet of 3/16" inside diameter clear tubing. 6.) (Optional) 1/4" outside brass needle valve. 7.) A roll of Duct tape and a Coat Hangar or rope for suspending the bottle. 8.) Turkey baster (for removing excess fluid from reservoir. 9.) Some Teflon plumber's tape for sealing the bleeder valve threads. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/supplies.jpg Drill a hole in the cap of the water bottle and attach the hose barb to the cap, using the brass lamp nut and the two used banjo washers. wrap a loop of duct tape over the bottom of the bottle so you will have something to hang it upside down by. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/cap.jpghttp://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bottle.jpg Pour in the brake fluid. Attach the clear tubing to the cap. (I used a small needle valve near the free end of the hose just to make things work a little cleaner, since I had to bleed both sides of my dual disc system, but the needle valve is not necessary.) Remove the caliper bleeder nipple, clean its threads, and then wrap a short length of Teflon tape around the threads to help seal it from air entry or fluid leakage during the process, then reinstall the nipple to the caliper. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/teflon1.jpg http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/teflon2.jpg First of all, use common sense when setting up to bleed. Air migrates upward in a liquid system, so tilt your handlebars, turn your handlebars, and or reposition your master cylinder so that the banjo fitting is BELOW the lowest point of the reservoir. Now, after removing the reservoir cap, loosen the caliper bleeder valve to open it, and attach the free end of the clear tubing to it. It helps to let the clear tubing fill up with fluid right to the end before attaching to the bleeder valve, just to reduce the introduction of air into the brake system. Raise and secure the upside down bottle to a level just above the reservoir, then take a small pointed punch or other device and poke a small "breather" hole in the bottom of the bottle (which is now the high end), so it can draw in air as the fluid flows downward. Make sure that the clear tubing makes a constant uphill path to the bottle so that air in the tubing will work its way to the top and into the bottle. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/ivbottle.jpg http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/setup.jpg You can help and speed the process by taking the bottle in your hand and while holding your thumb over the breather hole, squeeze the bottle gently, and watch the reservoir as it fills. You can also "suck" fluid back through by moving your thumb off the hole, then squeezing the bottle to remove its air content, then hold your thumb over the hole and manipulate the bottle to draw fluid back in with a slight vacuum pressure When the system is initially filled with fluid, let it sit undisturbed for 15 minutes, then there will be three air bubbles left in the system. One small one just below each bleeder nipple at the calipers, and one big one at the master cylinder banjo fitting. Now, with the system full, you can "tickle" that bubble out of the banjo by LIGHTLY squeezing the lever only a SLIGHT amount (may 1/4"). Just "wiggle" the lever in and out at the very outward portion of its travel, and it will draw that bubble upward. If you fully squeeze the lever, or squeeze it hard, you are forcing that banjo bubble down into the brake line, and it has to start climing back up all over again. When you can't "tickle" any more air through the tiny orifice in the reservoir, reverse sqeeze some more fluid through the system with the bottle, and watch for any new bubbles. If you don't get any new ones, and can't "tickle" any more out from the top, then crack open the caliper bleeder and SLOWLY bleed any remaining caliper air out from the bottom conventionally. Finish off the other caliper and test the system. Dual Disc Notes: If your system consists of dual brake discs and calipers, work the left caliper first, until fluid begins to reach the reservoir, then swap over and work the right, until all air is evacuated, then finally, go back and lever bleed the left again to make certain there is no air left in the caliper itself.
  10. Over the winter have been starting my 1st gen once a week battery is on charger. Cranks fine, up on center stand gets spark to all cylinders it just will not start bike is in Neutral, full of fuel with Stabil fuel is filter is a few months old. I did manage to break my throttle cable though. Have sprayed starting fluid in still wont fire. If starting fluid cant get it to fire I dont know what will.Im confused since I have spark. Any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...