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Showing results for tags 'fluid'.
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Got the new battery in, and after a short charge she started up..........that takes a load of my mind. Now I am having problem pumping up the rear brakes, cant get the fluid to the rear caliper, I can hear it pumping air into it, but no fluid, I tried every trick I new and nothing, did everything short of tearing the cylinder down, but it was working perfectly before I tore the bike down for the repair. I am open to suggestions................PLEASE!!!
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I picked up an 86 royale this March and it wouldn't idle. Run down the highway but still wasn't really true Venture. I read about Seafoam and after 6 bottles, 700 miles of riding 'er hard (the bike, not wife) it still ran like crap at idle. I saw post after post about "Sync it" and still I didn't believe. I chased all kinds of imagined electrical issues, changed spark plugs, ohm'd wires and still it sounded like it was missing. Last night, I finally decided to build a poor man's sync tool with tubing and trans fluid. To my amazement when I started it, the 4th cylinder tried to suck all the fluid out. After 40 minutes of tweeking, it's purring like a kitten with it's tail on fire. Moral: Listen to the experts on here, they're wise beyond what is shown and SYNC your carbs, dammit. thanks guys -
Ok all, my nephew stayed 4 days with me this week. He is 20 years old and we done some turkey hunting. Then he helped me get my bike up on the layrin bike lift and we changed the front tire. Then my brother came over this morning and we changed the rear. So now this is what I have gotten done on the bike, with a whole lot of help. I am a decent boss on the how to part and I can hand a tool with the best of you, one arm,left shoulder surgery. So I did help as much as possible, until it came to the lifting that required two arms. #1. Flanders bar upgrade from Buckeye Performance, with stainless brake lines and throttle and clutch. #2. Removed all the old fluid and put in new brake fluid and clutch fluid. #3. New Plugs. #4. A.New Avon Venom front. B. New Avon Venom rear, greased rear diff. I already had done the spline and new diff gear oil last year at only 3000 mile earlier. Still going to do; #1. Wash and wax the wheels and mufflers before replacing on bike. #2. Change oil. #3. Check the K&N air filters to make sure they are OK and properly seated in the canister. I read where Freddy had done his and they did not seat properly, so I am going to check mine and make sure they are alright and fix if not. #4. I am going to get everything back together. #5. Wash the whole bike and add some wax. #6. Order a new set of bigger mirrors that I saw somewhere for around $30.00. Put them on. I think that is it...... Oh Ya, hopefully get to ride it in about 2-3 weeks ??? Doctor appt. Wednesday, May 2nd. I may be released to drive,work, and ride sometime in the very near future,I hope. Fuzzy -
I installed Speed Bleeders ™ on the clutch and on all brake bleeding points yesterday (perhaps I shouldn't have chosen Friday the Thirteenth) and flushed all clutch and brake fluids with new fresh DOT4. Everything was going swell until I replaced the last bleed valve on the rear caliper and could not get any fluid to come out of the bleeder when I attempted to bleed the rear brake line. I replaced the Speed Bleeder with the OEM and attempted to bleed as normal and again no fluid would emit. I removed the bleeder and depressed the brake foot pedal, but still no fluid at rear caliper. I can see that there is fluid in the open port where the bleeder fits, but none comes out when I depress the pedal. I have a very firm pedal and the left front brake works. I tried rebleeding the entire system and did not encounter any air at the front or at the metering bleeder near the steering head. I removed the plastic elbow with the reservoir fill hose attached to it and drained the reservoir. I examined the two ports inside the master cylinder that are visible when the elbow is removed and noted that the orifices were open as I depressed the pedal. I reinstalled the elbow, refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid and rebled the front left, the steering head metering bleed valve and attempted to bleed the rear once again without success. Same results, no fluid and no pressure at the pistons. Applying the pedal does not apply the brakes on the rear wheel but the front left brake works fine. It seems to me that the proportioning valve mounted on the master cylinder is stuck, perhaps, but I don't know enough about the internal plumbing of the master cylinder/proportioning valve to know if this is likely. It is not an easy task to remove the master cylinder and or the proportioning valve, so I am asking for guidance towards some other cause for me to have no pressure at the rear caliper. The last time I rode the bike a couple weeks ago, the brakes seemed to work fine, even two up. I only encountered a problem after I installed the Speed Bleeders™. (Thanks to your suggestion, Condor!) -
So with the new HO Stator, starter clutch, and programmable TCI installed I can't get the bike cranked. After 3 cans of starter fluid the bike will fire only as long as the starter fluid is present but then chokes out. The fuel pumps seems to click for long time every time I turn the key on. And the battery drains down to nothing quickly and I've had it on the charger all day. When the charger indicates charged it has 13.5 volts but doesn't last long. The bikes been sitting for about a year. I'm thinking I'll probably have to pull the carbs and go through them again. But, I thought I'd get some more opinions before I did that. -
I have a friend that has a 1200 Goldwing and he has problem bleeding his rear brakes. He Bleeds some of the fluid, fills the fluid up and closes the bleed valve and resourivore lid. When he pumps the rear brake peddle he has no break pressure. The break peddle goes all the way to the bottom with several pumps. Does it over again with the same result. Any suggestion?
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Im finally taking care of the steering head bearings at the local Yamaha dealer in preparation for my cross country ride. I also had them do a complete bike check and found that my front brake calipers were not releasing completely ( i asked them to find out why my gas mileage was not where i thought it shouild be). They found milky like brake fluid in the system and suggested rebuilding the system. I gave them the OK to rebuild the calipers and master cylinders. I cant afford the stainless upgrade at this time. The only thing that i didnt like was the fact that they are charging 5 hours of labor to do the head bearings (original est. was 3 hours). For $780, i should have a not only better handling bike but also a little better gas mileage (since the brake pads wont be dragging anymore). My last shop supposedly flush the syetem last year. What causes the brake fluid to turn into this milky thing that they described? -
i recently noticed a green fluid leaking from under my bike and cannot tace it.It started after the bike had been sitting for a month.There are small beads of green fluid on the frame.and also the shifter rod.I cannot find where it could be travelling from.The only thing that looks like it needs to be replaced is the rubber cover that is at the end of the shifter rod,which is completely worn out.Any ideas where i should start? Thanks Randy:confused24:
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I notoiced a small amount of fluid under my bike in the garage floor today. I am thinking it's coming from the shock absorber in front of the rear tire. My bike is a 2000 Venture. any suggestions?
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My clutch master cylinder has leaked onto my left side fairing weakening some of the plastic on the bottom. I have a replacement top panel, but more worried about the fairing shell. It has broken off a tab , and it "feels" oily. Is there anything I can do, or is it best to just bite the bullet and try and replace this fairing (ebay). I just don't know if plastic welding/glue/plastex, etc.. would work when it is contaminated like this.... I have the shell removed and can post pictures if that helps. Just was wondering if anyone had dealt with this before and had found something that works. -
My effort to change the clutch fluid has come to a stop. I can not get fluid down the system from the top, nor will it take fluid from the bleed cock upwards, or 'reverse' bleeding. I feel that there is some sort of blockage but I am not a good enough of a mechanic to go from here.....Any thoughts????
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hi all I found this stuff at advanced auto vavoline synthetic brake fluid dot 3&4 ? do you think it good for the clutch on 83 venture. its good price about 6 bucks for a quart bottle. but i never seen brake fluid marked 3 and 4 . your thoughts??? -
I need to replace my clutch and brake fluid in my 91 VR. It has 7000 origional miles and I'm pretty sure it could be the origional fluid. Any special process I should consider. Open to fluid type recommendations and why.
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As much as I hate it. I think its time to take the 91 to the dealor. I am at my wits end here. I love this bike so selling it is not an option and it cant be all that bad . What Im dealing with is the rear brakes. I installed new pads and a new to me rear end in it and now it keeps leaking brake fluid. Add brake fluid to it and it pumps up and I have good brakes. They pulse but stop well. After a fw hrs riding the durned warning light goes off and sure enough its low on fluid again. I cant find the leak so I guess its off to the dealor for a check. Hopefully its simple as Im not cofortable on just front brakes. DAvid -
Earlier, I posted about a rattle I could not tell if it was the collector or something in the bottom of the engine. I had another collector and finally got it on today and when I cranked it up, no more rattle. So, with it being a beautiful sunny day at about 65 degrees, I just had to go for a little ride. The vision in my right eye is getting a little more clear every day in the area that has filled with fluid. Right now the fluid line is about one third from the bottom of my eye, or since everything is upside down in an eye, about two thirds full. Also, the double vision has gone away as things are now lining up and I am having more binocular vision, therefore having better depth of field. So, I figured if I was real careful and did not put myself in any position where I had to manhandle the bike, I would be OK. I took about a 20 mile ride down through the country and it really did feel good. RandyA
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Saturday I rode the Dragon, what a blast.... While I was pulling into the resort I lost my rear brakes. I was telling my buddie who was with me I lost my rear brakes and the gentleman who was doing the pin stripping and sewing on patches overheard what I was telling my friend told me that I had obviously boiled my brakes and he suggested doing a fluid change to Motul 5.1 brake fluid. He was a wealth of knowledge and then he proceded to show me his RSV. He pulls a 1000 lb trailer daily through the Dragon and said he had changed his fluid to the 5.1 and has had no problems since. Looking for thoughts about changing from the DOT 4 fluid to the 5.1. He said it has a higher temp rating and that it would solve any issues I would ever have with hot brakes. Now that this has happened should I am going to flush and replace my fluid since it is now black and was wondering if I should do a rear pad change as well? Also was wondering is there anyone in the Nashville/Murfreesboro Tennessee area that knows how and has the equipment to help sync my carbs?
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I have notsed that my clutch lever has been getting less free play "for say." So I was thinking it is time to change the fluid. Did that about 3000 miles ago. Now it started it again. Went to the steeler, thay changed it again. Sed it didn't look good. I told him I just changed it. He didn't know what the problum is. Sed try it and see what hapens. Is this why the the ventures are having clutch slip??? under power pull the clutch intill it starts to slip. Mine startes to do this with very little pull of the clutch lever. Now after new fluid I can squese the lever about 1.5 inches befour it starts to slip. Is this some thing we should be watching for???? Or do I still have some thing wrong????? Thanks For all the help!!!
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Met with the doc today and he says no surgery at this time.... Maybe in 5 or 10 years.. Now he has a baseline to go off of... CT scans every 3 months to see how much fluid builds up,, The excess brain fluid is there,but not causing the headaches,chest pains and blurred vision... He is leaning towards migraine headaches as the issue... More pills to take.... He must have seen the look on my face and referred me to another doc to see if he confirms this... So I'm trying to get in to see the other doc before the end of the week,before I go back to work.. Thanks for all the well wishes...
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Think my clutch slave has a slow leak 02rsv I've had the bike since may and had to top the reservoir twice now. Actually found what I am pretty sure is brake fluid on the concrete under the bike this morning. I access the forum with tapatalk with my Android. Someone mentioned the shop manual being on this site, anybody have a url for it. And, does the clutch line travel under the engine, found a line with the leaking fluid on bottom side line. I want to make sure its not just a slightly loose connection. Rebuilding hydraulic cylinders wasn't on my list of thing to do this summer. Bob Marshall, il
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I noticed the other day that my rear brake pedal was going down farther than normal. I changed my pads abouth 6000 mile ago so I thought I was due for new ones. When I did a visual check by removing the inspection cover, it looked like they were getting close enough to change. I went out and bought some new ones and started to change them. When I removed them, I discovered that I had at least half of the pad left. The outside pad had worn slightly more than the inside so I decided to swap them. In the process of compressing the pistons, I decided to check the fluid level in my reservoir and found it EMPTY! I finished installing the pads and added fluid to the reservoir. The level must have been just below the bowl because it I got a few bubbles come up while filling and when I blead the breaks I didn't get any air from the caliper. I ran enough fluid through the system to ensure that ther wasn't any air in it. My pedal is tight and working perfectly. Now the mystery begins. I inspected the entire rear brake system to figure out where my leak was (I surly had to have a leak). To my surprise I couldn't find any evidence of a leak or even dirt collecting where the had been a leak. I've been working on cars, airplanes, and bike most of my life and have never had brake fluid just disapear. Hydraulic fluid doesn't evaporate (as far as I know).So where did it go? I know that the reservoir was full the last time I installed pads and I have checked the site window ocasionally when I was cleaning the bike. Has anyone else seen this or have a resonable explaination?
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Hey all - Got an '83 Venture Royale that has started intermittently displaying the low brake fluid level warning light... usually it pops on during acceleration in 2nd and 3rd gears. Checked the fluid levels and they seem fine. no drips, leaks or missing fluid at all. BTW ... brakes are working just fine as well. Anyone have any suggestions or ran into this before? Thanks in advance J -
1999 RSV developed a slow clutch fluid leak that progressively got worse until one night I filled and it the next morning it had all leaked out from the vicinity of the slave cylinder. Before this I could hear what sounded like a gurgle when motioning the clutch lever. So I have the bike picked up for service. I get a call yesterday. They had flushed and filled the system and voila, no leaks, Zero. WTH was leaking and how did it magically stop? Any and all theories are appreciated. In the mean time I have told them to keep the bike and ride it for a few days to see if the leak returns. Thank you in advance.
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http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh221/muaymendez/IMAG0235.jpg Will the angle of the bars cause problems with the feed of fluid for the brake and the clutch?? http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh221/muaymendez/IMAG0236.jpg -
Went for a short ride tonight and went around the first corner and pressed on the brake pedal and uhh oh.....no brake at all.... Rode it three days ago and all was okay... No visible brake line leakage and no fluid anywhere....just no pressure at all... I"ll ride it tomorrow to work with just the front right and then check it out tomorrow. I"ll first check the rear fluid level and see if that is good..If that is good, will vacuum bleed.. Wondering if rear master cylinder would have suddenly gone.. This is an unexpected and never encountered problem.. Thoughts? ideas? comments? Thanks Clay -
Riding in the Southern USA and going to change my Clutch Fluid, all I notice us DOT 4 full Synthetic Fluid, is this the proper fluid to use? I hadn't noticed in Canada if it was fully Synthetic or not.
