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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Been trying to find info about the middle gear and output shaft. Specifically ... how to check free play or gear lash ... can shims be installed... can it be done with engine still in the bike...etc? I know I've read before some info about this but can't seem to find specifically what I want by searching. Could someone point me to some tech info about this or maybe you can walk me through the process... got some pics? I have the service manual but all the info there seems to be based on the engine being out of the bike and with the cases split.
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Wondering if this is 'normal'. At 75(speedo), 5th gear (or 65 speedo 4th gear), if you lay your hand on the tank (or squeeze with knees) I can feel a pretty good buzz. I can also feel it in the floorboards and the hand grips. The bike is an 06 rstd with 6,000 miles. New rear tire(E3). If I pull the clutch at speed the buzz completely dissappears, so I'm thinking it can't be tires...has to be engine. Also, If I am running a little slower in 5th...say about 65, gentle cruise, there is a light thumping/ticking in the passenger seat and backrest...it is not a fast as the buzz but faster than wheel spin. I know all about letting these engines rev, and have of course felt the heavy vibration/shaking when I try to do too much acceleration in 5th or 4th....the buzz isn't this....the pillion 'ticking' does seem to be at the same frequency as the lugging feeling you can get in too high a gear...but it is there even when holding at steady speed(just less pronounced). Have net yet tried sea-foam, new plugs or carb sync (don't know if PO did it before me either). Engine runs so well I did not think any of these was indicated....could be wrong though. Thanks for any help or suggestions. -
Ride a 2003 RSV with a champion escort sidecar. RSV passenger headset wiring is piped into the sidecar and rider in car accesses with a plug just as bike passenger would. There is extreme engine noise and interference over the intercom. Volume adjustment does not eliminate this static/whine/interference. That's one issue. Looking for help. I'm in the Seattle WA area. The sidecar electrics operate off the bike. The SC is wired for hydraulic brakes, tail lights, turn signals. Lots of wiring under the driver seat. The problem is the bike often stops...quits, becomes a nice looking pile of metal/plastic/rubber. And I know zip/nada about all things electric. So any recommendations for a solution, in the Seattle area, would be appreciated. :
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Had a few questions I was hoping someone could answer: Will any Harley touring bike mufflers work or are the Road Kings prefered? Can they be any year, I understand newer ones have a catalytic converter in them, does this affect sound or my RSVs engine? Will adding these mufflers require any engine adjustments? Are the brackets sold on the classifieds page still being made? Thank you for any assistance!!!!
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ok where do i get some good radiator hoses? i found out i blew the hose from radiator to the engine still not sure how the radiator is. looks clean no holes. i went to a stealer to check on the price they said why you still have one of thoes on the road?? gee what a jerk. said all the hoses would be around $200.00 damn them are expensive hoses. saw some on ebay but still where talking 27 year old hoses. hate to put it back together and keep my fingers crossed that old ones from ebay will hold up. i checked napa auto to see if i could match some up but to many bends in that one for the bike to even come close.. the long one on the bike looks like it was replaced at some time still a tag on it from a dealer in MN? cant read the date though? all the other ones are either real hard or weather checking? and i hate them spring type clamps you squeeze them to get them off and they dont look like they have enough tension to hold the hoses when i go to put them back on?? not in a hurry right now its tore down rags over the engine to protect it. as i have a wedding to attend in MN my daughters. then i will get back to the project at hand. also came accross a free bike a friend has up there. an old yamaha radian?? needs a clutch. it moves but slips. something to do next winter??
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I am swapping out my 1200 for a 1300 engine and need some help with the wiring differences can anyone help me? thanks -
I posted this just after I got my 83 Venture royale last summer but couldn't remedy. Different year, same noise. If you saw the movie Dumb & Dumber, Jim carry's character asks," do you want to hear the most obnoxious sound ever?" Well mine is kind of like the sound he made. Like a prolonged chicken squawk. It starts at about 35 mph, it stops just as I come to a stop. It was really howling today (my second ride this year) so as I approached my house I pulled in the clutch and killed the motor. The noise again continued til I rolled to a stop. It is only one note no matter the engine speed or the ground speed. It does seem louder at times but that could be that the engine makes less noise at lower speed. I really like the bike except for this issue. I'm reluctant to spring for new tires and the starter clutch upgrade without knowing how serious this is. Thanks for any input. PS I can't imagine that the brakes could be the cause but tommorow I plan to pull the units off the wheel to make sure -
I would like to polish up my engine side covers. How would I do that? What type of paint should I use for the Black? I took a picture from ebay so you know what I'm talking about.
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i have been running my 2007 on premium gas...can i down grade to regular...tring to save some cost without hurting the engine....thanks
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Hi, I purchased a Battery Bug from Argus Analyzer and I wrote them an email yesterday with a question concerning my Battery Bug that I installed on my 04 RSV. Here is Jim's response. He responded within 24 hours of my initial question and the article he attached is that written by Stu Oltman, the editor of Wing World Magazine. I just had to share that with the good folks on the forum here. His timely response and the article he sent me answered all my questions and alleviated any of my worry or anxiety about the operation of the Bug. All in all I think they are great folks to deal with. I don't know how to attach a word doc or I would put it in here. I don't have a date for the month the evaluation was written up in Wing Word Magazine but I know Stu and he wrote an excellent review. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta Chris - Remember the ‘Bug is showing “Cranking Health” not the “Battery Life”. Think of Cranking Health as the battery’s ability to do its job of starting the engine. There are many factors affecting that ability. Chiefly - the SIZE of the battery. A tiny battery and a HUGE engine will give a low Cranking Health % even when the battery is new - because the battery will have a hard time cranking that engine. In addition – cold temperatures will affect cranking health in a negative way. Cold temps make it harder to crank the engine both because the battery is cold AND the engine oil is cold an sluggish. Remember also that the %-age on the display ONLY goes down. It is displaying the WORST start and therefore the number will never go up again. Expect the % cranking health displayed to steady itself after a few weeks, then slowly descend over time. Attached is an article that you might find interesting as well. Please let me know if you have more questions! Jim Argus Analyzers 401-965-4569 -
Hi folks. I'm looking for a used air control grill that goes into the left side plastic engine cover for my 86 Venture Royale. Should be the same for 86-93 I think. Not sure when it happened, but I discovered it was all cracked up inside. Some of the flaps are missing, and some are broken. Even a damaged one will do. Maybe I can make one out of two with some Plastex. I checked on Ebay, and didn't see one at the moment.
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externally, there are 4 inlet ports, and 2 exhaust ports. internally, there are also 4 "tubes" on the inlet ports and 2 tubes on the exhaust ports.my question is ,would removing or shortening the "internal tubes" , have any serious effect on the overall engine performance? referring mostly to carbs. just jt -
Would this be OK to sync the carbs? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300529194899&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT Where can I get the Yamaha engine tach, part #YU-08036-A, 90890-03113 Thanks, Melvin
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OK guys, I have a small leak that has developed around where the drive shaft mates with the transmission. Since I recently installed this engine, it has crossed my mind that I damaged a seal. Can anyone offer me any ideas here?
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My nephew bought an 86 Nissan pickup. Starts right up and drives good. The problem is it has NO power. when you punch it it just falls on its face. I changed the plugs, wires, rotor cap, distributor cap, air filter, fuel filter, sea foamed it, and reset the timing. Now the lady he got it from said that she had just put this engine in, also said this engine had a ton of power in the donor truck and when her mechanic put it in this truck it had none. Any ideas? This thing will not even get to 60 mph. Shaun
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Sometimes students come into my class and I'm sure even they don't know what they been smoking. BUT have you ever had conversations with a pair of gurus who KNOW what they been smoking? I'm posting up the latter part of conversations I've had with them. If you're a guru (who knows what they are smoking) what would you say? Have to figure out if it is electrical or fuel issues. New plugs, ride it, and then look at them. Running hot or fouling. Rough in low rpms? does it clear when you get it going? Rough all the way through? Then you think about what to start looking for. Good answer eh Also it would be interesting to note whether or not the plugs are firing inside the engine. You'll have to go for another ride to here to find that out. Also, did you remove the ignition wires when you changed the motor, so are the wires going to the right plugs from the right coils. Still need to know what kind of ignition wires you have,,, copper or carbon? The other thing could be that the boots under the carbs are not seated properly, they may have come off after you put them on properly,, it happens,,,, that would give false air into the cylinders and also throw off a carb tune, and so you would have the same symptoms that you have now. Carbtune done with Tuckett's unit, with Tuckett watching, I've done it a dozen times myself too. Wires are copper, not carbon. Wires were not removed during this engine swap. Regardless, I know which wires go where. Carbs are seated properly on the boots. I've taken the carbs off the bike every winter as part of my normal cleanup, with last winter being a total rebuild, ran good. On reinstallation for one of those times I didn't get them seated properly on the boots and noticed that fact by how it ran before I got to the corner stop sign, black smoke, that is not the problem this time. I'm concluding it's a fuel delivery issue. How about you? Plugs removed looking a very little bit white ...too lean a mixture? If it were my bike sitting here, I would check all the plug wires to make sure they are firing properly,,, just to rule that out,,, buuttt too lean a mixture will also give you problems but then it would tend to bog out when you twist the throttle,, which I don't think it does. Some more questions then: Do you need a choke for a cold start? Does it run better with the choke partially closed? Did you replace the fuel filter? A far out question,,,, are you sure it's a 1300 engine? Something that's interesting is the way it starts and takes off, doesn't seem to be any problems there. Post it up, and see if anybody else has better ideas. Carl some more answers then... I need choke for a cold start, same as always, between a quarter and half of the lever. I does not run better at partial choke. Fuel filter gets replaced with every rear tire change. The Pinwall Cycle video shows the bike coming in was a MkII with '89 colours. The engine that I picked up had all the 1300 badging on the side covers. I'm still stuck on ignition. When I sprayed WD40 into the intakes, it didn't change anything. So if the fuel delivery was on the low side or none at all, it should have smoothed out, if the fuel was rich it would have started bogging down, that's why I would think ignition, and I would like to see if those plugs are firing under load. Did you do a compression test on this engine, if it's low in a couple of cylinders, it would also present the same symptoms. I'll tell ya'll what I say.....if I start caring more about what an engine looks like than how it runs, I must be gettin ready to ride a 2nd gen...OH WHAT HATH BECOME ME!
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well the cushman is done and it hit the road for the shake down cruise today. it ran flawlesly and has more balls than i planned on. very fast. i think this is the best build i ever did, and it's going to be my last one. pictures will be coming soon. it really turned out better than i planned on. i just wanted a rider, and got in deeper than i planned. heading for greenwo0d ar. in 2 weeks for the debut. next project which should be a cheapy, is a gocart with an old 7 hp. wisconsin engine that i picked up at an old thresher show. it's not going to be anything major just an engine restoration and build a gokart from scratch. i never had a real gokart. the engine is almost like one i had on a cushman airborn frame back in the 50's.
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Ed, a MARINE CORP friend of mine ask what my opinion of a ultralite name of Challenger made in Canada was. To be entirely fair, in GA, ultralights are generally frowned upon. My impression is the the alerion and rudder is inadaqiate and the placement of the 40 hp. rotax engine is also asking for trouble. The placenment of the engie, screws up the CG of the aircraft. Under full power, It also overides the up motion of the yoke which under emergency power on could be detrimental to your health. Since it doesn't have alerions, "flaperions" , a moderate to heavy cross wind cannot be corrected. MaxVE is 100 mph? Sorry but if your practicin stalls and spin adversion that ain't gonna cut it. Engin failures require immediate push overs to avoid flat spins due to placement of engine. Anybody have one of these ? Am I being overly bias?
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Just wondering if anyone uses, an additive in there oil to help with the shifting? and/Or make the Engine run smoother?
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Can someone explain to me in layman's terms what the relationship is between these three and other pertinent output info? I.e., what is more relevant, Hp, torque, compression ratio, bore and stroke, displacement? Or(/and) does this relate to driving style and area (e.g. Florida Flat or Colorado curvy) thanks Oh, I'm wondering 'cause I was surfing the web and found what turns out to be a 1200, 65 Hp engine with I think it said 71ft/lbs (R1200CLC) and since I haul a sidecar and would like to continue doing so, is this something I should not consider or is it a possibility
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I have a stuck spark plug. When I say "stuck", I don't mean tight, I mean it will barely move. I am trying all the tricks to ease it out slowly. I might even be able to run the motor later for a few minutes to warm the head up. In the meantime, I am trying to work it back and forth while soaking it in PB Blaster. Questions: 1. If the tread comes out with the plug, can the rear cylinder head be removed with the engine in the frame? 2. If the engine has to come out, what is the easiest way (I have the Yamaha Manual)? 3. Any tips, other than "sell it"? Grrrr!
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Changed my oil to Rotella T6. I do not have as much oil in it as usual because I was unknowingly overfilling. I am half way up in the oil window when level. The whining is unbelievable where there was no whining before. Whining only occurs on decelaration. When engine is under load it is fine. I think it is a volume issue. Thoughts? Bob -
I need a little help or advice on a goldwing problem
GS51 posted a topic in Honda Goldwing Tech Talk
I am looking for some help or advice on an 86 Goldwing 1200 My son got a n 86 Gold wing last spring, yea I know it’s not a Venture but he likes it and the price was right his other bike is a Valcon 1500 and he can’t keep up with me when we ride together and long rides are out on that thing it’s just not comfortable on road trips. Anyway last fall the stator went out so the project over the winter was to replace the stator. Well as you know if you have ever worked on a Goldwing to replace the stator you have to remove the engine. So while we had it out we replaced the clutch and the timing belts rather than waiting on them to break down. Well the stator is replaces and working good that’s another story in its self, and we double and triple checked the timing belts with the engine out and with engine back in place. The clutch works better than it ever did when he had it. After putting it all back together the engine runs good a little back fire but hardly noticeable when sitting still even at high rpm’s but when he tries to ride it there is just no torque when he lets out the clutch in gear it can hardly move itself on level ground any king of a grade and you have to keep slipping the clutch to go. When you release the clutch it stalls out completely, the clutch works fine fully engages and disengages just like it should we even flushed the clutch cylinder and checked to be sure it is working freely all is OK. We had the carb rack out at least 4 times to check for vacuum leaks or linkage problems but nothing. Timing is right on, all the cylinders are getting spark 2 of the cylinders look like they may be running rich (Plugs are wet) but no indication of unburned fuel in the exhaust. We really don’t want to rebuild the carbs without having a real good reason to. We are at the end of our wits and he is ready to scrap it out for parts if we don’t get it running soon. This bike ran good before we had to pull the engine to replace the stator. So any help or suggestions would be helpful Thanks Gary -
While riding today I noticed the engine light came on and went off. Turned key off and restarted light didn' t come back on for 10miles then did it again.Could someone help.
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Carl, I saw in another thread you weren't comfy on the first Gen. due to long legs/over 6' tall Would a set of pegs like this help. They are strong, a lot better than the engine guard mounted ones. Last picture is for reference of bike with knee air deflectors still on. Gary
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