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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Using an automotive floor jack (and a block of wood) what is the best location to lift the bike. (for example to change fork bearings) I don't see clear access to the frame & I don't want to crush the exhaust. Can I use the engine pan? I will eventually get a M/C Jack Sorry for all the questions but I don't find any in the search & I figure thre will be something for future VentureRiders!
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well i had an oil leak in my new stratoliner, which i fixed for a second time before christmas. i had to replace a bad rocker box casting. while i had it in my new shop i did a little tweaking. i added a cobra powerpro autotune, and a patrick racing big air kit. my new d&d exaust arrived yesterday, so it may go on this weekend. this thing has got balls out power from idle on up. it is one cantankerous machine. lots of engine noise, and an archaic engine design. it handles like a wing, and really sits low. kind of a modernized piece of nostalgia. next project in line is a total service on my majesty scooter. whats every one else working on this winter?
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Has anyone tried the Evans Waterless engine coolant yet in their motorcycle. I see that Jay Leno's Garage has a short segment on the product. http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/ They do have a version for power-sports now and I am thinking of converting over this spring to it as it is billed as a lifetime coolant never needing replacement or wearing out. It also has the benefit of non-corrosive and higher boiling point then water based coolants. Here is their website.. http://www.evanscooling.com/ Thanks Rick F.
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To all the Toronto area members...please let me know if you know a young mechanically inclined person looking for a full time job. I work for a small company looking to train someone in industrial engine and pump assembly/repair. We are a distributor for John Deere, Kubota, and Ford industrial engines and Flowserve pumps located in Mississauga.
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I got off work Thursday night (12/29) and agreed to meet my wife and her parents at the SeaIsland Shrimp House in Live Oak. As I pulled up there was another bike in the parking lot with the blue engine glow lights on. As I got closer to it I realized it was an RSV. I was going to put one of my Venturerider cards on it, but it had a proximity alarm that chirped the closer you got to it. Pretty bike although I couldn't tell the color in the dark due to the blue LEDs on the engine and lowers. Gave me another idea for some more "Safety Accessories" though. Anyone here. I know It wasn't Buddyrich or JB, I have seen their bikes.
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This is to see if there is any interest in having engine side covers made. The part #s would be: 41R-21731-00-00 and 41R-21741-00-00. They are a 1st gen part only. Will be made from Mirror Finish 18 gauge Stainless. The right side will not be dimpled for the screws, but I figure a couple of nylon washers glued in place should work just fine. Cost would be about $100.00 for the pair and may include shipping. It maybe cheaper, depending on how many we need. We just worked out a maximum price today. The ones shown are chrome, so for identification only.
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We bought this rusty old engine in September, and have been puttsin' with it ever since. It's a 1920 vintage IHC model M, 1-1/2 hp at 650 rpms. Just got it running a little over a week ago. This engine had a very worn egg shaped bore when I got her. Had a new sleeve tube machined and fitted to the IHC sleeve and then fitted to the old piston with new rings. Engine was very stiff, so I used my Fairbanks Morse ZD to turn it for a while before trying to light the M. [ame= ] [/ame] Had a few other issues to work though along the way, but here it is running on the magneto even. [ame= ] [/ame] I wonder how long it will take for everyone else living here to get tired of me starting it up every day?
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I took the Brown fox for an Autumn ride today Ii got about 12 miles from home when I notice a cloud following me. I pull off the road and the fox is smoking like crazy. i shut her off and climb off to see oil dripping out of the(I think) tranny case rather quickly. Its running down onto the collector box and onto the ground. I shut the engine off and the oil stream slows an stops. I start the engine and it starts to flow again. I call a tow truck and take it home. The questions i have: 1.) is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tranmission and could it have worked loose. If not, outside of a possible cracked engine case what else could have caused this leak. To actually be able to see the underside of the engine i'll have to pull the collector box. before i do i need to know if its worth it and what i might find under there. Special note: For the last few weeks the engine started making an internal rattling noise while idling on the side stand.. If its not fixable then I'll either start piecing it out or sell it outright for parts. but before i do that I hope to know if its salvage able. Please help guys and gals. -
If that V4 ain't enuf for you, this V12 will surely fit .... http://www.wimp.com/tiniestengine/
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This may be obvious to all, but be very careful riding throug a puddle if the water is murky enough that you can't see the bottom! Last weekend we were riding back from the Fl. Keys with 2 other bikes through a monsoon-like rainstorm. We pulled into a gas station in, I think it was Long Key, for a fuel stop and I heard an engine behind me rev up really high...my wife yelled out from behind me "Karen just went down, go see if she's okay!". I carefully parked our 06 Midnight Venture and turned around to see Karen, her husband and a bystander lifting Karen's RSTD up off it's left side. Turns out Karen had ridden into a large puddle filled with water so murky she couldn't see how deep it was. Unbeknownst to her the puddle was over a foot deep and had a VERTICAL 12 inch dropoff. As soon as her front wheel went over the edge there wasn't anything she could do-of course her feet wouldn't reach the ground at that point- so she went over. Fortunately she wasn't badly hurt. Her right wrist was banged up, but after putting a brace on it she was able to complete the remaining 375 miles or so back home. And the engine and saddlebag guards must have done their job because the bike wasn't scratched. But obviously it could have been much worse. Like I said, it seems obvious, and we've probably all done it and never had a problem. But if you can't see the bottom of a muddy puddle...go around if at all possible! Oh and the gas station mgmt was totally unsympathetic. Couldn't even be bothered to go look at the puddle, much less put a cone in front of it. We watched several cars plunge both front wheels into the abyss before we left. Definitely a serious accident waiting to happen! Ride Safe! 1/2crazedbikr
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Was riding to work this morning, got about 10 minutes from home, and happened to look down at the volt gage - sitting smack in the middle of the "12" - at speed, engine turning a normal RPM, no excessive electrical loads turned on. Hmm...this is not normal... My volt gage is normally very consistent and actually quite accurate. SOOO - thankful that I looked at the gage and caught the problem while the battery was still charged and keeping everything going - I turned the Venture around and exchanged it for my Virago. No time to check anything out yet, but I noticed on the way home that the gage does dip below 12 when the engine is idling and climbs a tiny bit to the 12 when revved, which sounds just like years ago when the Virago had one of its stator coils short out - it kept charging just a tiny little bit, enough to keep the engine ignition working, but not enough to run the headlight. So I need to do the tests to confirm, but I need to know what's out there nowadays for stators. Is there still a company that makes an upgraded stator for the old Ventures? Jeremy
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I have a small oil leak. Attaching a few pics. The leak is coming what looks like a connector coming from just above the exhaust and the back side of the engine. There is a hose connected to this but it is leaking at the point it comes out of the engine. Sorry for the lack of technical expertise and hope the pictures explain what I have a hard time putting into words!!
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Whats the proper way of removing the 4 retangular engine side covers. They are the ones that go right on the outside of each Cylinders. I have one of those hand held impact drivers but am a bit concerned about the transfer of the impact from the hammer to the cylinder walls.
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I am trying to run my satellite radio and Garmin GPS off my aux. plug. I purchased a single to double plug but when i connect the GPS the radio's volume goes down to almost zero. I bought a "boostaroo" from Radio Shack which cures the radio problem but now the intereference from engine or ignition is also boosted to the point that the static is untolerable. Any suggestions?
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I finally got the LED's installed on my V Star. They were given to me at Vogel by Infonaut, aks Peter Harris from Philadelphia, Pa. Peter is going to be making up sets for bikes and hopefully selling them, and has also expressed interest in doing a maintaince day for LED's here in Newnan. If you contact him I am sure he can help you out big time. He gave me enough to do over my engine and then some but I only had enough connectors to do on length. That will likely change in the future as soon as I can buy some more. I posted some pics here and a short vid of them in action. These suckers are bring so good thing there is a dimmer on the remote.
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I have a ring problem with my 83 xvz12. Starting new thread on this. I put #2 cylinder at TDC and pressurized ( 5 to10 PSI) on that cylinder and could hear the air at the oil filler spout. Rechecked the compression on all cylinders and had 180psi on #1 , 80psi on #2, 150psi on #3 and 110psi on #4. By the time I buy new rings, gaskets, rework heads, check valve adjustment, etc.. It looks like I might be better to purchase used engine off Ebay and change out. I've spent too much time and hours on this bike to give up. The mechanic I had look at it recommended just keep riding it. It starts OK but when idleing will stumble several times and die and when under 3000RPM accelerating the engine belches several times. I've already replace plugs, wires and caps, new aftermarket TCI, replaced battery cables, repair brakes, new Deka battery, etc. Looking for some advice or really good deal on engine. -
I need some serious help. My boat has not run since 2000. My how time flies. Yep it has been 11 years since I’ve had my boat in the water. This is my boat story. I bought a new 20 foot 1988 Bayliner with a Chev 305 I/O. For 12 years my family were happy boaters. We skied, tubed, knee board, and fished. Got some great fishing stories? It was July summer of 2000. My family was on Alder Lake moving at about 35 mph when all of a sudden the engine quit like the emergency kill switch was pulled. The engine just died. No sputtering no back fire, no nothing, just died. I opened the hood and scratch my head. Hit the starter and it started right up. It ran great the rest of the day. At the end of the August 2000 we were again at Alder Lake. This time we anchored and the family swam and played all day. It was time to head home. Hit the starter and it would not start. No coughing, no back fire no nothing. The Engine turned over just fine, until the battery gave up. I got towed in. Got home, put the boat in the garage. The garage is heated with 2 house furnaces so I never winterized. I planned to work on the Boat that fall but never did. Oh and I did not know about Seafoam So now it is spring of 2001, May. I pulled the boat out and got it ready to start. Bingo on the 3rd hit to the started it came to life. I let it warm up to operating temperature. I shut it off and put it back into the garage. Taking the Boat to Lake Tapps I like always start the boat at home and get it all warmed up. I do this so I get my boat out away from the docks ASAPly. So other boater can waist everyone else’s time trying to get their engine started creating a dock jam. I’m on a plane moving at about 25 mph and loving it. But it wasn’t a minute later when I felt the oh so slightest of a partial engine miss.. It was so slight that only I noticed it. Then another miss, and then another and another. The miss became very noticeable to all. The missing got so bad that the boat could not be kept on a plane. I idled in gear back to the dock. Got the boat home and left it outside to work on a few days later. I’m back at the boat again now. I start the engine and it springs to life. I let it get to operating temperature Only this time I let the engine cont to run. Soon I felt that oh so slight of a miss. Soon the engine missed more. I gave it more throttle. The engine did pick up speed. But soon the engine revs began to surge. The revs slowed down then sped up on its own. Slowed down then speed up . This surging was on its on accord. After I last gave it more throttle I did not touch the throttle until it finally died. The surging was so definite. But when at the lowest rev of surging on last time the engine quit. At that point I could not get the engine started the rest of the summer I tried carb cleaner and that did not work. Well life goes on and soon it was fall and back the boat went into the garage. Next Spring I pulled the boat out again. Started right up. Then the missing reoccurred. The surging reoccurred. Once the engine died after the initial start of the year. I could not get the engine to start again. What it did do as the starter cranked. The engine acted like it waanted to start but just couldn't.. For it kinda of wanted to start but just could not get enough life to maintain on its own. I decided that I would rather put in new parts than to pay a shop to trouble shoot it.. So I did the following. 1) New spark plugs 2) New plug wires 3) New Points and Condenser 4) New rotor can cap 5) New coil 6) New internal carb filter 7) New fuel water separator 8) New Fuel pump 9) New rebuilt carb- 10) New fuel Still no luck I got so frustrated that I purchased a couple of used jet skis. That was a mistake for the boat, for now I have fewer reasons in getting the boat fixed. Soon the boat sat a couple of years in the garage. One year I took it to my auto mechanic. I told him this same story. He said lets convert it from points and condenser to electronic ignition. He did that and got it started but the missing and surging soon reappeared until it stop running, then he too could not get it started. He networked with his online auto mechanic but with no luck. He went through the entire fuel system and electrical and still no luck. Most recently he wants to pull the heads to see what might be going on there. Well he started to get behind on some of his other auto customers. So I took my boat back waiting for a better time for him. He did not charge me anything for he said that he did not fix it. So this is where I’m at. So are there any takers here in helping me resolve my Boat’s Chev 305 engine issue. If so before providing suggestions are there any questions that I can answer. .
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Can these engines be started on the bench. I know that a chevrolet engine can be started outside of the car, can ours? I am thinking of an 83-84 1200. Thanks Scot
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I have a problem somewhere in the ignition system of my 1983 Venture (not Royale) XVZ12TK. The bike starts and runs, but intermittently the engine stops firing. If this happens on the road at speed, it is only for a second or less, and the bike re-fires and runs. As this happens the tachometer swings way up, although this is a false indication, obviously, as the bike is in gear and the engine can't possibly be turning that fast. If I'm doing 60mph, the tach can go from 3500 when running to 8000 when the engine is not firing. If the problem happens when I'm stopped, it's easy to re-start. I think the problem is with the ignitor, a part between the magnetic distributor and the coils. I think this, because a lead comes from the ignitor output that goes to one of the coils, and this lead also goes to the tach. I took the bike down far enough to get to the ignitor and saw slight corrosion on some of the connector pins. Cleaned them off hoping this would fix the problem, but it didn't. New ignitors are 1200 bucks! and the bike is worth only half that at most. I found one that looks like mine on eBay for $90, but it's for a 1984. Don't know if there is a difference. Another in the same place is for a 1983, but it doesn't look the same. Anyone with insight, knowledge or even a stray though is encouraged to respond.
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Just bought it, has 43,00 miles and I have a couple of questions. The temp gage is not working, neither is the cruise. Found some good info on the sight regarding the cruise. Also the previous owner tells me he's never had any valve shim work done and was wondering if that should be done. The bike rides a bit rough and the gas mileage is around 30 mpg. I think it should be closer to 45, but not sure. Have to race the engine a bit to get going. I also own a 1982 CB900C that runs really smooth and almost takes off in 1st without giving any throttle (that's in high with the 10 speed trans). Any info would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
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well, i have close to 300 miles on my liner and thought i would share the pros and cons. this bike is one of yamahas best kept secrets. why they don't push and advertise some of there really good models more is a mystery to me. this has to be one of the best v-twin platforms ever for the ultimate touring bike. as archaic that i thought the engine was in this age of high tech engineering. it is one well engineered drive train package. it has the broadest powerband of any bike i have ever rode. stump puller off idle and just keeps on pulling. the transmission is smooth as glass with short throw, and positive engagemant. low speed parking lot handling is the best of any bike i have ever rode. it has an ultra low center of gravity, and perfect steering geometry. the high speed handling is excellent. the frame is rock solid with no flex or wallowing when pushed hard in the twisties. i felt at times i could drag my elbows. well almost, a guy can dream can't he. lol. the fit and finish is impeccable with just the right amount of chrome. it has a near 50-50 weight distribution front to rear. the dealer in indy just called and asked if i was satified. i dug down deep for the cons and here is all i could muster up. the wind shield sucks. too tall, and some buffeting on the high way. i will cut about 2" off and make some lowers to cure that. there is a mild vibration around 65-70 mph that may annoy some , but it is overall very smooth for a v-twin of this size. there is some engine and drive train noise at lower speeds that is greatly amplified by the wind shield. i think most of it is drive belt howl. the belt sounds a bit tight, from my previous experience with belt drives. i will check it. the ergonomics are fairly good. the driver seat so far seems very good. i have long arms and the bars are on the edge of being a bit to far forward to reach. overall i was very impressed with this bike and i just love it. i think with a trunk and the rest of the normal touring luxuries yamaha would have one hot touring bike to meet the competition, till they come out with their detuned v-max powered flagship tourer. i still think that is their plan if the economy ever picks up. by the way this strat s is one georgeous machine. bill
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A while back I remember a thread about a tachometer program for a pc that used a microphone to determine the rpm of and engine by listening to the sound of the engine. I had the program downloaded, but never got a chance to try it out before I lost it. Now I can not find it again for life of me. Does anybody remember it and know the link? Bill Never mind, I finally found it here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38904&highlight=tachometer+program
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Well I finally finished phase 1 of my tranny swap. A couple of weeks ago Jamie aka Wingman came over and helped me remove the engine from the frame, everything was already removed, all I had was the engine and frame. I really owe MasterGuns a big thank you for donating the 86 for the cause........THANKS GUNNY. After we got it up on the bench, we called it a day and today I finally got around to cracking the cases and looking inside the case. Everything looks really good to me but Im no expert but all the teeth look good and no wear showing. Next week I will move the 83 out to my shop and start disassembling it, That should take me a day or so, I need to be careful with it because it was just painted last year and dont want to mess that up. I was glad to have the 86 to go to school on, it will make it much easier to do the 83 when I get around to it. I did notice some changes to the 86 clutch that were made since 83. I was hoping to use the clutch plates on mine but may not be able to. [ATTACH]58138[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]58139[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]58140[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]58141[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]58142[/ATTACH]
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I have not started to look for the problem yet, but here are the symptoms. First off I have an 1985 royale with an 87 engine. Did the swap 4th of July weekend 2010 and the bike has run great. Now it starts and runs fine for cruising but when I get the rpms over 4500 it has no power. I used the carbs from the 1200 engine but with larger jets (same as the 1300 carbs would have). It has been running like this since I took it out this spring last year it ran fine. It seems like the timing is not advancing. Any suggestions would be great.
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Maybe it's just me, but my RSV runs sooooo much better after it's been cranked up to 70 - 80 mph for a little while. I ran the 230 miles up and back to Chattanooga today, and this bike just loves the high speeds on the interstate, and just felt like it had so much smooth power at the top end of 5th gear. I was already cruising at 75 when I needed to do a fast pass of an 18-wheeler, and when I hit the throttle, man it just flew in response. I really don't like interstate travel and don't do it much, so this feeling of power and acceleration isn't something I get to experience a lot. Is what I'm feeling at that speed related to ideal engine compression? I wish it performed that way at all speeds in all gears. What a rush!
