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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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I consider myself very good with these carbs but I have a problem that has me a little stumped. I was out of town for a week, came home, started the bike as usual, a little choke and she fired right up and sang like a bull gator. After she warmed up, choke off, sitting idling while on the side-stand, the idle started decreasing and fuel barely trickled out of the overflow and the engine died. The fuel stopped. Restarted and once at idle, same thing happened, smooth perfect throttle response, no other symptoms. Stood the bike upright, started it again and same thing happened at idle. With any throttle at all it is fine. I think you can rule out floats and needles as the fuel stopped when the engine died. I suspect it may be a pinhole in the #1 carb diaphragm but I am guessing that would not normally kill the engine. With extra fuel, I didn't have any rough engine run like I would have expected. This one has me guessing! I think I will order a new set of DS-1s as I have never replaced all of the diaphragms at the same time, only as needed and I am thinking that they stiffen with age and one could be stronger than another. All inputs are welcome!
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I will apologize right up front for anybody that I miss so please add to this list if you know of one that I've forgotten about. I want to thank those who donated prizes for our raffle at Maintenance Day though. You are all very much appreciated. Eusa1 - Diamond cut engine fins Baggershield - Adjustable windshield Carbon_One - Trailer Hitch Bob Myers - Delrin engine mounts Aussie Annie - Australian souvenirs Dingy - Sunglasses That crazy Stardbog even gave away two of his Heineken's. NOT a small thing to HIM. I want to thank my wife for picking up some small items for the ladies gift bags. I also threw in a VentureRider coffee mug, a VentureRider cap and some speakers to help sweeten the pot a bit. I know it wasn't much but I hope you all enjoy them. I KNOW that I'm missing somebody. Please let me know.
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I've only ever broken in ONE new engine in my life...so far. But I came across this article in the Wheels section of a newspaper and found it interesting. It might be wise to keep this in mind when breaking in your NEXT new engine. The sole purpose to the break-in procedure is to seal the piston rings to the cylinder walls. This can only happen with high combustion pressures, and these pressures happen when the engine is forced to accelerate under load. In a perfect world after a new engine is installed in a given vehicle, the vehicle should be driven on a vacant airport runway. The drive should consist of full throttle acceleration from a stop to approximately 60 km/h then brought down to about 15 km/h – with the throttle closed. Followed by another acceleration run to at least 60 km/h, followed by another deceleration to 15 km/h. This accelerate/decelerate process should go on for about 50 kilometres. During the acceleration period, the piston rings are forced squarely against the cylinder walls, which trues them to each respective cylinder. In effect, the rings will conform to the shape of the cylinder. The deceleration period creates a very low pressure in the cylinders (relative to the full power combustion pressures) and in the intake system. This low pressure is exposed to the cylinder valves and the oil that gathers in and around the valve guides. This low pressure (essentially a vacuum), draws this oil past the guides and into the engine cylinders. This helps lubricate the cylinder rings in excess of normal operation. The rings need extra lubrication because of the excess friction created by the break-in process.
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I have a 2007 venture.I have been wanting to upgrade the handlebars on my bike for sometime and came across a great deal from a member here and bought a set of Tour Deluxe bars to replace my stock ones. This past Saturday, I proceeded to swap everything out.This is when the nightmare began. When changing out the throttle cables, I opened up the junction box where all the cables come together, and the spring that is in there popped out and went in on top of the front of the engine and fell down like a plinko chip.I have removed the lower farings to get better access as well as remove the engine braces to be able to see better and still cannot find this spring.Tried a magnet on a telescoping pole and put it anywhere i could hoping the spring could be located.No luck.Tried using air compressor and blowing up in and around engine to maybe dislodge and fall out.No luck.I went online to order new one. I found part# and ordered one.$5.50 for spring and $9.95 to ship.I received e-mail today that says this spring is on back order until July 25 2012 or later. I called other Yamaha retailers and was told the same thing.One checked and said there was not one in any warehouse or dealership in the States or in Japan.I asked how that was possible,they still make this motorcycle.He said he did not know.He did say the junction box is exclusive to the Venture and Tour Deluxe and the 1st Generation Venture.Does any one have one thy can part with new or old,does not matter?I am desperate
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I need to replace my engine guards and saddlebag guards. I can't find the right part numbers. All I can find is beat-up take-offs. I'd prefer to not replace crash-damaged parts with scraped up guards. What other options do I have? Baron Customs? Someone triked a bike and has new saddlebag guards? Ideas? Dave
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I'm at a loss regarding the mounting of the left cowling! There is a mount tab at the bottom rear that does not match any mounting point on the frame??? It's in line with the removable brace which goes across the side of the engine but there aint nuthin there to bolt to. The left cowling and front "tie-in" were missing when I bought her. Help!! -
Yesterday I got ambitous after I got home from work, and went to working on the Venture out in the shop. I have ow got all the engine covers in place, shift linkage installed, carbs mounted and hooked up to the cables. One question, I am getting rid of the Yics chamber. I didnt have any vacum caps to put on the tubes coming out of the engine. I just the rubber hoses down and used them to cap of the tubes by connecting them to the one next to it. I read a post here somewhere where someone else did the same thing, my question is should the be connected to the cyl beside it or the opposing cyl. or does it really matter. Also I cant find the wire leads where the neutral swithch and the oil pressure/level wire plugs in to the system, where can I find the leads that they plug into..................I have looked and looked but cant find them and dont remember where they should be.:confused24:
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I have a brother that just purchased a very well taken care of '86 Goldwing. It puffs some blue smoke at cold start-up for a few seconds. He was told to try Bars Leaks engine stop leak with conditioner. He's wondering if it will mess with the clutch plates. With the wealth of knowledge on this site, maybe you'd have some comments. Thanks Ventureriders. Brian in Mankato, MN 2000 RSV
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Here are the engine cases painted black. I am leaving the rest of the engine original. The cases will show more that the engine anyway so no need it spending more time painting. I am not quite finished with the chrome covers, need to fill in the painted areas and polish some more. Note one says 1300, the cover from my 83 had the chrome peeling so this one was much better. [ATTACH]66678[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66679[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66680[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66681[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66682[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66683[/ATTACH]
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I'm having a problem with my bike pulling to the left when I let go of the handle bars. I wanted to search the problem before I made a post asking about it. For the first search I entered "bike pulls to the left" The search engine returned a list starting with this http://www.raymondstacy.com/search.jpg OK. Nothing good there Then I enter "pulling to the left" The search engine returned a list starting with this http://www.raymondstacy.com/search1.jpg Again no good. Finally I decide to do a new thread about the pulling and when I start the thread I get some great leads that I didn't see in the previous search. At least two of the suggestions had to do with the bike pulling left. http://www.raymondstacy.com/search3.jpg I remember a thread telling us how to use the search engine. So I enter "Search help" The search engine returned a list starting with this http://www.raymondstacy.com/search2.jpg It has been my experience that the the new thread suggestion are better than the search engine. I'm sure that it is me. What am I doing wrong???
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I big trike with (I presume) small block chevy engine. And 'surprise' the city has added some motorcycle parking.
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Well spent most of the day out in the shop with K-Rider, we made good headway on the engine teardown and tranny swap. Got the 83 engine all apart got the tranny out of it and out of the 86 donor motor. Gene had to leave early, so I finally got it into the 83 cases, wasnt easy by myself but finally got in in and started closing up the cases. We found a bunch of metal shavings in the bottom of the engine, those had to be left over from when the pinion gear got all tore up. We think we got it all out, I forgot to bring the little baggy in, so I will post pictures of it tomorrow. It was amazing how big some of the metal was. I had to order all the gaskets but forgot one, have to go back and order the water pump cover gasket, also ordered the new fusebox upgrade from Skydoc. Lookin forward to getting back on board the Venture.
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Is it normal to hear ,what sounds like a chain sound, when i compress the clutch lever at a stop. Maybe that sound is there everytime i pull the lever but i only notice it when i am stopped. Is there an adjustment for the cam chain or whatever chain is inside the engine. Just want to make sure that it wont be an issue before my cross country trip. Al
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ok before I ask I already feel really stupid..... When checking the engine oil onmy 06 thru the little sight window should the oil level be between the lines when it is leaning on the stand or when the bike is straight up and down ? I am going to assume until one of you guys enlighten me that it is while on the stand...since you can't hold the darn thing up whilst standing on your head to see the window hidden behind the frame tube. Thanks for the help....more dumb questions to come. Kenny
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I searched the site for information on VR engine oil and came up with nothing! Where did this stuff go? I know I have seen many threads on this hot topic . . . Anyway, I have a question. The manual says to use; SAE 10-30 type SE when not operating above 60 degrees F SAE 20-40 type SE when not operating below 40 degrees F We get to operate from 10 to 110 in Oklahoma. What are you North Texas boys running? -
Pegscraper brought this up on another thread and I thought this would be a good discussion. In 2010 it looks like there couls be a totally new redesign for the Venture. Speculation is that at its heart will be the new V-Max engine in some form of detune , probably with strong low and mid range. The V-max engine is Fuel Injected. The question is will it reall make the engine and bike more effecient or is carburetor technlogy still viable? I used to work for Delphi where we delevoped the Efi for Harley. All indications so far are that the Harley engine start quicker with no warm up neccesary and that the engines actually run smoother and have better throttle response. Plus new Fly-by-wire technology is all the rage F.I .is needed to go to that step. ? What do you think?
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Question for the Venture Gurus How should I store the parts bike engine? I'm going to build a crate for it & remove the carb bank. How should I store the engine? with oil in the crackcase? with the stator attatched? and so on... I appreciate the suggestions. It's has 60K on it. It will probably be a rebuild project once I move to Tn. Right now its just sitting in the frame w/o wiring.
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Does anyone know the actual name and part number for what we call the dogbones on the engine. The pieces that have to be taken off to replace the spark plugs. I torqued mine at 30 lb, but do not know for sure if that is right. For I do not know the actual name of the part and have not found it on the schematic here. Thanks, Fuzzy
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I have a 2006 RSV with 42,000 miles. Bike is in great shape and only problem I am having is my choke lever no longer stays on its own. I have to hold the lever out until engine is warmed up. Any suggestions on how to fix this would be appreciated!
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Hi all, my question is why would my #1 cyl run cooler than the rest of the other cylinders? Had the carbs sycn., with the engine warmed up cyl #2,3,&4 runs about 185 to 200 degrees while #1 runs about 170. It idles ok, runs revs up ok. I have not done anything to the carbs. The cyl takes longer to warm up than the others. I have put new plugs and caps & sycn the carbs. Any suggestions or leave it be.
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We got this bike in late December, and got it ready to ride by Jan.1. Got it with 28 miles, now it has 3500 miles. So far I have changed engine oil 3 times. The first was when we got it, second at 700 miles, then at 3000 to Shell T6 full synthetic. At 3K I also went to shell synthetic gear lube out back. It seems to me that even before the switch to synthetic oils, I could feel the Venture loosen up. I think I actually felt it "break in". At first it felt kind of tight, and after I revved it, the rpms would drop back too soon. Now it feels like the sky's the limit with engine speed. Has anyone else noticed this "loosening up"? What a great feeling. Man, this thing flies.
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Can't seem to find a thread on this. Does anyone use engine ice as their coolant in the RSV?
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I am going to be stripping & cataloging the parts bike. The engine has 60K mile & I would like to remove it, crate it & store it for future rebuild. What is the best way to get it out of the frame. My available lifting tools are a car floor jack. car transmission jack, a bottle jack, as well as a full car engine crane. Now on my 81 CB750 I found the easiest way to remove the engine was to remove all the mounts on the left side, lay her down & remove the right motor mounting points. When I lift the frame up, the engine is sitting nicely on the floor w/o a problem. I read Scott MacMartin's write up http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39013 but it really doesn't clarify the actual removal. So to the ones on here who have pulled their Gen1 engines, how did you do it?
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New Member from Australia
Bear1300 posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hi All, I have introduced myself in the new members section so i wont bore you again. To the questions! I am picking up my 96 Royal Star tomorrow and am looking at ways to unleash the beast being a serial modder like i am! way the reviews read you would think the poor bike could not pull the head off a custard its supposedly so underpowered. However i dont expect it to be anywhere near that bad. I suspect its just a bunch of harley riding journos who arent actually used to a bike that actually revs out! My plan of attack is 4 into 4 slipons( it is bone stock!) dyna 3000 ignition, big air kit , vmax cams and springs and 32mm carbs. I might look at the Vmax rear hub as well but i would prefer to see how it pulls after the engine mods first. Now the issues! 4 into 4 pipes seem non existent now. Am i best off finding some generic aftermarkets and fabbing some mounts? Also can the cams and springs be swapped without removing the engine? Any help appreciated. Great to be here. -
I see that some members are adding as per instructions from the mg. of seafoam 1&1/2 oz. per qt. in with the oil to clean up the sludge in the engine. My question is do you leave the seafoam in for 5000 miles or until the oil is dirty or do you run the engine a short time and immediately remove the seafoam and oil replacing same.?? DanC
