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VR Assistance

  1. ......how to check the engine oil level, in my '83 VR. I had heard, somewhere, that there was a little window where the level of the engine oil could be viewed. I have looked all over the sides of my bike, but could find nothing of the sort. I have also been moving back & forth through the downloaded service manual but, alas, there was nothing to be found. Even a search through the PDF reader failed to pull anything up (though I am sure that it must be in there, somewhere). I really need to know how to check the engine oil level, and would appreciate someone outlaying the blueprint for me - OR, directing me to the page where I could find what I am looking for, in the service manual. Advanced thanks.
  2. I have a strange rattle in my engine. When the bike is tilted to the left, while on the side stand, there is a rattle. When I pull the bike up straight, the rattle goes away. Anyone got any suggestions on what you think this may be? It has been doing it for quite a while. When I had the collector off the other day, I could not tell if there were any baffles loose in it. RandyA
  3. See my other thread... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12150
  4. My 84 was in storage for 12 years. It runs strong with no second gear issues but I do have a oil leak somewhere. It seems to be dripping a little down on the collector. The motor uses no oil and only has 22K on it. I have an 89 engine complete minus starter with only 15k. Should I change out the motors to avoid the 2nd gear issue that may show up later. This swap would fix the oil issue as well. Is this a plug and play exchange or are the carbs different. The 84 probably has the plastic impeller on the water pump as well. I might decide to keep the 89 engine until I loose second gear later then swap it out. The engine cases are a lot cleaner on the 89 compared to the 84.I think the head wrench at Skid's garage could handle this job.
  5. Hi, I need to consult with an engine expert for my '84 standard, have we got any in the house? I have some engine misfiring going on. It has just started again today but late last year I had it happen at about the same time my stator coil failed. I fixed the stator got back full system volts and all had been good, till today. I figured the misfires were caused by a CDI not getting full volts. When it happens, I feel a slight drop in power in the seat of my pants and I see a quick dip on the tach. I think I read somewhere that cyl #2 is the one that the tach signal is derrived from. Have I got this right? Can I take this as a clue that cyl #2 is my offender? The other clue is that this seems to happen as the engine is warming up. Once I have gone a few miles, the misfires seem to go away. This makes me think it might be a connection issue somewhere that makes better contact as things warm up. My question of course is where to start looking? I fear that this might be a CDI problem. I understand there is someone around who rebuilds / repairs them. Who is that and what does "rebuild / repair" actually mean? Just in case and for diagnostic purposes, I have just bought a CDI on ebay. Might be useful. BTW, I am still loosing a little coolant too and its still a mystery where its going. Could be a head gasket but I am not convinced. I suspect the crankcase vent system myself. She just rolled over 42,600 miles today. I know it sounds like she has a lot of problems but she runs great for the mostpart and I really like the old gal. I don't have much $ invested and I like to do the work myself so even if I have to take her to pieces & put her back together again, its OK by me if I can make the fix. I'd like to figure it all out first before I go in. So, bring on the sage advice. Thanks, Brian H.
  6. Is it possible to remove and install the rear head of a 1st gen 1200 without removing the engine from the frame?
  7. Yesterday as first time on the second year I have the bike, I noticed that there was some oily cover on the area of the rear fender close to the plate holder. Is the rubber hose that is on the area comming from the engine or some other part? I never noticed that before, but is this a meaning the the engine is sending oil out? or this is normal for the bikes? Thanks for any opinions, :detective:
  8. I have an 06 RSV with 6 K miles, it has started making a taping sound like lifters tapping almost to the point of a light knocking sound when you first start it up. After a minute it goes away. Is this just normal for this engine? I like this bike but it has the noisest engine of any motorcycle I have owned. Between this tapping noise and the 70MPH wine. I am running 10W40 Synthitic oil, should I run 20W50 instead? Thanks for your help. Dandy1
  9. I'm just wondering if all of your 06rstd's/ventures have a whirring sound like a jet engine when you roll the throttle? I was out Saturday and parked beside a venture that didn't have that sound. Mine has, since it was bought new last August. I thought it was due to the 4 cylinders? Milage and acceleration are both great but definitely doesn't have a V-twin sound. Should I be worried? What can you yama-experts tell me?
  10. This should be posted under Most Embarassing Moments. Anyone have a valve cover they can sell me and ship to Prince Edward Island Canada asap. I was installing the engine on my 84 after doing the 2nd gear repair and it rolled off my jack and cracked the front valve cover. I got the engine in OK after that noticed the crack when I started bolting the side rail on. I want to put the rest of the bike together next weekend and so I'm looking for help. There are some on ebay so I can try that if no one here has one. Thanks Ventureriders.
  11. Synchronizing The Carburetors WARNING! Please be aware that the Yamaha Service Manual has the procedure for syncing the carburetors WRONG. The manual indicates that screw 1 is used to sync carb 1 to carb 2 and that screw 3 is used to sync carb 3 to carb 2. That is opposite of what it should be. The following is the correct procedure. NOTE: Prior to synchronizing the carburetors, the valve clearance and the engine idling speed should be properly adjusted and the ignition timing should be checked. 1. Stand the motorcycle on a level surface. NOTE: Place the motorcycle on a suitable stand. 2. Remove vacuum plugs. 3. Install: Adapters Vacuum gauge (Fig.2) Engine tachometer (Fig.2) to the spark plug lead of cyl. #1. Vacuum gauge: YU-08030-A, 90890-03094 (These are Yamaha part numbers. Any suitable mercury sticks, or other suitable gauges are just fine) Engine tachometer: YU-08036-A, 90890-03113 (Yamaha part numbers. Any suitable tachometer will work. A tachometer is not absolutely required 4. Start the engine and let it warm up for several minutes. 5. Check engine idling speed. If out of specification, adjust to 950 to 1050 RPM. Refer to "ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING SPEED". in your service manual 6. Adjust carburetor synchronization. A. (Fig.3) Synchronize carburetor #1 to carburetor #2 by turning the synchronizing screw (3) in either direction until both gauges read the same. NOTE: After each step, rev the engine two or three times, each time for less than a second, and check the synchronization again. B.Synchronize carburetor #4 to carburetor #3 by turning the synchronizing screw (2) in either direction until both gauges read the same. NOTE: Turning screw clockwise raises carburetor #4 and lowers carburetor #3. C. Synchronize carburetor #2 to carburetor #3 by turning the synchronizing screw (1) in either direction until both gauges read the same. NOTE: Turning screw clockwise raises carburetor #3 and lowers carburetor #2. Vacuum pressure at engine idling speed is 37 kPa (280 mmHg). NOTE: The difference in vacuum pressure between two carburetors should not exceed 1.33 kPa (10.0 mmHg, 0.4 inHg). 7. Check engine idling speed. If out of specification, adjust. 8. Stop the engine and remove the measuring equipment. Yamaha then recommends the following. 9. Adjust: Throttle cable free play Refer to "ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE CABLE FREE PLAY". Throttle cable free play (at the flange of the throttle, grip) 4 - 6 mm (0.16 - 0.24 in) 10. Install vacuum plugs.
  12. I took the day off to continue my beak in -- wanted to get to 400 today - I did. I stopped 1 mile from my house to fill up -- D E A D battery when I tried to start -- just a very small hum/click. Orange light on left console for CHECK ENGINE etc. Nice enough guy at the station came out with a portable charger -- took 3 tries but we got it and I;m home. Now what -- obviously going to my dealer on Tue when he opens, closed today. Do ya think this just was not chareged correctly at set up? Opinions/suggestions appreciated, DREBBIN UPDATE TUE 30 JAN -- I was the only "ride in" to service today and therfore the first in line; actually, I was the line (LOL) VERY POSITIVE experience at the dealer -- there were lots of raised eyebrows when they saw me there. Bottom line -- the lead tech (who has an excellent rep in this area) said the batt cables were not tight enough for his standards. Then he did a load test. With engine running (sitiing still), brights on AND passing lamps on it was at 13.25. I bough a battery charger and we installed the harness for it too. Due to the fine advice herein we also ordered the Kury voltmeter. He also said these engines do not need to get at a certain RPM to charge the system. He did say that the more speed you do the more the magnets fire the better the charging, etc. So, as of 1200 my time, it is hooked up in my garage with a red charging light -- let's see how long it takes to get to solid green. Great site, good people, I look forward to buying ya'll BBQ!!! DREBBIN
  13. Really guys, I'm not a whiner, just trying to edumacate myself here --- I came home today to test the RSV start up and battery: 1. Turned ignition to ON (used Squeeze suggestion too!) 2. Amber ck engine light came on for 2 seconds and went off 3. Hit the starter -- red coolant and oil lights came on and went off as soon as starter was released. According to the manual, the Amber ck engine light shld come on AS THE STARTER IS PUSHED -- not when the ignition is turned to on. The bike is turning over right away and idling nicely. Soooo......? What's up with the amber light coming on with the ignition and not with the starter? Thnx for your patience and help, DREBBIN
  14. Folks, I ride an '03 Venture. After some work on the lower part of the engine (can you say new clutch) I noticed a "flat" spot at about 70mph where the engine feels like its grinding something up. it goes away and the normal "Mr. Smoothe" of my wonderful engine comes back. Anyone else get this feeling?
  15. Carburetor maintenance I have used this procedure for over 15 years on all types of carburetors from lawn mowers to high performance cars and have always had good results as long as the carburetor was in good mechanical order. Cleaning the carburetors will not help a carburetor with a worn nozzle or a leaky diaphragm on a slide. The carburetor cleaner I use is berryman b-12 chemtool in the spray can and the pint size can, but any good carburetor cleaner should work if you can get it in a spray and pint can. Cleaning the carburetors Place the bike on the center stand and remove the cover of the air cleaner and the filter exposing the top of the carburetors, start the engine and open the throttle to make sure the slides are all moving; if one or more of the slides fails to move you may have a broken diaphragm or a clogged jet. Use the spray can to clean the insides of the carburetors spraying into the jets at the top and the throat of the carburetors . If the engine stalls restart and continue until it looks clean. Replace the filter and cover, now turn the gas tank valve to the off position and restart the engine and run it until it stops. Remove the supply hose (top hose) from the fuel pump and replace it with a suitable sized hose long enough to reach the ground and put it into the pint can of cleaner. Now turn the key on and allow the fuel pump to fill the carburetors before trying to start the engine. (note the fuel pump has a safety feature and you may have to turn the key off and on until the pump fills the carburetors) Start the engine using the choke to keep the engine running about 1000 rpm and allow it to run for about 5 min., then go get a cup of coffee or clean the outsides of the carburetors to use up the can of spray, waiting about 20 min. Restart the engine and (*) use the throttle to increase the rpm and work all the moving parts of the carburetors, the run for 4 min. and wait for another 20 min. if you used the spray on the outside of the carburetors be sure to re- oil the moving parts with a light machine oil and if all of the slides worked when you tested them you can re connect the fuel line while your waiting. when the time has past you can turn the gas valve to the on or reserve position and open the drain valves on the carburetors (lower right on each carburetor) when the carburetors are empty close the valves and turn the key on to fill the carburetors with fuel. also if you are storing the bike for the winter you could drain the carburetors and not restart the engine. (*)IF one or more of the slides did not move when you tested them you should re-test them at this time by removing the air cleaner cover and filter and watching the slides. If one of them are still not moving, note the problem slide and turn off the engine. Remove the cover plate and inspect the diaphragm then carefully remove the spring and slide from the carburetor. Before continuing we suggest you use eye protection. You will see a jet in the upper right side of the opening place the nozzle of the spray can against this jet cover the opening with your hand so that the excess spray won't get in your eyes and give it a good shot; cleaner should come out of the top of the carburetor. if it seems clear then wipe off the slide and the hole it came out of and reassemble the slide making sure that you replace the diaphragm exactly as you found it! Fred J. Vogt Throttle cables The throttle cables on the Venture can cause you some grief if they brake on your vacation or even on a 100 mile Sunday ride if your 50 miles from home. There are four cables that are used to control the carburetors and they use a push/pull method; that is they use a positive return on the throttle that dose not rely on the return spring to shut down the carburetors. there is a fifth cable that is used by the Venture curse which will disable the curse if it fails. all five cables connect together at the control box and you can view it by looking up behind the left hand fairing at the front of the bike. I have not found a way to replace these cables with out removing the left fairing, radio and the black plastic shield behind the radio. This could be done with the tools in the tool kit supplied with your Venture, so you could repair the cables if you had a spare. Although any of the five cables could brake, most of the failures I have heard of are the two cables that connect the hand throttle to the control box. these cables normally fail at the hand throttle on the handle bars because they are worked more and are exposed to water and dust, more then the ones at the control box because the cables are in side. If the return cable brakes it will not stop you, but you will notice that the Engine will lose RPMs slower than normal and the hand throttle will feel funny. Maintenance of the cables is simple and should be done every 10,000 miles or once a year. To check and oil the throttle cables disassemble the hand throttle, clean and use A drop of light machine oil (sewing machine oil) work it in and reassemble the throttle. Just in case you have a problem before you get a chance to check the cables here are some thoughts on how to get home or to a repair shop. You could use the choke lever to increase the RPMS then get the bike over 35 mph, set the curse and use it to increase your speed. You could also get the MTS towing package offered through MTA and be only a phone call away from help. Fred Vogt MTA 1037
  16. I've seen some posts dissing the Supertech oil filter, so I decided to tear a new one apart for my own peace of mind. What I found was a surprisingly good filter for the $2.29 you pay at Walmart. This filter has all of the right parts in a well made package. See the pictures below for details. What you get for you money: A good anti-drain back valve. This is important in our bikes for two reasons: one, the filter is mounted horizontally. If the anti-drain back valve fails then dirty oil can leak back into the crankcase. Second, if the oil drains out of the filter then the engine oil pump has to fill the filter before it starts pumping oil to the engine at startup. The anti-drain back valve in the ST7317 was well made of a flexible nitrile material. The paper filter element had 43 pleats that were evenly distributed, except where the seam was. This gives about 86 square inches of filter material. For a comparison to other filters check out this link http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters The top and bottom of the filter element are metal. The filter element was sealed and glued at both ends. I've heard some manufacturers use a paper end on the filter element. I guess this is OK if you have a good bypass valve arrangement. This filter needs the metal end for the bypass valve to seal to. The filter I opened had a very normal coil spring bypass valve on the top of the filter element. This is more than adequate to protect your engine from lack of lubrication in the event of a clogged filter. By the way, if this feature gets used frequently in your oil filter you need to either let your bike warm up longer before you redline it, or change your oil more often. The filter gasket was smooth with no defects.So here is my challenge: if you have a different filter you like, tear it up and post some pictures. Lets see how they stack up.
  17. 1984 Yamaha Venture Second Gear Repair NOTE: The 2nd gear problem was fixed in 1985 after serial number 0001413 Part 1 Engine Removal http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic1.jpgFirst Step - Strip off the fairings and luggageAbout 2 years ago I purchased a 1984 Yamaha Venture Royale. It was in great shape with 60,000 Km on the clock. It seemed mechanically sound and with a few minor repairs was a great runner, fast, powerful, comfortable and surprisingly agile for a big bike. I managed to put on another 30,000 km, including a trip from Vancouver, BC to Ottawa, Ontario in the summer of 2000. I found the Venturers web site in February of 1999 and promptly joined and it became a goldmine of information as I learned about my trusty steed. One of the common problems found on the 83 to 85 Ventures was a failing second gear. I kept hearing of this problem but continued to see no evidence of the problem on my bike. I kept my fingers crossed that the problem wouldn't crop up as it seemed a huge problem to tackle. I had heard of other Venture owners either riding the bike without any second gear for long periods, or giving up and parting bikes out rather than repairing them. One Venturer, Scott MacMartin, had done his second gear repair several years ago and he had posted a parts list on his personal website. He also had a more recent parts list contributed by another member. The list seemed formidable. I kept hoping mine wouldn't develop the problem. Finally the inevitable. My second gear started to skip under full throttle in September 2000. I nursed it along, keeping a light throttle hand through to the end of riding season. Coincidentally, Scott updated his website in September with a pictorial description of a repair to his main clutch bearing. While not aimed directly at the second gear repair, he showed a number of great tips that would help in the repair. I had a shop manual and after studying it for hours and repeatedly checking Scott's site I decided to tackle the problem over the coming winter. I figured I might save money on parts if I got to it before the gear failed completely. Also, I didn't think I could get much selling the bike without 2nd gear, nor did I want to keep riding it without 2nd. Hell, 2nd is my favorite gear. Like a lot other first generation Venture owners, I had come to really like this bike, it's a real runner. At any rate, I kept a log during the teardown and took a number of photos, with the idea that they might be of assistance in reassembly in case I ran into any problems. After getting most of the work done, I decided to try putting this into a web page with the idea of helping other Venture owners gain the confidence to tackle this job. I am not a professional mechanic therefore, anything I write here is simply my own experience with this repair. My only intention is to pass on some information and knowledge to other Venture owners who may wish to attempt this repair. Think of it as preserving the breed. Don't take this project on lightly, but is within the grasp of a good home mechanic. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic2.jpgEngine Cleaned up prior to dis-assembly.http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic3.jpgBattery, Carbs, Radiator and Exhaust removed. I'm basically a lazy mechanic. I hate trying to fight my way around things. I'd rather take the time to properly gain access as it makes it easier in the long rub. I started by removing all the luggage, fairing, auxilliary lights, horns, etc to get proper access. A simple technique I've learned is to clean parts as I take them off and put fasteners for each component in a zip-lock bag. The bag is labled and kept with the component ready for reassembly. It's a lot easier to sort through a half-dozen parts at a time rather than a few hundred at a time. Especially if your project takes a number of weeks. I then washed the motor and frame to get rid of as much grease and grime as possible prior to dismantling. (I use Simple Green and a brush as degreaser.) I then warmed the bike up thoroughly to dry things out. With the bike still warm, I drained the oil and removed the oil filter. The battery was then removed and the carb float bowls drained. The engine coolant was then drained. Don't forget to drain the cylinder heads. There are plugs behind the chrome inserts on the side of each cylinder. The air cleaner box and carbs were next off. I found that the drain hose on the air cleaner was loose on mine. The hose drains off residue from the crankcase ventilation. With it disconnected it had sprayed all over my carbs. A few hours of cleaning was required. The crankcase ventilation hose was hardened and cracked during removal. The first item for the parts list. Clean rags were stuffed into the intake manifolds, to remain there for the duration of the repair process. Next to go were the bypass hose, YICS chambers, and Air Baffle plates. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic4.jpgHeader Pipes, Drive Shaft and Side Rails gone. The radiator and coolant hoses were removed next along with the footpeg assemblies and the middle gear case cover. I then disconnected the AC Generator leads, neutral switch lead, and pick up coil lead. The clutch slave cylinder was loosened and the hose left connected. I wanted to avoid having to bleed the clutch fluid again as I had done that recently. Not a great plan. I found during engine removal that it would have been easier to disconnect the hose and remove the engine with the slave cylinder in place. The mufflers were then removed. The rear wheel was removed and the drive shaft taken out. I then remounted the rear drive and wheel as I wanted to be able to move the bike around when the engine was out. The front exhaust headers were removed as well as the baffle chamber under the engine. The rear exhaust header was loosened. It would come out when the engine did. I unbolted the rear brake master cylinder and reservoir as instructed in the manual. Again, I was trying to avoid a brake bleeding. However, the clearance was such that I ended up taking them right off to get the engine out anyway. Might as well have done so from the start and saved some sweat. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic5.jpgEmpty Frame - Side Rail removed. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic6.jpgDr. John smiling after a successful engine-ectomy. The right lower side rail was then removed and with a wheeled floor jack supporting the engine and the help of a couple of friends we managed to wrestle the engine out. A couple of points. The shift mechanism had to be disconnected to enable the clutch slave cylinder to come free. It would have been easier to disconnect the hydralic line and remove the slave cylinder with the engine. Also we tried to turn the engine out of the frame. We ended up removing the rear brake master cylinder and reservoir as well as the rear cylinder valve cover to get enough clearance to lift the rear mounting bolts clear of their frame slots. Once clear of the frame we carefully lifted the engine onto a wheeled cabinet. With the engine safely out of the bike, I was ready to move on to phase two of the project! Part 2 Dismantling the Engine http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic7.jpgEngine Inverted - Crankcase covers and Oil Pan removed. With the engine successfully removed from the frame, I was ready to dig in to see what was wrong. The next few hours were spent thoroughly cleaning the engine exterior, top and bottom. It was time well spent as it made disassembly a much more pleasant job. The added benefit is that it's a lot easier to keep dirt and grime out of the engine if it is clean to begin with. The thermostat housing was then removed followed by the starter motor. Both of these parts could have been removed prior to removing the engine. This would have given a lot more clearance. I will not put them back on until the engine is back in the frame. The next step was to remove the left crankcase cover. The starter gear train is then loose and it comes out easily. The right crankcase cover (clutch) was next. As I had changed out the clutch plates and springs the year before, this was quite straight forward. The plates were stacked and wrapped. The clutch pushrods were then removed. Be careful to catch the ball bearing that resides between the two pushrods. A tip from Scott's website helped in getting the clutch lock nut off. You need a special tool to hold the clutch boss while loosening (or re-torquing) the lock nut. Scott used a 2x6 with a couple of brackets to hold the boss and a hole to allow the socket to go through. It works great! You'll need a 30mm socket for the job however. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic8.jpgThe clutch assembly is gone. The Oil Pump assembly and Water Pump are gone too. With the clutch assembly out the way, you'll need to remove the oil pump driven gear. Ring clip pliers are required. The water pump assembly is next. I understand the water pump originally came with a plastic impeller. It cracks with age and the upgraded part is metal. I was pleasantly surprised to find that someone had been here before. I was prepared to upgrade the impeller while it was apart but now didn't have to. Before carrying on, I spent considerable time removing all traces of gasket material from the side crankcase covers, the water pump and the crankcase itself. A bit of steel wool works great on the stubborn spots. I then inverted the engine and thoroughly cleaned the bottom side. The oil pan came off next. The oil pump assembly comes out with three bolts. I originally didn't plan to dismantle it but after a word with my friendly local bike shop I pulled it apart to inspect for scoring on the pump impellor surfaces. Clean as a whistle and quite easy to put back together. The main oil gallery was removed as an assembly. Be sure to make sure all the oil seals come out with the gallery. Note: One of the gallery bolts is also one of the lower crankcase bolts (#20) and should be installed and torqued in the proper sequence upon reassembly. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic9.jpgThese are the lower crankcase bolts laid out in order of removal from left to right.http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic10.jpgThe lower crankcase has been lifted off the inverted engine. The crankcase bolts are numbered. There are 36 of them and it is extremely important that they be reinstalled and torqued in the proper sequence. Taking them out in reverse sequence allows you to lay them out in order saving considerable confusion and time when reassembling. Start by turning the engine right side up and removing starting with #36 which is also the ground strap bolt. A nice touch on the Venture is that all 36 are actually marked right on the crankcase assembly. (Bolts # 31, 30, 28 & 27 will loosen but you cannot take them out with the cylinder heads still in place. Just let them hang loose, as they will not get lost.) (Note, in my shop manual the illustration on page 3-22 shows the crankcase tightening sequence. Unfortunately, the diagram captions are reversed with the lower crankcase labeled the upper crankcase and vice- versa.) The clutch bearing retainer needs to be removed prior to separating the crankcase. This retainer has large phillips head screws which will require an impact driver to loosen. I hadn't used one of these since owning a 1970 Kawasaki 90 many moons ago. On that bike, every screw was a phillips head and you couldn't do anything without an impact driver. I had to go an buy one. The middle gear bearing retainers also have to be removed prior to separating the cases. This retainer uses Torx 40 fasteners. I bought a Torx 40 socket for the job. (If I keep tackling these jobs, I'll eventually end up owning every tool known to man. Is that a bad thing?) The three bolts holding the collapsible collar holding the driven pinion gear will also have to be removed prior to separating the cases. Be careful not to bend the thin shims behind this collar. Since I will not be changing any parts on the pinion gears, I plan to re-use the shims and believe that the gear lash will not be disturbed. I did not disassemble the U-joint assembly. With all fasteners off it was surprisingly easy to separate the crankcase assembly. A couple of taps with a rubber mallet and off it came. A couple of hours were spent cleaning the residue from the crankcase mating surfaces. The next step was diagnosing the problem. Part 3 Diagnosis & Repair of Transmission http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic11.jpgLower crankcase with Main and Driven Axles in place and shift forks engaged.Since this was the first time I had taken a motorcycle transmission apart, I placed the two transmission shafts into the lower crankcase, with the shift forks properly engaged on the gears and I spent a fair amount of time manually moving the shift cam through the gears. The picture at left shows the main axle assembly above and the drive axle assembly below. If you can make out the numbers in the picture, 1, 2, and 3 point to the three shift forks. Turning the main axle by hand, you can shift through all the gears manually. It doesn't take a long time to get a clear understanding of how power is transferred in each gear. It also became very apparant as to what the problem was. Even though there was very little wear on the second gear dogs or gears, when in second gear, the gear dogs were only overlapping by a millimeter or so. With the large torque in 2nd gear, the gear assembly would put a tremendous amount of sideways force on the shift fork allowing the gear (#1) to move to the left and jump a cog or two. When the shift fork was inspected it did turn out to be bent. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic14.jpgShift Forks and Shift Cam The picture at right shows the shift cam and shift forks. The #1 shift fork (2 in picture) was slightly bent and required replacement. The shift fork shaft can also bend from the stresses of skipping. To check it, remove it and roll it across a mirror or plate glass. Any bend should show up clearly. Mine was OK as was the shift cam, probably because the problem had just started. The shift cam (#1 in picture) needs to be carefully inspected for wear in the groove that the #1 shift fork rides in. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic12.jpgHome made press for dismantling the Driven Transmission ShaftThe homemade press at left was suggested by Scott MacMartin on his web page and it worked beautifully. It is constructed from 2x6 and large screws. The floor jack compresses the spring and forces the center of the shaft up into the hole in the middle section (arrow) and allows you to remove the thrust washers. The next picture clearly illustrates the basic problem. The wear on the old thrust washer (#2) is evident as is the wear on the slot on the transmission shaft. The combination produces the gap (#1) in the slot. This gap allows the whole shaft to shift inboard reducing the overlap of the 2nd gear dogs. Once it gets to a critical point, the gear is forced sideways by the torque allowing it to skip. This sideways force will eventually cause the shift fork to bend. It also would cause the fork to wear the groove in the shift cam. The bent fork and wear on the shift cam would further reduce the overlap on the gear dogs until there is no second gear at all. Note the plug (#3) in the photo. When I ordered the new Drive Axle, the plug didn't come with it. It could be easily overlooked when reassembling. Without the plug, there would be no oil pressure inside the Drive Axle, hence very little if any oil getting to the gear surfaces. Be sure to order this as a separate part as the old one will not fit properly in the new shaft. I was able to continue with reassembly while waiting for this plug as it is easily popped in after the engine crankcase is put back together as it is on the outboard side of the shaft. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic13L.jpgHere's the basic problem. I ordered a 2nd/5th gear kit which included two pinion gears and two wheel gears. These were substantially different than the originals and I'm told that these are updates that have been made over the years on the Venture and V-Max models. They did provide a lot more gear overlap for both 2nd and 5th and looked sturdier and wider. They fit perfectly. I also replaced the Drive Axle, thrust washers, as well as the 2nd gear shift fork. If your 2nd gear has worn to the point where it isn't there at all, you will likely need the shift cam and shift fork shaft as well. I also replaced just about every gasket and oil seal I could find. (A complete parts list is posted on the last page.) As a side note, virtually all of these parts have been upgraded or superceded several times over the years. The Drive Axle for example is the fifth version of this and there are several subtle differences in the oil paths but it does fit perfectly. With all the replacement parts on hand, I reassembled the Drive Axle, installed the new shift fork and once again laid the transmissions shafts in the lower crankcase assembly mated the shift forks. I manually ran the transmission through the gears several times until I was satisfied that everything was in the right place. The transmission shafts were then transferred to the upper crankcase assembly in preparation for reassembly. Part 4 Engine / Transmission Reassembly http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic15.jpgCrankcase back together - Right Viewhttp://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic17.jpgCrankcase back together - Left View A few points to watch out for before mating the upper and lower crankcases together. First, be sure to replace the clutch push rod oil seal and O-ring prior to reassembly. It is possible to replace the seal once the bike is back together but impossible to replace the O-ring as the collar it fits on is keyed to the crankcase. I oiled up all the main bearing surfaces and poured some oil into as many of the galleries as I could access with the thought that this would aid lubrication upon startup. Apply Yamabond (or Threebond) to all mating surfaces. It is very important to apply in the areas surrounding the oil galleries to ensure good oil pressure. Also, keep the Yamabond at least three mm away from any of the main bearings to prevent contamination. Don't forget to position the Drive shaft pinion gear at this point. I didn't worry about checking the pinion gear lash as I took it out as an assembly and dropped it right back in. Dropping the lower crankcase into place is quite easy. Touch it down at the front end and as you drop the rear end, guide the shift forks into place on the transmission gears with a screwdriver. Once again, shift through the gears a couple of times manually before tightening anything down. Install and torque the crankcase bolts in the proper sequence. One of the bolts holding in the main oil gallery is also one of the crankcase bolts so I mounted it at the same time and torqued the bolt in the proper sequence. I installed new O-rings on the main oil gallery. The engine was now turned upright and the spacers on the shaft drive yoke were slipped into place and the upper crankcase bolts were installed and torqued. The drive yoke bolts were then positioned and torqued. I then had to re-invert the engine to install the oil pump assembly (new O-rings again) and the oil pan with a new gasket. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic16.jpgShiny Crankcase and Water Pump Covershttp://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic18.jpgScott's handy-dandy clutch removal tool! With the engine once again upright, the main axle bearing stopper (clutch) and the drive pinion gear stoppers were installed. In both cases, be sure to use locktite and proper torque. The pinion gear stoppers need to be punched as well per the manual. In the second picture above, note that the plug is now in the Drive Axle (#2) and a new O-ring has been placed on the Neutral/Gear Selection switch (#1). Note that throughout this repair, I never had to remove flywheel/generator rotor from the crankshaft. While all the internal repairs were taking place, I also took some time for some cosmetic external clean-up. The crankcase and waterpump covers were showing the ravages of UV rays and the factory coating was a mess. Liberal applications of Minwax Paint & Varnish Remover took care of the old coating. A thorough polishing with NEVR-DULL and Mother's Metal polish restored the shine. A fresh coating of clear coat high temp laquer provides the protection. Prior to installing the clutch boss, be sure to re-install the oil pump drive gear. Another tip of the hat to Scott MacMartin. His Clutch Removal tool works like a hot-damn and is easy to build. The piece of 2x6 with a couple of shelf brackets provides more than enough grip to break the main clutch boss nut free and also to re-torque it upon re-assembly. The hole provides room for the socket to grip the nut, while the "tool" holds the boss tightly. I just love great ideas, particulary when they are cheap to implement. The remainder of the clutch plates, and springs were added and the bolts torqued. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic19.jpgThis is a great time to check the valve clearance! The starter gear train was installed along with the AC Generator Cover. (A new gasket, of course, was also installed. With the engine on the bench, this is the ideal time to check and adjust the valve clearance. A whole lot easier than when it is in the bike. No bashed knuckles here. It turns out there were a couple that were tightening up a bit too much so with some shim swapping, everything is back to spec. New valve cover gaskets went on at this time but the rubber bolt plugs looked in good shape so I stayed with the old ones. The right crankcase cover goes on next (new gasket) and we're just about ready to re-mount the engine. Part 5 Re-Installing the Engine http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic20.jpgReady for install - Left Viewhttp://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic21L.jpgReady for install - Right View I'm doing a few things differently from when I pulled the motor out. In an effort to gain as much clearance as possible and simplify the task I've left a few things off and put others on. In the left view of the motor, the clutch slave cylinder is mounted to the engine and the shift shaft linkage is connected. This will be two less things to fiddle with when remounting the engine. The downside, and it's minor, is that I will have to reconnect and bleed the clutch line. In the right view, notice that the water pump, thermostat assembly and starter motor are not in place. This provides some much needed clearance on the front end. Further, the drive shaft is still not in place so all I have to worry about there is getting the yoke into the swing arm and I don't have to worry about mating the splines at this point. The rear brake master cylinder is also not in place. I had to remove it to get the engine out and since I plan to upgrade the brake lines anyway, bleeding the brakes will have to be done regardless. The lower right frame rail will also come off to provide room. I had it re-mounted to the to keep the parts together. One last point prior the task is to have the rear exhaust header handy. It has to go in with the motor. You can't put it in after the fact. http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic22.jpgPart way in with the help of a couple of friends!http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic23.jpgIt's In!!!! I highly recommend the help of a couple of friends for this step. Zolton and John were a great help here. Lifting the engine onto the jack is a tricky step and a couple of extra hands to steady things while sliding it into place are invaluable. Note that there is very little sweat on their brows and we're half-way there. It required a bit of jockeying back and forth but in about 15 minutes, it slipped into place. Three of the mounting bolts were put in and we're there. The lower picture at right shows the engine in place with the water pump, thermostat assembly, starter motor and lower frame rails all bolted into place. Other steps at this point are: Reconnect the clutch slave cylinder hose and refill and bleed clutch lines. Reconnect wiring harness from the AC Generator, Neutral switch assembly and Oil sensor. Install exhaust headers, muffler chamber and exhaust pipes. Re-install Drive shaft - lubricate with Molybdenum Disulphide Grease. Install middle gear case cover and gasket. Re-install Oil Filter assembly. Re-fill with fresh motor oil. Mine took almost 4 litres to get to correct level. Install footpeg assemblies. Install radiator, coolant hoses, and coolant bypass hose. Refilled cooling system. Used long life, silicate free anti-freeze. Installed YICS chamber and Air baffles. Installed new fuel filter. (good time to do this with good access.) Installed carburettor assembly. Lube and adjust throttle and choke cables. Install Air cleaner assembly.http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic24.jpgIt's running!With a good charge on the battery and one last good look around to see what I may have missed it's time to give it a whirl. With some gentle coaxing she caught and fired. After some initial blue smoke (I suspect from being upside down for so long) she settled into a nice idle and the exhaust cleared to a clear vapour. I still didn't have the brake lines on so I ran her up and down through the gears on the center stand a few times. So far, so good! I let her warm up thoroughly and then hooked up the mercury stacks. The carb synch was virtually spot on. A week later I had a new set of stainless steel brake lines installed and fresh set of spark plugs. Insurance on and time to take her for a short test ride. I still had no fairing on the bike, therefore, no signal lights and no mirrors so I kept it short. (It was also darned cold.) Shifting is very smooth through the gears, good power with no clutch slip and best of all, no skipping in second gear. Yahooooooo!!!! Still lots to do to get her ready for a summer of riding but a big job complete. Part 6 Parts Listing The following are lists of parts and materials that I found necessary for this project. Your experience may vary depending on how badly worn your transmission is. For example I didn't replace the shift cam, which may be necessary if you have virtually no second gear. The lists are broken into four parts and all prices are in CANADIAN dollars and include Provincial (BC) and Federal sales taxes. Your prices will vary of course, depending on your locale, dealer and tax systems. The prices are only published here as a guide. The first list contains the parts that I found were specific to the 2nd gear repair. As my 84VR had only just started skipping, this should be considered a minimum. I have included gaskets and seals that can only be accessed with the crankcase split. I believe that they should be considered essential changes as part of this repair. PART NUMBERDESCRIPTIONPRICE99999-01573-002nd/5th Gear Kit - Includes: 1FK-17121-01 Gear 2nd Pinion 1FK-17151-01 Gear 5th Pinion 1FK-17221-01 Gear 2nd Wheel 1FK-17252-01 Gear 5th Wheel$298.254NK-17421-00Axle Driven$206.4490331-15039Plug - Axle$4.695A8-17529-00Washer Thrust (2 required)$7.4790201-252K4Washer Plate (170-16154-02)$11.6626H-18511-01Fork (Shift #1)$25.583JP-12449-02Gasket, Water Pump (26H-13410-44)$8.913JP-13414-01Gasket, Strainer Cover (26H-13414-00)$11.893JP-15462-01Gasket, Crankcase Right (26H-15462-00)$10.363JP-15451-01Gasket, Crankcase Left (26H-15451-00)$11.9793210-14579O-Ring, Oil Pump Pipe (2 required)$1.8793210-29196O-Ring (371), Neutral/Gear Indicator Assembly$2.9293210-18322O-Ring (1L9), Clutch Push-Rod Bushing$2.2093109-08061Oil Seal (12E), Clutch Push-Rod (371-15389-00)$3.2493102-12321Oil Seal (30X), Shift Shaft (93102-12106)$7.5190215-25218Washer, Lock, Clutch Basket$2.42TOTAL $617.38The second list contains materials that were necessary for the job. Some could be considered regular maintenance, but needed to be changed as part of the process. I did not include materials I already had on hand such as solvents, and polishing compounds. PART NUMBERDESCRIPTIONPRICE530405Threebond, Liquid Gasket 3.5 oz$9.2224200Loctite 242$7.423471Copaslip Anti-Seize Assembly Compound$3.1375-080Motul 5100 10W-40 Semi-Synthetic Motor Oil, 4 litres$36.89M4332C 11024Gunk DOT-3 HD Brake Fluid, 1 litre Moly Grease$13.3429-3011-0Anti-freeze, Long Life, Silicate Free$14.81TOTAL $84.81This third list contains some special tools I needed to purchase for the job. I have a fairly substantial work shop, but I still needed a few special items. PART NUMBERDESCRIPTIONPRICEgr m123030mm, 1/2 drive, 12 point socket$22.247207012500 1/2 inch Impact Driver$19.05677763Torx 40 Socket$5.316772588mm Allen Head 3/8 Socket$5.52TOTAL $52.12The last table lists the other parts that were purchased for general winter maintenance. This includes a brake overhaul, cooling system overhaul and general tune-up items. This list sort of grew with the project and kind of got out of hand. However, it all goes towards maintaining a sound reliable bike. PART NUMBERDESCRIPTIONPRICE26H-11193-00Valve Cover Gaskets (2 Required)$48.9947G-11166-00Pipe, Breather 1 (Crankcase Ventilation)$9.3893211-16591O-Ring, Water Pump Cover$4.4193210-27778O-Ring, Water Pump Cover (93210-14104)$0.9393210-27778O-Ring (1KT), Coolant Pipe to Thermostat (2 Required)$9.131J7-13441-10Element, Oil Filter$9.1826H-12169-10 26H-12168-Y0Pad, Adjusting 2.70 Pad, Adjusting 2.65$15.28246-FA88HHEBC, Double-H, Sintered ST Brake Pads (3 sets)$169.2591316-10020-00Frame Bolt$2.851FK-24560-00Fuel Filter$14.4926H-12576-01Coolant Hose #1$18.70 Galfer Clearcoat Stainless Steel Brake Line Set (5 hoses)$372.26350-DPR8EA9NGK Spark Plugs (4 Required)$24.58TOTAL $699.43 http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic27.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic25.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/secondgear/pic26.jpg
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