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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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I have a conundrum concerning the installation of a new front tire on my 86. Part of the problem is probably of my own making and the remainder remains a mystery to me. I installed a new Dunlap E3 and put in 2 oz. of the Dyna Beads. Since this was my first motorcycle tire self-replacement I took my time and read the posts and even watched a video on tire changing. Removed the old tire, polished the rim, removed all the old weights etc. Installed the new tire (MR90-18 71H) and put in the beads, aired it up and everything looked fine. Took the bike out for a ride and did maybe 100 miles. The front tire exhibited a noticeable hopping at low speeds and more so on starts from a standing stop. The the "hopping" disappeared when the speed was increased to above 10 mph or so. The problem: took the bike out for another run and pushed it up into the 80+ mph range (fast for the curvy roads around here). No problems noted until some more vibrations of a much higher frequency developed at higher speeds. When I returned home and was about to turn into my drive the front started a violent head shake. I was rolling right along at the time and was on the front and rear brakes to slow down and turn. The "hopping" was very noticeable and then the head shaking began. Could not turn into the drive and coasted to the neighbors drive and found that the front tire was completely flat and had come off the safety bead on one side. Naturally the Dyna Beads were all over the neighbors drive. Walked home, picked up the air tank and returned to the bike and pumped up the tire, as if nothing had happened. It is still holding 40 psi this morning. My part of the problem is that I put the 'light spot" opposite the valve stem, in reverse of the accepted method. Now what the heck is the remainder of the cause of the tire loosing all the air in a few seconds with no apparent reasons? This experience is certainly not a confidence builder. Any help would be greatly appreciated. PS: As this bike is normally ridden with a side car attached the rake of the triple tree has been increased by about 7 degrees. I was not riding with the car attached when this occurred.
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The wife has a trip planned to go to some drive through animal safari type place in Port Clinton, Ohio. My daughter and her brood will drive down and the wife and I will take the scooter. We are looking for a decent (read good, but not break the bank good) hotel to stay at the Friday night before and/or maybe Saturday night as well. We'd like to be on the lake, but realize that may be too expensive. Maybe even some place between Toledo and Port Clinton. Anyone familiar with this area that can make any suggestions? Thanks...
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I have the rear wheel and final drive off should it leak oil while off the bike or should it br sealed up?
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I have a question that may sound dumb buy here goes anyways. Will a 2nd Gen final drive fit on a 1st Gen? Mine is making some serious noises when maintaining speed but not while accelerating or decelerating. I was looking at some on ebay and just wondered what my options were if I need to replace it. Thanks
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Well, I was doing some regular maintenance on QuickSilver the other day, just getting ready for the Ohio Carnival next week, and while I had the rear wheel off to change the tire I figured it was about time to finally check the drive shaft for lube. I know some folks here think this needs to be done every two weeks or so , but not me! I haven't pulled the drive shaft even once in 80,000 miles, and from what I saw, there really wasn't much need to do it now. There was not a ton of grease in there, but enough. It was clear that Yamaha used a moly grease when they put it together, and there were no visible signs of abnormal wear. So I just added a touch more 5% moly and put it all back together for another 80,000 miles. It really wasn't too hard to get the drive shaft back in the U-joint with the help of another member who just happened to be around while I was working (THANX Formerfuzz!). The trick was to simply put the transmission in gear and have someone else turn the final drive gears while I held the drive unit and tried to generally center the shaft on the U-joint. Here's a tip for when you get ready to do this - first, pull the drive hub/fingers from the rear wheel (which you should be doing to lube the drive fingers anyway), and use that hub for your helper to turn the gears/drive shaft while you hold the drive unit and try to insert the drive shaft into the u-joint. After you get the drive housing back in place, you can finish greasing the drive fingers and putting the hub back in the wheel. Since I hadn't done this before and I had already greased up the drive hub, I just wrapped a rag around a 2x4 and jammed it into the drive splines to turn the gears. Goose -
This is for you computer guys. I have been using win 2000 pro for years and never had a problem, no crashes or problems with any of my programs ever. The computer runs great but now the browsers and anti virus software does not work. I have an OEM XP disk. I want to up grade but can't get it to load. I tried to format from the bios but can't find the right menu. How do I get to the DOS promp to format the drive so I can re load the operating system or upgrade from the disk. I have backed up all my drives on an external hard drive. HELP Rod
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I ordered new tires yesterday and I should have them tomorrow. It's been a long slow process but I've just about got the old girl ready to go. I drained the final drive last night. From the looks of the oil, I don't think it's ever been changed. Is there anything special I need to do with the final drive while I have the rear wheel off? It seems like I remember reading something about greasing it or something. There is a grease fitting but I'm not sure if this is the only place that needs to be greased.
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http://bozardford.com/images/spacer.gif We had a chance to get a great deal on this car because my son-in-law shoots this ford dealers commercials. We just couldnt refuse and they gave me a great price on our sebring convertible to boot. Its a 2007 Mustang GT Deluxe....300 HP V8, shaker sound system, full leather interior, 5 speed automatic. Took it for a test drive on I-95 in St Augustine. Hit 100 mph with no effort. Jean deserves this car after putting up with me all these years. But, I do get to drive it now and then.......:smile5: http://cdnedge.vinsolutions.com/AP/3026-2-10257046-64052278-0-0/64052278.jpg
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R/R fell off... I think
Dizzle223 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
After taking the long way home from work last night my brakes felt a little funny. While inspecting the rear brake pads, which I noticed are non-existent, I saw what I think is the R/R laying against the drive shaft housing and the frame. After pulling the left side panel and the pass. foot rest mounting bracket I disconnected the two wire bundles and tried to pull the R/R out. It was still partially attached by one bolt to the bracket that holds the rear exhaust hanger but only barely hanging on. It was not attached all to the front but the bolt was still there? When I first bought the bike a few weeks ago I noticed that the left exhaust/muffler was not even with the right side when looking at the bike from the rear. After comptimpating this for several hours I think I've determined the following.... at some point the R/R loosened and the front portion fell down by the drive shaft housing causing it to push against the frame when the rear suspension travels up and down. (note the broke fins and fin marks on the drive shaft) Which in turn pushed against the mounting bracket forcing it outward. (note the chipped paint and rust marks on the bracket) So my question(s) is.... #1. Is this the R/R #2. Will the couple of broken fins on the back be an issue #3. Can I/would you straighten that bracket to even up the mufflers #4 Can someone send or post of pic of the rear of their bike so I can see the alignment of the exhaust #4. What brake pads are recommended for my 86 VR As always, any and all comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated! -
Well, I found my oil leak. It's leaking right at the boot where the drive shaft and u-joint meet. I need to reseal the output shaft. I was looking at the parts diagram for the middle drive gear and I can't seem to find which seals I need. I see the crush washer and spacer, do they consider that the shaft gasket? -
What would I gain by changing my final drive out in my 2008 RSTD to a V-Max final drive? Also what year would I have to get to do this and is it a straight out change bolt for bolt? Joe and
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Skydoc_17: I just had Double Hernia Surgery last week, so I don't know for sure if I can ride the 87'VR over, but my brother has offered to drive me over. Take care of yourself Earl
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From my Nortons, to BMWer to HD I am hooked on the Royal Star engines. Thanks to all who helped me navigate the transition from my Road King to a roaring 4 cyl Yamaha. Three weeks ago I passed on the 03 Venture after trying a RSTD at the last minute mainly because of a heavy feeling on the Venture's steering. I was ready to lay the cash down on the Venture until the RSTD ride. Guess I wasn't used to the baggers and I ride mainly solo. Last week I located a 05 RSTD in CA that was a screamer with Krome Werks pipes, Kurykyn highway pegs, studde tank bra with pouch Mustang seats with driver back rest and OH YEA for the solo ride a studded single Ultimate seat with a carriage rack. I bought a Kuryakn Grantailgater I adore the many configuration the RSDT affords and above all love the high rpm this machine screams at. I don't have to wait till the cow come home like my V-Twins to get warmed and ready. Fourth gear really is an over drive and 5th a luxury. As for the chrips easily handled with rpm and never an issue other than it reminds you that you are lugging your machine. It's how you drive it. I did a 150 mile in the snow capped Sierras and this RSTD handle, shifted and responded like a German designed machine without the ugliness and it turned some serious uphill in ant hills. Hope there is room here for the RSTD machine Normax:cool10:
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Well, I installed a new shock on the back of my 1st gen. That went well. I also decided to grease the splines on the drive shaft while I was there, now low and behold I have an oil leak at the rubber boot which according to the parts diagram looks like the drive shaft seal right before the u-joint. Anybody have any insight on the replacement of that seal? Also, my twinkie has started leaking. I'm sure a lot of curse words (Even some I may have to make up) will be used. I also have a little leak by the clutch slave cylinder or stator cover, not 100% sure yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I was geting ready to swap out the final drive on my 88 with a drive from a 2nd gen when I noticed that I could move the pinion from side to side with just my hand. Is there a way to take up the slop in the pinion or will the unit have to be taken apart and reshimed. Sure dont want to do all that work still have the noise still. Thanks.
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Friends Bought an 84 700 ltd Kaw. Nice bike good size "town bike". It would not start after stopping by for a visit. Ending up taking him home after giving up on jumping it off going down the drive way. well, decide to give a once over and see one exhaust port alot hotter then the others and say let me check the carbs later. Open the carbs and they are clean as can be. but when I flip them over to look at the float level before dissassembly realize one float is upside down. Call it a night and go home and this morning it pops in my head 3 were upside down and one right. Explains why it ran so long without the tank on. Any one every find stuff like this in their lives? But other question is when attemting to jump it off going down the drive way and popping the clutch it just dragged to a halt. So I got on for the next little hill and popped when in 2nd then all the way to 5th gear and it just drug to a halt with a catch and motor turning at the very end. I have not rode it and he is a little new to this and Im not sure how the clutch is. It is a shaft drive bike and all feels good. Anyone ever heard of this dragging to a halt? and Im not talking about the rear tire but some in the bike. Also after siitng a few minutes it fires right up. Never was hydro locked just flooded with a weak battery. Thanks all
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Has anyone ever seen where someone has changed a RSV trans to chain drive? I think the v4 would make a cool engine for a project bike.
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Today during my ongoing 91 VR restoration project, after forks, electrical, coils, carbs., the rear end was my target and everything was peachy until I took out my rear wheel. Surprise, a bunch of metal shavings fell out of the interior of drive, after a moment of panic(thinking of a shot drive), I started to look and clean, the dried out grease and more debris, but I turned my attention to my wheel bearing and got a handful of needles and more shavings. I then took a good look at the spines because they crunched the needles to shavings. After a good cleaning the drive splines seems ok, I guess? Any comments or warnings would be appreciated. Mike -
i looked at one of these today in lexington ky,never thought i'd like them but i was really surprised it very well made tho the seating is different then the rsv i think after getting use to the angle it might be more comfortable,going back for a test drive the firsd the roads are dry, might make a good stable mate for the rsv. has anyone else tried these out:Venture:
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Anyone else following the Barrett jackson collector car auction now? 1954 mecedes gullwing just went for $2 000 000. Where do people get that kind of money for a car that you should not drive and put in a climate controllled atmosphere? Not from being a Ford technician let me tell you.
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Hi All, I found this list on an other forum and thought I would pass it on. I'm sure everybody has their own specific items they take. TRIP SUPPLIES 1. Rain gear 2. Standard Tool kit that comes with the bike 3. Tire plug kit with new plugs/snakes purchased periodically (to avoid dry rot) 4. Several CO2 cartridges (the size used in paint ball games) and a CO2 inflator 5. A can of slime under pressure 6. A sharp knife (actually from the ROK that we got at an AVA Rally) 7. Fuses (assorted amp) 8. Bottle of water 9. Extra zip ties 10. Duct tape 11. extra bulbs (some of the auto companies sell a package that has one of each type of bulb you might need). 12. Bike Cover 13. Windshield cleaning supplies (Lemon Pledge and a $5 package of terry towels) 14. Bungie Cords 15. Sunscreen 16. A large U shaped lock. 17. Set of metric allen wrenches-avoid ball end wrenches 18. Set of sae allen wrenches (for after market stuff)-avoid ball end wrenches 19. Set of 3/8 drive metric 6 point sockets 20. Set of 1/4 drive metric sockets 21. 3/8 drive universal joint 22. 1/4 drive universal joint 23. 22mm socket 24. 19mm socket 25. Set of JIS screwdrivers (size 2 is probably all you'll ever need) 26. Set of metric combination wrenches 27. Appropriate ratchets and breaker bar (for rear lug nuts, hence breaker bar) 28. Large flat tip screwdriver 29. Small flat tip (maybe a #1 or smaller) 30. 12V air compressor 31. Sticky rope plugs to plug a tire 32. 5-6 foot length of tubing to use as siphoning hose 33. Diagonal cutters (dikes) 34. Pocket knife 35. Electrical tape or duct tape 36. Flashlight 37. Small section of wire (3-4 ft of 16-18AWG) 38. A few rags & hand cleaner 39. Tire pressure gauge 40. Tire depth gauge 41. Spare valve stem 42. Bungee cords 43. Fuse assortment
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Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am frustrated that the sound is still there . . . but much easier to pinpoint now that the bearing is corrected. I'm getting a wine that is audible from the drive shaft area of the bike. Using a long screw driver as a stethoscope and the bike running in gear on the stand, the sound is the loudest at the input of the final drive. Is it likely that the drive shaft just needs to get lubed up again or something more serious? If that is not it does the big bearing for the input shaft go bad @ about 100K? Has anyone replaced the big bearing for the input shaft on the final drive? Is it difficult? OR . . . it best to start looking for a new final drive and leave that one alone? Thanks, Mike -
THIS WILL DRIVE YOU CRACKERS ! Go to the site, then click on the start button. A group of numerals from 1 to 33 will appear in red boxes. You don't need to click on the numbers, just move your cursor over them in order from 1 to 33 and as you correctly do so that numeral will disappear. See how fast you can get the task completed. This is a good practice to keep your brain sharp and your eye hand co-ordination crisp, or ...................................................... it could drive you mad! Enjoy!! HA! Note: REMEMBER, you don't have to "click" the mouse http://www.chezmaya.com/jeux/game33.htm
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I have a new WD 2Tb caviar green sata drive that I can not get to format. I am running a clean new install of Windows 7 on a SATA drive using a slightly old MB, ASUS AV8 deluxe, 2.5 g ram AMD processor, 9800 ATI AGP video. 64 bit I have tried Windows format with no discernable progress. I have used Acronis which goes to 3 of 3 - Creating partition then has no progress. Any suggestions. I do see the drive in Windows Manage - Disk Management screen Also having issue getting VIA SATA driver to run on 7. MB has 3 IDE inputs & 4 SATA. Also have an add in card with 2 more SATA & 1 more IDE input. Gary
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I got the rear housing / gears from a VMax and swapped this out with mine on the 2008 RSTD. I don't have the rear wheel back on as yet as I wanted to take the time to check the drive pins before re-installing. My questions are; on the forum someone mentions two special tools required to change the drive housing. One, I assume, is to hold the coupling up inside of the fork tube to make it easier to get the drive shaft spline into it. The other is for some sort of bearing retainer? I didn't have either tool. One thing I did do was to start the driveshaft into the coupler, then push it into the housing aligning the spring, etc. Then I slid the entire assembly together and started the acorn nuts. Anything I may have missed on the rear housing end by doing this?
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