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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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I passed 600 miles a few days ago and changed the oil and filter today. Used Mobil 1 Clean 6000. The original Dino oil looked good and clean and I didn’t find much in the way of metal in it. The final drive oil was another matter. There was about half an inch of sludge that came out before the oil when I pulled the drain plug. There was a lot of metal on and around the magnet. This thing must have been sitting for 10 years. If you have a new RSV make sure you drain the final drive around 600 miles just to make your life a bit easier down the road. I plan on changing the oil and filter along with the final drive oil again at around 1200 miles just to be sure. I wonder if this is common with new bikes?
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Last night I decided to drop the rear wheel on my NEW 07 (146 miles on her) and check the clutch pins, clutch hub drive splines and drive shaft splines for the amount of grease on them. As you can see by the attached pictures the amount of or should I say the (LACK OF GREASE) on them was ridicules. The pictures of the drive shaft are bit blurry to see but I’ll tell you that the amount of grease on all these parts from the factory would not amount to much more then a tablespoon full. If you have not checked these parts for adequate grease I would highly recommend that you do. It may just save you a lot of aggravation down the road. I'm very glade that I decided to do it, now I can ride without worry. The pictures prove that you can’t trust Yamaha to do it. The repair cost of all the Ventures due to the lack of grease on these bikes from the factory must be costing Mama Yama a bundle in warranty work. You would think that the powers that be at Yamaha would have addressed this by now. If you look at the picture of the drive shaft you will see the seal (red arrow) that bonded itself in the final drive assembly on my 03 due to what I believe was a lack of grease. If you remember I had a lot of trouble removing the drive shaft from the final drive. After asking on this forum why it would not come free as it was supposed to I figured out that it was this seal, which has a metal ring imbedded in the rubber bonded to the inside of the final drive (due to friction) and prevented the drive shaft from coming out. I had to pry this seal out in order to remove the drive shaft. So if you take yours apart and the drive shaft want’s to stay in the final drive assemble this may be your problem.
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Folks...I REALLY like this trike. I think it is overpriced by about $25,000.00 or so but that's beside the point. I just love the old school look and it looks like it would be a blast to drive. Very clean lines. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-EXILE-CYCLES-TRIKE_W0QQitemZ200170040593QQihZ010QQcategoryZ6719QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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I am forced to drive on some rough roads,sometimes its the potholes or the barditch whatever rout is smother. I told yall this because it may be linked to my problem. My overdrive light just recently started to not come on. At times it comes on instantly when I hit high gear.At times it wont come on for several miles,then I look down and its on. Could this be an indicator of trany problems or just a bad light? The bike shifts fine and I have no sliping or problems in high gear.
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I have the new 2007 Star Venture. I have about 12,400 miles on it. Its sitting on a lift, waiting for a new drive shaft. Noone in the U.S. had the part, it had to ordered from Japan. Anyone else having a problem with their bike. The wife explains" the wheel fells like its sliding", mostly around turns. she kept questioning the tire pressure. Now we kept hearing a whinding sound as the bike slowed, loudest sound came, down shifting into third gear. like a WUAAAAA sound. I brought the bike in a fewtimes, because, it felt like to front end was hopping. I had the front end checked 3 times, like the pads were rubbing, after a while 4000. miles we had the rear brakes checked, still nothing. The service rep, rode the bike after changing the gasket on the left side of the bike from a leak. He herd the noise, and brought the bike back in and removed the tire, and checked the drive shaft. sure enough, the teeth were chipping off, and the threads were rounding off., upon dropping the rear end oil, we found small peices of metal on the magnet. so we ordered, evey part connected to the shaft, for replacement.
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I'm going to put my argo bigfoot on ebay tomorrow and wolfie said thats what don needs sense he keep driving into the pond. You can dirve this in the pond motor around and drive back out.
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After seeing what some other people on here are paying for the same bike I put a hold on this one till I shop around some more. Some got a drive out cheaper than this one list for which is 17,399 drive out just over 20,000.There has got to be a better deal out there close to me. Ron
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Okay. This is sure to draw several opinions but I'd be happy to read them. I'd like to outfit my 04 RSV with new pipes and I'm not sure which to buy. I'd like a little more of a throaty sound without it sounding obnoxious. In other words I don't want people (especially my neighbors) to look at me when I drive by and bad mouth me like I bad mouth others with loud pipes. I saw a recent discussion on here about the Khrome Werks (sp?) but was wondering about what others have installed and liked. Thanks in advance Wayne
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Talimena Drive,Oklahoma Peg & I are thinking about go to the Talimena Drive. This October 20-21 is OUT due to my son Birthday so we will have to set it some other weekend in October.Was wondering if anybody esle was planing on going too.And if so what Dates and time.We will be coming from the western part of Okla. by the way of Hwy7 & Hwy271 to Talihina. Also where is the best place to get motel or hotel in Ark. over night stay? Last time I went over Talimena Drive was 30yrs ago so I know things have changed alot since then.And Peg has never been so I guess it will be new to the both of us. buddy
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We are getting together to sync carbs etc. Saturday. We will meet up at 4388 Morning Drive at 2:00PM.
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I am toying with getting one or the other. I really would like the 500, but have heard about the hard drive issues on a bike. It might be a little big but other than that has a lot of features. On the other hand, the 250 is a card reader, so doesn't have the hard drive issues but a lot less gps than the 500. My question is, who has either one, and what is your opinion of yours? BTW, $ is an issure, so the Zumo is out. Thanks, Steve
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VMAX Rear End Swap by: Don Nelson Shortly after purchasing my Royal Star Venture in 1999, I realized that 5th gear on these things are very high. At the time, I just accepted it but after a recent trip to Colorado riding two up, pulling a trailer and fighting some heavy headwinds, I made up my mind that I was going to look seriously for a solution. On that trip, I did a little experiment. First I asked a rider of a first gen Venture what kind of RPMs he was running at 70 MPH. He replied that he was running right at 4,000 RPM. When we got back on the road, I checked my tach only to discover that I was actually running exactly 4,000 RPM in 4th gear. When I shifted to 5th, the RPMs went down to about 3200 RPM and I felt that I was really lugging the engine with the load I had and running 70 MPH. So, for a full tank of gas I stayed in 4th gear and was running the 4,000 RPMs. At the next gas stop, I checked with Bob Dakin as to how much gas he put in. Bob also rides an RSV and was running in 5th gear. It turns out that he and I need the exact same amount of gas even though I had been running in 4th gear. I knew then that the only reason I would have used the same gas as him was because that in 4th gear, I was staying in the power band of the engine, not lugging it. Upon returning home, I sent John Furbur and email and found that he does offer a VMAX rear end swap for the RSV. A few days later, my new rear end arrived in the mail and was installed a couple of days later. After getting the rear end installed and taking the bike for a test run, I am pleased to say that it does exactly what I hoped it would. I am now running about 500 RPM higher in every gear. In 5th gear, I now run 3600 RPM rather than the previous 3100 RPM. This is a good compromise between the 4,000 RPM that I had run in 4th gear and the 3100 that I had previously run in 5th. I have not yet had time to take a long enough trip to check the gas mileage again but I really expect to see an improvement when riding two up and especially when pulling a trailer also. Regardless of the fuel mileage though the increase in performance of the bike is enough that I am even willing to sacrifice a couple MPG if that is the case. I have tried various exhausts, K&N filters and the Dyna 3000 Ignition module but none of those have come close to giving me the performance increase as this rear end swap. I promised to do a write-up on the install so here it is. The truth is though, if you have ever pulled your rear end to lubricate the drive shaft, then you have really already done this job. You simply replace the stock rear with the VMAX rear. Very simple job. Since there are already instructions posted for removing the rear wheel, I will start this procedure at the point where the saddle bags, rear wheels and mufflers have already been removed. So here we are at that point. The first thing you will want to do is drain the rear end. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1399%20%28Small%29.jpg Remove the one screw that secures the speedometer sensor to the rear end. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1401%20%28Small%29.jpg After the screw is removed, the speedo sensor just pulls out. There is an O-Ring so you have to pull on it fairly hard. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1402%20%28Small%29.jpg Remove the 4 acorn nuts that secure the rear end to the drive shaft tubes. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1403%20%28Small%29.jpg Slide the rear end off. The drive shaft will come out with the rear end. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1404%20%28Small%29.jpg Here is the assembly removed. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1405%20%28Small%29.jpg You then need to pull the drive shaft out of the rear end. There is nothing it in except for an 0-Ring so you have to pull on it fairly hard but it will come out. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1406%20%28Small%29.jpg There is a spring inserted in the rear end that you will need to remove and insert into the new rear end. It just pulls off so pull it off and install on the new one. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1407%20%28Small%29.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1409%20%28Small%29.jpg While you have the drive shaft out, now is the time to grease it up before putting it all back together. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1410%20%28Small%29.jpg Install the new rear end with drive shaft. It is recommended that you now install the rear axle, without the wheel, and do the rear end alignment as outlined in the Yamaha TSB. This procedure can be found here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1412%20%28Small%29.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1413%20%28Small%29.jpg Now is a great time to grease the rear drive pins in the wheel hub. See this excellent write-up by Tartan Terror for that procedure. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=117809#post117809 Now you can follow the normal procedure and re-install the rear wheel. After the wheel is installed, tighten the axle nut to 110 ft.lbs.. Now you are ready to fill the new rear end with lube. I use Mobil 1 synthetic but that is just my personal choice. As you can see, I filled the rear before re-installing the rear wheel so you can actually do it either way. http://www.venturerider.org/vmaxrear/100_1414%20%28Small%29.jpg That's it folks. You now have VMAX gearing in your RSV, Royal Star or Venture. Blue Ridge Mountain Sportmax offers the VMAX rears for all our bikes so if you are interested John Furbur at http://rmsportmax.com/gateway.html
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Hello VR members, Just wanted to pass on a couple of pics, to let you know things went well for Tom E. He will be missed, but I guess the Lord had something for him to do as to why he took him so early. We never think it's going to happen to one of our own, so please drive safe out there, and keep an eye out for the other guy, as this is usually the one that doesn't see us.
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Hey y'all. My 2000 MMLTD (41,000 miles) accelerates just like it should under hard throttle going up through the gears. Seems to run great then. However, it vibrates (misfires?) when I try to accelerate at higway speeds like 50, 60,70, etc.. Acts somewhat like if you tried to accelerate in 5th gear running 20 mph. Shakes. I checked thoroughly and really don't believe it is anything in the drive train like the middle drive gear bearing or anything in the shaft or rear diff. From what I see using my timing light, I think my front two coils, wires, plug caps, whatever are the culprit. Took them out (such a pain) and did the resistance test on each item. All checked well within tolerance. Carbs are synched up perfectly. I've been wrenching for 37 years and am looking for the simple. Don't want to buy coils if not needed. Any body had any wires or wire insulation failures. Any ideas? Thanks. Rusty
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Has anyone figured out yet how to keep grease on the final drive gear case splines. Took my rear wheel off last week and found them to be totally dry again. What do I need to use to keep grease on these things. Suggestions PLEASE.
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I posted this a while back on a similar post and I suspect what you are experiencing is an alignment problem. I have used a procedure for mounting a rear tire on any Venture that will align the rear end perfectly every time. I was told about this proceedure by a Venture mechanic back in 89 or so and have used it ever since. 1. Before removing the tire, put the bike in gear. 2. When removing the rear tire, loosen slightly the 4 - 14mm nuts to the rear member. This will also give you a little wiggle room to remove one of the wider tires. 2. With the tire off remove the 4 - 14mm nuts and remove the rear member and drive shaft. Grease the drive shaft splines and slip it back in the drive tube. This can be a bit tricky but feel for the inner spline U joint and move it up and rotate it where the drive shaft enters the U joint and the studs enter the holes. Put the 4-14mm nuts back on but leave them a bit loose. 3. mount the wheel into the rear member. Grease the axle lightly and slip it into the wheel through (1.) the large washer and (2.) the caliper bracket. Tighten the axle nut to where it pulls the axle through and snugs into place and then loosen the nut. With a 10mm allen wrench, you can rotate the axle. Turn the axle until you feel a loosest spot around the circumference of the axle. Mark this spot at the pinch bolt slit with a file for future alignments. 4. With the axle pulled through and snug, tighten the pinch bolt and then torque the axle nut to 110 lbs. This gets the axle and inner wheel splins into perfect alignment with each other. 5. Now go back with a good 14mm boxed in wrench and tighten the 4-14mm acorn nuts on the rear member in a cross pattern. This now pulls the drive shaft into alignment with the rear member. 6.You are finished with this part and can now put the caliper back on along with everything else that you took off. Now you really don't need to go through this entire process, but you do need to raise the bike where the rear wheel is off the ground and loosen everything up as follows: 1. Raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Loosen the axle nut completely. 3. Loosen the axle pinch bolt. 4. rotate the axle until you feel the loosest spot and mark this spot on the axle at the pinch bolt slot. 5. Loosen all 4 - 14mm acorn nuts from the final drive assembly. Now you are ready to tighten it back up starting with: 1. The axle to the point the axle nut just starts to tighten. 2. Tighten the pinch bolt 3. Torque the axle nut to 110 lbs 4. Tighten up the 4 - 14mm acorn nuts in a cross pattern. If it's still making a clicking noise then take it back to the dealer and have them look at it. If the rear fluid was not flushed at 500-1,000 miles, then you might have a set of needle bearings going bad in the final drive
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This tech tip covers numerous possible solutions, including the proper alignment of the rear drive and simple greasing of parts of the final drive clutch hub. One point of clarification to pay attention to when talking to your dealer is the difference between the final drive "clutch hub drive pins" (also called Clutch Pins in the figure on page 3 of the Tech Tip), and the clutch hub "drive splines." The pins fit into damper bushings in the wheel assembly and are NOT visible until the hub is removed from the wheel. The drive splines are on the outside of the hub and mate to the final drive when the wheel is mounted to the bike. These splines are what you see on the left side of the wheel when you remove it from the bike. These are clearly labeled in the Tech Tip. If you have had the shop try to fix this noise at least once without success, the noise you hear is probably coming from dry "clutch hub drive pins," not the drive splines. If you tell your shop to make sure the "splines" are greased, they are probably doing just that, and this does NOT solve your problem. If we all use the correct terminology when talking about this problem, we have a much better chance of getting all these Yamaha mechanics educated about the right fix. Thanx for listening, Goose BTW - although I do not know this for sure, I also suspect that the noise is probably caused much more from bushings not fully seated (as described in the bulletin) than just dry pins, so the wear marks on the drive pins should be closely examined as described in the Tech Tip. __________________
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Submitted by Bill Anton If this is something you may need to do (Sunday or Monday when bike shops are closed) print the procedure and put it in your owners manual. DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ===================== NOTE: This info is specific to the 1983-1993 Yamaha Venture motorcycle. Make intelligent (safe) changes for other motorcycles. Included in the procedure are REASSEMBLY torque specifications. The size listed is for the socket or wrench, not the bolt thread size. Initial tools required: - ratchet - 3" extension - sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 19mm - 14mm box-end wrench (if you loosen/remove the final drive) - 27mm flat wrench (rear axel nut) - 6mm Allen wrench (front axel pinch bolt) - pliers (for cotter key) OR get a get a 5/32" $0.75 hitch pin clip (Lowes / Home Depot) and never have to hassle with the archaic cotter key again - tie-down strap(s) - carpet / cardboard (for under forks) !! IMPORTANT: Control the bike's weight balance to make it safe to work around. You may have to ADD some WEIGHT to the REAR of the bike (saddlebags & trunk) BEFORE starting the procedure, so the front of the bike doesn't fall when the front wheel is removed in step 13. You should REMOVE everything from the saddlebags & trunk AFTER the front wheel is removed so the rear of the bike doesn't fall while working on the rear wheel. 1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Connect tie-down straps from the bottom of the centerstand legs, to the engine guards. Pull them as snug as practical. 3. To keep the fork tubes from getting damaged in step 10, place a cardboard or carpet (from a car?) under the front tire area. 4. Loosen the right muffler-to-exhaust clamping bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. 5. Remove the right muffler mounting bolt - 14mm, and remove the muffler. REASSEMBLY - Torque 18 ft-lbs. 6. Remove the rear brake caliper - 2, 12mm bolts. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lbs. TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread the brake pads during reassemble. 7. Loosen (not remove) the rear axel pinch bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. TIP: If the cotter key is aligned vertical, file marks on the pinch bolt end of the axel for easier future alignment. If it isn't aligned vertical, make the marks when you have the axel out. 8. Remove the rear axle nut and washer - 27mm flat wrench. *** DO NOT REMOVE THE REAR AXEL NOW *** REASSEMBLY - Torque 110 ft-lbs. TIP: Replace the cotter key with a 5/32" hitch pin (Lowes / Home Depot). 9. Front wheel remove: 1. Remove both brake calipers (2 bolts each) - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lb TIP: Get 2 pieces of cardboard 4"x4" and fold them in half and insert them between the pads to hold them apart TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread brake pads during reassemble. 2. Loosen the front axel pinch bolt - 6mm Allen wrench. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lb 3. Remove the front axel bolt - 19mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 75 ft-lb 4. Remove the front wheel. TIP: When you pull the wheel out, the speedo cable and drive will fall away -- don't worry unless you are over a dirt surface. REMINDER: On reassembly the speedo housing top-tab goes into the fork notch. 10. Carefully lower the front of the bike until the fork tubes are on the cardboard or carpet. 1. Start slowly pulling down on the fairing near the mirrors 2. As the pull-down becomes easier, slide one hand under the fairing for support 3. Squat a little as the fairing gets lower 4. As the weight increases, bring the other hand down for more support ****** REMOVE WEIGHT from the saddlebags & trunk for better counter balance. 11. Remove the rear axle. Notice the caliper bracket washer, it goes between the bracket and the swingarm. 12. Remove the brake caliper bracket. 13. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. then reattach one lower nut 1 1/2 turns so the drive shaft can't pull out of the U-joint and waste a lot of time to put it back together. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lb 14. Pull the final drive rearward until it is against the nut. This gives a little more clearance to get the tire past the final drive. CAUTION: The wheel and tire weigh about 42 pounds. Be prepared for step 15. 15. Pull the wheel away from the final drive, and out of the swing arm. 16. Roll the rear wheel out under the fender and do what you removed it for. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Removal of the final drive unit at this point is recommended to lube the driveshaft splines (Molybdenum Disulfide Grease) as long as the wheel is off anyway. See the FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL procedure below. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* 17. Reverse the DISASSEMBLY procedures from 14 to 1. - in step 10, do the sub-steps in 3-2-1 order. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL PROCEDURE (optional) ============================= 1. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lbs. 2. Pull the final drive out of the swingarm. NOTE on 86-93 models: The driveshaft oil seal makes the shaft "stick" to the final drive. The driveshaft can be pulled out with a firm force. DO NOT lube 86-93 driveshaft rear splines, final drive fluid lubes them. BE CAREFUL if you pull the shaft out of the final drive, oil can drain from the final drive. FINAL DRIVE REASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ================================ 1. Reinstall the driveshaft: 1. Pull (hard on 86-93 models) the driveshaft out of the final drive. Set the drive aside, being careful to keep it tilted up to prevent fluid loss. 2. Put the transmission in neutral. 3. Use a flashlight, and insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, and use it to align the U-joint so that the yoke is vertical (12 & 6 O'clock), and angled down toward the bottom of the swingarm. 4. Put the transmission in gear (so the U-joint can't turn). 5. Reattach the driveshaft to the final drive. 6. Insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, letting the front end drag on the bottom of the swingarm. 7. Wiggle the wheel mating gear on the final drive to mate the driveshaft with the U-joint - then put the 4 nuts on http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%201%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20rear%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%202%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%203%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20front%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%204%20Kneeling%20front%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%205%20Parts%20removed%20in%2010%20minutes%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%206%20Centerstand%20tie-down%20strap%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%207%20Wheel%20out%201%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%208%20Worms-eye%20view%20of%20rear%20wheel%20well%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%209%20Rear%20brake%20caliper%20bracket%20position%20pin%20(Small).JPG
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Please add to this list if you think of something that I have missed. Chirp. There has been a lot of discussion on the "chirping" sound on the second gen Venture and Royal Stars. There is often some confusion about this sound. These bikes use straight cut gears which create a whine that is best described as the sound made by an old granny gear truck when you are letting it coast. That is a normal sound that is characteristic of the straight cut gears. The sound that is NOT normal is a high pitched chirping sound. This is a result of improper clutch basket clearances. Yamaha has replaced many clutch baskets under warranty and many people have reported that this has greatly reduced or eliminated this noise. Dry drive splines. Yamaha seems to be very stingy with the grease that they use on the rear drive spines on these bikes. There have been many reports of noise from the drive area. Yamaha has lubed some of these as a warranty issue but many of us have done the job at home. It requires a lift to remove the rear tire and then pulling the drive shaft to lube the front splines and also removing the rear drive from the wheel hub to grease the "fingers". Trunk Cracks. The 1999 model RSV had an issue with the trunk bottoms cracking. Yamaha came out with a support kit to address this problem and installed it under warranty. Audio Problems. Many people have had problems with the audio system due to back connections of the 5 din plugs inside the fairing. The fix is to split the fairing, unplug the connectors and apply a bit of dielectric grease to the pins. CB Antennas. The 1999 model RSV came with very poor CB Antennas. Many were replaced under warranty. The design was changed with the 2000 models. Many have replace the '99 antennas with aftermarket units. Backfiring. Upon deceleration, many have experienced a loud backfire. This actually sounds like a cannon going off. Some have corrected the problem by syncing the carbs but many of us have plugged the AIS system to stop this problem completely. There is a tech article here on plugging the AIS. -
everybody that lives in the hill country of texas knows these roads, they are called the three sisters, 335, 336, 337, people drive down from colorado to drive on these three roads. ( imagine that ) not only are they great roads, lots of twists and turns, but some great biker friendly places to eat. some great swimming holes. great changes in elevation and a motorcycle museum run by a guy from new zealand. ( talk about getting lost ) during the week you can ride these and never see a soul, car nor motorcycle. on week ends you meet some great riders from all over i highly recommend the ride
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Best ride in Oklahoma is the Talihina Drive through the Winding Stair Mountain area start at Talihina Oklahoma on HWY 1 in Oklahoma to 88 in Arkansas ending up in Mena. Beautiful ride in the fall of the year, but a great ride anytime. Stop at Queen Wilhelmina SP in Arkansas for lunch.
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Drive shaft maint. On 1st Gen Here is a good article that was written by Mr. Fred Vogt. Fred published a lot of this type articles for the MTA's Motorcycle Roads Magazine. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. Remove the rear bags, right muffler, rear brake caliper and deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. Now find a couple of 2" x 4" and place the rear wheel spline side up on the boards. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the possession of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. Now for the mono shock pivots place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding. Fred J. Vogt, #01037
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