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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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I'm not familiar with ATV's (4 wheeler), so I've been looking to buy a used ATV, but would like to know from an owners experience what the best bang for the buck is. I'm looking for something between 400-650cc for trails, for cruising along on a frozen lake, general use, etc... Preferably a 4 wheel drive, locking front axle and still hopefully light enough to pull out of a bog. Maybe around 2-4k? What makes, years, models, mileage, etc should I stay away from? Any thoughts / guidance would be appreciated. Thanks,
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The near impossible happened Christmas day to many of us in the SE, and that meant a lot of snow (last snow on Christmas locally was 1947). I have no problem with it since I am originally from Nebraska, but the locals want to drive just as fast as in the summer heat. We have had lots of wrecks and injuries. I for one just stayed home Sunday.
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This was sent to me by Dano by email. Looks like a lot of fun but this guy can certainly drive. http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=4TshFWSsrn8&vq=medium
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Have a Merry Christmas, but remember.... Don't Drink and Drive http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=Z2mf8DtWWd8
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ABOUT 10" SO FAR. THE'RE CALLING FOR ANOTHER 8 OR SO BY THE MORNING. ...DID MY DRIVEWAY TWICE THIS AFTERNOON AND ITS NOT LETTING UP !!! TATERS AND I HAD TO GO TO A WAKE THIS EVENING...WHAT A NASTY DRIVE EVEN IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE.....JUST PLAIN DANGEROUS OUT THERE...DID I EVER TELL YOU GUYS HOW MUCH I HATE WINTER. ................................ JUST HAD TO VENT
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Well, it seems everytime one of my buddies comes up with a crazy, hair brain idea they end up coming to me. I must have a rep as a nut job to be targeted like this. Well, yeah, done some odd things myself. I'm gonna need all the advise I can get on this one. So here's the deal. Buddy used to hill climb Yammy Y2's that he stretched out. He's getting back into it and he's shooting to do the 600cc 2 stroke class. Sounds simple right? Buy a 600cc 2 stroke and stretch it. Simple. Nope. Not this guy. He's found a sled engine, a Rotax 570 that pushes 105 hp. He's got a couple of frames that it will fit into nicely. The deal is.....the drive system is the dual centifigul clutch/pulley set up from the sled. Get the picture? So.... the drafting of a plan is on the board to find a way to go to a single clutch/belt drive to more than likely a jackshaft to convert to chain drive to the rear wheel. In my mind....too much HP would be lost through a jackshaft setup. Not to mention the issues of tenisoning the belt from clutch to jackshaft. My thought is to use a single notched belt from the centrifigul clutch to a notched hub pulley on the rear wheel. Tension adjustment would be simpler and less power loss. Now I might mention the last time I messed with centifigul clutches was when I built my first mini bike. I see this working but it's going to take some creative engineering to pull it off. But like it has been said here before......Nothing is impossible. Anybody care to throw some ideas out this way? Mike
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I've finally retrieved my Dell Tablet XT. No data was recovered, my power supply has gone missing and I still get a message that it can't find a drive (duh!), anyways, i would like to see about getting it back up running but I've had to many "discussions" with Dell about this thing. Looking to find a 40G, 4200RPM, 1.8inch ATA hard drive. Any of you techies know a source?? Thanks
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THE RULES OF RURAL MICHIGAN ARE AS FOLLOWS: 1. Pull your droopy pants up. You look like an idiot. 2. Turn your cap right, your head isn't crooked. 3. Let's get this straight; it's called a 'dirt road.' I drive a pickup truck because I want to. No matter how slow you drive, you're going to get dust on your Lexus. Drive it or get out of the way. 4. They are cattle. They're live steaks. That's why they smell funny to you. But they smell like money to Michigan farmers. Get over it. Don't like it? I-94 goes east and west, I-75 goes north and south. Pick one. 5. So you have a $60,000 car. We're impressed. Grain farmers have $350,000 combines that they drive only 3 weeks a year. 6. So every person in rural Michigan waves. It's called being friendly. Try to understand the concept. 7. If that cell phone rings while an 8-point buck and 3 does are coming in, we WILL shoot it out of your hand. You better hope you don't have it up to your ear at the time. 8. Yeah, we eat taters, gravy, beans and cornbread. You really want sushi and caviar? It's available at Jim's bait shop... 9. The 'Opener' refers to the first day of deer season. It's religious holiday held on the 15th of November. 10. We open doors for women. That applies to all women, regardless of age. 11. No, there's no 'vegetarian special' on the menu. Order steak. Or you can order the Chef's Salad and pick off the 2 pounds of ham & turkey. 12. When we fill out a table, there are three main dishes: meats, vegetables, and breads. We use three seasonings - salt, pepper, and ketchup. Oh, yeah....We don't care what you folks in Detroit call that stuff you eat...IT AIN'T REAL CHILI!! 13. You bring 'coke' into my house, it better be brown, wet and served over ice. 14. You bring 'Mary Jane' into my house, she better be homegrown, cute, knows how to shoot, drive a truck, and she better have long hair.. 15. College and high school football/basketball are as important here as the Lions and the Pistons .... And more fun to watch. 16. Yeah, we have golf courses. But don't hit the water hazards -- it spooks the fish. 17. Colleges? We have them all. We have State Universities , Community Colleges, and Voc-techs. Folks come outta there with an education plus a love for God and country, and they still wave at everybody when they come for the holidays.. 18.Turn down that blasted car stereo! That thumpity-thump crap ain't music, anyway..We don't want to hear it anymore than we want to see your boxers. Refer back to #1. 19. Four inches of snow isn't a blizzard - it's lite flurry's. Drive in it like you got some sense, and DON'T take all our bread, milk, and bleach from the grocery stores. This ain't Alaska . Worst case you may have to live a whole day without croissants. The pickups with snowplows will have you out the next day. 20. By the way.... If you want to talk to God in Michigan , it's a local call.
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Hi, I am looking at purchasing a 2004 Midnight Black RSV. I am wondering if anyone has had their bike dynoed and what HP is actually measured on the rear wheel? Yamaha says 98 but that is at the crank. Its a shaft drive so I figure minus give or take 20% so let's say 70 to 74 HP actual? Thanks Chris in Red Deer, Alberta -
No nobody ran over me this time. I caught one of the nastiest bugs I've ever had. Cramps so bad I couldn't stand up let alone drive and must have threw up 25 times yesterday. Finally got Son-in-Law to take me to Emergency Room last night. They couldn't tell me what was wrong but got cramps stopped. I'm so weak I can hardley sit in chair. I took flu shot about 18 hrs before this started. Could that be it? Meds they gave me for cramps going to wear off and I need to go to Drug Store. I wish somebody would teach the Warden to drive. I really love that lady and she treats me like a king but has never wanted to drive. Just won't do it??
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Can't seem to find how to for replacing the final drive oil. Thanks.
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We were planning on taking a ride around a few of the lakes within an hours ride of Regina over the Thanksgiving day weekend, but i had the throttle cable break on Sat. So instead Joanne and I decided that we should take a drive on Sunday as it was a bit over 70f and a great day to be outside. Here are a few pics, and I even found another bike for Rocket to fix in a park beside one of the lakes, lol Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!! Brian
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I've got the upgraded starter drive installed, the new stator, and also a different rear wheel with good bearings and it runs great. The new starter drive by Dano works fantastic. It engages really clean and positive...no more noises of things slipping. Took the bike on a 50 mile ride yesterday and it feels great. No oil leaks and no new noises. Today I had to put on a new rear tire because my Avon had a plug in it and Barb and I are taking off for a week. The only tire I could find was a Dunlop K591 with Harley Davidson written on the side. The dealer only had one that was a little wider 150x80x16 so it was a b**ch to get in. It was so wide that I had to let the air out and PUSH to get it to go in. It has enough clearance when the shaft drive coupling engages but there isn't much room to spare on the left side at the suspension linkage coupling. I was worried how it would feel, but actually it turns very good. A lot better than the K491 did. The thread looks like a k491, but it's quiet so it has to be a little different. The price surprised me.....$130 from a dealer and only $22 to mount and balance it. For that price I let them do it. Anybody know anything about this tire?? How long do they last? Right after church tomorrow morning, Barb and I are heading south. We're going to meet our friends in the southern tip of Illinois and then spend next week in Arkansas and probably stop in Branson. Hot Springs and Mountain Home were mentioned, but we're only bumming, no schedule. Heck, we might even get to the casinos in Mississippi a little. Frank
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Friend has a '07 Suzuki Boulevard, shaft drive. He removed rear wheel to get nail hole fixed, put back together driveshaft won't turn. Told him to pull back apart and make sure he got drive shaft in yoke,done, says the engine running put in gear let out on clutch can hear noise in rear of engine like something turning but driveshaft nor yoke is turning. What does he need to do? Any suggestions?:confused24:Thanks in advance.
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I have a vibration when going around 30-35 mph feels like the drive shaft has a shutter or the u-joint. What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
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Good Morning All, Last time I rode my 2005 RSTD, I noticed a vibration at higher speed. My RSTD has about 9830 miles on it. I have read several posts here about greasing the splines in the rear hub and the drive shaft. I would like to do this before a trip that I have scheduled for the 24th. Can any of you direct me to existing threads with step by step instructions on what must be removed to accomplish this? For instance, is it necessary to remove the rear fender and the exhaust header pipes? I am mechanically inclined, but I haven't ever removed the rear wheel on a shaft drive motorcycle before. Also, I have read threads where people have ruined seals trying to remove the drive shaft. I want the bike to be safe for this trip, but at the same time, I don't want to do anything stupid that will end up causing me to not be able to take the bike on the trip. So can any of you point me in the direction of some step by step instructions of this process? (Pictures would help if available.) Thanking You In Advance. Regards, Tony -
I have a 500 gig western digital hard drive that took a fall while I was in Afgahnistan does anyone on the site have the whatever it takes to get the data off of the platters I can tell you this that the motor locked solid and the platters both have a white square mark that showes where the heads were are supposed to park Thanks Jeff
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While removing my rear wheel to have a new tire put on, I decided to lube the drive shaft end that goes into the pumpkin. I have lubed the shaft end that went into the U-joint, but was never able to get the shaft out of the pumpkin end. The oil seal was stuck. I slide a mechanics pick around the oil seal and it came right out. However, I noticed the pinion was really loose. I could move it around - axially - by an 1/8 inch or so. Not good. Showed it to the mechanic at the local dealer and he agreed the nose bearing is likely shot. I typically replace the rear drive fluid every time I change the oil. The last several changes I noticed a good sized ball of shavings on the magnetic plug. Now I know where these shavings are coming from. Took the rear drive apart and the pinion nose bearing is shot. Unfortunately, the outer race is worn down so far there is not a shoulder to press against to remove it. Heated the race hosing with a butane torch and it tried to move it, but no go. The inner race on the pinion nose looks frosted (micro tearing of the metal, soon leading to full spalling). OK, bottom line - I need a rear pumpkin. Anyone have one available they would like to sell? Guess the KLR is going to see some additional miles over the next few weeks. RR
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Just can't justify (a camouflaged verb for poor and almost broke) the Zumo 665 with all the nice radio, weather, traffic and etc. Is there a simple replacement for my tape deck that will allow me to plug in a USB flash drive thats loaded with my choice BLUEGRASS??? I have been using my MP3 player but the cord and dead batteries are an issue. Just:fishin: for a :dancefool:solution so I can with a :301:Freddie.
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As a followup to at least one other thread, I thought I'd stir the pot a bit because I just don't see the point of "over maintenance". Specifications for the RSV say... change oil @ 8,000 miles (13,000 kilometers) and change final drive oil @ 16,000 miles (25,000 kilometers). So, that means every second oil change, change the final drive oil. Some folks here feel it necessary to change their oil sooner... 3,000 miles, 5,000 miles ... overkill in my book ... "old school mentality". Some folks here also feel that, since they are changing their oil, why not change the final drive oil as well. To me, that is a waste of time and money. At least one person stated that, when they changed their final drive fluid (at the same time as changing their oil), it was BLACK and smelled BURNT. Now, assuming their changing their oil at the 8,000 mile mark (or sooner), then to you I say "you have a problem with your final drive" because under normal circumstances (and even at 16,000 miles intervals) it should NOT be black and smell burnt. I last changed my final drive oil at 18,852 kilometers. (Yes it was done at the 1,000 km service). I changed it again today at 28,076 kilometers (a difference of 9224 km or 5,730 miles) and well before the recommended interval of 16,000 miles. Here is a picture of what it looks like. As you can see, the old oil is definately not black and I can tell you that is certainly does not smell burnt. In fact, it looks perfectly normal to me. [ATTACH]49615[/ATTACH] My point(s) here being... If you are changing your final drive oil at every oil change and that is at 8,000 miles or less, then you're wasting your time and money. Do you have your differential oil in your car/truck changed at every oil change??? (I think not) Then why not I ask...if you do it on your bike... why be different with your cage? If you're changing your final drive oil at every oil change and that is at 8,000 miles or less, and it is coming out smelling BURNT and is BLACK then something is WRONG and you need to find out what that is. Everyone is entitled to doing their "own thing" and I'm not discrediting anyone for that but quite frankly, I really don't see your reasoning for changing oil at 1/2 (or less than) the recommended intervals. Having said all of the above, I hereby admit to changing not only my bikes engine oil & filter but also my final drive oil at considerably less intervals than what is recommended. (WTF..???) :witch_brew:
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Well, after servicing my bike, I've run across a potential issue. When I pulled the drive shaft out of the swingarm to check the upper splines, a coil of metal was wrapped around it. Looked like the coils that spin out of steel when it is drilled. I had a look up the drive shaft tunnel and all looked well...no leaks and everything in place...as far as I could tell. After all was back together, it seemed to be running just as it should...until the rumble started. The description is somewhat typical of what has been described before; quiet with power on, a low rumble on deceleration, somewhat quieter with the clutch in. Being the paranoid type...I'm going to have to discover what the hell this noise is. What I've done so far is slip the swingarm boot back to look at the yoke. The bolt is in place so that shaft isn't broken. There is no detectable in or out play in the output shaft. There is very little rotational play in the mesh with the drive gear, (as gauged by slowly turning the shaft and listening for the tiny click when the gears touch). Total slack in the drive system with the bike in first is about 2 inches, measured at the wheel. With the bike in neutral on the center stand, the rear wheel spins easily, without resistance or binding. When I roll the wheel forward by handd, (which dynamically puts the same forces on the system as deceleration), I can feel a slight rumble which feels like gears meshing somewhat roughly. It smooths out when rolling the wheel backwards. With a stethoscope, I pinned down that the rumble is coming from the pumpkin, not the middle shaft. So now I'm going to try a few things. Tonight I will loosen the 4 nuts holding the pumpkin to the swingarm and see if there is enough movement to realign the shaft a bit. If that fails, I will remove the pumpkin completely to check for play. (When I had the pumpkin off to service the rear end, I pulled the shaft out of the pumpkin. The seal came with the shaft, completely intact so it was reusable. The input shaft stayed with the pumpkin indicating that the shaft was also intact.) I'll basically have a good poke around and see what's what. I'm hoping for an easy fix but am prepared for tears and pouting. Attached are some pics of a strange bit of metal I found wound around the shaft when I pulled it from the swingarm. I have no idea where it's from....I'll have a better look when I'm in there again...unless it fixes itself then it will have to wait until the snow blows. -
Final drive? How much should there be if any? I just finished changing the oil in the final drive ,while the bike is on the center stand I decided to shake some stuff around, there is a small but noticeable amount of side play in the final drive halves, I need to know if its normal, abby-normal or ? Question #2 I don't think that the cooling fan is working, If I hook it direct to a battery and the fan runs then I guess I can figure that the fan is good but a sending unit or something else is bad, Is this sending unit up under the top of the fairing behind the head light? Thanks
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I needed to grease the splines, so I also took the drive shaft out,,,, not a biggie,,, I done this before, even wrote on how to do it the easy way, without extra tools. Now it WON"T go in,,, it just won't go in,,, I mean it just won't engage. I can wiggle the u-joint, turn the U-joint, see the u-joint, get the shaft started into the u-joint, but it won't engage. Anybody have any ideas???????? 4 hours at this, and I'm a little frustrated.
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Whew...! I just got done servicing the rear end of my bike...what a joy. I put on a new E3 rear tire, cleaned, greased and installed zerks in the lower rear shock mount hardware, greases the drive shaft, (the top splines were dry but clean). I got a tube of heavy, hi temp moly grease, (less than 6 bucks at Canada's handyman wonderland, Princess Auto), and lubed the crap out of everything. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet since my mufflers are in for repair. When I took them off, they sounded like they were full of ball bearings. I sawed the back off and bashed, beat and pried until the loose bits came out. I will weld it up tomorrow, (minus the crappy guts), and then wrap it in heat tape. It should be purdy...
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Since I have my wheel off waiting for a tire. I decided to seperate the shaft from the drive to inspect "stuff" aka pinion nut. Pinion nut = good. I did this 15 years ago. Wow, how have things changed. NOW, the seal I believe needs to be replaced. Basically there is a rust ring left by the rubber seal where it mates to the drive. Plus the original seal was never sitting straight. So the rust ring is not even. Basicallly the seal is "tipped". And a new seal would likely be better than the original. Here's the kicker...this ain't no average seal. It appears to be on the shaft with a VERY tight metal collar. I suspect if I do get this seal off there will be rust under the collar. Anyone ever change this seal? HELP See pics...
