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Showing results for tags 'drain'.
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I have a 1997 Royal Star Tour Deluxe, I want to drain the old 5w fork oil and put 10w oil My front forks are all chrome (not sure if that makes a difference) Is there a way to drain and Refill the Fork Oil without taking he whole thing apart! Thanks pete ptynning@msn.com
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Just changed the oil in the RSV after the long hot trip to FLA and back, and for the 3rd change in a row, I'm only getting just under 3 qts. of oil to drain out, including what's in the filter. And it's only taking the same amount of new oil to cover the view window to the 3/4 mark when the bike is upright after running the new stuff through for 10 or 15 minutes. Either I'm doing something really wrong or dumb, or the capacity is off by a good 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of oil. I check the level before and after every ride I take, and I've never had to add any after the fact either. Very strange.
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Changing coolant tonight, reviewing the coolant change tips etc. (Thanks for those). Did the complete drain including water pump, but did not want to remove the exhaust, Just not a fan of that. So started looking at it and what I had in my tool box and Bam! Serpentine belt tool. If you happen to have the one I have, its a Lisle if I remember correctly, and it comes with a set of three different size very shallow sockets and the end of the socket has a hex that fits into the flat bar for the serpentine belt. And yes it fits in from the side without removing the exhaust. Total depth of everything is less than an inch. One caveat is my particular set only comes with an 18mm socket (3/4" equivalent). It is a six point and fits well enough to remove the drain bolt. If you have an older bike with some miles or the coolant has never been changed in years and you suspect the drain bolt might be stuck ( after all its a steel bolt into aluminum), This might not work.My bike at 4 1/2 ears old and 16,000 miles, the bolt broke loose easily. I'll check and see if Lisle has a 17mm that fits my Serpentine belt tool. The tool comes with a drive adapter too so I could grind down a 17 mm socket to get it shallow enough to work in the future. I'll try and post a picture tomorrow. Getting too late. Having said all that, when I saw what came out of the water pump drain bolt, even having the ability to remove it easily, I probably wouldn't bother pulling it again. But for those who like to get out every last drop, but don't want to pull the exhaust, here's one way to do it. RSTDdog
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After putting the carbs back on in the process of rebuilding after the second gear repair, a couple of them are leaking slightly out of the drain hoses. The drain screws are fairly tight (don't want to over tighten). Any tips/thoughts on how to stop the drips? Amazing how a little gas can stink out the whole garage... driving the Mrs nuts. Other than the leaking carbs, so far no other leaks that I can see ... fingers crossed. TIA
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It has been raining like I have never seen it rain. For over an hour it has been raining at 1 inch every 10 minutes, with 36 more hours of rain in the forecast. The sewer and drainage systems were not designed for this kind of rain. My basement has a river coming in. The basement does not leak, the water has overflowed the back door and is running down the steps. There is nothing that I can do to stop it. My house was built in the 1800s there is no floor drain. There is nothing of value on the floor other than the lathe and mill. I'll see how bad it is in the morning, maybe I'll have to skip work to start bailing, (remember no floor drain) the only way to get water out is to pick it up and move it. Oh poo. I guess I know what I am doing for the next couple of days. OK Whine over for now.
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OK, just curious here, I changed the coolant a few weeks ago and have had a slight drip out of the plug under what I am assuming is the water pump (what I used to drain the coolant). I went into the local shop and ordered the gasket for it (part 13 on the attached diagram). This is a metal part with a lip on one side. Is that the right part and if so, which was does the lip go. I was expecting a rubber gasket or something to hold the fluid in! http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/YAMAHA/1989/Motorcycles/327_waterpump.gif
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I have one of the drain hoses on my 86 that fell off. Drain is just leaking down between cylinders. Any trick to hook that thing back up without pulling carbs??
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like a puddle of rusty water surrounding the base of your water heater with no obvious drips from the pipes, pressure relief valve, or the drain. I bet ya'll can guess what I will be doing tomorrow...
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(The information in this post would serve well to be included in the tech library with the other coolant change information.) I changed my coolant the other day for the first time. After reading all of the very helpful posts and the Tech Library, the only thing I noticed was that there were no tips on how to do it without creating a mess, especially when draining the cylinders. Sooo, I spent more time visualizing and figuring than I did actually draining the coolant, but I did come up with a method that resulted in no mess on the engine or floor. This will make my, and hopefully your, next coolant change a little easier and less messy. As well, I found that at 2 inch long screw of the proper thread size was easier to use for pulling the cylinder side drain plugs than using the cumbersome spark plug. I didn't repeat the steps on how to get to the radiator cap and how to remove of the side covers, as this information is already well documented in the tech library. PHOTO 1 - Side Cover Drain Bottle Get a 16 oz soda bottle, the type that is smooth sided because it flexes better. Cut an angle across the bottom end and cut out room for your fingers to pull the plug on the top side. You can do a few test fits with the bottle to get the angle right. You will need the cap screwed onto the bottle when you use it. PHOTO 2 - Draining Radiator Put the bike on a jack and raise it high enough to clear a 5 gallon bucket. Remove the radiator cap, then the radiator drain plug and the radiator will speed dump with no mess. - - - - - - - Next, you will want to grab a large bath towel (preferably not the one your wife just bought at Kohl's). While I only dripped about 1 ounce of coolant onto the towel while draining cylinder 3, I used under the drain bottle on each cylinder to catch any dribbles (and this was the first time I tried this method and didn't know how well it would work). Photos 3-5 illustrate how I placed the towel and the drain bottle for cylinders 1, 3, and 4. (I saved cylinder 2 for last, as it involves making a chute out of packing tape to flow the coolant to the bottle.) The drain plugs are in place in all of the pics, as I took the pics after I drained each cylinder. The coolant in the drain bottle is from the respective cylinder pictured. PHOTO 3 - Draining Cylinder 1 PHOTO 4 - Draining Cylinder 3 PHOTO 5 - Draining Cylinder 4 - - - - - - - - The last step is draining cylinder 2. The location of the drain plug for cylinder 2 does not allow for the angling of the drain bottle. I saved this for last because it took a little construction of a chute made of packing tape. Tear three strips of packing tape long enough to go from the side of the cylinder to about 2 or 3 inches past the side of the chrome engine cover. One strip will be the middle strip with the sticky side down. The other two strips get folded in half lengthwise over the left and right third of the middle strip. Then abut one end of this tape contraption to the side of the cylinder and press the center portion down so it sticks to the top of the engine and along the groove of the chrome engine cover. You now have a little rain gutter to carry the coolant to your drain bottle. PHOTO 6 - Cylinder 2 tape chute PHOTO 7 - Cylinder 2 tape chute viewed from side angle PHOTO 8 - Cylinder 2 draining - - - - - - - - - - My coolant drain amounts were as follows: Radiator - 80 oz (2.5 qts) Cylinder 1 - 5 oz Cylinder 2 - 2 oz Cylinder 3 - 2 oz (this accounts for the 1 oz that spilled into towel) Cylinder 4 - 3 oz Reservoir - 10 oz (was at the "Full" line) Total - 102 oz (3.19 qts) I didn't drain the water pump. Every post I've read and folks I have spoken with said they only got 4 oz, at most, out of the water pump and the headache of getting to the plug outweighed the amount of fluid I would get out. Hope this has been of some help to others out there. Phoenix (If anyone would like higher resolution pics, let me know and I can email the high resolution originals to you.)
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This one should get some really good responses! Last evening while attending the local chapter (SCRC) monthly meeting I was talking with another RSV owner about issues with his Venture(2008). Seems his fuel pump went out and left him stranded a few month's ago. I brought up the mystery power drain that my 2006 was having if it set in the garage for more than a week. He stated that he had the same problem with his wifes BMW and also his Venture on one occasion. He was told it was related to the concrete garage floor and walls. Had to do with amount of moisture in garage and the age old 'Do not store a battery on a concrete floor' as it will drain it. He was told to place a dehumidifier in his garage and te problem will go away. Well he did just that and says the problems is not near as bad as without one. He states the bikes can set for up to a month and still have cranking power. Is there anything to this theory?
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Does any one leave there gas line open w/gas saver in it or do you drain the gas out of carb Ron
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Hi all. Is there a way to drain the carbs without removing the tank?
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I thought I'd post a few comments for those who have not been through this before. It is not hard as long as you have the proper tools. T-handle allen wrenches are almost mandatory for me - they make turning out the many socket head screws fast and easy. In addition, if you follow the manual (Method #1 below), you really want a set of long ball-end 3/8" drive allen wrenches for use with your ratchet. If you follow the shop manual, the job is pretty straight forward, but you will have one frustrating surprise. I have detailed the full drain procedure first as Method #1, then two slightly modified procedures that some might prefer at the expense of not getting out quite as much of the old coolant. The first steps apply to all three methods: You start by removing the seat, tank, both lower fairings and all three battery covers. Don't forget to remove that top center #3 Philips screw on the middle cover; it is kind of hidden! The cover slips out to the left fairly easily, but you do need to watch down in the middle for hoses and wire bundles that will hang up on the corners. Now you are ready to begin draining the fluid. METHOD #1 - The Complete Drain: The radiator drain bolt is obvious on the bottom left, and getting the overflow tank out is pretty easy too. It is only held on by one bolt and a couple of lugs in rubber grommets. Just use your fingers to push that plastic shield above it up so you can pull the filler neck forward and out to the right side. Some folks prefer to siphon out the overflow tank instead of removing it, but I don't know why; taking it out is MUCH easier than messing with a siphon hose! (But you don't have to remove the center or left side battery covers if you are not going to remove the tank.) Note: If you remove the radiator cap before you take out the radiator drain bolt, the coolant will drain VERY fast with quite a bit of splashing; you may want to let it drain mostly on it's own before you take that cap off! Next you will want to pull the fake cylinder fins off and take out the rubber plugs; use an old spark plug to screw into the plug and pull it out. Each cylinder water jacket holds quite a bit of coolant - seemed like about 1/2 cup each but could have been less - and those fin covers pop off very quickly with a 5mm T-handle. Make sure you leave the right front cover off until you finish with the next step! The frustrating surprise will come when you try to drain the water pump. The drain plug is a 17mm plug angled forward in the bottom of the chrome water pump cover, right next to the bend in the header pipe. The service manual says absolutely nothing about this other than to just take out the plug. Good LUCK! Absolutely no way to get on it with normal tools unless you loosen the header pipe. The good news is that you don't have to actually remove the pipe, just loosen the clamp at the front of the Y joint and remove the two socket head nuts on the header clamp (this is where you will really appreciate the long ball-end allen wrenches for your ratchet!). Once the header pipe is loose enough to pull a bit to the outside near the floor board, it is easy to remove the drain plug with a normal 17mm socket and a wobble extension or u-joint. Now you are ready to put all the drain plugs back in and replace the fin covers (make sure to get that header pipe back in place before you put the right front cover on!). DO NOT over tighten the radiator drain plug - that is all plastic, and the torque spec is ONLY 22 inch pounds. Even with the proper torque wrench, that is so light you can't hardly tell it has clicked, so you could still easily over-tighten and damage it. To me, the right tightness seems to be about what you can do just with your hand on a long 3/8" extension WITHOUT the ratchet. That's it. Only thing left is to mix up 3.5 liters of 50/50 coolant and fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line, then carefully fill the radiator to the top of the neck. Put the radiator cap back on and run the engine for a minute or so (plenty of fuel in the carbs to do this without the tank) to let the coolant settle, then top off the coolant at the radiator cap. Now put it all back together and take your bike out for a short ride to get the motor fully up to temperature and check for leaks. Then after it completely cools off, check the overflow tank and top up to the Full mark if necessary (if there were any air-pockets left when you filled the coolant, some of the fluid from the overflow tank will be sucked in as the engine cools). METHOD #2 - Skipping the Water Pump Drain (almost as good as #1): Several folks have said they prefer to just drain the radiator and try to flush the rest of the coolant out with distilled water (see posts below), so I include these corner-cutting options as Methods 2 & 3. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator. Now pull each of the fake fin covers and pop out that little rubber plug. You will notice that coolant that drains from each water jacket still seems bright green, showing the "flush" was incomplete (that's why you are still doing these plugs). With the radiator plug back in and the fin covers back on, it is time to refill with coolant. But this time you have left some distilled water or highly diluted coolant in the engine, so it is best to not use pre-mixed coolant. Add about 1.75 liters of straight coolant, some to the overflow tank (1/2 full) and the rest to the radiator. Now top up both with distilled water and run the engine for a minute to work out any air pockets, then re-top the radiator with distilled water. METHOD #3 - Short and Sweet and Hope For The Best: In this method you skip draining both the water pump AND the cylinder water jackets. You will be leaving some of the old coolant in there to mix with the new, but some folks find this OK. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator and flush it again just like above. After two flushes you probably noticed a much lighter green color to the water on the last drain, so it is time to add new coolant and button it all back up. But remember, not only are you leaving some water/coolant in the water pump, you are also leaving it in the water jackets too, so you need to use a lower amount of new coolant in the fill. My guess of the right mix would be to add only 1.25 liters of coolant and then top it all off with distilled water. That's it folks, all done for another couple of years! My personal choice is Method #1. Even with the need to loosen the header pipe, it really isn't that difficult, and it doesn't take any more time than adding the engine flushes on the other methods. But whichever method you use, it is certainly better than not changing it at all. So now that the maintenance is done, let's rack up some miles! Enjoy the ride! Goose
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I saw on another site that plastic can be repaired with inexpensive PVC glue. While I haven't tried it yet, it makes sense. IIRC Lowes has glue for ABS drain pipe, which may even be better. Any one ever try this route?
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Well, I got the carbs put back together and re-installed on the bike (my first time). After I got the bike put back together, I decided to take her for a spin and she ran like a dream:usa:. She did have a hard time idling though. When I got back from around the block, I seen a puddle of fuel on the ground:yikes:. Come to find out, I had accidently left the #1 carb drain open. Easy fix....until I took closer look, I noticed that the drain line was not the only thing leaking fuel. Appearently all 4 carbs were leaking fuel and I know that I put the covers back on tight when I re-assembled them:soapbox:. I guess my question is.....how often do you have to replace the O-ring that seals the cover to the carb?
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My drain cock assembly was leaking. I took the plug out and found that the O-ring was missing. I figured that was the problem. I ordered a O-ring from the local Yamaha dealership and I picked it up today. I got all off the pieces together and found that I am missing that little tiny ball that sits on top of the spring. Are there places that might have them? If so, what size is that little ball? Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated. Todd -
There is a small hole in the front bottom of each muffler that I assume is a drain hole. when I push a small screw driver into he hole it only goes into the outer chamber of the muffler and not to the inside. I was running some Seafoam through the other day and noticed smoke coming out of the small drain holes. Is this normal for exhaust to come out of the drain holes? If you hold your hand under the hole the exhaust is coming out at a pretty good flow. Second question. I replaced the four engine exhaust gaskets. Now it appears that the left rear is leaking between the collector and rear left exhaust pipe. Should I have replaced the wide copper bands inside at each joint as well?
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I own a 2006 RSV(Black Cherry) and have a electrical drain problem that has plaqued me for several months now. The bike has been to the local dealership four times over the past few monthes for this issue but nothing has been found???? The 1st time in the shop they said it was just a bad battery (2 yrs.old) and charged me over $100 for new battery and labor. Less than two weeks later it was totally dead again. Back to the shop and they kept it almost 2 weeks with a volt/ohm meter hooked up to it. Nothing found, they said it might have been a bad battery and gave me another one at no charge. A few weeks later the same scenario.................... Went to ride and nothing, no juice???? Back to the shop for another week and nothing was found to be at fault. They charged the battery and left it hooked up for a week with no drain????? I spent last week in the mountains in and around Tellico Plains, Tn (The Snake, The Devil's Triangle, The Dragon and Wayah Road) I took my Suzuki Boulevard C90 on this trip as it it lighter and really handles the twisties much better. Anyway, upon returning home I went to clean the RSV and turn the key and................................... Nothing! My volt meter read 3.5 volts. I monitor this forum daily and believe that the knowledge and expertise is truly right here to resolve this puzzle. I plan a 6000 trip to Montana in July and do not want to take the RSV unless this problem can be fixed. Has anyone else experienced a similar situation and shed some light on the fix????? Help ! Bugsplat
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Hi Everyone. I am the proud owner of a 2008 RSTD I picked it up last Wednesday and am comming very close to my 1st service. My manual says change oil and filter as well as changing gear oil in rear end. I went to the dealer to get oil and filter and was informed that there are 2 drain plugs on the engine. Is this true? it seems odd to have 2 drain plugs. If there are 2 where are they, and are they both easy to get to? Thanks for any advice Racso -
Are rads from 83-85 interchangeable to a 87 1300? Hose fittings / drain petcock etc.
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Radiator Drain Upgrade!
skydoc_17 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I am shamelessly plugging a classified ad I have posted in the First Gen. Parts Section. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1724 It is the "Fix" for the leaking drain right below the radiator. Included are a new O'Ring and a new Stainless Steel Allen Head Cap Screw and S.S. lock washer to replace the Phillip's Head Screw. Install the upgrade and no more leak. Shipping is included in the price. The three pics below are location of drain, old parts and parts in upgrade. PayPal, Checks, Money Orders excepted. Earl -
I have been one of those VR owners that from time to time had a small puddle of coolant under the front of my 87'VR. Today, after draining the coolant, I pulled that @#$% Phillips head screw, removed the Drain plug and chased the ball and spring all across the shop floor. Who knew this was going to be this much fun! I cleaned up the Drain Plug and removed the old O'ring. I then cleaned the bore the Drain Plug goes into with Steel Wool. I installed the new O'ring, returned the spring and ball to it's rightful place, put the plug back into the bore and at this point I decided I didn't want to deal with that @#$% Phillips head screw so I replaced it with a Stainless Steel Allen Head cap screw and lock washer. Boy was it easier to tighten up that cap screw then that Phillips head screw! After filling the coolant and a test drive, guess what, No more leak! I attached some pics below. Earl
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I have a question about the passing lamp install. I have read about using a 30amp relay and running the power right off the battery so the fuse is under the seat next to the battery. doesn't this drain the battery? Also wouldn't this keep the lights on even if the ignition is off? any help would be appriciated. Thanks
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1. If your horns are not loud, take them off, remove the back cover, loosen the adjusting screw and nut and readjust for the loudest noise. Cover your ears! 2. Grease the hand and foot levers often, You'll be surprised how much easier they will operate and last. Do this often in wet climates. 3. Drop the carb needle jets to get better gas mileage. 4. On Std. models the area under the trunk under a black plastic cover is empty. I easily converted it to tool storage. 5. On Std models remove the fairing pockets/trays/compartments and cut it out . This will double your storage space. Fill in gaps with pink insulation? Carry light items only. 6. Cup holder: Walmart bicycle cup holder, $5, mount to handlebar. Use a metal insulated covered cup from $1 stores. 7. Wire tie the 2 side panel blackstraps to the frame so you don't loose them. $10 each from Yamaha! 8. The removeable rear trunks on MK1's have an adjustment on the underside brackets to tighten them up so they don't rattle as much. 9. My Venture leaned over too far on the side stand I easily extended it by adding a wood block under the foot. 1/2" thick. 10. I added a electrical brake light switch to the right handlebar to flash tailgators and when slowing down slowly. 11. If the trunk opens too far, hitting the driver in the back. Add a 2 piece lever that pivots in the center so the top lid only opens just over center. 12. The wires were too tight under the handlebar covers so I added a longer screw and spacer to give then more room. 13. On the rear fender the black extension gets dirty and muddy. I put silicone glue on the inner underside between to painted fender and black extension to keep it clean. 14. 2nd brake light $7 Ebay 24 LEDs mount on license bracket. 15. The blue high beam indicator is hard to see if it is "on" in the daylight (I drive with my brights on ALL the time, maybe why I'm still alive?) drill a very small hole in the center so you can see white light and recover with clear tape. 16. Footpegs vibrate? Put a small rubber insulator (inner tube?) between metal parts on the fold down stops. 17. Lots of slop on gear shift and foot brake lever? Put some thin teflon inside the pivots. 18. Aluminum screening on the radiator behind the grill will keep bugs and stones from going thru or plugging the radiator. 19. MK1's: drain the front air box drain hose back to the crankcase ventilation hose with a "T". 20. Loosely packed course steel wool will keep oil from entering the air cleaner in the crankcase vent hose line. (Or keep oil level at 1/2 way mark, scarely to me on long trips) 21. Glue the YICS box seam/joint before it starts leaking. 22. Glue the 4 air box intake rubbers in place so they don't leak or turn. See the tab on under side for positioning. 23. I took a good looking leather bag and converted it into a tank bag (don't laugh it's a purse with lots of pockets). Be Careful when doing tight turns. 24. There is a battery box drain hole (left rear) that just needs a hose attached to it so if you get a leaking battery it won't drain onto the engine, electronics, & solenoid, etc. 25. Use silicone (dielectric) grease on the intake boots, carb diaphrams, & all rubber to keep them soft. DON"T DO THIS!
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1984 with 19k miles total, leaks more than it burns. After just 5,000 miles most of the inside of the air box is covered in oil. Then the carbs get soaked inside and out too. 1. Thinking about loosely putting some course steel wool in the breather tube at the multi-purpose chamber between the cylinders. This should seperate the oil from the bypass gases. 2. Then connecting the drain hose in the front of the air box to vaccuum to drain off any oil back to the engine. Any thoughts or other ideas?
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