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Showing results for tags 'dash'.
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Looks like i am finally going to get started on the repair/restoration of my 88VR. I am looking for fairing halvs in good or poor condition but repariable, I might even consider pieces that i can use to make what i have already got whole. Probably going to need the dash panels too... Just wanted to give Y'all first shot before i go to the web in seach of parts.
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So, both my dash speakers and headset speakers play a different tune. It is same whether on the radio or throught the cassette adaptor. Left dash speaker and left headset speaker = engine noise Right dash speaker and right headset speaker = music I have put space between the spark plug wires and any wires. The wires are the NGK set off of ebay. What is wrong? -
I hate posting this but I just had a pretty major electrical fire in my sidecar. While going to breakfast my son put a dime in the electrical outlet on the dash of my escort. By the time I was able to pull over there was smoke coming from under the dash and then the electrical connector to the bike started smoking and melting, followed by smoke comining out from under the seat. Luckly everybody was able to get out with much more than a red spot on a finger. I unplugged the sidecar but it doesn't appear that the sidecar was wired very well when it was put together for me as they didn't use the right sized fuses and it appears to have fried my dash panel on my Royal Star Venture. I cannot get the brake lights or turn signals to work but all the running lights are working. The connector is fried, wires melted enough to break and the wires under the seat are melted pretty bad. I tied calling SideStrider to see if they could help but I havent gotten a call back yet. I'm not sure about getting home or what to do. Any help in the Universal City area of Los Angeles would be greatly appreciated. Ron McDonald Normaly from Lakewood Washington but currently stranded in Los Angeles
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I've been thinking about doing some tinkering with my dash, but since I ride year round, that would require me to get another dash housing. anyone have one? I ride an early '83, so no shift lights and cruise, won't need a tach, speedo, volt meter, temp guage or computer either, clock doesn't need to work either. I.e. basically I just need the box. Let me know. Thanks!!
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Hey Guys I have a 83 VR and on the way back from Dons this yr my left dash vent blew out at about 75. It is still on the highway in about a hundred peices. Woundering if anyone has one they dont need? It would be the left one as you sit on the bike by the speaker. Thanks Bull463
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I am trying to bring 83 Venture back to life. I have pretty much done most of the major stuff but I have not figured out how to get into the dash to replace 3 bulbs. Is it necessary to remove the dash or can the bulbs be replaced without removing the dash. It seem like a lot of trouble to remove the dash.
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Where can I get brighter dash bulbs... L E D bulbs ? Site and numbers will help. thank you cb
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I have a friend that has no computer but does have an 86 VR. Anyhow he is having health issues and at the moment cannot ride. He is waiting for eye sugery. In the meantime we are trying to get his bike ready for when he is. His Dash is toast. The speedo and Computer readout are not working at all. Does anyone have a complete dash they are willing to part with for a MkII? If you do PM me with a price please. Wayne
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Someone here posted about a LCD dash for the 1st gens tryed the search , did not work , anybody know where it is ? i have found a few for m/c but they are too small to see , only 4 in. across . is it possible to remove a small lcd screen and install a larger one ? i would like to get rid of the cms and use LCD plus i have a 75 Lincoln i am installing a PC in and would like to use this http://www.fusioncontrolcentre.com/FusionStore//catalog/index.php to connect the speedo , oil and temp senders , elec window and lites too the PC . Anybody know if there is software to do this ? i can get lcd the rite size but i am short on brains and long on want ! Dumb Thom -- but i can fix RVs and trailer bike well !!
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I currently have an 07 blue / black Venture. I've been tossing around the idea of changing the color to Sunkist Orange. When I was a teen, one of my friends painted their Sportster that color. Can the dash be painted on the Venture? Craigr
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Got 83VR non running, lot of work later runs great but tach reads low, and slow to respond to throttle changes. Dash was FULL of ants, disassembled, and flushed ants out with water, then dried with aircompressor. Any way to verify tach signal at rear of dash correct? Volts?, Ohms? Think this signal is pulsing ground/vs 12v behind coil#2 @2xRPM?, May put o-scope on just to see what it reads. Haven't used my scope in long time-hope it still works. Suspect tach gears/springs may have light corrosion needs lube (pull dash again:(), but would like to verify everything else first.
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I have just purchased a new KOSO GP Style Tachometer with Water Temperature, BA551B23, (first item on page 12 here): http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/ Paid $150, delivered. The idea was to reduce the number of gauges I need by one to fit them all under the dash, like this: [ATTACH]46369[/ATTACH] So far, my report is decidedly mixed. First, the gauge is very impressive in the details of construction and parts supplied. But that is dampened by the absolute WORST Chinenglish - no, let me rephrase that - the documentation that comes with this thing is not NEAR good enough to be even derisively called Chinenglish - let's say Chinengiliberish! Not only is the wording so bad that much of it is totally unintelligible, but a few very key points are absolutely WRONG! The wiring harness is very impressive, with each section connected by plugs. The harness for the water temp sensor is just barely long enough for our bike, but I guess that is better than being too short! The tach input can be picked up by EITHER connecting to a coil or wrapping a wire around a spark plug lead. Compared to the minimal length of the temp sensor wires, the wires for connecting to a coil are plenty long enough to connect to your buddy's machine as he rides next to you on the highway. The gauge mounting hardware is all rubber mounted, and while the bar clamp is specifically sized to use on a normal 7/8" bar, it will work on our 1" bars with a bit of effort. The gauge itself is a bit larger than the 1 7/8" mini Drag Specialties tach which I prefer, but if you get it positioned just right it does fit under the dash at full lock, but just barely! Partially because this gauge is completely electronic, the wire connections are just slightly different than usual - one wire connects to battery hot, and another wire connects to ignition 12V. There is no separate wire for dash lights, so they are on all the time. While this probably makes no difference to most folks, it irks me a bit since I have the other gauges wired separately to a switch specifically for dash lights. Oh well . . . I can learn to live with that. The tach is truly a universal tach, as there are settings to select for both two stroke and four stroke engines, from one cylinder all the way up to 12 cylinders! But you do need quite a bit of imagination to understand what the instructions are trying to tell you about how to set those selections. Likewise, the temperature gauge can be set to display either Celsius or Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, the biggest issue is that the gauge did not work for more than 5 minutes! Everything seemed fine when I first hooked it up and set the proper formats, but the next time I turned the key on, the LCD display (temperature and configuration settings) was completely blank. The tach still seems to work OK, and the lights are on, but I can't get anything from the mode buttons or any display at all on the LCD screen. So now I am waiting to see how much trouble it will be to get this thing replaced. I'll let y'all know how that comes out. Goose
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Has anyone any experience with a unit like this on a first gen Venture? Could I retire my 26 y.o. dash board instruments en mass with one of these? Thanks, Brian H. -
90 venture high beam will not work. when hi beam switch is pressed, the headlight lamp on dash lites up, and the entire dash dims. Checked the headlight bulb and it is good. Where do we go from here? Could it be the switch itself? Its my cousin's bike, and he's trying to get it registered in San Antonio. Bought the bike in Indiana, and it was delivered to him. Thanks for any help/advice in solving this issue. If anyone lives near Mico Texas, and can help that would be cool. Its his first bike, so he's a bit at a loss here.
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I would be skeered of a part described as "Seems to be in good shape" i don't know if this is one of us, but, here is the ad - http://cgi.ebay.ca/83-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ1200-XVZ-1200-Speedometer-Gauges_W0QQitemZ190358688687QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2c524313af
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I found a great 92 Venture today and decided it needed a new home. The problem with it is the computer monitor system (CMS) does not work No fuel indication ETC.. Can anyone tell me where the CMS Control unit is located and maybe a part number. I know it's is behind the dash, but there is 4 black boxes behind the dash. If you have a CMS control unit shot me a price. I'm also looking for a stock seat. This one has a Corbin on it and it sets me up to high. You can e-mail me at pandlbiker@olp.net. Thanks Phill
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Never fails I got the title in the mail my 04 Silverado is paid in full. I started the truck up last night and the service engine light came on but it runs fine. No time to have it checked and I'm leaving for New York this week.There used to be a paper clip shorting method on the under dash service plug that would spit out the error codes. I think those had the 12 pin diagnostic plugs. Mine has a 16 pin plug under the drivers side dash Is there a way I can put it in test mode to get the stored error code. It is probably something mnor but I need to know before leaving.
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The odometer on my 83 stopped working. The dealer wants $300 for a new speedometer assembly but I am considering buying a complete 86 dash off ebay. Will the speedo assembly swap into my 83? Also, can I reset the odometer to show the milage on my bike? -
Somebody PLEASE find me some gauges this color in 1 1/2" size. They would go GREAT with the RSV dash. http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2950&sid=16
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I've been unsuccessful by searching so here's my question. Is it possible to adjust the bars on the RSTD. All I'm looking to do is raise the grips so they're an inch or so higher than they are right now. I can't see because of the dash so hoping somebody can explain how to do this. thanks Greg
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Before I start ripping the dash apart, can someone tell me if the dash components can be easily separated? As it stands, I cannot use the whole dash on my project bike.
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I didn't really know how to title this but hopefully I can get some advice here. ** I have indicated with the asterisks where the point you can jump to in order to get the jest of what I am looking for, but if you care to read about what happened, begin here. I am planning a trip (~3500 to maybe 5000 miles) in a week so I decided to make a test run today with some new gear that I picked up and some of the fine tuning of the bike to get an idea of what I may need to adjust, etc. Well, I get about 150 miles East of Lubbock, Texas and the dash lights get real bright for about 5 seconds and there is all sorts of crazy static and what literally sounded like microphone feedback (a positive feedback loop) coming out of the radio and the headsets. So first thing I do is turn off the CB, then the radio and the noise stops. The bike seems to be running fine through all of this, so I pull over to check the lights (I figured a bulb blew out on me given the change of brightness of the dash lights) and I guess as a creature of habit I turn the bike off as I put it on the side stand. About a half-second after I turned the key to the off position I closed my eyes and muttered a few choice words to my self as I realized that could have been a really bad choice. The g/f and I dismount and I flip the key on as I walk to the front of the bike and I see what I had expected; no low-beam (high-beam, passing lamps, turn signals, tail lamp(s) and the brake lights) are all work fine. So, I think to my self, no biggie - I'll just run with the bights on (as I usually do anyways). So we saddle up, dash looks normal, so I push the ol reliable starter button and the dash dies, let go and it comes back. I pop the side-stand up, pull the clutch in and double check the kill switch to ensure that all those safety deals are in proper position and again push the starter button and no dice. Dash goes blank and does not come back this time. Check lights again, no lights but I had the radio. So I had thought that it was the ignition switch. Before removing the tank and wiring up a bypass I decide to check fuses just to make sure; box next to the driver's seat, fuse box in cowling, and the main fuse that is located just behind the fuse box next to the driver's seat are all good. "Well shucks" is exactly what I said. At this point the only person to have passed was the county sheriff who happened to turn around and ask if everything was alright. (I had chuckled to myself and thought 'yup, everything is fine, that's why I'm laying next to my bike on the asphalt in 100+ degree heat & the lovely Texas sunshine admiring how hot the pavement actually gets... Here's your sign'). I stood up and politely explained that the bike is not running. We chatted a bit while I started to pull the tank to go ahead and bypass the ignition so I could get back on the road. Just before I snipped the first ignition wire he had pulled a jumper box out of his car and asked if I wanted to try that before I did anything else... I thought, I can try that but I am pretty sure it will be a waste. So we hooked the jumper box up, I turned the key and who would have guessed that I'd have the dash lights back. Well, to make things even better everything lit up (except the low-beam bulb that was out -- I had high beams and passing lamps still) So, pushed the ol starter button and it started right up, first crank like it always does! My jaw literally dropped as I stood there staring at it not believing what had just happened. So, we pulled off the jump box right away and the bike didn't skip a beat; sitting there purring away. So now, I decided I didn't want it running while I put the tank back on and whatnot so I shut it off, put it all back together went to start it up with the jump box again, hooked it up, turned the key, hit the starter button and I got nothing. Unfortunately the jump box was dead and we resorted to jumper cables; jumped the bike, the G/F and I saddled up, I thanked the deputy and we were both on our way. Now, my next challenge was getting fuel since I had 100 miles on the tank already and was 150 miles away from home... Fortunately, as I was closing the garage door (before I left) I checked the pockets and I did not have the spare key that I usually carry... I decided at the last minute that I ought to run back in and grab it since I have it. This saved my butt since I was able to fill up without killing the engine (I know this is dangerous but I was not happy with my alternative choices) and finding some way to start it (I have push started plenty of vehicles, but I am pretty sure that the RSV is one that I would have a hard time push starting since it is pretty flat around here and it is hard to paddle run your-self fast enough to get the thing started). Well, I ended up making it home safely; pulled it in the garage and shut it off. To summarize: While cruising along, dash lights got extra bright (for about 5 seconds) accompanied by loud noises on the radio and through the headsets (which I presumed occurred when the low-beam blew out) followed by no action from the battery (no power what-so-ever). Stopped the bike [stupidly] shut it off and it would not start without jumping the bike. Once bike was running, High-beam burned out within a few minutes of running with it on (Had similar dash light behavior, ie. get real bright for about 5 seconds then dim down to their normal level again; Passing lamps still functioning properly) At this point I did not have the radio, CB or cruise on at risk of doing damage to other electrical components. When I got home I looked at the battery, checked the terminal voltage with a multi-meter and read off 12.88V (no load) and with the key in the on position, no passing lamps on I got a reading that started at 1.34V and steadily dropped 0.03 V per second (in 0.01V increments). OBVIOUSLY there is something wrong with the battery. I had noticed right when I had gotten the bike that on the top of the battery there were the caps that 'seal' one of the filler holes for the H2SO4, one cap was broken and the top was covered with electrical tape. I had pulled the battery out (it was dated 05 I believe... yea yea yea, I know I should have replaced it but it seemed to be functioning fine) and inspected it and I had no reason to believe that it was in bad shape. There did not seem to be any malfunctions while riding, the bike NEVER cranked slow or struggled at idle (although I did notice that if I sat at an intersection for a while with a turn signal on the dash lights would dim slightly when the turn signal was on, and then return to their 'normal' brightness when the turn signal was off) I didn't think much of this as everything seemed to be functioning fine. So I had some extra caps laying around from other batteries so I put a cap on it, sealed it and then re-installed the battery (This was 8 weeks and 2,000 miles ago) I noticed today that the cap that I had replaced was no longer there so the hole was exposed again. The only modifications that have been made on the bike are: 1) Passing lamps that I believe are tapped into the headlight circuit (unfortunately) via a relay to come on ONLY when the high-beams are on AND the push-button switch is depressed 2) Stebel air horn powered directly from the battery (via a relay and through the fuse of course) with the relay triggered by the horn button -- wired as many others have wired these on their bikes 3) LED Tail light (one of those Radientz 32 LED Plug into the 1157 bulb socket deals) 4) 15 Bulb LED light bar on the rear (tapped into the tail light circuit via the wires behind the license plate) setup to have 3 LEDs on as running lights and all light up when brake lights are activated. *** The Questions **** So, what I have come here to look for, after sharing this novel with everyone are a few things: 1) When your bike is at idle and you have a turn signal on do your lights (either the dash lights or indicator lights (ie. neutral, or whatever) flash a little or at all? 2) Obviously I am replacing the battery and the light bulbs that I have managed to blow out BUT my question is this: Is it possible that when the battery is under load there is an internal short that does not allow the battery to draw its normal charge current (whether it is by corrosion of the electrodes, bad cell or what have you) which would have caused some of the current that should have been delivered to the battery (from the generator/alternator/stator -- whatever the proper term for those puppies are) and ended up being delivered through the electrical system casing the of the headlamps (which would be similar to starting a vehicle then unplugging the battery from the vehicle while it is still running) and also possibly the odd behavior with the radio (I have not tried the radio while plugged into a different power source yet) I know a thing or two about physics and classic cars and bikes but what I do not know much about is the way these newer bikes are wired. I know for sure on an older car with relatively simple electrical systems, this IS the case. 3) (The important one) What, if anything, could have caused this behavior with the battery IF the battery was NOT the SOURCE of the problem to begin with. Or, stated differently, is there anything that would have caused the battery to do this to me (basically die) that I should be checking before I put a new battery in and damage the new battery? (I assume the generator works fine since when I got the silly thing started it drove me home) I am so frustrated and flustered right now that I just cannot really think straight so any thoughts on this would be GREATLY appreciated. This just ruined my day... although there are PLENTY of things that went good today too. The sheriff’s deputy stopping, me being on a test run instead of being further away from home or anywhere in the middle of a trip or on a hard deadline to return, I had dry weather while monkeying with the bike on the side of the road (It started thunder storming a few hours after I got home), my g/f was actually cool with everything while I was working on it and asked that I take her out for another ride when I get it fixed since she got gyped on this one, and I could go on but I won't because I've written enough to get me booted from the site for hogging bandwidth. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and thank you in advance for any thoughts that you have on this issue. Oh to top it all off I hit a bird on the way home... the stupid thing flew right into the shield, scratched the crap out of the side of it, spatter and feathers all over the place (I had spent a few hours this morning washing, waxing and polishing the bike... It looked fantastic), and in all of that I was lucky enough to have it miss both me and the g/f... After that, she hit me and asked me wtf I did that... sheesh. END for real. - Rick M. :bawling:but :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown: that I made it home in 1 piece AND have some folks, much smarter than me that will hopefully contribute to my de-confusion of these occurrences -
Was out for a nice midnight ride last night. The weather was PERFECT. I rode about 200 miles around the old country roads. I noticed that in the dark, with the hight beams on, the dash lights are darn near blinding. I have got to do something to mute those lights. Any suggestions?
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I have been working on getting my '89 rebuilt and on the hiway. The problem I have is the tach and lights on the dash have quit working. Could it be one of the relays under the dash or do I have a bigger problem? Engine seems to run fine but the tach, volt meter and lights. Any help would be appreciated. Chuckles
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I keep seeing the Kuryakyn Master Cylinder Switch panels. This would solve all my switch problem at one stroke. I have two switches installed in my right hand dash cover as of now but they are a bit awkward in that position. I want to mount my digital volt meter in the dash where the switches are now and find a way to mount a switch panel on the left side handbar. I would like to have 3 switches or even a 4th one. They don't seem to have anything that's bolt on for a 1st Gen, Doh!, no surprise there but I was hoping that someone here has made a mod for something like this. Any suggestions? Mike
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