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Man! I put that title on the thread and about a million posts about Wild Hair 39 showed up! OK, you're not in this Lowell, unless you want to come cut my hair! I told Mini that I'm willing to let someone here cut my ponytail off. But the catch is that it's gonna cost ya. The proceeds are going to help bring Aussie Annie and Quickstep over. If you are interested, this will probably happen at Asheville on Sat. night or Sun. morning or we can set up a Ga M&E or as I told Mini, I will ride up too 200 miles one way to your M&E. Just send your donation to r4774@yahoo.com and in the message box put "Hair Cut". Mini will keep up with the donations and if someone "out donates" you, you can add to your donation. I'm not sure if this will bring any money, but it's worth a try! I've been working on this tail since '04. Six years to grow it and a second to chop it off!!!
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I am thinikng about making a speaker set up in the lids of the saddle bags so I am looking for some broken lids that anyone has and wants to get ride of. I dont want to cut up a good set since I am not sure how I am going to do this just yet. Trial and error I guess.
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Here is our new toy. It's an '01 Aspen Classic. I think I am cut off for a while... http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/Image2-1.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/Image8.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/Image4.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/Image3-1.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/Image9.jpg
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10925.1 i"ll try to make this short as i can.i bought an 06 black cherry venture with 59760 miles on it and thought i checked it fairly well,no compression check,pull plugs etc but did test drive and seem to run well other than front brakes wernt to good and the clutch was not right and it would idle fast sometimes and seemed to be a little to cold nature.(hell i guess i didnt check it out to well after all!). after talking to the service department i did get them to replace the clutch,fix the front brakes and clean out the fuel tank,clean out the carbs and replace the fuel filterand syn the carbs,twice.heres what it done.had cruise set at 75 pulling a slight incline while low on fuel and it cut out on me.chalked it up to possably to low on fuel. filled it up ran good for two days and once againg pulling a slight incline with no cruise this time runnimg about 73 rolled off the throtle till about 62 and gave it some more throttle and it just about chocked out but i did get it to take fuel after i slowed down to 41 and like to got ran over. the dealer lokked at it againg did there deal rand good for three days and cut out on me again leaving drive way. i think its the choke some how closeing and smothering it,can someone help? thanks. i know other people have had the same problem but seems like i did some of the thing people suggested with no possative results.
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The other day I rode through my first full blown rain storm with my new Venture and I got a rude awakening to how dangerous the tall RSV windshield is in bad weather. Because it sits so vertical and because you can't look over it, the rain blocked my vision much worse then previous bikes I owned with windshields. Another thing I noticed about this windshield too, was that I still got hit in the face by rain that came in from the sides. I wear glasses, so this just compounded my vision problems. I'm going on a 4000km East Coast trip in a week so I decided to cut the stock windshield down. I've always set my windshields up to where I am just looking through or slightly above the top lip and, in bad weather, I can sit up a little straighter and look over the shield for safety's sake. One thing I like about that set up, as well, is that the slip stream from the wind coming off the top of the windshield takes any rain and deflects it away from my face. On my last bike (with a National Cycle HD Touring windshield) I could ride through torrential downpours and 99% of the water went over or around my head. I'm an airplane mechanic and I was going to do this myself, but a buddy at work offered and he's a wicked perfectionist (and a great machinist!) so I let him do it. - I first sat on the bike and then used a piece of paper and some tape to try different measurements for looking ahead and marked where the cut should be. - Then I used masking tape and taped off the area I was cutting on both sides of the plastic - I found the exact centerline of the screen and marked it then I freehand traced the profile on one side only in black marker. For me, I decided to cut the windshield at exactly 4" from the top, in the center. I then traced out a flatter profile then the stock one (one side only!) - I then copied the profile I drew onto a blank piece of paper and reversed it and transferred it over to the opposite side of the screen. this way, the two halves will be symmetrical... which is more important then the actual shape, IMO. - I used painters masking paper and covered the front and back areas of the bike - My buddy then cut the profile out using an air saw with a fine tooth hacksaw blade. The air saws are great because you can vary the speed and you won't melt the plastic. Another tip here is to start the cuts from BOTH sides and work towards the middle. DO NOT cut from one end only and go right across, because there's a chance when you get near the end that the vibration will cause the last little bit to crack off before you cut through it. Meet the two cuts near the centerline of the screen. Also, do this rough cut just above the profile line you marked. - The next step is to rough file the edge down to the mark - Once that's done, take a small wooden block with some fine grit sandpaper and then polish the end cut until its level and smooth. Then run the block along the edges and put a slight bevel on the plastic. I didn't do as extreme as the stock bevel though. I also left some rather sharp edges on both ends of the new cut to make the windshield look a little more "slammed"... sorta like some Harley batwing screens. I think my RSV looks much better "balanced" now when seen from the front. The results were great! A test drive after proved that 4" off was perfect for me (I'm only 5'8"). I could look over the windshield easily and there was no buffeting at all. I had to lift my head up almost 6" to start to feel the buffet. If I have passengers, they may get a bit of buffeting but I ride solo mostly, so that's not really an issue for me. Total cost = $0 Bike shop wanted $75 to do this for me and I would have had to remove the windshield and bring it to them. Here's some pics... http://www.ridecanada.org/photos/before_1.jpg http://www.ridecanada.org/photos/work_1.jpg http://www.ridecanada.org/photos/after_1.jpg http://www.ridecanada.org/photos/after_2.jpg
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Came home the other day and cut off bike. Wen to try and tart back up and nothing. All lights, radio and everything went out. Pushed it in. Cut switch back on and finally heard a constant ticking from the Starter relay beside the fuel filter. Replaced it with used one and now the starter solenoid is clicking constantly when I hit the start switch-no starter. Crossed the pos/neg on the solenoid and it sounds like bendix is coming out but no engagement. Has the starter gone out or is it something else? -
Someone asked me how I converted my Tape Deck to a MP3 Player. The best info I have is here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41100 I used Scotty's and Frankd's schematics to come up with one that works between the two. Here is a simplified color diagram I created. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/SimpliedInstructionsforMP3Input.jpg Here is where I located my 3PDT switch. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0955.jpg Here is the "tray" I made out of (aprox.) 1/4" thick clear acrylic plastic. I cut it out using a dremel and razor blades and then glued them using plastic glue. I got some simple hinges and drilled holes and screwed in screws (put plastic glue on threads). http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0956.jpg I then cut off the rest of the screw that protruded through the plastic (cut slowly because it heats up fast!). After that, I placed a drop of glue over the rest of screw in hopes of it staying in place. After it's all dry and the holes are cut, I painted it with flat black paint on the inside and the blue paint to match the outside. Oh, almost forgot the magnetic latch assembly I installed as well... It was a pain to cut the plastic out and get it to fit...lots of glue to fill the voids. I also had to cut into the plastic face to make it fit. Notice the screws I used to hold it in place so that it doesn't shift. That may be required to keep it in place. Once again, cut off the excess protruding screw and cover it with either RTV or glue to prevent any scratching of items placed in there and backing out of screw. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_1056.jpg I found a "marine" grade 12V outlet. In installed it and then made one wire connect to a ground on the frame. The other wire connects to the right side of my accessory fuse spade and then the left side of the accessory fuse connects to the positive battery terminal. NOTE: I'm using the fuse box made by Skydoc_17 that mounts in place of the factory fuse box. *Something not mentioned in my schematic is that the common (ground) wire inside the 3.5mm headset wire is usually unshielded wire wrapped around each (Left and Right stereo) wire. You'll have to unravel the bare wire and twist the two together to make a common ground that connects to the black wire from the bike's cassette harness. EDIT: Here is where I found the "Marine Grade" 12v Outlet at Amazon.com [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket/dp/B0002KRC5Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1274422515&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: Marine Grade Cigarette Lighter Socket 12 VDC: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31BRN43V71L.@@AMEPARAM@@31BRN43V71L[/ame] -
I have a 83 VR with an 86 motor (previous owner changed motor, instead of fixing 2nd gear) and have bought a heavy duty stator and regulator/rectifier from Buckeye Perf. and installed the stator OK and works good, but then noticed that the instructions for the R/R said to cut off the brown wire in the wiring harness and discard it. The R/R is a knockoff and not a Yama part. I am wondering what the brown wire is used for and if I can cut it off without any bad effects. Can I safely cut and discard this brown wire? Electrical wiring diagrams are just gibberish to me, so they are no help. I know enough to get in trouble and electrocute myself. The Service Manager at the local bike shop said it was OK to cut it off, but he didn't sound like he knew what he was talking about. He didn't even ask what year or model bike I had. I just told him I had an older VR. The bike has been sitting in the back of my garage, since last fall, because of overheating problems, and not charging. Put the new stator in, in the fall and then lost interest because of the overheating problem. I have a GW, so there was no hurry to fix it. If I can get the R/R unit in and working, I might work on the overheating problem (long story) and if I can't, then I will part out the bike over the summer. I have owned this bike for three years, but have only ridden it sporadically because of the overheating problem and now the electrical problem. Thanks for any help. Jim -
Yesterday I went for a 200 foot ride. I still have the cast on my leg. Would you believe my wife ask me to move the bike out of the shop so she could get the lawnmower out so she could cut grass!!! That took a lot of nerve to ask that off me. So I sat there ,drank my tea, and watched her cut the grass. Didn't cut all of it, so I asked her to get me another glass of tea. I would what went wrong? I sure have a great wife!!!! tew47:clap2:
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Looks like MaMamo may be looking for another job. Her employer is selling the business. She has been through this work your way up to be knocked back down scenario about 7 times now. Maybe 8 is her lucky number. Anyway I'm ready to do what has to be done should she be out of work for a while. I know one thing there will be no more take a cut in pay and start over as a cashier. She has been Asst Manager for the last 12 years on various jobs. It's only :mo money:
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I got my hair cut awhile ago, it was so long, that i could use it as a beard. Front and back, maybe half a foot to 10 inches in places I got it cut to 3/8th of an inch, free cut too:225:
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I was wondering if somebody had one and do you like it? Also, does the vent cut down passenger buffeting and does rain come through when it's closed? -
Whoever installed the passing lights on my '99 RSV tied them in to the yellow (High beam) wire right at the headlight. I have cured that by installing a relay which is turned on and off by the R/Y wire for the headlight. What I'm also wanting to do is add a second relay for the headlight. This way none of the lighting load is going through the ignition switch. This would also enable me to put an "emergency lighting" switch in the circuit which would allow the headlight to work, completely independent from the bike's circuits. My question here is what color wire runs to the dimmer switch? In the circuit pictured, there should be a red wire with a yellow tracer. I found the R/Y wire which powers the headlight, but it goes into a plug only to come out the other side as a solid blue wire. I want to find and cut into the wire where the arrow points. once I cut it I would attach the top cut to the output (terminal 87) of the relay and the wire on the bottom of the cut would then hook to the terminal 85 or 86 on the relay. So, where in the real world harness do I make this cut?
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I cut 5 inches off of my stock windshield. It looks really good and I can see over it at night (big improvement). My problem is now there is quite a bit of wind turbulence (noise) on the top of my helmet. I am 6'2" with a 35 inch inseam. I have a double-bubble on my ZX11D7 and it really reduced wind noise. Does anyone make a double-bubble style windshield for the Gen I VR?
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i think i have figured out the source of the chirp in the primary gears on yamahas. this gets tecnical. my rstd had the chirp about as bad as it gets. both my v-star 1100 and my 1300 in particular, have a terrible amount of primary gear noise. i always attributed it to the straight cut gears which are the noisyest gear pattern there is. my wing has straight cut primary gears and they are totally quiet. my 1600 nomad has straight cut gears and has a barely audible hum. you have to consentrate to hear it. i always figured gearlash either to loose or to tight was the main cause. this will make a difference in the noise level, but i think the real cause is the curvature on the face of the gear teeth. yamaha has picked a pitch that just happens to make noise. the only real fix in my opinion is to go to their engineers and have them try different pitches on the surface of the gear teeth untill they hit the right combo. or go to honda and kawa. to see what pitch they use. just my opinion. i think the clutch basket change is just a bandaid. it tightens the clearance up to a sweet spot that may or may not last depending on tooth wear. think about this the tranny gears don't sound off, and they are all straight cut.
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Had a lump cut off the side of my chest today. It started as a tiny speck about July and grew about 1" long and 1/4" wide. No pain but it itched something fierce. My regular doctor couldnt figure it out so she sent me to a general surgeon who cut it off. A biopsy will be done and ill know more in 10 days. It wasnt real deep so im hoping it wasnt serious. Dr said he never saw one like it either. Joys of getting old......
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This is my first RSV(blue 07). It is the 1st bike I've had to make me sweat in the saddle.Is there a way to cut down on the heat.
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Ok so, I bought a new jigsaw and blades just for trimming/lowering my wind screen(any excuse for a new toy). Marked off a nice arc, oddly enough using the chrome plastic screen trim as a template worked well. Started jig-sawing away and it was going great, clean line, cutting quite nicely to mid-point. Then had to remove the blade from the screen to switch to the left side. Shoulda let the blade stop first I guess, made a little gouge but, no biggie. Starting from the left, it cut through quite nicely again till I reached the arc I had already cut from the right side. To my surprise, the cut piece didn't fall away, as it should have.... Apparently, that lil blade was quite hot and as I cut the left side in towards middle, it was melting the plastic and the sucker very effectively reglued itself to where I just cut it from, if that makes sense. So firm that, I couldn't break it free, for fear of breaking too much. Tried again through where I just cut and it melted/reglued still! Had to hold the plastic screen away as I cut, to finally get the pieces to release. Much sanding was needed to get it all smooth, pics later. It looks good. Soooooo, did I have the saw on too high a speed or should I simply take breaks as I go along? The first cut on the right side worked great, the 2nd cut from the left is where things got....hot.
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Hey there, my twin brother from a different mother - I was in your town today and I believe you and your merry bunch of Venture-riding gang went right by us. It was around noon and we (10 bikes) were filling up at the KwikFill in Arcade. I yelled out your name, but obviously those loud pipes on the new 2nd gen drowned out my voice . We were just on our way back from a nice 4 days of riding in Pennsylvania and had cut across along 417, 19 and 243 into your lovely town. It just started to sprinkle, so we scooted on up to Holland and had a picnic lunch at the Community Centre/Legion field there. Cheers, Lou
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I decided a few months ago that I wanted to get the tall OEM windscreen out of my way temporarily and allow the wind to cool me a bit during the summer months. After riding for a few weeks with no windscreen at all, I decided I wanted at least something mounted on the fairing to fill the slot. A secondary thought was to maybe mount a shorty windscreen for appearances sake. Not really having any desire to purchase a brand new full-size windscreen (to cut down), I placed a "part wanted" ad here on the site for one that I could cut down to the size I wanted. A Venture brother in California saw my request and shipped me an old one for the cost of shipping. I received his old one and measured off an 8" rise from bottom to top on the older screen. I overlapped my OEM screen over the replacement and used the upper edge of mine to grease-pencil the upper curve to provide me a cut-line. I cut the excess screen off using a high-speed abrasive cutting disc and a die-grinder, leaving about 1/8" extra outside my grease-pencil line. I then polished that down exactly with another abrasive sanding disc, in the same die-grinder. I then rounded all edges with an air-sander and mounted the freshly re-sized windscreen to my fairing. It looks great and does exactly what I want. Allows enough air to keep me aerated, yet fills the slot and keeps the appearance sharp. Just finished and mounted it yesterday, so I haven't had it out for a major highway ride yet. So not sure if it's low enough to avoid throwing a buffet into the middle of my face, but it can be shortened again if necessary. I'd rather have it too short than too tall. I'll post pics ASAP
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I pulled my rear tire off today my new one came in and I need to take it out and get the new one mounted. When I got it off I noticed some cuts / tares in the tread area. My first thought was that I ran over something and cut the tire but there are several of them and they are way to big to be just road damage. I did see some spots that the tread was completely gone but their different. I have never seen a tire tare like that before without some explanation. I was wandering, as some of you may know I crashed it on the way home from the western NY M&E when that happened I was pushed sideways before I laid it over but I wouldn’t think that there is enough friction to tare the tire like this. The cuts are through to the cords but it holds air. The tire is a Dunlap E2 491 it was on the bike when I got it a year ago last June so I have no idea how many miles are on it. I am just looking for some thought and opinions on what caused the damage. I am going to try and post some pictures I hope they come through ok Thanks
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Well I finally am building my trailer here are a few pics. I cut down a HF trailer to 30 inches wide and CNC'D the diamond plate at work. I still have to mount my diamond plate bumper along witl my LED lights. I put a slot in for a divider which will be for the dog when we take him. I am making 2 different tops. A solid one for regular use and one with a cutout with a little high rise box with widows with screens for air intake and I also have to put one more exhaust in the back that will have 3 small computer fans (which will draw as little power as LEDs) to pull the air through. I have to finish the cooler rack which I will line with orange acrylic and then polish the aluminum then the flames will be orange from the outside. I am going to make it so I can take it off the trailer and mount it to my hitch platform when not using the trailer. I am going to get someone to tig weld all my seams to make it water tight and I should be good to go after I put the fenders (with diamondplate mudflaps with small flames cut out in them. It should be sharp when its done if I can find some hubcaps that will fit the 8 inch wheels as the ones I see say they are for golf carts and they are different rims. Anyway let me know what you think. When its all done I will only have about $350 into it as I got all my aluminum at cost and programmed the CNC myself and cut it on my own time. (its nice having a key to the shop) And being that it is aluminum it is very light. Paul
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OK, so like many others, I bought one of them Bad boy air horns at Harbor Freight. The stock horns I had were just about as useful as a tender whisper in an offender's ear, so I had to do something. I bought the horn, happened on to some scrap 3/8" aluminum to cut a bar from, and went to work. The original horn bracket was way too short to mount the air horn, so I cut a new bracket from the aluminum scrap I had. I cut the bracket, drilled the holes and mounted the horn. http://i38.tinypic.com/2pt544i.jpg http://i38.tinypic.com/2885uzo.jpg I ran it like this for a couple of weeks and everything worked fine, but I really didn't like where I had it mounted. It just stuck out there like a sore thumb. So I set to looking for an alternate location, preferably down lower at the front of the front engine guard. We just happened to have a couple of small 90 degree brackets laying around at work, so I spirited them home and got to work once again. Here's what I came up with. http://i33.tinypic.com/2cyo844.jpg http://i38.tinypic.com/16gjtyd.jpg http://i35.tinypic.com/2edyyhg.jpg I like this set-up a lot better. And since I have an extra bracket, I can now mount a second horn on the other side! The overall appearance is a lot cleaner and there is less exposed wiring and I now have two spots where the original horns were that I can use for mounting passing lights. my only concern at this point is concerning heat from the exhaust pipe possibly melting the plastic. I've only had the horn in this location one day so far and I check it every time I stop to see if it's getting hot. So far it's staying quite cool. -
I need to order the tshirts for the rally on July 13th in order to make sure i have them a little ahead of time for the rally. Please try to get registred by this time.....if you absolutley cannot register by that time but know for sure you want tshirts please let me know what u want. And remember if you do place an order for them, you will be held accountable to pay for them whether u change your mind or can't attend or what ever. I will be ordering a few extras in basic colors, black, white and grey and will have them available at the rally for those who didnt get one ordered and decide they want one - on a first come first served basis. so....cut off time is nearing........9 am central time July 13 !!!
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Before I reck my helmet, I thought I might be able to get some tips from anyone who may have had to cut into their helmet to fit their speakers in the ear area. My new J&M speakers fit great in my wife's helmet, but my modular helmet does not have an ear pocket area so I will have to cut into the material and foam so they can be inset so the helmet will still fit my head. Any tips or tricks so I can do it right the first time? Thanks
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