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Showing results for tags 'cut'.
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does anyone have or know how/where to use led pods under the fuel tnk to light up the motor fins there dosent seem to be enough room there but i really want to highlight the cut fins and add that little extra bling:Venture:
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Well, I got my ignition emergency bypass switch wired in as well as the ignition relay and my relay for the driving lights (Special thanks to Dingy here!). Now, I want to install a relay for the headlight and I've run into a bit of confusion. I looked at a thread by wes0778 who did this work and he mentioned tapping into a Blue wire with a Black tracer to install the headlight relay. When I checked the simplified wiring diagram for the 2nd gen, it shows a Brown wire with a Blue tracer. I have the fairing split and have found a Blue/Black wire going into a plug from which exits a Red/Yellow wire. Now wes0778 cut the Blue/Black wire and put the "downstream" end to the 87 terminal (I assume that the downstream end is the one that goes into the plug and comes out as a Red/Yellow wire going to the dimmer switch- this is what the schematics indicate.) He then put the other end to the 86 terminal as his "switching" wire (He had a wire coming from the battery to the 30 relay already as do I). So...do I cut the Blue/Black wire or should I keep looking for a Brown/Blue wire? Anyone know? I'd hate to cut the wrong wire and wind up frying something...especially after doing all this work. Thanks Andy
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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How much hacking is required to bring the floor boards to just behind the lower faring? \i've got 2 inches to bring back to fit. Just cut it down and weather strip the back end? Any ideas would be great
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This is the cheapest and easiest ipod mount that I have found. It cost me about $9 for the case and I had the hose clamp in my tool box. Here is how to do it. 1. Use a razor blade to cut out the soft lining in the back of the ipod case directly behind the circle cut out of the face of the case. 2. Open the case and lay it flat on it's face. 3. Mark and cut two horizontal slots on the back of the case about 1/2" apart and about 1" long. Try to center the slots where you removed the soft lining. (I used a dremmel with a cutting wheel to cut the slots. They do not need to be wide, just completely through the metal) 4. Use a grinding attachment to smooth out the rough edges on the slots. (This step is important! It will prevent scratches on your handlebars and ipod.) 5. From the INSIDE of the case, push on the piece of metal between the two slots that you just cut. You don't have to push hard, just enough so that you can feed the hose clamp through them. 6. Feed the hose clamp end through one slot from the back and out the other slot and then feed it around the handlebars. 7. Adjust to final mounting position and clamp down tight. I have attached some pics below. I hope they help. Here is the link for the case although I found mine at Walmart so I did not have to pay the s&h. Check there before you order online. I have the 2nd gen ipod nano. 1st gen ipod Nano: http://www.accstation.com/dappnanolc18.html 2nd gen ipod Nano: http://www.accstation.com/dappnanolc52.html 30g-80g ipod: http://www.accstation.com/dappipodca23.html
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lost one of mine of two and can't buy as a part; IT's a J&M full-face headset, part # 218127. If I can't find one will use some foam cut to fit the hole! LOL. Thanks all! Jack Z
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Sniped my first Ebay Auction tonight. After losing out by several dollars the last 2 times I figured out the system and with just seconds to go I pulled the trigger and gave it a nice head shot. Its an aluminum wall piece with patterns cut into it with a grinder. This guy, Jon Allen, makes some real nice stuff. Not bad for 61 bucks. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Modern-Abstract-Metal-Wall-Art-Contemporary-Sculpture-/00/$%28KGrHqN,%21jkE3LlE-htKBOJh6MZg2%21%7E%7E0_1.JPG
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Add me to the list of those looking to find that Yami engineer that desperately needs my size 13 planted where the sun don't shine. So I read up all of the info I could find about changing the diodes in the TCI. I acquired a bunch of diodes for the job. Got all of the necessary tools ready. And dive in head first. There were some threads that made it sound like it would be not to bad to get the TCI out. I started with the suggestion that it can be done from the bottom without having to remove the air box, so that is where I went first. It should have been an ommen but the very first screw that I touched to remove the lower air scoop the hex hole stripped out, kind of my own fault, the last time I had that piece off to do an oil change I noted that the holes were very rusted and not much hex was left. Not a big deal, grab the Dremel with a cut off wheel and grind a slot for a flat blade screw driver. I took off the rest of the recommended parts to gain access to the TCI and sure enough, there it was starring at me. I thought Cool this ain't so bad. YEA RIGHT! I grab my Phillips bit and a ratchet to get the screws out, only to find out that someone must have been after the TCI once before, the screws were completely rounded out. By using the trick of putting some grinding compound on the tip of the bit to get extra traction I was able to get out the screw on the right side of the bike. The left screw just was not going to come out no matter what tricks I tried, none of which is helped by the fact that you can not even see the screw head. Enter plan 2; So since I can not get to that screw from the bottom I go ahead and pull out the air box. Cool now I can see more of the TCI but still can not get to that last screw. Enter plan 3; Grab a hack saw blade and go ahead and cut off the tab from the side of the TCI, (ain't NO way I am mounting it back up in that god awful place anyhow) Now that the TCI is out I'm off to the house and back into the A/C to do the diode swap. I took out the screws to reveal the bottom of the PCB. then take out the screws to release the PCB from the other half of the case and once again grab my trusty Dremel and make the cut to get the case open. Low and behold there are the diodes. every thing in the TCI looks like bran new, I was expecting to see the big globs of corrosion around the diodes like others have posted, but no these are clean and shiny looking like bran new. This got me to thinking, I wonder if the PO had the TCI replaced at some point before I got the bike and that is why the screws were stripped out. So I pondered this for a few minutes, should I just put it back together or doe the diode swap while I am in there???????? I finally decided to do the swap and was able to do the whole job without lifting any pads. I cleaned the board of all flux and other residue and reapplied a conformal coating to protect the circuits from moisture. I did notice that once I got the cover to the TCI off that there was a small puddle of water inside of the TCI!!!! I had washed the bike two days earlier. So I put a bead of sealant all around the perimeter of the case and sealed up the new seam that I created and sealed up the 2 small holes that Yami put there for no purpose other than to allow water in. Now time to put it all back together. First thing was to plug in the TCI and make sure that the bike still runs, WooHoo, it started right up and all 4 pipes got hot. So per the ideas posted here I cut a hole thru the inside of the faring and pulled the wire harness for the TCI thru the hole. It is plenty long to reach. then I got out some splices and heat shrink to repair the white with green stripe wire that I managed to cut thru while making the hole in the faring. oopie! I used some Velcro strips to attach the TCI to the inside of the faring. While I was in there I cleaned out all of the mouse droppings and nut and seed shells that the mice had left there for me. WTF the dang mouse was still in there. Well at least it is dead, that explains the "aromas" that I had been noticing when sitting a red lights. Got that mess all cleaned up, the rest of the reassembly went quite quickly and uneventfully. Once more start it up to make sure everything still works and Yippee, it does. So at least I don't have to worry about this issue for another 24 years. Now if it will just cool off enough so that I can take it for a ride. OK Rant over...... Back to you regularly scheduled programing. -
I am trying to figure out if this is fairly normal or if there might be a problem. The bike runs fine, but I noticed a small oil drip under the motor (towards the back). There are a series of rubber tubes coming down (I assume they are vent tubes), some of them are smaller and cut straight across, but the 2 of them are larger and diagonal cut (if that matters). Here are the pics from under the bike. Thanks for any help or comments. Wally
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Hey Folks, Just wanted to post up and see if anyone has a decent used windshield for a 1st gen. Perhaps one that was taken off when it was upgraded to a clearview or such. It has to be in good shape, I dont want something all scratched up or cut down, I'm pretty picky on looking through a shield f anyone has a good one laying around that they want to get rid of I'd like to chat with you...Thanks.
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Just installed a set of barron bag slash cut today. I love them exactly the sound I was looking for. Thanks for the deal jryan.
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Decided it was time to make it so we could charge cell phones in the trunk. Starting thinking of the best way to make that work and came across this. http://goo.gl/McHpJ seemed like the perfect arrangement and cheap so if I broke one it wasn't the end of the world. cut the entire swivel plug off of it and ran a harness back into the trunk. Ran it right off the battery with a fuse and relay switching it on and off with the bike. A little velcro to hold it in place and we are golden!
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Water pump drain bolt. If you have a Method other than loosening pipes pardon for the redundancy. I cut a 17mm socket down to an inch and cut the head off of a an old 2 stroke plug wrench, good steel, 1/8" thick, 6" long, welded the flat metal to the top of the socket and it works like a charm. bf -
Do we have any locksmiths here? It seems as though I remember a while back that we had a member or two who could cut us some keys. I ran all over the place looking for someone who could make a couple duplicate keys for my Maxim and the kids scooter locally. Not even any of the steelerships could cut a cycle key. I have the keys in hand and I'm assuming they can be made if the locksmith has the number stamped on them? Even if I can just get the blanks would be nice. Then I could take them to the local hardware store to have them cut. Thanks, Bill
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Anybody have any ideas on how to cut down the dust in a pole barn? I and my wife have been spending every weekend cleaning out her Dad's pole barn since the snow cleared enough to get into it. It was used to store hay up until 20 years or so ago. I got all the old hay out and now the dirt has a layer of real fine dirt on top that is more like dust. This is where we are having our post wedding reception and we are trying to think of a good way to cut down the dust on the floor so it doesn't get kicked up so easily when all the people start showing up. I was thinking that a good wetting down would help the finer particles clump together a bit and not get kicked up so easily. I also thought maybe some sawdust might help. Especially where the dance floor is gonna be. Others have mentioned a load of gravel. But I'm thinking that fresh laid gravel is hard to walk on until it is good and settled. The party is in three weeks. Anybody have any other ideas? Thanks, Bill
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two years ago at freebirds maintance day there was a black rsv with diamond cut motor fins, anyone know who that would have been or where one might get that done at thank you steve
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royal pain in the you know what. BUT................one of the first thing I found that was a total inconvenience was loading the cd changer. Wife and I with owning the bar and doing our own music have tons of cd's and I simply like the sound of a good cd. So in all my wisdon I thought the changer would look really goos standing up in the truck. 4 hours later its done and definetly not bragging but I really think it looks good I had an old cd changer laying in the shop that was junk, but as you know some people, namely me, keep everything cause you never know when you will need it. So with that being said the cord was quite long, and conveniently the plug had the same pin design. So I cut enough of it off so I had plenty to add and started in. NOW with that being said I DO NOT recommend anyone trying this unless you like to put yourself through hell like I do. They sell 13 pin extension cables, but for some reason my cable was broke already so I did not have anything to loose. First worked on mounting. I used gutter guard for a mounting base for 2 reasons, its nice and sturdy, and I had it. First remove the piece in the truck where the little storage pouch is, its held with 8 push pins, then I removed the pouch from it leaving me with this. I used the material as a templete. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b6215823d00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ This little storage pouch is just stitched on, utility knife cured that. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b81cb433a00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Had to remove this "bump" from the OEM mounting bracket. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bc3ee433e00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Leaving me with my cut piece of gutter guard and bracket. A Little flat black touched things up. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0a6cf923aa00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Now then these changers have to have a setting changed to go from laying down (horizontal) to standing up (vertical) so it had to come out of the rubber insulator. I had absolutly no choice but cut the rubber, but no worries it look great now. Here is the adjustment that slides from H to V on both sides of changer http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bbd8ac25500000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Mounted the bracket to the gutter guard through the piece I removed that pouch from. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bcb6c43b800000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ When I got done I wound up with this. The INSIDE 4 holes I replaced the push pins with 3/16" aluminum pop rivets for added stability. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b8636035c00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bbb85c25900000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Connect a few wires. Some are shielded, some have to be isolated. This is why Id recommend buying one. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bcdc1431600000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ But I have the shielding wrap. a good soldering pencil, and a ton of patience and wound up with this http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0ade9e239400000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Now I have a nice empty side compartment that looks huge with the changer out of there. I put some RTV on the bolt that held the changer in place and threaded it back in just to tighten things up. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b05c4c24700000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Now I have the grommet with no wire in the side bag where the changer wire entered it, thats going to be where I install a power outlet since the hole is the perfect size, and the battery is really close..... -
I can only figure that it's fuel related, like maybe bad gas or excess moisture in the line. It happened 3 times on Friday in an hour, then OK for a few days and about 90 miles, and then again twice earlier today, and then OK since. After it cuts off, it fires right back up again with no problem. I put about 6 oz of B-12 Chemtool in it on Friday, thinking that would help, and thought it was until it cut out again today. I'll run it again from Wednesday through the weekend pretty heavily when the weather clears (rain tomorrow and Tuesday here in the ATL) and see what happens. Gotta feeling I've got a fuel filter replacement in my future. Maybe some new plugs too. Any other thoughts, or anyone having a similar experience that you have found the solution for, I'd love to hear about it. -
Well I decided to cut my OEM windshield down to 10" so that I could see over instead of having to look thru it. I followed the direction on the forum. I taped (yellow masking tape)both side to make sure I did not scratch it, as it WAS in perfect shape. Got out the jig saw, a metal cutting blade and some sand paper. The cut went perfect. Got her sand smooth and all looked good. At this point I'm feeling really proud of the job I did. Now it was time to remove the tape. Things went down hill from here. As I removed the tape part of the clear coating in the windshield peeled of with the tape. . So I now have a shield I can see over, but I can't stand looking at the damage I did.
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A while back there was someone who would diamond cut the engine side covers. Does anyone remember?
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my 2000 radio just began crackling when i pull the clutch to downshift. i did wash the bike before this happened; however, even before i washed it it would cut out occasionaly. any thoughts. thanks
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my new warranty replacement radio has started to cut out and come back on when I hit sharp bump (bridge expansion joints, pot holes, fallen over HDs) The audio will cut out and come back right away, and I noticed that the LCD display on the controller will also blip off and back on. I've checked all my harnesses again but the problem still seems to come and go depending on the bump I hit.. Is this common enough so to not worry about or might there be something 'jiggly' inside the radio itself that might be doing this?
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What is everyone doing, if anything for paint protection? I can see how the lower fairings and bags could get chipped up, and the tank will see some wear as well. Is the only option to buy sheets of 3m and custom cut it? I wasn't particular about the color of my new bike, but I forgot what a pain black paint is to keep clean and swirl free. -
Put my bike in the classifieds. It's either sell or let it be repo'd. That happens some times when you're out of work for a while, for me, that's been since May. The loan companies won't cut you any slack and I guess my partial payments didn't cut the mustard with them. Any way I got to do something quick. Thanks for looking.
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Yesterday while riding to my rally site, I noticed a pickup truck approaching fast in my mirror... He over took me quickly and before I knew it, the idiot threw a beer bottle out the window at me....It smashed about ten feet in front of me.. I swerved around it and my first reaction was to speed up to get his license no. THEN I REMEMBERED DOING JUST THAT ONCE BEFORE WHEN SOMEONE CUT ME OFF LAST YEAR THEN DECIDED TO SLAM ON THEIR BRAKES WHEN I GOT CLOSE..Fooled me once, but I learn quickly.....ps...guess what kind of stickers were plastered all over his truck.........
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