Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'connector'.
-
I know this is a dumb question but..... I bought a bike that runs great etc, but doesn't have a helmet connector. Looked under the plastic housing at the gas cap, nothing there. Where should I be looking for the cable? Thanks in advance.
-
Ignition Switch Failure A big thanks to Eck Nace for the excellent write-up Clicking on the pictures will show a larger version. For those of you who have not had ignition switch failure I recommend that you check this connector as soon as possible. This is the connector for the Red Hot wire and the Brown & Blue wire that comes from the ignition switch located under the fuel tank. Luckily, I just happen to “turn” the connector upside down while installing the ignition switch by pass mod in the case of ignition switch failure. View of ignition switch connector under fuel tank. This is the connector for the RED wire and the Brown/Blue wire View looking down at ignition switch wire connectors under fuel tank. Note: The two wires that you see with RED TAPE are the two wires used to by pass the ignition switch. One of them is the RED hot wire and the other is the Brown/Blue wire. Mental note: When splicing into the Red wire and Brown/ Blue wires, it is highly recommended that you make your split connection on the “aft” end of both connectors. This way if you ever DO have to remove the ignition switch, you can still unplug the two connectors with out having to cut the two by-pass wires again. Also, as shown in this picture, if the connection on the brown/blue wire did happen to burn up and where I lost connection, I would STILL be able to use the ignition by-pass switch I installed to start and run the bike. After I cut the burnt connector out, I installed this connector in its place. Please note: Only (2) wires go thru this new rubber sealed connector. The RED hot wire and the Brown / Blue wire which both go to the ignition switch. The black wire may LOOK like it goes through this new connector but it does not. Photo of removed burnt connector This photo is to show the location of the ignition by-pass switch installed in the case of ignition switch failure. I wanted the by-pass switch located in a convenient location, where I do not have to get off the bike if the stock ignition switch fails.
-
in a few days i plan to start installing the buckeye stator...in the install info in this site, and from buckeye, it says that the 3 wire connector cannot handle the heat...so you must solder the wires together..my question is, is it the connector material itself that can't handle the load. or the actual wiring ( or pins ) that can't i would like to remove the wires from the connector ( not cut ), discard the connector and replug the wires to each other....shrink wrap each individual wire and then shrink wrap all three as a bundle together........................or.....go down to radio shack, purchase their connector, redo the wires with their pins and use that connector.....their connector and pins are bigger than the pins used in yamaha connectors
-
I found a battery tender in Wally World the other day. $19, figure it can't be all bad. After reading the instructions (probably my first mistake) I am concerned about hooking this thing up. I have already added the connectors to my terminals and have the connector snaked out to a convenient but hidden spot on my 07 RSV, but am concerned. Do I need to remove the seat and monitor it or can I leave the seat on the bike and just plug in the connector? I was hoping that is all I have to do. Because in south Louisiana it snow one day (?) :rudolf:and 70+ degrees the next. Also, is the battery a 12 Volt or 6 Volt. Did I mention, I know NOTHING - lol Thanks for the advice in advance.
-
Help, i am trying to identify a connector located on left lower fairing, small two wire white connector, red & black wires. I believe it should eithe be a reserve lighting device or smooth condensor, i do have the two relays & cruise control servo, but where does the mystry connector go, pleses help. Goin crazy,
-
I have a new Nolan N103 N-Com helmet. I want to install a headset to communicate with my '02 RSV audio system (CB and aux audio) as well as my Zumo 550 GPS paired with my cell phone. I've found 2 options and want to know if anyone has experience with either to tell me which is best! I can install a Nolan bluetooth headset with a multimedia wire to my 5 pin audio connector... or, I can use a J&M headset and a J&M integrator which will integrate (hardwire) my GPS to the audio system along with a lower wire for my 5 pin connector. Any suggestions? Thanks, Art
-
Hi, On my 86 VR, the CLASS white plug connector appears to have a problem. When I turn the ignition with inserted key to ACC, the CLASS monitor will come on, light up w/the normal wording, and then display only the "PSI" lettering in the upper right corner. I may or may not get an error message; however, I am unable to adjust the air pressure. Then, if I open the CLASS door panel and push and/or press on the CLASS white plug connector, the monitor will continue to reactivate and finally stay connected long enough to allow me to adjust the front and rear air pressure. Do you think the problem is in the white plug itself or does the circuit board connectors that the white plug connects to need to be resoldered? I hate to talk bad about my 86 VR; however, as advanced as this bike was in 1986, you would think Yamaha would have come up with a better CLASS electronic connectivity design. It seems kinda cheap compared to the rest of the bike. Don't mean to upset anyone, just my opinion. Anyway, let me know your thoughts and past experiences concerning this question. Thank you, Allen Dallas, Texas
-
I recently had an E1 code pop up on my onboard air compressor computer screen. I went over the old threads and read them. I wanted to thank FREEBIRD for the detailed explanation. AND IT WORKED!!!! I wound up pulling the connector off and cleaning the terminals with contact spray. Still no success. Then I turned the connector in a clockwise manner, BAM. It worked perfectly. THANKS MUCH, THIS SITE IS AWESOME, Steve
-
Has anyone tired to repair one of these? Unfortunatly, there seems to be a break in one of the wires about on inch from the female connector, and it looks like I will have to make a repair. Are they hard to work on?
-
The connector is not in a very handy place. I want to move it but am limited by the amount of wire. The wire runs from the connector back up in under the trunk. Anyone know if there's extra cable packed behind the passenger backrest somewhere? If so, how do you get to it? Anyone else repositioned the connector to make it more accessible? -
Installing a Barons Tachometer on a Royal Star Venture Thanks to Tartan Terror for this excellent article. Installing a Barons tach on a RSV is actually not as difficult as I had anticipated. I did before I started call Barons tech line so that I could clear up any questions I had before I started. I was very glad I did. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image002.jpg I used the Barons Subsonic Mini tach but hook up on all of them are the same. For this model you get a tach, control unit and color change button. I decide to also get the Master Cylinder mount for a clean mount. You can mount yours anywhere you want. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image004.jpg One thing you will have to do is to extend the wiring from the tach if you mount it up on the handlebars. The cable down to the 4 pin connector is too short (Actually tells you this in the directions too) . I added about 8 inches by cutting the connector off and extending the wires. Im a stickler for clean connections for I soldered and covered the connections with heat shrink tubing. I also covered the wires with a wire loom type cover. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image006.jpg Remove the seat and tank as you will need to connect one of the ignition coils. Run the wires neatly to the ignition coil you will see on the right side of the bike just above the dog bone. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image008.jpg Remove the two bolts holding the ignition coil and pull the coil gently out to where you can get to it. In the Tach kit you will see two dividers to put two spade connectors on the coil. Next you will plug in the 4 pin connector. Connect the red wire from the control box to the red wire from the tach (the one in the 3 wire bundle not the 4 pin connector) by crimping them into a single spade connector. Slide this on the extra blade on the Red and Black wire on the coil. Next crimp a blade connector onto the green wire and slide this on the extra blade on the white wire side of the coil. Note: Check connecters before fitting it all together. Make sure the blades slide together. You may need to do a little filing for a good fit. Connect the black wire from the control box and black wire from tach (3 wire bundle). I soldered a short wire extention to these wires and then crimped on a loop connector. This is your ground. I connected this to the rear bolt on the coil holding it to the frame on reinstallation of the coil. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image010.jpg I installed the control box on top of the from with double sided tape. Choose the location for your control button and connect the wires from the button to the wire on the control box. I installed my button on the bars up near the right side controls. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image012.jpg Tuck all the wires out of the way and Reinstall tank and seat. Start bike and test. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image014.jpg Your done now go out and ride it like you stole it.
-
I like the nice connector holder stuck on the gas tank for the headset cord. I wonder if anyone knows where could get another such stick on holder (a smaller one, actually) that I can mount on the other side to plug in something else? -Rip
-
I need recommendation for a good contact cleaner for the large connector going to my 86 venture solenoids. I traced air suspension problems to the connector, tried a head cleaner that seemed to work but the problem came back. I don't think the cleaner did a good enough cleaning job. Does anyone know of a good way to clean those pesky contacts in the connector?
-
I just finished putting my 89 Venture back together after replacing plug wires, battery cables, fixing E4 error in class, refreshed desicant, and replaced back brakes and pistons seals; oh and back behind headlight to see how to replace bulb. I have had a lot of the bike apart, and every connector that I could reach I took apart, cleaned and put some dielectric grease in. However, upon starting up, I thought I noticed a little lag till the headlight/dash lights came on. After running the bike for about 10 min they suddenly went out. I have signal lights, clock etc but no headlight (low or high), no headlight indicator, and no dash lights. So my question is, what/where is the likely culprit connector? I must not have put one back together securely? How about behind the headlight? Oh well, project for tomorrow I guess.
-
I recently bought a Zumo 550 GPS system, and I am trying to connect it to my 07' RSTD. I was hoping someone here might have a suggestion as to where to connect the wires. The owners manual talks about the auxiliary connector under the seat near the battery, but i didn't know if that could be used in this situation. I'm not the greatest with electrical components. Any advice? Thanks -bjmstar82
-
I just ordered a venture dad hitch. Roy said to use a standard boat trailer 5 pin flat rubber connector wiring kit that you can get from most auto parts stores. A friend of mine has a trailer he pulls with his goldwing and said I can use it anytime to get the feel of pulling a trailer before I buy one. I thought this is great. My wife and I are going on a trip next week so this will be a good time to pull a trailer. But my friend says he has a 4 pin connector with a 5th wire added. I also saw on a thread this morning on the hopkins hoppy trailer kit which it says is a 4-way flat connector. What should I do to wire my venture for a trailer. I am confused, however it doesn't take much to confuse me. Thanks.
-
I just purchased a new '06 Venture, and will be picking it up in Michigan in two weeks, to drive home here near Toronto. Can someone tell me about the auxiliary connector and jack? one is under the rider seat and one at the front--exactly what kind of connector do I need to plug into these? Also, I will be riding home in probably cold weather. I have a heated suit, but it appears the connectors can't handle the amps that my system requires--6.4 for the coat, 3.6 for the pants, and 2.2 for the gloves. What do others of you do? Run directly from the battery? Thanks in advance, Ken
-
I'll be picking my new '07 RSV up next week and will have to splice into the electrical system in several places to connect lights and accessories. In the past I have used the scotch-loc type connectors but never felt that was the best method. Is there a better method? Also, where can I get a connector that will mate up with the 12V accessory plug under the seat? Thanks, DT
-
I ride a 2000 Royal Star and I just purchase a tow behind trailer. The trailer comes with the standard 4 wire connector. Does anyone know of a site where I can get the info on how to hook up the four wire connector on the bike or if anyone has wired their bike to hook up the four wire connector.
-
Dash computer is shot! Does anybody know how to completely bypass the dash computer. I have bypassed the headlight and the taillight but I can't figure out the brake lights. I jumped the pin connector for the head light and tail light but I am having trouble finding the right combination for a brake light jump across the connector. Any help would be appreciated and would get me back on the road. Thanks, Derek -
Does anyone know the pinout of the DIN connector on the factory CB for an 87. Thanks
-
With the CLASS (air suspension) system on my 88 VR, I have been having some problems. They are: - Sometimes no power going to it and nothing happens. (Yes the Red/Blue wire haw power with the key in the ACC position) - Sometimes I get an E4 code - When it does finally work, I can pressurize the front and rear with the key switch in ACC. However when I turn the key from ACC to ON (or to OFF), I can hear air pressure released behind the seat when the key is put back in the ACC position. When I check the pressures, the rear pressure is where I set it but the front pressure reads zero (and from the ride, it is really at zero) What seems to make it go between these three modes is when I disconnect/reconnect the connector on the backside of at the control panel (right side of fairing) or wiggle the same connector a bit. Also, I just change the front fork seals and dust covers and didn't even touch the electronics or the mechnicals (pump, drier, valves, solenoids) for the CLASS system. Before I start taking things apart, does anyone have any quick and dirty ideas? I'm thinking there is a loose connector on the board and I may have a solenoid in the back that is sticking -- but I'm really new to the Venture and I'm just guessing at this point.
-
Many times we over look the simple and expect the worst TCI failure. Most ignition failure causes are connection issues and not the TCI. Here are the steps I use to trouble shoot an ignition problem on a first gen with suspected TCI problem. 1. Remove battery and battery compartment. 2. Unplug both connectors from TCI box 3. With a digital ohm meter connect the black neg lead to the black battery cable. Do not connect to frame or chassis for a ground. Now measure with the red lead of ohm meter to a frame bolt or engine bolt. You should have O ohms or slightly higher.The ground connection to chassis is good.Now we are ready to measure TCI connectors. 4. On the smaller 6 pin connector measure the black wire. It should read 0 ohms or slightly higher. This is the gnd output from TCI to the pickup coil center taps. It may be easier to insert red test probe into the back of the connector plug to take these readings. NOTE: The ground comes from the TCI. You won't have a ground connection on the stator side with connector unplugged. The main ground to the TCI comes in on the output connector from the frame and loops through the TCI to the pickup coil input connector then through the pickup coil connector along lower frame next to stator. 5. Now measure the Orange,Gray,White/Red,and White/Green wires one at a time. These are pickup coil inputs to TCI.They should read 115 -125 ohms normal. If you don't have this or loss of one or more the most common cause is connector failure. (see white connector plug along frame above stator and clean contacts). 6. The Black/White wire is the Emergency Inhibit line. If it measure 0 ohms or has a low resistance the bike willl not start. Normally this measurement is done with the battery hooked up via jumper cables and ign switch on. Various sources through energized relays can inhibit this line. Such as emergency killl switch,side stand relay,tilt switch.clutch switch,etc. 7. With battery unhooked lets move to the 8 pin plug. measure the black wire should be 0 ohms system ground. 8. With the battery unhooked move the black lead of ohm meter to the Red + battery cable and turn on ignition switch. We are now going to measure the resistance back through each Primary Ignition coil to the battery positive lead. 9. Measure the Orange,Gray,Yellow, and White wires. Each should read 2.5 to 3 ohms ref the red battery lead.These are the induction output wires that fire the energized ignition coils, The Red/White wire is 13.8 volt supply line and should read 0 ohms.Thats it for the dc continuity test of connections to TCI. The Black/Yellow,Black/Red wires are from the pressure switch and should only be measured with engine running. The pressure sensor converts pressure into voltage which varys the timing advance with changes of pressure caused by rpm increase. These timing changes can be viewed with a Oscilloscope measuring the pickup coil input pulse and the corresponding output pulse for each cylinder.This is not something you need to worry about now. If all is well to this point and the obvious has been checked including Spark plugs and plug wires it's time to check the TCI. Before removing it (a patience trying task) I would plug in a spare unit. Every first gen owner should have a working spare or know where you can borrow one. If the TCI is defective remove from bike, open the case by removing the 4 phillips screws exposing the soldered side of circuit board. place in oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes to remove any moisture in module. You can remove any corrosion from solder side of circuit board with gentle strokes of an old tooth brush and an electronic contact cleaning spray. If you have soldering ability and a low wattage iron resolder all connections below the heatsink nuts on the circuit board. These are the contacts leading to the out side connectors. The heatsink nuts hold the switching transistors that fire the ignition coils. Resolder the 3 terminals of each transistor. with a magnifying glass carefully inspect the remaining solder connections on the board. Anything that has a dull color or hairline crack should be resoldered. You have now fixed probably 95 % of TCI failures. Actual componet failures are rare and can only be accomplished by electronic techinicians with specialized desoldering stations and a schematic of the TCI. Not to mention parts availability for a 20 year old technology. Watch used TCI's can be bought on Ebay ocassionally for $50 bucks. 10. The best way to check a TCI is on the bike but I have plans for bench testing later.
-
I may be the only RSV rider this has happened to but I wanted to share a cheap solution I found for my cb black plastic antenna connector that broke. First of all, Yamaha doesn't sell the connector, just the whole antenna at $175. From the post I had listed before there were some good ideas but I wanted to keep the OEM appearance if possible without spending $175. Anyway, I took the broken connector to a machine shop and they machined one exactly like the original. I knew the guy who did it and he said it took about 5 minutes and the best part is, didn't charge me anything. I have reassembled the antenna and you can't tell it from OEM. Just thought I'd share what worked for me. You bet I'm happy.
-
Modulite Installation Note: The Modulite and similar units are designed for isolating and converting your trailer wiring from the bikes lighting circuit. These units are designed to go from a bikes lighting system which uses separate turn signals to a conventional trailer lighting setup that combines the turn signals with the brake/tail lights. It will NOT work if your trailer uses conventional motorcycle type lighting with separate turn signals. If your trailer uses motorcycle type lighting, you will need to purchase an "isolation" unit. There are several on the market. Bushtec sells their own unit and the Electrical Connection also sells one. Here is a link to the unit at the Electrical Connection. http://electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns-trailer.htm This installation is for the Modulite trailer wiring kit. The specific one that I used is model 18146. There is more information on this unit HERE. There are other models and brands that will also work but this just happens to be the one that I used. There are a number of places that this unit could be mounted and other ways that the wiring can be routed to the plug at the rear of your bike. This way worked well for me. This installation is on the Yamaha RSV but these units will also work great on the First Gen Venture or the RSTD. I mounted the unit under the seat. This particular model is slender and will slide down beside the battery. Here is a picture of the unit. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/moduliteout.JPG Wiring is fairly simple. Anybody can do this job if you simply follow the instructions and take your time. There are 6 wires coming out of the unit from the side that says "To Car"...or in our case..."To Bike". There is a black wire that is labeled 12V...you need to run that wire through an inline fuse and then directly to the positive battery terminal. There is also a "ground" or "negative" wire that will connect to the negative terminal of the battery. There are 4 wires that connect to the wiring harness of your bike. An easy place to splice these into the bikes harness is at the natural color connector just behind the battery. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/connections.jpg You can see that I used snap type wire splices for this but I plan to redo these over the winter and use soldered connections. I am just not a big fan of these snap splices. They will work though if you don't wish to do the soldering. The connections are as follows. There is a green wire marked "right signal" out of the Modulite. Splice into green wire at bike's connector. Yellow wire marked "left signal" out of the Modulite. Splice into brown wire at bike's connector. Red wire marked "Stop" out of Modulite. Splice into yellow wire at bike's connector. Brown wired marked "Tail Lights" out of Modulite. Splice into Blue wire at bike's connector. That's it for the wiring. Now just tape up the splices you made. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/connectionstaped.jpg These next two pictures show how I slid the unit into the space beside the battery. The first shows it about half way in and in the second picture, it is slid all the way down. I used a tie wrap to secure it there but it wouldn't go anywhere even without one. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/modulitehalf.JPG http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/modulitein.JPG All that remains now is to run the wires coming out of the "To Trailer" side of the Modulite to the hitch of your bike. I ran mine across the top of the fender first and under the trunk. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/fenderroute.jpg I then came out from under the trunk and through rubber grommet behind the license plate so that I could route the wires on the inside of the rear fender. As you can see...I also used some wiring loom to cover them at this point. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/rearroute.jpg Finally, I brought them from inside the fender about the hitch and to the connector. As you can see, I again used some wire loom and also replaced the flat connector with the round type. That is simply a matter of choice. http://www.venturerider.org/modulite/hitch.jpg That is all there is to it. Pretty simple and works great.
