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VR Assistance

  1. Well, after getting everyone's urging I called PCW and ordered the parts to upgrade my 03 RSV Clutch. $168 plus change. All I can say is WOW PCW was great to work with on the ordering. Really make you feel like you are their most important customer. Something that seems to be really lacking from most companies now. They are shipping today and I might have them by Friday. If so, I am going to try to do it on Saturday or Sunday. If not it will be next week. I am very apprehensive about doing the upgrade, even with Tartan Terror's great article. I live under the cloud of Murphy's Law. I have learned to live with it . I wonder how big a Steak and how many beers it would take to get Chaos to come over and help me out?? PCW said I could call them along the way too, so maybe it will work out OK. We are going on our Annual Weekend get-away with another couple to Southern MO around Steelville on 7/6, so I want it done before then. Everyone keep their fingers crossed and stay close to your cell phones TT, Chaos and Freebird!! Jay
  2. My 1985 Venture Royale has slipping clutch in 4th and 5th gears. Was going to repalce with Barnett SR 2 Pressure plate and clutches. Was told this does not fit 1985 .. So what have others done to correct slipping clutch on 1985... How good are EBC clutches and springs.. Thank You Joe in NJ
  3. Ok so here is my issue (the only thing keeping my venture royale from going down the road) My bike runs mint now bled all the hydralic systems fresh oil change and rearend oil but the clutch wont letgo. I start the bike on the center stand to test everything out, press on the front brake and clutch and kick it into gear, bike starts clunking around a bit and spinning the rear wheel even with the clutch all the way in. if i press on the rear brake it will stall out the engine. any ideas of what needs to be done? I've orderd new clutch springs as I dont realy want to mess with replaceing the whole clutch right now. I'm still new at working on bikes. I do know if I replace one spring at a time I wont end up dissassembling the clutch and it should be a realativly easy job. and just see if that does the trick. Could it be from not enough oil? I put 3 quarts in but not 100% that was enough. I'm working blind as I dont have a manual. bike did sit for 6 years could it fix itself if I just kept running it (clutch sticking from nonuse for so long?)
  4. Hi all! Got my RSTD back from it's check-up (clutch basket not in yet so it will have to go back later) and it's CB install. Question/Problem is this: Sounds like I have an nest of angry bees in my helmet that increase with RPM'S and speed. This is one of the J&M new ones that does the NOAA weather and all. It works great other than that annoying,very loud buzz. This was a dealer install so what do I tell the guys when I go back for my clutch basket change? Do I need a filter somewhere or what? Thanks in advance again for all your help! Ride safe, Becky
  5. RSV Instructions for Clutch Removal, Install and Upgrade. Thanks to Tartan Terror for this GREAT article. These are instructions for replacing the clutch on a Royal Star Venture. As part of the install on my bike, I also did a clutch upgrade which involved removing several parts and installing an additional full size clutch disc. I found that with this upgrade, I was able to eliminate all of the slip that I was experiencing. At the time I did this upgrade, I also installed a heavier spring available from PCW Racing that also made the clutch more firm. With these instructions you will also be able to do a clutch on your bike completely to stock also. First you need to remove the cover located on the right side of the bike. It is the round cover just in front of the horn. You will need a 5mm Allen key to remove the bolts. In my case, I used a ratchet with a 5mm Allen bit and a ball head Allen key also. To make the removal easy, I also took an old 5mm Allen key and shortened it so that I could loosen the bolts behind the exhaust without removing or loosening the exhaust. When I removed all the bolts, I drew a shape of the cover on cardboard and place the bolts in holes placed in the cardboard so that the bolts will go back in the proper holes. Next you need to gently remove the cover. I did not need to drop any of the oil out of the engine. Although it is a wet clutch, when the engine is not running there is very little oil in the clutch area. Gently tap the cover with a dead blow hammer or something that will not mark your chrome. Remove the cover and clean the old gasket off the cover and surfaces on the block of the engine. When the cover is off, make note of the marks in the clutch basket and on the clutch friction plates. On the basket you will see at one point (5 o'clock position) there are two marks in the basket. You will also see that the with the discs in that all the discs have two marks also. At the 11 o'clock position you will also see one mark in the basket and the same mark on the friction plates. These marks are very important when you reinstall the friction discs. They MUST be lined up. Next you will need to remove the small plate on the outside of the clutch. It is held on by 6 bolts and you will need to use a 10mm socket or wrench. Remove the small plate and spring. Be careful because there is a small metal ring that sits in the pressure plate in a groove under the spring. You now need to remove the pressure plate. All you need to do is lift it off. After you do this, remove all the friction discs and steel plates from the clutch basket. All the way in on the cutch, you will see where you took the plates and friction discs out, a wire. Remove this wire. You will need to break it. This holds in a steel disc like all the others, a half disc and a spring washer. You need to take all of these out. These parts are the parts that you will trash if you choose to upgrade and put in a full size disc. If not, keep all these parts and take note how they come out so that you can return them as they came out. Make sure you get everything out. There is a flat steel washer in there that you have to work at getting out. It does come out and when you get it, the inner surface will be completely flat. Below is a picture of the parts that will be discarded in place of a full sized plate. The plate you will use is the same plate and part number as the rest. Whether you are installing new friction discs or just upgrading and installing one new one with all the others, they must be soaked in oil. As the RSV is a wet clutch, the discs are meant to absorb oil to work properly. Next you will need to prepare the steel plates to be reinstalled. At the recommendation of PCW Racing, I sanded the discs lightly in a crosshatch pattern so that the clutch has better grip. You can also bead blast them lightly as well. Now you are ready to reinstall the clutch. If you decide to use the original clutch parts (the small disc, washer and plate) do so now and install a wire in the groove to replace the one removed. If you are doing the upgrade like I did, you will now install the first friction plate, being careful to line up the grooves like specified so that the two notches match up to the marks on the basket at the 5 o'clock position and one notch at the 11 o'clock position. Install all the discs and plates alternating disc, plat, disc, plate. I also made it a point to spread extra oil on the discs and plates as I installed them. When they are all in, you will have a clutch disc on the outside and all the notches will line up. Next you will put on the pressure plate. The pressure plate has a punch mark on the front - make sure it lines up correctly with the single mark next to one of the bolt towers on the clutch basket. On the back side, you will see that the plate has splines that will match up with the teethe on the inner clutch basket. If these don't fit together correctly, the spring will not sit correctly. After you have this in then place the spring on next, making sure that the small ring is sitting in the groove on the front side of the pressure plate. Now install the spring. In my case, I installed a PCW spring which is heavier than the stock spring but of the same design. The stock spring is installed the same. If you use a Barnett pressure plate, follow the instructions that came with the kit. When installing the spring retainer plate and bolts, be careful not to tighten the 6 bolts too tight. Also, you will need to make sure that the spring is centered. There are notches on the towers that the 6 bolts tighten into that the finger on the center of the spring should rest on. Tighten evenly and crisscross your torqueing pattern. The torque is 5.8 ft lbs or 70 in.lbs. Reinstall the cover being careful not to crimp the new gasket and you are done. Like I said, I did the upgrade and I love it. It is better for pulling a trailer. One thing you will notice with the upgrade is the pull on your clutch lever is harder but not by much and you will adjust to it very quickly. I also recommend the upgrade if you are driving hard or have added stuff to get more power from your bike. Now get out and ride!!!
  6. With bike in netural and clutch out it rattles alot. When I pull the clutch in it makes alot less noise. Should I be concerned? Though it was a connecting rod bearing or cam but it wasn't. Gene Weir
  7. help!!! i cant seem to find anything on how to bleed the clutch.. and i cant find a bleeder.. i have 2 bikes that need this done on them.. :bang head: :bang head:
  8. Pre-Owned Venture This article was written by a mechanic in 1988 who worked on all types and brands of motorcycles, but as you read it you will see the general points would be the same for all motorcycles. From a service standpoint, there are a few things to look at if you are considering buying a pre-owned motorcycle. Exterior cleanliness and mileage do not always tell the whole story. Service records are a good indication of the owner's attitude toward maintenance. If the owner takes the time to keep records of service and repair, he is most likely to have it done right and on time. Without the service record, you are just shooting in the dark and must rely on the seller's telling you the complete truth. Unfortunately, most people do not keep the best records. So here are a few things to be aware of: TIRES: Tires are the first things to check. Naturally, the depth of the tread and condition of the side walls are what you look at. Any cracking in the side walls or cuts or splits in the tread will have you buying a new tire in the near future. If the bike has new or nearly new rubber on it, always check the mileage on the speedo, and casually ask the seller how many times he has put new tires on the bike. This will give you an estimate of how much abase the machine has gone through. For instance, a Venture with 14,000 miles which is on its third rear tire but still has the original front tire is telling you the guy is into stoplight drag racing. This could indicate clutch wear as well. CLUTCH: Because the clutch is on the inside of the motor and you can't see it, you must ride the bike to check for slippage. This can be done at a moderate speed in fourth or fifth gear. Just fan the clutch a few times while under acceleration and listen to the motor. If the clutch is slipping, the rpm's will remain high after releasing the clutch lever. If the rpm speeds up and the bike does not, this machine is in need of a new clutch. The other tell tale sign is to remove the oil filler cap and smell the oil. If it smells like burned toast, this could indicate a problem also. OIL: Anyone who has any sense at all will probably change the oil before he tries to sell his bike. Nice clean oil looking at you through the sight window makes the machine a little easier to sell. But be careful even a bike with new oil may still have a little burned toast smell left if you check closely. Also, look at the underside of the filler cap for sludge or anything that may indicate what the rest of the inside might be like. With the motor cold and not running, stick year finger into the filler hole and take a sample of the scum on the inside motor case. A quick peek at the drain plug and oil filter cup will also let you know if the oil was just changed. There is usually a little oil residue left there after a recent oil change. Rear gear oil usually looks pretty clean because there is no internal combustion or clutch wear to dirty it. The drain plug has a magnet on it to collect the worn pieces of metal and such that accumulate there. Even though the gear oil is clean, the magnet will look like a dirty ball of metal fuzz. This is normal. But if any large pieces of shrapnel are found, you should look further to see where they came from. The rear drive shaft splines are impossible to check or see without removing the rear wheel and gear case. If you do buy the bike, it would be a good idea to pay for the hour and a half or so of labor and have it properly greased and inspected. This is for your peace of mind and may save you trouble down the road. A new drive shaft is only about 55.00, but the aggravation of this kind of trouble on the side of the road is not worth pinching pennies over, so if the splines are worn, replace it now. The drive shaft is not a failing part of the Yamaha Venture, but as the bike gets older and gets higher in mileage, a little preventive maintenance is a good idea. Scratches and scrapes can tell you a little about the machine's history. You may not be able to tell how many times ifs been down, or to what extent damage was sustained if the owner had it repaired, but you should check for a few things anyway. All body parts may not be the same color because they don't always fade in the sun exactly the same. But if there is an obvious difference in color, the part could have been replaced, so find out why. It could have been changed for a lot of reasons, but if it was the result of an accident, make sure it was replaced correctly. You may want to check with the repairing dealer to make sure no corners were cut to keep the cost down. A bent sub frame or mounting tab could cause a painted body part to crack later on. If it has been down on the right side, always check the water pump joint between the thermostat case and the pump itself. It's an L-shaped silver plastic piece and is very vulnerable to being damaged by the right case guard. Also on the right, make sure the throttle does not stick or bind up because of damage on the end of the grip from a fall. Ventures don't have a history of things going wrong with the radiator hoses. With that in mind, they have probably never been replaced. Check carefully for cracks and to see if they are still pliable and not brittle or hard. The coolant itself should be clean and free of dirt or sludge, never milky or brown (that color could indicate internal engine trouble). A sheepskin seat cover is nice, but look under it; it could be hiding a real mess. If you are partial to the stock leather cover, make sure it's fit to sit on. Trunk repair on early Ventures is not uncommon. Look at the bottom of the trunk for cracks around the mounts and lock assembly. A fiberglass repair kit is not a lot of money, but you will want to consider it when talking price. Light bulbs are not expensive either, but the instrument bulbs are not very easy to get to and some after market accessories have bulbs that are harder to find in stores. Brake pads are easy to check because they can be seen without removing anything. The rear pads can be viewed by looking between the right saddlebag and rear fender or from under the bag on late models. You may need to use a flashlight to get a good view, and if it has all the Venture accessories you may need to remove the right bag on early models. Once you have spotted the end of the brake pad, you should check to see that there is at the very least one millimeter of brake fiber between the rotor and the metal back side of the pad. One millimeter or less and you should replace the pads before they begin to damage the rotor. The front pads can be seen easily from each side and the same measuring specifications are used. If the Venture has rotor covers and caliper covers, don't worry, just look through the wheel at the pad on the opposite side of the bike to check the wear. The rotors themselves are almost impossible to destroy unless they were bent in an accident or run for a long time with brake pads that were completely worn out, and were metal-to-metal. If the rotors are blue and obviously were very hot at one time, spin the wheel and check to see if they are warped. An improperly adjusted brake pedal or lever will cause pressure to build up and the brake pads will drag on the rotor, causing it to heat up enough to turn color but not necessarily warp the rotor. Brake and clutch fluids should be clean and clear or a light color. If fluids are dark and have a lot of black "gook" in the bottom of the reservoir, they will need to be changed and flushed. This is caused by heat. The clutch fluid will turn dark faster because the clutch slave cylinder is bolted to the engine cases. This heat from the engine is transferred to the clutch fluid and turns it to a dark color as it is slowly cooked. The brake fluid used for the brakes does not get this hot unless the brakes are not adjusted properly, as explained above. it shows a good or even strong reading,. Battery: Because we change batteries about every two years their is not much to see here except to check the cables for corrosion this could mean having to replace them. One thing that's almost always overlooked is the fuse box. It has to be moved to check the battery but most people never look inside. "Why?" you might ask. Well, if there are no spare fuses under the lid, they had to go some where. If this is the case, ask the owner about it and you will probably get some interesting stories about what happened. If the Venture is covered with lights and accessories with all the bulbs burned out, look for bad grounds or dirty bulb sockets or even a loose accessory causing the bulbs to vibrate them selves to death. Electrical problems are something to avoid when buying a used bike. The fact that there is a problem is bad enough, but it's a lot harder for a mechanic to find the problem if you can't give him any of the history of the bike (or the problem) you just purchased. These thoughts on electrical problems may help to keep the sparks from flying after the sale! I hope these last three months have helped you to make the right choice. Of course, these are not all the things to look for. Any whine, grind, squeak or knock should be investigated, and if it's hard to roll or the levers and pedals are stiff or bind up, you should make sure they just need lubrication and not some new parts. Bill Daly
  9. Guest

    problem shifting

    I have an 86 venture royale and early this spring I noticed that after the engine is warm my clutch lever was very spongy and the bike became hard to shift. I took it into the local yamaha shop and they bleed the clutch. It helped for one trip of 30 miles then started again. There is no visable leaks or fluid loss. I have had this bike for 2 yr. and it only has 26,000 miles on it what may be the problem. thanks for any help I can get. ross
  10. BARNETT CLUTCH CONVERSION INSTALLATION The parts were ordered from Rick at Buckeye Performance in Ohio. The fiber discs ONLY were replaced given the wear and mileage, the plates were reusable. Parts used: FRICTION PLATE #YA26H-16321-01-04 (notched/6 ea.) FRICTION PLATE #YA26H-16307-01-00 (un notch/1 ea.) Retaining wire BNT-SR-2 CONVERSION SR-2 SPRING CLUTCH (1 set) STARTING NOTE: This was done without removing the clutch pedal or linkage. Also note that with the bike on it's side stand, there is little or no loss of oil. 1. Remove the clutch housing cover. After removing the bolts the cover may need a bit of persuading to give it up. CAUTION! A rubber hammer is recommended, as one was not available when this was done, a hammer was employed along with a very thick towel to soften the taps to the housing. 2. With the cover removed the next step is removing the diaphragm and pressure plate. These items won't be used and can be discarded or stored. This time the 6 bolts were reused. Others have replaced them with new bolts. 3. Next remove the old friction plates and discs. Note: there is a set of 1 plate and 1 disc held at the very bottom of the clutch basket by a thin retaining wire. The wire is held in place by a couple of bent ends that are pushed through a hole in the basket. The wire needs to be removed and the last two pieces taken out. 4. The empty basket. Clean and get ready for reassembly. Check the edges of the uprights for any burrs or imperfections. NOTE: When inserting the discs make sure that you have the tang with the double notches aligned with the two 'dots' on the clutch basket. 5. Place one disc and then (the odd) friction plate (#YA26H-16321-01-00) and one re-used spacer into the base of the basket. Make sure they are soaked with fresh oil. (take note that there are no notches on the first disc) Place the NEW wire into the channel cut into the basket and into the notches of the basket uprights and secure it by pushing the bent ends into the hole. Be patient. A long thin screwdriver also facilitates the job. NOTE: You can never have enough oil on the new discs and plates. When inserting the discs and plates, double check to make sure that the notches are lined up with the two dots on the lip of the basket. NOTE: Here is what a full basket looks like. 6. The final plate goes in. 7. Place the Barnett Clutch pressure plate on the basket. The instructions with the Barnett show the "Barnett" label up, but you will probably need to rotate it until it fits right. Just rotate the plate until it is seated without any gap between the plate and the top disc. 8. With the plate sitting correctly in the basket and the ease of the spring compression to start the bolts. Torque the bolts at 8 lbs. 9. Put the new gasket on, the housing on and secure the cover. Time involved is about an hour to an hour and a half.
  11. I bought my 83 about 18 months ago and the clutch has allways slipped if I accellerate hard. Last winter I took the clutch a part and the disc looked OK so I ordered some barnette springs and put her back together. This helped a lot but it still slips at higher speeds and higher RPM's. I assume that I will need to just bite the bullet and replace the hole clutch but was hoping for any advice such as where is a good place to get these parts and, is this a common problem with these bikes? Thanks and sorry if this is a reduntent topic. Tim
  12. My 97 TC at 55K miles, has developed an annoyance! Under hard acceleration in 5th the clutch slips. Different oil types, full synthetic, half synthetic and dino don't make any difference. I understand there is a clutch spring replacement kit available that corrects yamma momma's design deficiency in this area. Does anyone have experience with this? Also, whats the general concensus concerning the type of clutch plates to get to replace what's there. This looks to be a winter project to keep my beast happily on the road. Thanks :confused24:
  13. This tech tip covers numerous possible solutions, including the proper alignment of the rear drive and simple greasing of parts of the final drive clutch hub. One point of clarification to pay attention to when talking to your dealer is the difference between the final drive "clutch hub drive pins" (also called Clutch Pins in the figure on page 3 of the Tech Tip), and the clutch hub "drive splines." The pins fit into damper bushings in the wheel assembly and are NOT visible until the hub is removed from the wheel. The drive splines are on the outside of the hub and mate to the final drive when the wheel is mounted to the bike. These splines are what you see on the left side of the wheel when you remove it from the bike. These are clearly labeled in the Tech Tip. If you have had the shop try to fix this noise at least once without success, the noise you hear is probably coming from dry "clutch hub drive pins," not the drive splines. If you tell your shop to make sure the "splines" are greased, they are probably doing just that, and this does NOT solve your problem. If we all use the correct terminology when talking about this problem, we have a much better chance of getting all these Yamaha mechanics educated about the right fix. Thanx for listening, Goose BTW - although I do not know this for sure, I also suspect that the noise is probably caused much more from bushings not fully seated (as described in the bulletin) than just dry pins, so the wear marks on the drive pins should be closely examined as described in the Tech Tip. __________________
  14. Clutch Hope this will explain all you will ever have to know about the clutch in your Venture, because sooner or later the tack will start going up faster then the speedometer when you punch it to pass. The one strange thing I have noticed about the Venture clutch is that you notice slippage in the higher gears not in first or second. The time it takes to inspect the clutch in your Venture before a long trip is well worth it. Things you will need before starting 5 mm Allen or hex socket, 6 new springs or diaphragm spring, a new clutch gasket, a 6 in ruler, a set of calipers or a 01 in micrometer. With the bike on the side stand the clutch cover can be removed with out loss of oil and if you start with a cold engine a novice should be able to complete the the inspection within two hours (one hr. at the Yamaha shop). After you have the cover off, remove the six bolts from the clutch and remove the driven plate (pressure plate), then remove the steel and fiber disks inspecting them for excessive wear and color. If the steel plates look blue or purple in spots or the knurling (diamond shaped indentations) are uneven replace them as they are warped. If they look good it might be a good idea to have them glass beaded or sand blasted to remove any glaze as they seem to cause slippage before the fiber plates are out of tolerance. You should now see the last metal plate held in with a long wire that goes all the way around the center of the clutch boss. This plate and the friction plate behind it need not be checked unless you intend to replace all of the metal plates. Have them de glazed if the clutch has been chattering, because they are, used as a damper. Now check the splines on the clutch boss for chafing where the plates run, as this can cause erratic operation. If the chafing (necks or grooves) are slight to moderate, you can carefully de-burr with a file or replace the boss. Now check all parts to see that they are within there ware limits listed. If the friction plates are ok it might be a good idea to de glaze them with a wire brush. I have listed the parts and there ware limits for both types of venture clutch. To reassemble start with one of the 6 friction plates that have the two round notches, alien the two notches with the two marks on the clutch housing, now place a metal plate on the clutch boss, repeat this until you have replaced the 6 plates then take the last plate with the large square notch and alien it with the two marks on the clutch housing . When you put the pressure plate on, alien the mark on the clutch boss with the hole or mark on the pressure plate then place the 6 springs or the diaphragm spring and retainer and tighten the 6 bolts evenly. replace the clutch cover and torque the 5 mm bolts to 8.7 ft-lb. most of the information in this article can be found in a Yamaha service manual that can be purchase through M.T.A. Remember to replace the hydraulic fluid with dot 3 once a year or if turns dark. Parts Standard clutch 1983-1985 6 springs #90501-24734-00 normal length 41.6 mm / 1.64 in minimum length 40.3 mm / 1.59 in replace if the springs are to short or you have over 30,000 miles on the clutch. 6 friction plates #26h-16307-00-00 1 friction plate #26h-16331-01-00 1 friction plate #26h-16321-00-00 thickness 2.9 to 3.1 mm / 0.1142 to 0.1220 minimum thickness 2.8 mm / 0.11 in 7 metal clutch plates #26h-16324-00-00 thickness 2.2 to 2.4 mm / 0.0866 to 0.0945 in no minimum listed warp limit 0.2 mm / 0.0079 in 1 clutch boss #26h-16371-00 1 gasket #26h-15462-00 1986-1991 venture / v-max diaphragm clutch 1 clutch spring #1fk-16334-00-00 6 friction plates #26h-16307-00-00* 1 friction plate #26h-16321-00-00* 1 friction plate #26h-16331-00-00* 7 metal clutch plates #26h-16324-00-00* 1 metal clutch plate #1fk-16352-00-00* 1 clutch boss #1fk-16371-00-00 1 gasket #26h-15462-00-00* *(parts are the same as 1983-85 clutch) Fred J. Vogt
  15. Cruise Question: My '88 Royale will be going along fine on cruise when all of a sudden, it shuts off. I can't associate it with hitting a bump or anything like that. Any ideas? Answered: If the resume light comes on and you can reset the cruise; the Clutch lever has to much play (this should also allow you to start the motor in gear), or the rear brake switch is to tight and needs adjusting. The clutch lever is the most common; it can be a worn bushing or a bad switch, or on high mileage bikes it can be a warn pivot hole in the lever its self. The series circuit for this goes from the clutch switch to the hand brake switch to the cancel switch to the rear brake switch. These switches are all normally closed, so any switch can kill the cruse. Has it lost 5 miles per hr from the set speed? This could be the vacuum pump or the speed sensor on the speedometer. Their are tests in the service manual to check out these possibilities Fred Vogt The following problem came up at V-Daze in Kalispell MT. . The member got the bike to a Yamaha shop that worked long hours to try to get this member back on the road. They changed the stator, regulator and even put a new battery in the bike and because they didn't find the problem they didn't charge the member for the work or the parts they used. I would like to thank that dealer for trying so hard to resolve this member's problem and if they read this. "thank you for your support" Symptom: Battery shows discharge with the motor running, if the clutch lever is actuated it charges again. If the front or rear brake is actuated it charges, but not as much as if the clutch lever is depressed. The curse control will not work. All of the fuses are ok. If you disconnect the wiring to the clutch switch or ether brake switch the bike charges normally. If you disconnect the cruise control unit it dose not help. If you disconnect the vacuum pump it dose not help. If you disconnect the cruise controls on the right handle bar the bike charges normally. Checking resistance with a meter shows no shorts or shorts to ground on any of the connectors. Solution: Upon dissembling the cruise controls on the right handle bar we found a wire from the cancel switch pinched under a screw that held the switch together. After taping the wire and reassembling the controls the bike worked normally. Note: To say that this was a bizarre problem would be an under statement. It was obvious that this wire was pinched at the factory when it was assembled; but waited for 30,000 miles to show it's ugly head. I call this type of short an active short and is very difficult to find because unless voltage is present it will not show a short on any meter. The path for the cruise control cancel voltage is from the rear brake to The front brake then to the clutch switch then to the controls on the right handle bar and finally to the cruise control unit. I doubt that this problem is going to be a common one but; it dose bear thought because any short in the canceling circuit of the cruise will give similar symptoms. Fred Vogt 1037
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