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Showing results for tags 'checked'.
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Advice please, 2009 Royal star venture. The audio control shows no sign of life. checked connections. Will clean and reconnect after reading threads here. Is there any other secret repair. I have also checked the fuse and voltage to the brown/white wire. If it doesn't come to life what are the alternatives. How do you tell if it's the brain box or the controller and display on the handlebar? Is there repair for them? Where? cost? or replacement? where? cost? Thanks for your help.
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Just noticed yesterday that my high beam is no longer working. I'm assuming that this is not a fuse issue as the low beam is still working, so will someone please direct this dumba$$ as to how to change out the bulb! I checked the 2nd Gen Tech Library and didn't find anything. Thanks. Signed, Dumba$$
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Got an e-mail confirmation that carbtune received my order for a carbtune pro....Hmmmmm very interisting..I didn't order one..checked with my credit card company and they said yep I ordered it . checked the conformation again and the shipping addy is mine....hmmmm...checked my wallet and hmmmm, my credit card is missing hmmmmm....someone from this site has been coaxing Taters again...........whoever it was thanks..........hmmmmm....maybe thats why she was in my wallet yesterday..hmmmmmmmmm ......Taters must learn to log me off and herself on..........BUSTED..............:fnd_(16):now I have to tell her that I must have lost my credit card and that I reported it stolen..........
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I believe my carbs are about to get cleaned up using the Seafoam and technical advice from Goose and some of you other techs. At least they're running smoother but the bike still revs between shifts. Another strange thing (to me) is the difference in the temp between the cylinders. Cylinders 1, 2, &4 run about 250 deg but #3 is about 400 deg.as checked with my handi dandi IR thermo gun. What temps should they run and will it hurt #3 to run 400+?? Will appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
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Is it just me, or is anyone else receiving E-mails from royal98rider pushing Cell phones? Checked the membership list and don't find any listing for this individual.
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I am so glad to be home for the weekend. This was a very trying week for me. I know that we all have them from time to time. I was in Pittsburgh, PA all week. Not my favorite place to begin with. It went downhill from there. 1. First hotel I checked into on Monday evening was having problems with their internet. NO NO NO....that doesn't work for me. Checked out and found another hotel. 2. Hotel number two was just fine. The only problem was that a bridge was under construction which required that I take a detour of a few miles every time I left the hotel in order to get back to it. Could have been worse though. 3. Brakes started squealing on the front of my company Caravan. High pitched squeal drove me crazy all week. 4. Every morning when I started the van it sounded like something was coming apart. I'm pretty sure that it is an idler pulley. It would quieten down once it warmed up. 5. Not sure where it happened because I didn't notice it until I got back to the hotel and was walking away from the van but somebody managed to run into the right rear and caved the bumper in. I'm pretty sure that it must have happened in a very crowded parking lot that I was in while visiting a customer. So, this week is FINALLY over. I dropped the van off at my local repair shop for an oil change, front brake job and probably an idler pulley. Will take it to the body shop when I get a chance to get an estimate and then repair on the bumper. Now I just have to decide where I'm off to next week. I had planned on going to Buffalo, NY but I just don't think I can tolerate Pittsburgh and Buffalo back to back. Maybe somewhere in West Virginia would be better. I'm thinking maybe Charleston.....we'll see.
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I've got a '00 Honda Rancher, I don't ride it much and here lately it'll crank right up, but once the fuel is consumed out the carburator it goes dead. I'm doing the Seafoam treatment and some WD40 through the intake. I think the float was stuck and now it seems to be working (maybe) While its idling I can watch the fuel line from the tank go empty through the glass filter...it gets just enough to idle and nothing more. I've pulled the fuel line off and have good flow. I've checked the breather tube on the gas cap and its open. I've drained the bowel on the carburator out several times. Any advise on what to check next (would a poor vacuum cause this) or should I break down and find a mechanic. Thanks for ya's input.
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The CB comes on and channels can be changed, the numbers fade out in about two seconds. there is no sound coming through the speakers. Anyone know what else can be checked
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Made it 700 miles from Marietta GA to Ft. Lauderdale no problem. But when I pulled off the exit yesterday after the last 120 miles, my clutch was about gone. Very loose play in the clutch, and obviously very difficult to shift. Had to limp it in the last 8 miles in 2nd gear. I let it cool down and checked the reservoir and it was full, and checked it again this morning, and it seems to be back up to the normal pressure on the clutch handle. But still seems more difficult to shift. Any ideas as to what might be causing this to happen? We leave on a cruise today and return Saturday, and then leave for the 700 mile return trip to GA. I'm hoping someone may have some experience with this particular situation and can recommend a quick fix for me to get it home (other than the obvious rental car and trailer route!) Thanks.
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I checked, cleaned, greased all five front connectors and the two rear connectors on three different occassions and the CB still won't turn on with the front remote controller. I checked the controller on another Venture and it works perfectly. I removed the CB and found no user friendly options. I removed the amplifier and re-attached it and checked grounding. Soooo I buttoned up the bike and said that I can live without the CB. I have no more ways of checking it out. If anyone has additional thoughts please let me know.
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Had a problem start this year. When I hit a bump the speedometer needle would shake a little. While on my long trip it got worse, sometimes to the point where it would drop right to zero, then come back when I hit another bump. This also takes out the odometer and the cruise control. I have removed the fairing and lowers and checked all wiring since it seemed it was when the front hit a bump the problem occurred. I also took all the connectors apart, checked them and put back together. Still same. Any ideas? Thanks in advance
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Had a wire come off the stable horn. Touched the pipe and caused a short. It melted some plastic off the wiring in the fairing. I've gone through and re-taped, replaced, and recovered the wiring. Everything comes on when you turn on the ignition. But when you press the starter button the Starter Relay Assembly buzzes and thats all. What have I messed up or did the short cause the relay to go bad? I checked all the fuses behind the right side lower cover. Checked the ones under the left side cover below the seat. Checked both fuses that are on the Starter relay assembly. What am I missing? Part number 37 is what is buzzing. http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/YAM/2/02/0025/0053.Gif
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Wife backed into my bike the other day and now I'm looking for a new front fender for my '09 RSTD. Local body shop wants $1100 to fix so thinking I can surely find a used one in good shape. Checked the usual suspects (Pinwall, ebay) and gonna start calling junkyards next. Any other places I should be looking?
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I just installed floorboard extensions on my roadstar and now the rear brake line is too short. Any thoughts on where to find one made to order. I checked with the local shops so I'll have to order it.
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86VR, was running rough on acceleration, took carbs off, professionally cleaned, new gaskets, I installed new diaphrams, replaced a frayed cable. Acceleration problem solved. Engine runs very good! Engine idles very smooth. The problem now is that the engine doesn't come down off revs fast enough. This creates obvious problems when shifting and coming to a stop. The throttle grip moves freely, it springs back nicely; but the engine stays reving for 3-5 seconds falling down very slowly until it reaches about 2000rpm where upon it quickly falls to idle like it should. I've checked that everything is property seated. All hoses and caps are good, properly attached. I've check for air leaks around the boots and the airbox. I've triple checked the junction box, cables moving freely. I've moved cable adjustments to each extreme and back. Is this just need of a carb tune? HELP!
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I installed a Chrome Glow LED light Bar and it looks great and the brake light is great. My problem is the turn signals are only about half brightness. I checked the voltage on the turn signal wiring and only about 6 volts is coming through. Does anyone know why I would have only 6 volts to the turn signals? I checked it all the way back to the harness just behind the battery. Is there only supposed to be 6 volts to the turn signals and if so how to I get 12 volts to the turn signal wires on the Array? -
I bought an '83 standard in about 40 pieces, Pretty much everything is there, trying to restore to normal. Choke cable; where does it attach at the carb end. Have and checked manuals but no mention of choke in carb sections or anywhere else, so where? Thanks in advance, Denny
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Hello I am back, on my 88vr I am still having idleing problem when you first start it and when it reaches operating temp. It will idle for a second and then the tack will drop to 0 the engine will still idle but it very low and it will start backfireing thru the tail pipe. when you throttle up it will pop a little and then smooth out when you let go of the throttle it will drop back to 1000 rpm for a second and then drop to 0 and start backfiring. Squeese told me to check for vac. leak around base of carb. I checked this with brake cleaner srayed around each one but it seemed ok no rev. The hoses from the top of the carbs into the air box two of them are a little loose where they go into the box should I seal them will they cause any problem? running down the highway it runs fine. I checked the diaphrams in all 4 carbs no holes they looked new. I have only had the bike for 3 weeks when I first got it, it idled fine iI ran sea foam thru it when I first got it. when I pulled the cover to check the diph. it looked like ther was some oil on the diphrams. I think theres to much oil in it on the sight glass it is all the way to the top is it suppose to be that full? Its been about20 years since i have had A bike I have to learn how to work on them agine. can anyone tell me where I can order a service Manual for this bike. I will be asking a lot of question on here I hope you all dont get tired of me. thanks alot motorhead 704 -
Okay, The bike has 28k on it and it's an '87 royale. Looks great. rebuilt carbs. But now the problem is the darn thing has left me stranded 3 times. I'm seeing voltage gauge running typical range (highest is 14v read on handheld meter) . However, after an hour of driving or so...fan running...etc. hot day...all of a sudden the voltmeter shows no charging (reading 12 v) no matter the rpm, immediate battery drain, fuel pump dies, and I roll into a shady spot to sit for awhile until the bike cools and I know i can start it without the fan coming on. Once it starts, runs fine for some time then it does it again. On a 80 degree day it's not happening. Stator checked out 55 vac across the board, and .7 ohms. when it's running good. Rectifier seems okay, but the manual really isn't clear on the test points. After reading similar stories, (except for the intermittent part) I decided to replace the stator. And if it's not the problem, well, at least now it's something I won't have to worry about. And no, I haven't had the opportunity to run electrical checks when the bike died. which would have been more telling. Now, I have checked and cleaned some grounds, but being an old car mechanic I also think that the main symptom of it only happening after bike gets hot and pulling heavier load with fan, tells me it could be stator wiring breaking down under load and heat, and not a bad ground, which I would think would be more of a consistent problem, and not typically heat related. I also checked continuity of pos / neg from rectifier to frame/battery and it's good. Any suggestions on what else this could be? thanks I'm taking my license road test this friday, so I need to ge this this fixed NOW. LOL.
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Well I pulled the plug caps apart and removed the resistor, cleaned the insides,and replaced with copper wire. pulled the connectors off the TCI and cleaned em, checked plugs with ohm meter [like I knew what I was doing ha!] I don't remember what the reading were but they were the same, checked the plug on the left side of the frame rail-unhooked going to TCI it read 540 ohms except the w/g 512 ohms, going towards pick up coils there was no resistance, o. So with what I could find to clean I did, fired it up, warmed it still #1 & #3 are dead between 2000 RPM and 2500.? I really hate to just start throwing parts at it and try to hit something, really was hoping it was the resistors in the plug caps, any ideas? -
83 VR After all engine and clutch trouble, took on short test ride today. First time on anything so big. Sure can feel the horses:big-grin-emoticon: Still a little engine tuning to do, running pretty good, minor backfire in #3 (I know-seafoam)(recheck sync) Tach indicates ~1400, digital tach indicated 940 (if set correctly??), sounds like about 900, any slower would not idle. Is tach adustable? Biggest problem: Forks bottom out on little bumps. Came back checked air=zero, nada,zip. Pumped in about 2psi at a time and checked. At about 15psi forks shot up-spraying oil out of right fork seal. Pumped up to 18psi. 30 minutes later pressure = zero again. Forks still up, but pressed on frame and they fell back down. I know nothing about MC forks, never messed with them. Help! Suspect I am looking at complete fork rebuild. Where do I start. Thanks for all the help so far, Dingy, Rocket, Squeeze, MiCarl and many others Brian
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This week, Eileen will order the food for Maintenance Day and it is much easier if we have a fairly close count. So again, please go to the calendar and update your RSVP if it has changed. If you had checked YES but are now unable to make it, please remove your name. If you had checked MAYBE but now know for sure, please delete the MAYBE and add YES. This link will take you right to the page on the calendar. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=153&day=2010-6-19&c=1 In the next 3 or 4 days, she will place the order. We always try to order a bit extra but the closer the count the better it works.
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My wholesome honey and I just got off the Blue Ridge Pkwy to get some gas. I checked my mileage after running about 135 miles and it was 49 mpg.
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Im adding another light to the trailer and as I was hooking it up my running lights on the trailer went out. All lights work on the bike and trailer- except trailer running lights. Just figured I blew a fuse but when checked they all are good. So I got my tester out and there is no power coming out of pigtail for the running lights. I have the trailer light assembly (wiring box) with the extra fuse box. I checked all fuses except main- i know its not that one cuz everything else works. Is it possible I fried something in that trailer wiring block? Anyone have any other ideas? Thanx for the help in advance
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Well I guess there is nothing like a mild threat to get things rolling and PayPal helped get things taken care of. I've used PayPal for a long time and never had a problem with a supplier or eBay seller and had to file a dispute. I placed an order for $147.18 with a company back on 3/17/10 for parts on a bike project. When I checked out I saw they had PayPal so I used that option. Over the last four weeks there have been 4 voice mails left on their system with no reply, 4 e-mails sent with no response, and only two occasions were I was able to actually speak with a human only to be told they had problems with their supplier, yada yada, and the next time on 4/7 that they still did not have the parts for shipping and MAYBE sometime later in the month.......maybe. Weird.....before I placed the order they comfirmed that they had EVERYTHING in stock for immediate shipping. So during that phone call on the 7th I canceled my order. The owner stated that he was canceling the PayPal payment and would refund the amount to my PP account within 24 hours. Let see......from 4/7 to 4/15 ......is more than 24 hours right? Another phone call that went to voice mail with no reply, another e-mail requesting the status of the refund......no reply again. So late last night I opened a dispute file on PayPal. Wrote a nice note to the company stating my position and requesting that it be dealt with to avoid a claim. figured it was worth a shot. Not making any progress with these folks on my own. Stopped by the house before noon today and checked my e-mails. Got one from PP stating my dispute had been canceled. What the hey? Just opened that sucker last night. Checked my PP account and what did I find? $147.18 refund. In less than 14 hours at that! I guess the idea of a PP claim against them wasn't something they wanted. Lil do they know that would have been better than me stopping by with my hickory stick. Was getting to that point. So score one for the good guys. Ok.....vented..... Mike
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