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Showing results for tags 'change'.
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After saying last year that im done with mods to the bike, some fools here come up with more parts to sell us and we, like sheep, shell out bucks for them. A simple tail light mod, like adding 2-30 red led strips to the rear as a run/brake light combo turned onto Sky Doc's R1 caliper conversion, which turned into replacing all brake/clutch lines with SS lines which turned into rebuilding the rear caliper and new HH pads, and only the best for me, buying that new 5.1 brake fluid which turned into replacing the rear valve cover gasket which turned into replacing the spark plugs which turned into flushing the cooling system which turned into adding Carbon Ones crash bar bracket, which is turning into 2 more smaller red led lights on the back to replace a burned out one, which will lead to an oil change and rear fluid change. Add a wash and wax and im done for good....... Yea Right!!
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My late winter maintenance this year is to change out all the hoses, thermostat, o-rings in thermostat housing and thermo switch at housing. As some of you know I have a lot of miles and it is past nine years old. I plan a 5,000 mile ride in April so I am going to start on this soon. My question is "is there anything else I should be looking at". Last spring I put new tires on and lubed the swing arm, pins, and differential. I change the rear oil when I change the engine oil and clean the K&N filters. After these 135,000 miles this bike has been flawless although I lost the CB last summer.
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OK...in about a month I'll be taking my bike in for all service it needs EXCEPT the oil change (I'll do that myself). I will let them replace plugs, do a carb synch, change the air filter, replace the final gear oil, and repack the steering bearings. I know that some of this may be a little early, but I'd just as soon get it all done now so I don't have to take the bike back for awhile. Am I MISSING anything else they could or should do? I know some of you might be inclined to tell me to do some of those things...but I am much better at turning the key and the throttle than I am at turning a wrench. Thanks. Wally
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How much work is involved to change the sparkplug wires ? My bike runs a little Rough, and I changed already the Sparkplugs..and now, I was thinking about to change the wires.
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I just got my V-Twin clamps and have fabricated mounting brackets for the RK Classic muffler (# 98a) install. My ? is, are there exhaust gaskets that i need to purchase? Are there exhaust gaskets at all? I want to make sure I have everthing before I start the change out. Thanks, Byron
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I have an '01 RSV. I want to replace the coolant plugs (rubber) under the cooling fins and can't find a P/N anywhere online, does anyone have the numbers I need ? The dimes are working for now but I want to change them out before spring. If there's a list of part numbers somewhere on the forum please give me a link. Thanks
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Just noticed yesterday that my high beam is no longer working. I'm assuming that this is not a fuse issue as the low beam is still working, so will someone please direct this dumba$$ as to how to change out the bulb! I checked the 2nd Gen Tech Library and didn't find anything. Thanks. Signed, Dumba$$
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How does the job market look for you? Our company is doing a major change of operations gearing up for the future. I guess change must come losing some people and positions and hiring increases for other departments.Looks like this old dog has to learn some new tricks to stay ahead of the game.My position is firm just need to go back to school.
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I changed my oil and noticed a lot of sludge on the filler cap. This is an 02 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 4.7 V-8. That was about 2200 miles ago and I added 7.5 oz. of SeaFoam to the oil when I put it in. I also installed a new PCV valve. The truck has 126.5K miles now and I have never had a problem with it. Question: Can I continue to use the SeaFoam with each oil change or should I change from dino oil to synthetic? And would either of this make any difference? There is a forum that really blasts this engine for too small journals and cylinders dropping out plus engine seisures with low mileage, but I have never had any problems other than the sludge starting to build.
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My radio seems to dislike the cold. A couple of days ago, I could not get the radio to turn on. When I got home, I turned on the CB... ok. Then the radio...ok. Switched them all off... ok. Today, on a rode, I was slowing for an intersection, and heard loud but garbled voices. The CB had switched itself on. I cannot turn it off, change the channel, or switch to headset. I also cannot get the radio to come on. Is this a fair weather radio I have on my 08 Venture? Is there a quick fix? Or is this a guarantee job?
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My wife drives an 2006 Malibu 4cyl auto. It is making a humming noise in the front end. I have rotated the tires, no change. jacked up and checked for any free play in both sides, nothing that i could feel. While still in the air with car in drive the noise is there and only changes with the speed of the wheels or vehicle speed. Don't think it is related to engine or trans cause the sound does not change with the rpm only wheel speed. The sound is not a clunking sound that I would think a bad cv joint but like the sound of big mud tires on a truck! Could it be a hub assembly going bad and not have any noticeable looseness? Any thought or help would be appreciated.
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Well I've got the fairng loose. I'm going to adjust the steering bearing, move the forks up. It's such a big job (to me anyhow) I think I'll change over to polk 401's on the speakers while it's open. Is there anything else I should do while it's open? I'm thinking I"ll do away with the bar extenstion. I hate the way it's hits the key guard.
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Thinking about getting a trailer to haul the '07 RSV on longer trips...in the next couple of years I plan to have it triked it out (the bike...not the trailer) with the Hannigan kit. I, therefore want to get a trailer for now...and after it makes the change to trike. I would appreciate knowing the overall length and width of the Hannigan that some of you have done. Thanks in advance for any info.
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Anybody see any major change?
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It was brought up in the "Request for Features" area that events listed on the calendar get lost among all the members birthdays. I am experimenting with the calendar and have removed birthday listings from it. Do any of you use the calendar to see who is having a birthday? The birthdays are listed at the bottom of the forum and I figure that most people use that listing and not the calendar. It does really clean up the calendar and makes it much easier to spot our events but if the majority of you prefer it the other way, I can quickly change it back to the way it was. As always, opinions are welcome.
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fluid in my clutch is dark. DO I need to change it?
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I searched, but couldn't really find a spot to post this. If it belongs elsewhere, please move. Every time I've built or restored a vehicle, I always created a build thread on a appropriate forum to exhibit where the project started, show progress, get ideas from others, and keep track of what has been done. Since I plan on a partial tear down/restoration this winter, I guess it's time to do it again. I bought this 1988 VR a little over a week ago, and I am quickly falling in love with it. I've ridden it about a half dozen times, for about 300 miles or a little more. She didn't want to idle without being half choked when I picked her up, but adding 6 oz of Sea Foam to a 3/4 full tank seems to have mostly solved that. It will idle all day without any choke after it has warmed to operating temperature now. It's super comfortable and is perfect for riding 2-up with my 13 year old son. Not bad at all for $2500. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/001.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/003.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/002.jpg So, it's a 22 year old bike, and it's in pretty good shape, with only 48,000 miles on the clock, but it has some issues. I plan on the usual routine maintenance, plus a little extra since I don't know the service history of the bike. I am going to add some Sea Foam to the crankcase just before I tear down so I can ride it a few miles before the oil and filter change. That way the concoction can work it's magic and free up some of the carbon that's no doubt trapped in the valve train. I'll do a oil and filter change, likely using dino oil and a factory filter. I am leery of using synthetic, or a synthetic blend in a engine that old. I have seen it "eat" seals inside older engines on 4x4's in the past, so I can only suspect that it will do the same to a bike. I also am a firm believer in sticking with factory parts that were designed specifically to work with a particular machine. I know it likely doesn't make a huge difference, but I'm a (former) A&P mechanic, and old habits are hard to break. I am also going to change the final drive oil. I think I remember reading that there should be zerks added to the shaft, and other locations on this model. If that is the case, I will do this as well. I've got a new set of NGK DPR8EA9's out in the garage for it, and I am going to attempt finding a new set of factory plug wires. If I can't find them, I'll make a set of 7mm's. It will get a new fuel filter installed, and I will inspect the carb boots for cracks and leaks. Since it is idling fairly good on its own now, I am hesitant to tear the carbs apart and rebuild them. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right? Then again, since it will be stripped it would be the best time to do this job. I'll decide when I get to that point. I will adjust the idle speed, though. It seems a tad low at 900 RPM, but I have a manual on order and will see what the specs are. When I got the bike home, I took a long and detailed look at the bike. This is when I noticed the left fork seal deterioration and leakage. This will be corrected with new fork seals, factory I hope. While I have them taken down, I will go ahead and install some progressive springs and change the oil. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/013.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/012.jpg On the initial ride home, the bike wanted to "walk" at slow speeds, and I noticed the handlebars are canted very slightly to the left. I have since read that there are a few possible causes and corrections for the walking condition. I will explore these issues and correct them. The brakes feel pretty mushy on the bike, and the rotors are pretty worn. I will replace the rotors and pads, and then change the brake fluid and bleed the system. That should correct this. It has a set of Elite II's on it now. I have no idea how old they are, or how many miles they have on them, but they have some severe cupping. Especially the back. I don't have any pics of them, but I will try to get some once I have them off the bike. I will replace both tires, but I haven't decided with what just yet. I like Dunlops, and I have heard good stuff about Avons. I have run several sets of Bridgestone Battlax tires with very good results, but this bike isn't really that aggressive. I am really interested in some wide whitewalls, but I have no idea what they would look like on a first gen VR. If anybody is running them, please send me a pic. That pretty much covers the mechanical issues. While I have the bike apart I plan on changing the cooling hoses and flushing the system. I can't think of anything else mechanically. If you guys see something I missed, please let me know. All of the electronics (radio, cassette, intercom, CB, CLASS) still work perfectly. They are dirty and need some cleaning, but I don't plan on any major work or upgrades here. I do plan on installing some new speakers, and possibly trying to add some rear speakers as well. I am partial to Clarion, but will probably go with some Pioneers or the like to save a bit of money. The dash will need a good cleaning, too. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/014.jpg On the cosmetic side, there are the usual small cracks all over the fairings and luggage. There is nothing too serious, but it needs attention. The bike had been dropped on the left side, which caused a crack in the upper fairing. It was patched up and had touch up paint applied, but it still looks rough. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/010.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/009.jpg I have already bought wetsanding paper from 1500 up to 3000, and both colors of touch up paint. Once I have the all the plastics off, I will sand everything down that needs it and then touch it up and re-sand. Then I'll do the old three step polishing method on everything; rubbing compound, polishing compound, hard shell wax. After that I'll clean and detail the engine and frame as best I can. Then I'll reinstall everything. The vent on the left side mid fairing is missing some louvers, and the chrome trim at the bottom of the saddlebags is cracked. The back sides of both mirrors are scratched up, and the right one is pretty loose, too. I hope to just replace these pieces. If I can't locate them I will figure something else out. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/008.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/007.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/006.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/011.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/rentalguy1/1988%20Venture%20Royale/005.jpg The windshield is a bit crazed, and has two small but fairly deep scratches. I will attempt lightly sanding the scratches with crocus cloth. This is a fix that I have done several times on helicopter windscreens, but the results have been mixed. I would prefer to have the scratches rather than making it worse by trying to fix it. After that, I will use plastic polish to clean and get rid if the crazing. That's all I have for now. It will take all winter to get this accomplished, but that's the fun of it. I know it will still be a 22 year old bike, but I hope it will run and look good for it's age. I have seen a few other ideas on the site that I will likely incorporate into this build, such as a light in the trunk, carpet inside the luggage, and adding a set of driving lights. I'm sure I will find more things to do before it's all done. If you all have any other ideas, please let me know. -
Well, we all know the rules. What happens at a VentureRider event stays at the VentureRider event. However, as with every rule, there is an exception. And at the 2010 Pork in the Pines, we had one of those exception moments. And that moment necessitated a site name change for one of our members. From here and henceforth Grandpagak (Gary), shall be known as WHOOMP. Those in attendance are more than familiar with the event prompting this change. So, I will leave it up to Gary to tell the story, if he so decides. WHOOMP, it's your choice. :rotfl: :rotfl:
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As a followup to at least one other thread, I thought I'd stir the pot a bit because I just don't see the point of "over maintenance". Specifications for the RSV say... change oil @ 8,000 miles (13,000 kilometers) and change final drive oil @ 16,000 miles (25,000 kilometers). So, that means every second oil change, change the final drive oil. Some folks here feel it necessary to change their oil sooner... 3,000 miles, 5,000 miles ... overkill in my book ... "old school mentality". Some folks here also feel that, since they are changing their oil, why not change the final drive oil as well. To me, that is a waste of time and money. At least one person stated that, when they changed their final drive fluid (at the same time as changing their oil), it was BLACK and smelled BURNT. Now, assuming their changing their oil at the 8,000 mile mark (or sooner), then to you I say "you have a problem with your final drive" because under normal circumstances (and even at 16,000 miles intervals) it should NOT be black and smell burnt. I last changed my final drive oil at 18,852 kilometers. (Yes it was done at the 1,000 km service). I changed it again today at 28,076 kilometers (a difference of 9224 km or 5,730 miles) and well before the recommended interval of 16,000 miles. Here is a picture of what it looks like. As you can see, the old oil is definately not black and I can tell you that is certainly does not smell burnt. In fact, it looks perfectly normal to me. [ATTACH]49615[/ATTACH] My point(s) here being... If you are changing your final drive oil at every oil change and that is at 8,000 miles or less, then you're wasting your time and money. Do you have your differential oil in your car/truck changed at every oil change??? (I think not) Then why not I ask...if you do it on your bike... why be different with your cage? If you're changing your final drive oil at every oil change and that is at 8,000 miles or less, and it is coming out smelling BURNT and is BLACK then something is WRONG and you need to find out what that is. Everyone is entitled to doing their "own thing" and I'm not discrediting anyone for that but quite frankly, I really don't see your reasoning for changing oil at 1/2 (or less than) the recommended intervals. Having said all of the above, I hereby admit to changing not only my bikes engine oil & filter but also my final drive oil at considerably less intervals than what is recommended. (WTF..???) :witch_brew:
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Can anyone direct me to instructions to change my own oil in my 2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe? I'm really tired of paying the dealer. Any recommendations on choosing the best oil? I'm in So. California and have 40,000 miles on my scoot. Bruce Lamarche -
After re-organizing the garage...........I realize I used 75w90 Valvoline synthetic - Limited slip gear oil. Almost 3000 on the stuff and no problems what so ever. Should I change or just let it ride?
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Just amazed that 5 th is so tall. Any upgrade in the road it's 4th or 3rd and 5th only level or downhill above 70. I know I can put the v max rear end in to change that. But the lack of hp and the tall gearing is making me think twice about keeping my 96 Royal Star. It's showroom and runs great but!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Could you change my screen name. I would like to use my old cb handle. If it is possible, please change it to Buckshot Formally Old Venture 8
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Awesome and for only $194,000 and change http://www.terrafugia.com/index.html
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Not being totally familiar with the RSV (Yet) I know that the bike needs a oil change, wont get into the oil stuff, but do need to know what a cross number or Filter number would be. The closest Stealer is 75 or so miles away. The previous owner didn't offer up to much except it needed an oil change, and had 3 Qt's of oil for me. Basically I forgot to ask what had been done when,,,. Being as I will have it down to the frame here in a couple of weeks I plan on doing plugs, and some wiring tidying up etc, checking things out. I have a shop manual in PDF that will help on most of what I need to look at and do forward of the seat. The back I have down pretty good....
