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Showing results for tags 'carbs'.
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Hello....I didn't know where to post these couple of Questions....so I chose here. I am thinking Of selling my '86 Kaw Vulcan 750 and purchasing a 99 - '04 RSV..... I love the Smoothness and reliability of the V-4 engine.....but I hate carbs.....so what kind of issues or problems have you folks had with your carbs. Are they pretty reliable? Do they stay in sync pretty well? Are parts for Mikuni 32's easy to get parts for? What about lowering options....The seat height is a little high for me....I am 5' 6". What other problem areas are there with the RSV. I am going to purchase one of these bikes next April. Thank you for any info that you may have for me.
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Is there any one in Minnesota that cloud help me change out the clutch fluid and synch my carbs? I don't have the thing to synch the carbs aslo if you can show me how to inspect the clutch that would be great.
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Hi Everyone - This is my first time here and I am from Woodbury, MN. Some guys on the Venture Rider's Facebook page told me there are some brilliant people here. Has anyone else had problems with their Royal Star shooting gas out of the carbs when it comes out of winter storage? I bought my 2006 RSTD brand new in 2008 and this has happened to me 2 times in 3 years! Last time it cost me $500 to have the carbs cleaned out. I followed the storage-prep instructions to a T. Very frustrating. What do I need to do to get it road-ready again. I'm not mechanically inclined and I am very disturbed at the thought of having to spend $500 for the 2nd time in 3 years to solve the problem. Thanks! Mike
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I have not started to look for the problem yet, but here are the symptoms. First off I have an 1985 royale with an 87 engine. Did the swap 4th of July weekend 2010 and the bike has run great. Now it starts and runs fine for cruising but when I get the rpms over 4500 it has no power. I used the carbs from the 1200 engine but with larger jets (same as the 1300 carbs would have). It has been running like this since I took it out this spring last year it ran fine. It seems like the timing is not advancing. Any suggestions would be great.
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im looking for a cross reference part number for my needle valves and seat seals for my 05 rstd... mikuni makes carbs for a lot of different bike manufactures in cluding harley. i cant get them through any yamaha srvc cntr, they all tell me they are 5 -7 days out and im leaving for yellow stone tomorrow ( supposed to ), and i live in michigan. my thinking is that another srvc cntr has the parts i need but i dont know what part # to ask for or what bike ( other than mine ) has these carbs. how do i get this fixed by tomorrow so i can leave at 3pm????
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#4 was about 2" hg off. Idles much better now:) Anyone in the Dubuque IA area needs a mercury manometer, look me up:12101:
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Did somebody knows where is the best place to get diaphragms and jets for the RS 1997 carbs? Thanks -
I am a less than a year member of this site(Its been Great). I will be leaving home tomorrow (If weather Permits), from Southeast Missouri and going to the Cincinnati area(to see my son). I have a 2006 rstd with 7800miles on it and would like some help syncing the carbs. I would gladly drive out of route to get this done and I would make it worth the time. Thanks if you can help.....The bike runs great, but I am having a little vibe in floor boards and tank. Thanks Larry:cool10::cool10:
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Last fall I picked up a Kawasaki KZ440A LTD off Craigslist for $200. The previous owner was tired of paying someone to keep fixing it and was frustrated at his inability to get it running. The clutch wasn’t working and it wouldn’t idle. The airbox was missing but all the electrical items worked (except the horn). He had just put new tires on it and had the brakes done – including having the fluid changed. I put it on a trailer and dragged it home to join my other project bikes in the workshop. While my Dad was here over Easter, we took apart the clutch and found the adjustment mechanism had been adjusted beyond its limit and a nut had fallen off. We put it back together and the clutch works great. I looked at the horn and one of the connectors had fallen off. Put it back on and it now works. Found an airbox (the LTD airbox is rare to find in one piece) at a boneyard in Oklahoma. It had the mounting tab broken off but still costs $70. A complete airbox was going for $140 minimum on Ebay, so I bought this one and repaired it. Got it to start, but it wouldn’t run worth a darn. Tore off the carbs and took them apart. They were fairly clean, but the diaphragms were ripped. Found a company that made and sold new diaphragms and purchased a set for $29 each (plus shipping - $67 total). Installed them, put the carbs back together and put them on the bike. Ran better, but not well. Downloaded a shop manual for the bike from a KZ forum and went to work tuning the carbs. Checked the float height (they were spot on), drilled out the covers over the mixture screws and set them to the proper setting. Set the valve gaps in the engine (they weren’t too far off). BTW, this is the easiest bike to set valve gaps I have ever seen – nice design. Set up an auxiliary fuel supply in a water bottle, hooked up the Morgan Carbtune, and sync’d the carbs (has to be done with the tank off). Not too far off, but enough to cause problems. When I went to put it all back together, I noticed the previous owner had not hooked up the vacuum hoses to the right locations and didn’t have one of the vacuum ports capped as it should be. Just happen to have a selection of rubber caps in the shop and found one that fit. Bought a new battery since the old one was 11 years old and didn’t like holding a charge. Took the fairing off an old Vulcan and put it on this bike. Fits great. Turned the rear shocks up to the maximum spring rate setting to handle my fat butt on it. Tightened the chain and lubed it. Once I got all this done, I put the tank back on, hit the starter and it fired right up. It now idles smoothly at 1200 RPM and runs beautifully up to at least 60 MPH. No plates on it so I was only running around the immediate area. This is going to be a fun bike for the boys to ride. A little small for me to travel any distance on, but just fine for pounding around town. Attached are some pictures. Notice the tires. They both still have the color stripe around the tread. Can’t be 100 miles on them. They’re worth what I paid for the bike. Total cost - $200 purchase, $70 airbox, $67 diaphragms, $5 sparkplugs, $50 battery, $4 sheet of lawn mower air cleaner material (cut to shape to fit the airbox), $4 oil filter, various hardware (replaced all removed Phillips head screws with cap head equivalents) about $10 = $410.00 1 down, 2 to go. Suzuki 750 is next.
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It's a great sunday here in central NY.Wife's working all day and it's raining Guess I'll tune the carb's again. ain't nothin else to do.
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I need you expertise! Could someone please direct me to a schematic that explains the workings of the first generation carbs. An exploded diagram for these particular models with an explanation would be helpful. I was hoping to find a thread with photos of a carb overhaul. I would like to understand a little bit more about what is going on. There are a lot of small holes and orifices that seem to serve similar roles. My current problem is as follows. I removed and cleaned the carbs and have cured my rough acceleration problem. Now, any adjustment to the pilot screw on just one carb makes no difference. Closing the pilot screw all the way on the other carbs causes the engine to stumble while any adjustment on this one carb makes no difference - the engine runs regardless of setting. I guess where I am a bit unsure is the role played by the other small orifices and their routing Thank you.
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Any one near Raleigh have the carb sync tool and wouldn't mind helping/showing me how to sync the carbs on a 08 venture. Let me know Thanks, Melvin
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Greetings. 1999 Venture with 38k miles has been sitting up for quite a while (just bought it). Just had carbs cleaned and now have oil and gas blowing out of right exhaust. All cylinders show approximately 120 psi of compression. Can this be caused by an intake problem? It seems this must be related to the recent removal of the carbs. Thanks for your time. Tommy
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I guess my rear exhaust headers are not supposed to glow, but they were yesterday. The plugs do not show signs of running particularly lean but there is some heat getting back there from somewhere. Currently the carbs are off for a full rebuild, and the front exhaust headers too, to get at the starter. I noticed that one of the headers was very loose in the collector, and this would probably be contributing to the "spitting" back through #1 and #4 carbs. I suspect the butterfly valve seals aren't helping much, the intake boots seem to be sound. Anyway ... I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this. I do know that some exhaust headers, on some bikes do have a "glowing" issue, but I didn't think that the Venture Royale had this ... er ... feature. Any thoughts?
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Purchased a 84 Venture that sat for two summers with sta-bil in the tank. The bike ran really rough, smoked, and wouldn't stay running unless the choke was on. I drained the carbs, ran some new gas through, put in new plugs, changed the and filter, and sync'd the carbs. The bike runs great... but its still smoking a little. It looks more white but it looks to have a blue tint also. I've only been up the street(1st, 2nd gear) and back so I havent ridden the bike anywhere. Where do I go from here? Thanks for any help.
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I was going thru some old hard drives tonight. I knew that I had not removed my carbs when I did mine in 2007. Here's the trick, you have to remove one of the wire guides to get the back valve cover off and part of the plumbing to get the front one off. As you can see in the pics the carbs are still mounted on the bike. So for those of you who don't want to remove the carbs take a look at the photos. -
:confused24:I rebuilt the carbs on my '88 Venture...there are 2 throttle cables attached to the carberator linkage..one has an adjustment on it and one doesn't...can anyone tell me which one goes to the outside of the bike?
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hey everybody i need some help please i have a 2003 midnight venture with 87000 kl on it and i am the original owner. it vibrates when i cranck it in 3,4,5 gear . now im pretty sure that it could be the u joint on it but some other buddys have a difference of opinion on this as they say my carbs need to be sinked. so lets take a poll carbs or u joint
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Is there anyone around South East Iowa that has some carb sinc tools that is willing to help out with my carbs? Thank You, Shaun
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The small vacumn lines used to sync carbs. I had two plugged and two with hoses. I synced the carbs and can't remember which was which. Does it matter? Thanks Richard
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I know there is quite a bit of info on this, but yesterday when I was out riding for the first time this season and on my new to me 2004 RSV, it popped and backfired on deceleration. The air filter is clean and I changed the fuel filter. I think tomorrow I will sync my carbs. Anyone have any suggestions on what else I could do that might possibly stop the popping and backfiring? It isn't bad, but it is still there. Thanks in advance Chris -
Ok don't shoot the messenger but: Looking for a way to clean carbs and ensure jets are clear without taking carbs off... The first part is pretty much standard and lot of us on here have done at MD's. Take tank and top center air box off. Drain carbs, open 4 drain screws then close. If you take fuel line off at center rear of carbs and spray full, this will effectively place cleaner in all your carbs. let sit 30 min. drain carbs, open drain screws. (leave open) ---part I would like to add--- Take diaphram(s) and needle slides out. Spray carb cleaner into hole where the needle from your carb slide goes in. It should be your high speed jet? Spray carb cleaner into small hole inside top of carb. It should be your pilot jet? Spray carb cleaner into hole at the "T" sections of your carbs will be your overflows. Close your drain screws. Am I missing something? Can anyone add or correct any assumptions I have just made? V7goose , skydoc_17 , freebird, anyone... -
Hey I just bought a 07 venture with 3200 miles and and have some popping, I carried it to a dealer and they want about $ 890.00 to clean the carbs/ replace "bowl" seals "needle jets" in short $ 500.00 in labor and $ 400.00 in parts.....
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So I finally took the carb tune out of the box (That i received two months ago)and took a dive into Synching the carbs so I got er all hooked up, got er started and well?, (I can say that my first gen 84 venture royale runs like a champ with an estimated 65000 miles on her and only running on 3?, well we'll just say 2 1/4 carbs. I can hardly wait to run on 4 carbs that are all synched together.) so back to the post, I didnt actually get to synch the carbs today because i am now going to have to rebuild at the very least one carb #1 and since IM there I might as well go ahead and do them all. I hook it all up and started it and found 1 running at 0 #2 running at around 8 and 3&4 running at 35 or so. Has anybody else found this before? and is there an easier fix for now before rebuilding the carbs? Also, does anyone have the part # for the VMAX floats that work in the first genner carbs? Can I just say that I love my royale...... :225:Thank you all for your time. Mike
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I'm planning to check the float measurements on my 08 RSV in a couple of weeks. What are my carb-related opportunities while I have the carbs off of the bike? Suggestions or comments are always welcomed!
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