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Hello All, First I have searched to no avail for Gen II carb diaphragm replacement vendors or fixes. Found the thread to spray on rubber stuff:think: for a temp fix. While taking apart carbs on my 99 RSV to clean today, I may have put the carb slider cap on a TAD wrong, to say the diaphragm was pinched and a small hole is now in the material at the bend where it seats on carb body. It may have already been there, not for sure.... ANYWAY I need one. Help? Man those carbs were dirty..... Thank you in advance...Looking for new one. Directions? Also, the fuel mixture screws are obviously not set the same. Inside the throat of the carb body where the screw (or hole) is present, One is thru enough to cut yourself on, while the others are barely or not at all... I am not a carb expert. Directions to setting these properly? Thanks, James:bowdown: -
I have an 86 that I just bought and it will not start. It has to be a fuel issue, it will start with starting fluid or a little gas poured in the carbs. The fuel pump is working and gas is getting to the carbs (line from pump removed key turned on). It has started once and ran for about a minute, really smooth, and quit. Is there something that would cause the fuel pump to stop or just dirty carbs? BTW did swap in a known good pump and same story.
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Is there a way to adjust the choke on 96 Royal Star? Mine looks to be closing the right carbs but not all the way on the side carbs. I am talking about the little plunger that the linkage bar hooks over. I actually need a new choke handle cause mine is busted.
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Put carbs back on bike after removal for exterior cleaning. I did not go into carbs but did seperate the bank. After putting back on bike I noticed my throttle was slow to come back. I adjusted cables and the same thing. Both carb #1 and #2 I noticed that the springs connecting the throttle wheel and connecting the linkage on #2 where not tight. I am pretty sure that is my issue. Now...I dont know why or how they are loose. This might be a stupid question but is this associated with the TPS sensor by any chance. I did not remove the TPS nore bracket connected to #2. I am confused and I am sure I am going to have to remove the bank again but I would like some info on what I need to do. Thanks again!!!
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Turns out I was being cheap and stupid. I tripped over my ego and landed with, well you know. Anyway, I take great pride in the fact that I think I am a pretty good mechanic, unfortunately, there comes a time when you realize the thinking part of that statement can be your undoing. I have had my Royal Star for 17 years and the last 10 have done all my own work. I can pull those carbs off with my eyes closed, well at least that part is true. It is what happens after you get em off that is the problem. I diagnose the problem and fix whatever is wrong and put em back together, built a lot of my own test gadgets and sync tool, man am I smart! I save tons of money too! So after all this time, seems the bike and I are growing old, why a month ago I embarrassed myself at a Patriot Guard ride. I was in formation next to a trike and we came to an idle crawl. I found myself doing the "bike weave" with the front tire and pulling the clutch in more than it was out trying to ride at a complete idle. I kept having to put my feet down and as my face was getting a little more crimson in color and by God I was jealous of the guy on the trike and thinking maybe it was time to retire the old girl cause I could hardly do this anymore. Well, I went home, let the bike sit for a couple of weeks, then thought I would go for a ride. The bike had taken to leaking a little fuel if I left it sit for awhile but the leak would stop after it got warmed up. DANG ETHANOL! I knew that crap must be drying out the rubber! So I thought, the float needles are rubber and they are the only thing that would make the fuel run out because I had already adjusted the floats and being the ace mechanic that I am this must be it. I ordered the needles, pulled the carbs and replaced them, put it all back together and fired it up. Now I have a leak at one of the float bowls, needs a new o-ring, ordered the o-ring. pulled off the carbs, replaced the O-ring and put everything back together and fired it up, now I have popping, could not figure this out so guessed I must have put something together wrong, pulled the carbs off again, could not find anything wrong so I did all the tests, I find that the float level will not remain the same over time, diagnosed to a bad o-ring on the float seat assembly. Ordered them, replaced them, put everything back together and fired it up..... another float bowl o-ring is leaking....Now at this point it has been three months since the PGR ride and those carbs have been off more than granny's nightgown. I give up and order all new parts for the carbs, because by now I have a mismatched bunch of parts that have been replaced at all kinds of different times, bear in mind that this is how I have been doing the maintenance over the years. The parts were not all that expensive, a few hundred bucks when purchased all together. I rebuilt the carbs, did all the adjustments, fired em up, synced and low and behold, I am not OLD, I can ride at idle. Not only that, but my gas mileage has improved by over 10 mpg, I can turn tighter and starts at lights are almost night and day different. If you have been riding the same bike, and it seems like you are growing old together, rethink it! I did not notice the degradation in performance over time but after rebuilding it the sound is so different, I am ashamed that I did not notice any of those things. I was ready to cash it in. So for all you out there that any of this sounds familiar, take it from a newly humbled idiot. All this time I thought I was being frugal and smart, turns out, I was being cheap and stupid! Old dogs really can learn, too bad it took so long! Anybody wants to know how to get the carbs off or back on in 6 1/2 minutes let me know.
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So...on my way into work this morning, I was accelerating (harder than normal in 3rd gear) to merge onto the highway. The engine responded quite well to the twist...but as it started to wind up, the engine appeared to gain more power...almost like another couple of carb jets opened up...the same kind of feeling you get when you accelerate faster than you let the clutch out. So that begs the question...WTH? The carbs are synch'd, and adjusted approx 3.5 turns out. Other than the above, the bike is running pretty good. Any suggestions on what to check? Sure seems like a carb / fuel delivery anomaly. :confused24:
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Newbie with carb question
ncnative posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hello everyone! I am a proud new owner of a 1997 Tour Deluxe. Clean bike with only 24,000 miles. Previous owner had not ridden the bike in a couple years and according to him he was having carbs issues when he decided to sell it. Told me he had a mechanic come to his home, pull and clean the carbs?? The bike did start easily when I went to check it out, due to the weather, time of day and not being familiar with the area I did not take it for a test ride. I did ride it onto the trailer to bring it home. Now the bike will start and run with full choke, no matter how long I let it warm up it will not run without full choke. Driving down my local rural road it will come up to speed, but does not run smoothly and has some decel popping, not sure how much of this popping is caused by having the choke on? I have some motorcycle carb experience, I have removed and cleaned the carbs on numerous 1100 Honda Shadows and 1100 V Stars, but I have never done anything on a 4 cylinder bike. 1) how hard is it to pull the carbs on this bike 2) any tricks I should know that will save me time and headache 3) anything I should watch out for when pulling the carbs..like springs or screws and such that can pop off or fall out 4) last but now least....Do I really need to pull the carbs?? -
Newbie with carb question
ncnative posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hello everyone! I am a proud new owner of a 1997 Tour Deluxe. Clean bike with only 24,000 miles. Previous owner had not ridden the bike in a couple years and according to him he was having carbs issues when he decided to sell it. Told me he had a mechanic come to his home, pull and clean the carbs?? The bike did start easily when I went to check it out, due to the weather, time of day and not being familiar with the area I did not take it for a test ride. I did ride it onto the trailer to bring it home. Now the bike will start and run with full choke, no matter how long I let it warm up it will not run without full choke. Driving down my local rural road it will come up to speed, but does not run smoothly and has some decel popping, not sure how much of this popping is caused by having the choke on? I have some motorcycle carb experience, I have removed and cleaned the carbs on numerous 1100 Honda Shadows and 1100 V Stars, but I have never done anything on a 4 cylinder bike. 1) how hard is it to pull the carbs on this bike 2) any tricks I should know that will save me time and headache 3) anything I should watch out for when pulling the carbs..like springs or screws and such that can pop off or fall out 4) last but now least....Do I really need to pull the carbs?? -
I was given a 97 royal star very recently that has less than 500 miles on it, though it hasnt been ran in about ten years. Its been sitting in a garage and shows it. This is the first time I have ever touched a motorcycle, though I have done a good amount of work on cars. My main concern right now is getting the bike running. When I turn the bike on before I hit the start switch I get fuel pouring out of the overflow tubes. From what I have read its pretty obvious that I need to pull the carbs and clean them, though with there being four of them the task is a little daunting with syncing and everything else involved. I know that seafoam wont work if I cant get a flow through the carbs. Here is what I am asking: 1. Is there a way to clean the carbs out without removing them? 2. Are the carbs the culprit for these symptoms? 3. How do you sync the carbs once they are all clean and back in? 4. What else should I be replacing? ( plugs, oil, oil filter, where is fuel filter?) 5. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone knows a great way to get rid of pitting thatd be awesome. Right now Im using fine steel wool and a turtle wax chrome polish and rust remover, but there are still tiny spots that I am not sure if they will come off at all. Thanks -
I have been having trouble getting the idle mixture set on my 83VR. I have the airbox off now and noticed there is fuel dripping from the slide needle on 3 of them when the engine is running. Thought to myself that the float level was too high so I put a clear tube on the drain to check. Supprising all of them are right on, 14mm below the carb centerline. The carbs were cleaned last winter and all gaskets were replaced even the jet block plugs. Before I remove them and take them apart I just wanted some input on what might be causing this.
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Seems like there are ALOT of carb issue threads, so I may as well add one more. I've been wrking on my 83 which supposedly ran just fine a couple of years ago. I saved the bike from the scrap yard due to transmission issues. I upgraded to a 1300 trans and now trying to get the bike running. The carbs ended up being really really dirty, after going thru them a couple of times, the bike runs now, but I'm having an issue with a bad delay when I give it throttle coming off of idle, and then a very slow drop from 2500 rpm back down to idle. The carbs are really nice and clean inside, every passage seems very clear now. I did not mess with float levels, nor did I check them. I have sync'd the carbs using a carb stick and that went well. I did not replace anything, not even the diaphraghms because they look to be in excellent condition. The slides all dance about the same when the bike is running. No vacuum leaks at all that I can find. I've sprayed starting fluid around the intake boots and bottoms of the carbs and no leaks. Any ideas of what to look for next?
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Okay so here's what happened: Occasionally, my bike drops a cylinder or two, both on the right side, for no apparent reason. My cute boyfriend, who knows what he's doing, found that the problem was not ignition related and decided to pull the carbs out and clean them up. The carbs were filthy throughout, but what was unusual was that he found that the rear carbs both had the 122.5 jets installed, but the fronts had two different jets, a 117.5 and the other which was visually a different size (couldn't READ the numbers.) Not having any idea why they would be different, but also not having any good reason to wait on an answer to this question (the bike ran fine, aside from the occasional loss of the right side cylinder) he put it all back together and Carbtuned them and the bike runs great. Hasn't been back on the road long enough to discern whether or not the arbitrary loss of cylinder(s) has been cured. But, herein lies the question: WHY WOULD THERE BE 2 DIFFERENT JETS IN THE FRONT CARBS? We (he) knows why the jets are different from front to rear, but this is the first time he's ever seen a set of carbs with 2 the same jets in the rear and 2 TOTALLY different jets in the front. Has anyone else seen this before?
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So I thought I had it licked but back to the drawing board I guess. My 85 is kinda new to me. I bought it awhile ago but until the summer I just sat and waited for my attention. PO needed money and it was to good a deal. I have done alot of work thus far, from draining the gas tank to replacing the fuel lines and filter and ran a can of sea foam thru. After the filter was changed it seemed to run better but today I went for a good 200km ride and its not fixed. I have not opened the carbs yet. I was hoping to avoid that, seafoam has worked on other bikes I have owned in the past.....I believe the bike sat for 2 years ish before I got it. On the road it pulls ok up to 4000rpm then dies....like its running on pilot jets. Check the plugs and they are black? To much fuel? New air filter. The bike starts and idles perfect. Just won't pull on the road, I mean these bike were known to pull.....hell its a vmax motor....ideas as to why it would run aok up to 4000rpm and then die's out....hard to stay at 100kms/hr in 5th?? My Buell would go 100 in 1st/2nd!! HELP! Any, even bad imput is ok with me:) Does someone in Ontario excell at carbs? My budget is kinda tight and it seems to be a big job if the carbs need to come out according to my searches on the site. Thanks a bunch!!
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Can anyone tell me if and how much the cv slides should bounce while the engine is running? If I blip the throttle just a bit, they move quite a bit. Does this indicate a problem? Starting to take the carbs out and apart and man they are dirty!
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I have a vibration from my motor between 1-3k rpms, its not real bad but I can fell it thru my seat and floorboards. The carbs have been synced and the valves have been adjusted. any ideas?
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Hi All, New Member here and learning a lot. I have 2002 Midnight Venture with less than 8000 miles. She still has the original tires. Below is a picture. Lately she has been been doing nothing much beyond sitting in the garage collecting cobwebs. At one point several months ago I brought a new battery and went to start it up. It did not start and there was fuel leaking from the carb overflows. I am in SW Florida and and we have 10% ethanol in our gas and I'm figuring that did me in. Thanks to the great article from Freebird: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7830 I got the carbs off and cleaned up. Now the bike runs great and idles great. I had them on and off about 8 times before I finally got it right. On the last attempt I looked through one of the pilot jets and realized the tiny pinhole was a bit smaller than the rest. No amount of blowing would clear it. I have a carb cleaning tool that has wires in various diameters. I poked the smallest one through a good pilot jet and felt no resistance. I then poked it through the one with the smaller pinhole and felt resistance. I pushed it through and then blew it out again. I could *see* some crud fly out of it. After that it finally idled OK. Only issue is that I somehow ended up with a left over screw that I *think* is from the bike. Probably from the area around the middle of the bike because I also replaced the fuel filter and checked out the fuel pump which turned out to be OK. There is a picture of the screw. It is a philips head and about 3/4 inch long with a washer. If anybody recognizes it and knows where it goes, I would appreciate it if you could let me know. Since I got so much from this forum already, I would like to contribute something. One of the warnings in dealing with these carbs is to not lose the tiny O-Ring in the edge of the bodies that gets exposed when you remove the diaphragms. Of course I lost one - perhaps it was never there. At any rate, I had a set of O-rings I picked up a while ago from Harbor Freight to fix a leaky hand held sprayer. The smallest in this set worked pretty well in the carb and I like I said, the bike is running real sweet now. There are some pics showing the O-ring set and the label. Your biggest problem will be what to do with the other 381 o-rings in the set. I also found that using plastic cups to protect the intake while the carbs were off worked pretty well. Thanks again Freebird for the great article. I probably would not even have tried this without it as a guide. After about the 4th time taking them on and off, I was able to do it in about 10 minutes. First time is always hardest!
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Anyone have a good step by step procedure on how to swap an MKII carb. My 89 carbs are acting up and would like to put the carbs from my wrecked 91 in. Then I'll rebuild the 89 carb. -
I took the air cleaner off today looking for a gas smell. The seal on #1 carb is not leaking (another thread covers epoxy sealing a small carb leak) and I found no gas anywhere. Started the Beast and watched for anything. #1 and #2 carbs want to puff a little white smoke (vapor?) when the throttle is twisted moderately hard from idle. All four slides are slightly open (1/4") when the engine is not running (is this normal?). There is wet oil on the tops of #1 and #2 carbs. I can see where it is coming out of the air breather and working its way through the air cleaner boots. I put a small air filter (see photo) inside the air box to try and slow this down. OK all you experts . . . Why does my VR smell like gas?
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So I started looking for my proverbial gas smell on my 89. Couldn't find anything wet or seeping. Decided to sync the carbs. I also checked the vacuum caps that I had to remove to hook up the sync hoses. I checked them by sucking on them and letting them stick to my lip. The last one I checked would not create suction. I could not find a crack, or leak, but it would not create suction. So, I replaced it with one off of the 87. after syncing and the new cap, boy...it runs smooth. Here is the question: When syncing the 89, the Carbtune reading was close to 32 on the scale. Is there a level/reading that it should be ? What/how is that adjusted ? I was able to balance the carbs and the sides. I was also playing with my 87 and even though I still have major carb issues on that one, The reading was around 20 on the scale. Now I know that the 87 could, and probably is not an accurate reading due to the carb issues, but it got me thinking about the readings. -
Just heard that State Route #130, a toll road between San Antonio and Austin, TX, are changing the speed limit to 85 mph! Now that should be a good way to clean out your carbs! Yama Mama:225::225:
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I finally got home from over the pond and decided with all the warm dry weather to get the 1st gen out. Guess what? it wouldn't run without the choke on. If I tried to rev it up it just died. Bit of history, 86 Venture Royale. 36,000 miles, stock with the exceptions of upgraded fuse block, I put the aftermarket CDI box on it (bought through Dingy). Progressive springs, fork brace. After all the mods last year, I rode it for 18 miles and it ran great. I drained the carbs, put stabil in the gas and it sat until today. I drained the old gas out of the tank and put new in replaced the fuel filter, and tried to fire it up it wouldnt run without the choke on. Today I pulled the carbs, and cleaned them fully, I did find one of the little plugs in the carb on the bottom of the main jet block kind of looking mushy. ( they were new a year ago with a full carb overhaul. (Done by a carb re-builder) I replaced it with a new one from a kit I had left over. I tried it again and the same thing. Pulled the carbs again and made sure everything was good. The diaphrams are new last year, I replaced the plugs, checked for vacuum leaks and bad plug wires didn't find anything wrong. It still wont run without full choke. I even put the known good stock CDI box on and tried it. Still don't work. I am out of ideas to find the problem. I dont use the gas with the ethonol in it. can anyone help? rjjammer -
i purchased a Carbtune about two years ago and shortly thereafter sync'd my carb. i thought it wouldn't hurt to re-sync, so i hooked up the Carbtune and lo and behold all four bars were within a gnat behind of each other. to those who are more familiar with syncing, my question - "is it normal for the carbs to stay synchronized"? btw the bike has been running great and i don't really have any complaints after 36k miles.
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MOTORCYCLE CARB BALANCER Amazingly simple yet incredibly accurate Motorcycle Carb Balancer. This incredibly simple device will synch your bikes carbs like no other balancer with 'pinpoint accuracy" for a fraction of the cost of some balancers. Certain tradesmen tools rely on nature to help find a certain accuracy, for example a plumb line and bob will always show a true vertical line. A spirit level cannot lie. This carb balancer uses gravity in a similar manner to show a true centre, this is why it is so accurate. Other balancers costing far more often compare the vacuum readings of the different carbs with each other and can sometimes be difficult to decipher, this carb balancer is different, as it compares the vacuum readings with a known truthful centre, namely 'gravity." Inside the balancer are two tiny balls, one of these balls has the sole job of telling you nature's centre via gravity, the other ball is influenced by the vacuums taken from two carbs at any one time. If the two carbs are working in harmony the two balls will align, if not the lower ball will move to one side. Simply turn the screw on you bike's carbs to align the two balls and synch the carbs, its as easy as that! The Carb Balancer can synchronise 2,3 and four cylinder bikes. Start with the base cylinder and any other carb, then subsequent carbs. The base cylinder is the carb with the throttle stop/tick over screw. Repeat the process to super synch your carbs.If your carbs are badly out of synch your engine will be under terrific extra strain as your pistons are working against each other, and not with each other, sapping vital power and fuel. Synchronise your carbs to perfection and you may notice an amazing improvement in power and performance, just look at some of the feedback given for this amazing tool under our feedback.Use the tool time and time again to keep your bike in tune . This quality tool is neat and compact it weighs only 100gms and you can even keep it on your bike when you go touring.
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I stumbled across a couple of vacum gauges I had in the drawer. If I was to use these to sync up the carbs do I do the left 2 carbs together, then the right 2 and then connect the gauges to say the front left and front right and match them up. That is what I get from the sync article I read here, if I break it down right.
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My 2004 RSMV has developed a fluctuating idle, which seems to get worse the warmer the engine gets. It surges 800-1200 on the tach, and up to about 1500 rpm, then smooths out. I'm due for a valve adjustment and am planning to do that soon, but this happened suddenly, in the middle of a ride. I didn't start gradually and get worse. I pulled the carbs and removed the bowls and sprayed everything I could get to with carb cleaner, checked the float levels (all were good) and changed the fuel filter. I didn't split the carbs or completely tear them down yet. Air filters are fine, and I'll probably do plugs just to rule them out. I'm currently running some B12 thru it, and it seems a little better, but it's still there. Hoping this rings a bell for someone. I'm going to do a complete tear down on the carbs when I do the valves, and re sync if no one has any other ideas. Thanks for the help. Jon
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