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Showing results for tags 'carbs'.
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Brakes: Hey guys, I’m brand new to Ventures and of limited mechanical ability, but I need to rebuild my calipers. I just bought a 1987 Venture in good condition except that the last time they parked it (3 years ago), they lost their back brakes on the ride home. Sure enough, when I went to look at the bike, there had been evidence of a leaky front caliper. Thanks to another thread, I learned about the linked braking. So I was planning on rebuilding the rear and left front calipers. But the right front caliper actually looked like it was more likely to be the culprit. The leak puddled on the right side of the bottom of the rim but I don’t remember if the wheel had been angled such that the leak might have crossed through the spokes from the left caliper. Either way, the hand brake works and the pedal does not. Do the front and rear caliper rebuild kits have the same part number? Is there a known good source for the kits? What is considered a good price on these? I think I found kits to rebuild all three(no pistons) for around $100. A bit pricey for some rubber seals and a couple of pins, so that seems about right. Carbs: I siphoned out the 3-year-old gas and have been running Seafoam (about 4 tanks so far) through it. The bike starts, warm or cold, with the choke on. Once warm, I can bring the choke back 1/2 way, but that’s it. I can get it to idle between 800-1200 rpm, but can’t keep it running with the choke off. Even idling (with 1/2 choke), I have to give the throttle a little feather before taking off or maneuvering at parking lot speeds. I know very little about carburetors. Should I start by trying to adjust the idle? Is balancing the carbs something I can do myself? Thanks for the help. -
Greeting to all here, I'm a newbie to the Venture scene but I have ridden for about 40 years and I'm a life-long Yamaha fan (FJ1200, 550 Vision, FJR1300, FJ09, among others) and I do most of my own work. I have been working on this new project bike I just picked up, a pretty clean 83 Venture with a VMax (!) motor of unknown vintage, transplanted by the father of the previous owner, that doesn't seem to want to make power at large throttle openings. I'm suspecting the carbs but I haven't gotten into them yet. The bike came to me without an airbox cover so I got off of Ebay and it anything, adding the cover made it worse. It runs OK at part throttle but when you open it up over 4000 RPM and expect that VMAX thing to start happening it just doesn't, and it starts to misfire like it's lean. It wont pull hard or really at all at large throttle openings. I think the carbs are from the Venture but I cannot be sure. I don't know if the bike was rejetted after the transplant, and I'm not sure if the engine has Vmax or Venture cams in it. I did get a big box of valve shims and lifter tools with the bike. Also I just refilled the tank for the first time and I got 100 miles out of 4 gallons of gas. Not great but I'm unsure if this points to something or not. So if I gather from all the searching I have done in the forum, spanning a couple decades, that the CV diaphragms tend to go bad and that fits the lean misfire thing if they are leaking and aren't letting the needle rise out of the jet making it lean. My forum search is not yet complete but if anyone has the link to where the latest/best source for the best carb kits and diaphragms I would be grateful. I will be pulling the airbox tomorrow to try to assess the state of the slides and diaphragms before tearing the carbs off. I'm also open to this being an ignition problem but it sure does feel like carburation. If there is something I've missed that happens to these bikes that causes this problem I could sure use that news too. After I get this resolved it will be time to do something about those linked brakes. Wow what a bad idea, at least as it is now on this bike. I already have all the parts (forks, R1 brakes, etc) for that except the lines. But I have to make this thing GO better before I worry about making it STOP. -
Well, just got my 83 First gen back from a local shop and the whole ride home I've been sick to my stomach. I took it in for oil change, spedo replacement, and to synch the carbs. He said that the carbs are mechanically synced and that wouldn't be necessary. He did say he adjusted the screws to smooth it out. Boy now I'm messed up. This thing went from running 80% good to 45% good. Feels like it is missing or even possibly fouled out. I can't take it back till Monday but I feel like I messed up by allowing them to work on this carb. I described the synch tool with the four liquid levels but apparently that didn't work. I hindsight I should of ordered the new tci that Dingy sells. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how I can communicate to this shop on Monday and if there is anyone in the southwest Missouri area that I can hire to get the carbs back right. Trying to be patient. I'll look in the morning to see if something came unplugged or what but I pulled it out of the shop like this. On top of that they had it for a week and a half. Thanks. P.s. It has ran great for several years now but always felt like it was only on 3 cylinders after doing the cold start test with the occasional back fire through the carb. But even the. It ran better than this. I was getting about 26mpg. So in hindsight it might just be the tci.
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On my previous bike I played with jetting a lot. In the end, I had more power (not verified with factual evidence) but I lost about five mpg. I have read comments here about carb mods and I am very hesitant to try anything for fear I might not be pleased with the results. Does anyone have dyno runs or other data regarding changes to carbs or air intake?
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Just wanted to let everyone know about Ivans jet kits available online installed in my venture-actually uses smaller main jets and finally got my carbs synced right and it has more power and is smoother
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Having recently gotten a bike to rehab that has set awhile I got around to really digging in to it today. Removed the tank and gave it a quart of kerosene to rinse it out. The hoses are a bit checked so they where replaced. Makes sense to at least take off the float bowls and assess whether or not to take it down further. The clamps on the intake boots are loose and the carbs are still a bit snug. The manual makes it sound as if you can remove the carbs right off the boots but I'm a big guy with a large set of easy outs to prove my ability to snap stuff off. Can these be pried up or should I take the boots off right at the head? The only reason I ask is a previous hack covered the boots in some kind of epoxy, I'm guessing they where either split or checked. The bolts are covered and if need be I'll chip away to get them off, just not sure if I need to do it.
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I recently started a restoration on an 85 Vmax for my son. The bike has only 11K miles on it but has been sitting since 1999. So far most everything has been in pretty good shape, considering the lengthy down time. The carbs, however are history. I am having a difficult time finding a set of carbs for it that are not way out of his price range, but I can find first gen Venture carbs fairly reasonable. Would these fit on the vmax? I'm sure if they do, there would be some loss in performance, but would they suffice until he can find OE carbs.
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Does anyone have a carb sync tool I could borrow or possibly buy? I took the carbs off the bike to do the valve adjustment and I cleaned up the carbs some too. When i got them back on and the bike running it pops out of the right pipe. When i take the little rubber boot off of the sync nipple it'll rev up momentarily but there really is no change. Took a little Brake parts cleaner and sprayeed it in the hole and she smoked a little but never idled up or down. I dont trust any of the shops in my town and I know i need the carbs synced. I'm just hoping it'll take care of the problem
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Puc, Here are a few pics of my '77 MGB i've owned for around 3 yrs. Since these pics i've lowered the car some and done some exhaust work. Did a complete engine rebuild, SU carbs and all suspension pieces approx. 10K miles ago. This is what is replacing our totaled '07 RSTD.
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I have questions as to why my 88 venture will not start, it cranks, backfires and pops but not running. This is the same bike that the carbs were just rebuilt, it ran well Saturday but not today, any known fixes.
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Carb problem-not spraying gas.
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I fixed the starter clutch and started the bike with some difficult at half throttle so I put 6 ounce of redline in the tank. Now it will not start (hit) at all. Checked gas flow and it is working good and cleaned and checked firing of the plugs, Good. When I spray starter fluid in the carbs direct, it runs with the starter fluid and quits. I see no gas spray out of the carbs at all. -
I just picked up an 85 with carbs removed. I am not sure if i have all the hoses correctly routed and the book is no help. I also need some help on how to best press the carb bodies back onto the boots by myself in 40 degree weather. I see only 3 hoses on the upper section coming from under the seat that i believe should connect to the 4 carb air vents on the carb bowls that are on a 45 degree angle. I do have the 4 little drain hoses on the bottom. I also have the canister on the left side that is not completely connected. Any help with all these hoses would be appreciated I have worked many bikes but do not see how i can easily press these carbs back into place. Any suggestions besides brute force? -
Hello All, Quick question and background. Son rides a valkyrie. We just went thru all 6 carbs and reinstalled... REAL pita to reinstall airbox runners onto top of carbs. We reinstalled and cranked up and have a low idle issues that we believe to be an air leak, further investigation tomorrow. Now for the question, one of his forum buddies we visited had a fuel "bag/cell" hanging from the ceiling with a hose and pinch clamp to run bike without the tank on... Great idea huh. Have any of you made one and if so, out of what with what??? Wanting to make one tomorrow that I will use also on RSV when finished. (torn apart now) Give me ideas... hose, check, clamp, check, bottle.... woops. I need a fuel resistant IV bag! Ideas anyone?:think: thanks for the help, James:biker:
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i made a short video when i was setting and checking the float levels on a set of 28mm carbs and wrote of how i did it for some of the guys on delphi forum and thought i would post it here too.there's a way i do it and it has worked out good on the last several sets im have fixed for others and redid mine while i had them off, all you have to do is when you have the carbs torn down, put all the float and needle assembly together, turn them upside-down so the float is up, jiggle the carbs so the floatsts bounce around a little so they are seated in place and not binding. while you still holding them upside-down, hold them right in front of you and look to see if both floats are level with each other, several i have done has been uneven, if they are uneven, take two small pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold the arm near the middle where the needle valve is and use the other pair to bend easlily the arm on the far float to equal level, make sure to hold needle valve off the seat so it not down and possillely mess it up or take it out and bend it and put back in. after you are sure they are pretty level across the 2 floats then make sure the needle valve is set down on seat and measure from the edge of bow to the top of the floats and it should be between 8 to 9 mm,(i try to get mine nearer to 9mm). i usually check it on both sides of the set of floats just to be sure i've got them level as i can. checking them out the way the book says to do it is way too hard fro me to do. one of the guys near me wants to take his down and check them out on his 98 so i may try to do a video of it as there will be 2 of us.i'll let y'all know when we do it. try this link, let me know if it works. -
Hello All, First I have searched to no avail for Gen II carb diaphragm replacement vendors or fixes. Found the thread to spray on rubber stuff:think: for a temp fix. While taking apart carbs on my 99 RSV to clean today, I may have put the carb slider cap on a TAD wrong, to say the diaphragm was pinched and a small hole is now in the material at the bend where it seats on carb body. It may have already been there, not for sure.... ANYWAY I need one. Help? Man those carbs were dirty..... Thank you in advance...Looking for new one. Directions? Also, the fuel mixture screws are obviously not set the same. Inside the throat of the carb body where the screw (or hole) is present, One is thru enough to cut yourself on, while the others are barely or not at all... I am not a carb expert. Directions to setting these properly? Thanks, James:bowdown: -
I have an 86 that I just bought and it will not start. It has to be a fuel issue, it will start with starting fluid or a little gas poured in the carbs. The fuel pump is working and gas is getting to the carbs (line from pump removed key turned on). It has started once and ran for about a minute, really smooth, and quit. Is there something that would cause the fuel pump to stop or just dirty carbs? BTW did swap in a known good pump and same story.
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Is there a way to adjust the choke on 96 Royal Star? Mine looks to be closing the right carbs but not all the way on the side carbs. I am talking about the little plunger that the linkage bar hooks over. I actually need a new choke handle cause mine is busted.
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Put carbs back on bike after removal for exterior cleaning. I did not go into carbs but did seperate the bank. After putting back on bike I noticed my throttle was slow to come back. I adjusted cables and the same thing. Both carb #1 and #2 I noticed that the springs connecting the throttle wheel and connecting the linkage on #2 where not tight. I am pretty sure that is my issue. Now...I dont know why or how they are loose. This might be a stupid question but is this associated with the TPS sensor by any chance. I did not remove the TPS nore bracket connected to #2. I am confused and I am sure I am going to have to remove the bank again but I would like some info on what I need to do. Thanks again!!!
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Turns out I was being cheap and stupid. I tripped over my ego and landed with, well you know. Anyway, I take great pride in the fact that I think I am a pretty good mechanic, unfortunately, there comes a time when you realize the thinking part of that statement can be your undoing. I have had my Royal Star for 17 years and the last 10 have done all my own work. I can pull those carbs off with my eyes closed, well at least that part is true. It is what happens after you get em off that is the problem. I diagnose the problem and fix whatever is wrong and put em back together, built a lot of my own test gadgets and sync tool, man am I smart! I save tons of money too! So after all this time, seems the bike and I are growing old, why a month ago I embarrassed myself at a Patriot Guard ride. I was in formation next to a trike and we came to an idle crawl. I found myself doing the "bike weave" with the front tire and pulling the clutch in more than it was out trying to ride at a complete idle. I kept having to put my feet down and as my face was getting a little more crimson in color and by God I was jealous of the guy on the trike and thinking maybe it was time to retire the old girl cause I could hardly do this anymore. Well, I went home, let the bike sit for a couple of weeks, then thought I would go for a ride. The bike had taken to leaking a little fuel if I left it sit for awhile but the leak would stop after it got warmed up. DANG ETHANOL! I knew that crap must be drying out the rubber! So I thought, the float needles are rubber and they are the only thing that would make the fuel run out because I had already adjusted the floats and being the ace mechanic that I am this must be it. I ordered the needles, pulled the carbs and replaced them, put it all back together and fired it up. Now I have a leak at one of the float bowls, needs a new o-ring, ordered the o-ring. pulled off the carbs, replaced the O-ring and put everything back together and fired it up, now I have popping, could not figure this out so guessed I must have put something together wrong, pulled the carbs off again, could not find anything wrong so I did all the tests, I find that the float level will not remain the same over time, diagnosed to a bad o-ring on the float seat assembly. Ordered them, replaced them, put everything back together and fired it up..... another float bowl o-ring is leaking....Now at this point it has been three months since the PGR ride and those carbs have been off more than granny's nightgown. I give up and order all new parts for the carbs, because by now I have a mismatched bunch of parts that have been replaced at all kinds of different times, bear in mind that this is how I have been doing the maintenance over the years. The parts were not all that expensive, a few hundred bucks when purchased all together. I rebuilt the carbs, did all the adjustments, fired em up, synced and low and behold, I am not OLD, I can ride at idle. Not only that, but my gas mileage has improved by over 10 mpg, I can turn tighter and starts at lights are almost night and day different. If you have been riding the same bike, and it seems like you are growing old together, rethink it! I did not notice the degradation in performance over time but after rebuilding it the sound is so different, I am ashamed that I did not notice any of those things. I was ready to cash it in. So for all you out there that any of this sounds familiar, take it from a newly humbled idiot. All this time I thought I was being frugal and smart, turns out, I was being cheap and stupid! Old dogs really can learn, too bad it took so long! Anybody wants to know how to get the carbs off or back on in 6 1/2 minutes let me know.
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So...on my way into work this morning, I was accelerating (harder than normal in 3rd gear) to merge onto the highway. The engine responded quite well to the twist...but as it started to wind up, the engine appeared to gain more power...almost like another couple of carb jets opened up...the same kind of feeling you get when you accelerate faster than you let the clutch out. So that begs the question...WTH? The carbs are synch'd, and adjusted approx 3.5 turns out. Other than the above, the bike is running pretty good. Any suggestions on what to check? Sure seems like a carb / fuel delivery anomaly. :confused24:
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Newbie with carb question
ncnative posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hello everyone! I am a proud new owner of a 1997 Tour Deluxe. Clean bike with only 24,000 miles. Previous owner had not ridden the bike in a couple years and according to him he was having carbs issues when he decided to sell it. Told me he had a mechanic come to his home, pull and clean the carbs?? The bike did start easily when I went to check it out, due to the weather, time of day and not being familiar with the area I did not take it for a test ride. I did ride it onto the trailer to bring it home. Now the bike will start and run with full choke, no matter how long I let it warm up it will not run without full choke. Driving down my local rural road it will come up to speed, but does not run smoothly and has some decel popping, not sure how much of this popping is caused by having the choke on? I have some motorcycle carb experience, I have removed and cleaned the carbs on numerous 1100 Honda Shadows and 1100 V Stars, but I have never done anything on a 4 cylinder bike. 1) how hard is it to pull the carbs on this bike 2) any tricks I should know that will save me time and headache 3) anything I should watch out for when pulling the carbs..like springs or screws and such that can pop off or fall out 4) last but now least....Do I really need to pull the carbs?? -
Newbie with carb question
ncnative posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Hello everyone! I am a proud new owner of a 1997 Tour Deluxe. Clean bike with only 24,000 miles. Previous owner had not ridden the bike in a couple years and according to him he was having carbs issues when he decided to sell it. Told me he had a mechanic come to his home, pull and clean the carbs?? The bike did start easily when I went to check it out, due to the weather, time of day and not being familiar with the area I did not take it for a test ride. I did ride it onto the trailer to bring it home. Now the bike will start and run with full choke, no matter how long I let it warm up it will not run without full choke. Driving down my local rural road it will come up to speed, but does not run smoothly and has some decel popping, not sure how much of this popping is caused by having the choke on? I have some motorcycle carb experience, I have removed and cleaned the carbs on numerous 1100 Honda Shadows and 1100 V Stars, but I have never done anything on a 4 cylinder bike. 1) how hard is it to pull the carbs on this bike 2) any tricks I should know that will save me time and headache 3) anything I should watch out for when pulling the carbs..like springs or screws and such that can pop off or fall out 4) last but now least....Do I really need to pull the carbs?? -
I was given a 97 royal star very recently that has less than 500 miles on it, though it hasnt been ran in about ten years. Its been sitting in a garage and shows it. This is the first time I have ever touched a motorcycle, though I have done a good amount of work on cars. My main concern right now is getting the bike running. When I turn the bike on before I hit the start switch I get fuel pouring out of the overflow tubes. From what I have read its pretty obvious that I need to pull the carbs and clean them, though with there being four of them the task is a little daunting with syncing and everything else involved. I know that seafoam wont work if I cant get a flow through the carbs. Here is what I am asking: 1. Is there a way to clean the carbs out without removing them? 2. Are the carbs the culprit for these symptoms? 3. How do you sync the carbs once they are all clean and back in? 4. What else should I be replacing? ( plugs, oil, oil filter, where is fuel filter?) 5. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone knows a great way to get rid of pitting thatd be awesome. Right now Im using fine steel wool and a turtle wax chrome polish and rust remover, but there are still tiny spots that I am not sure if they will come off at all. Thanks -
So I got this Venture about a week ago as a project bike. It wasn't in too bad a condition for sitting for four years, so after two days of cleaning it up it looked pretty good. Spent the better part of another two days making repairs and cleaning the carbs. Put it back together synched the carbs and it now runs like a champ. Thanks to all for suggestions and comments!
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I have been having trouble getting the idle mixture set on my 83VR. I have the airbox off now and noticed there is fuel dripping from the slide needle on 3 of them when the engine is running. Thought to myself that the float level was too high so I put a clear tube on the drain to check. Supprising all of them are right on, 14mm below the carb centerline. The carbs were cleaned last winter and all gaskets were replaced even the jet block plugs. Before I remove them and take them apart I just wanted some input on what might be causing this.
