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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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Everyone seems to like the Morgan Carbtune here. Can someone explain why this is so good vs. other mercury / vacuum / carb synch tools? I need to do synchs, want to get something, but don't want to wait for the Morgan unless it's signifigantly better than other products I can get faster. Thanks
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Please join me in welcoming Ad Custom Chrome to the list of vendors who offer us a discount. Brian manufactures the carb covers for the RSV and RSTD. I had to give this one some serious thought because we already have a long time member here, slowrollwv, who makes and sells the carb covers and also twinky covers. Brian understood my hesitation and desire to be fair about this and offered the solution that he would not market the smooth finish covers here but only the ball milled and custom engraved covers that slowrollwv is not selling. I think that was very fair of him. He seems like a great guy and I have no problem welcoming him to our family. You can find his ad with links to his website here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=726638#post726638
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So...on my way into work this morning, I was accelerating (harder than normal in 3rd gear) to merge onto the highway. The engine responded quite well to the twist...but as it started to wind up, the engine appeared to gain more power...almost like another couple of carb jets opened up...the same kind of feeling you get when you accelerate faster than you let the clutch out. So that begs the question...WTH? The carbs are synch'd, and adjusted approx 3.5 turns out. Other than the above, the bike is running pretty good. Any suggestions on what to check? Sure seems like a carb / fuel delivery anomaly. :confused24:
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I'm looking for a set of carb covers for my Venture. Apparently they have been discontinued. Anyone know how to do a dealer search? My dealer says he could not find them. Part no is STR 4XY 27 42 02 Thanks Mike
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My brother sent me a link to this source of carb diaphragms for his xs650. http://jbmindustries.com/Dimensions.html Does anyone know these folks? $20 a piece for new ones would be great. I see Venture listed as M-73. Does anyone know the carb measurements that would be needed to fit my 89?
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Finished up the 87 last Friday and got her back on the road. She seemed to be running fine but I didn't get a chance to put some miles on her until Tuesday. So, Tuesday I rode up to Dahlonega to visir RandyR and do a carb sync. On the ride up she was running great, with great acceration and no sign of the 4200rpm stumble that she had been having. But, she is still sucking gas at 28MPG (1up averageing 70mph on interstate). :doh:When we hooked the carb tune up #3 was pegging and the others were fairly close. We did the carb sync and I headed back towing my trailer. The ride back got about the same mileage (1up towing trailer averging about 60MPH and about 30 miles of stop start in traffic) I had really hoped that finding and correcting the loose main jet tube on #4 and new main jet tube orings on all four would have corrected the MPG problem but it didn't. I did notice some black soot at the exhaust tips. I'm now thinking one or more weak or faulty coils. I'm about to go out and pull the plugs to read the fuel burn conditions. I'll post pictures of the results as soon as I do. All help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. -
I have been having trouble getting the idle mixture set on my 83VR. I have the airbox off now and noticed there is fuel dripping from the slide needle on 3 of them when the engine is running. Thought to myself that the float level was too high so I put a clear tube on the drain to check. Supprising all of them are right on, 14mm below the carb centerline. The carbs were cleaned last winter and all gaskets were replaced even the jet block plugs. Before I remove them and take them apart I just wanted some input on what might be causing this.
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Seems like there are ALOT of carb issue threads, so I may as well add one more. I've been wrking on my 83 which supposedly ran just fine a couple of years ago. I saved the bike from the scrap yard due to transmission issues. I upgraded to a 1300 trans and now trying to get the bike running. The carbs ended up being really really dirty, after going thru them a couple of times, the bike runs now, but I'm having an issue with a bad delay when I give it throttle coming off of idle, and then a very slow drop from 2500 rpm back down to idle. The carbs are really nice and clean inside, every passage seems very clear now. I did not mess with float levels, nor did I check them. I have sync'd the carbs using a carb stick and that went well. I did not replace anything, not even the diaphraghms because they look to be in excellent condition. The slides all dance about the same when the bike is running. No vacuum leaks at all that I can find. I've sprayed starting fluid around the intake boots and bottoms of the carbs and no leaks. Any ideas of what to look for next?
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Carb swap compatibility
spitfire9 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Thinking hard about buying Dmnordin's rebuilt carb set, which is from an 86 1300. Anyone know if it is the same setup as on the 85 1200 I have? I think it is, but hate to drop the $$$ and have a nice set of carbs I can't use. Thx to any and all that answer. I do appreciate you guys/gals. Kevin -
Hi All, New Member here and learning a lot. I have 2002 Midnight Venture with less than 8000 miles. She still has the original tires. Below is a picture. Lately she has been been doing nothing much beyond sitting in the garage collecting cobwebs. At one point several months ago I brought a new battery and went to start it up. It did not start and there was fuel leaking from the carb overflows. I am in SW Florida and and we have 10% ethanol in our gas and I'm figuring that did me in. Thanks to the great article from Freebird: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7830 I got the carbs off and cleaned up. Now the bike runs great and idles great. I had them on and off about 8 times before I finally got it right. On the last attempt I looked through one of the pilot jets and realized the tiny pinhole was a bit smaller than the rest. No amount of blowing would clear it. I have a carb cleaning tool that has wires in various diameters. I poked the smallest one through a good pilot jet and felt no resistance. I then poked it through the one with the smaller pinhole and felt resistance. I pushed it through and then blew it out again. I could *see* some crud fly out of it. After that it finally idled OK. Only issue is that I somehow ended up with a left over screw that I *think* is from the bike. Probably from the area around the middle of the bike because I also replaced the fuel filter and checked out the fuel pump which turned out to be OK. There is a picture of the screw. It is a philips head and about 3/4 inch long with a washer. If anybody recognizes it and knows where it goes, I would appreciate it if you could let me know. Since I got so much from this forum already, I would like to contribute something. One of the warnings in dealing with these carbs is to not lose the tiny O-Ring in the edge of the bodies that gets exposed when you remove the diaphragms. Of course I lost one - perhaps it was never there. At any rate, I had a set of O-rings I picked up a while ago from Harbor Freight to fix a leaky hand held sprayer. The smallest in this set worked pretty well in the carb and I like I said, the bike is running real sweet now. There are some pics showing the O-ring set and the label. Your biggest problem will be what to do with the other 381 o-rings in the set. I also found that using plastic cups to protect the intake while the carbs were off worked pretty well. Thanks again Freebird for the great article. I probably would not even have tried this without it as a guide. After about the 4th time taking them on and off, I was able to do it in about 10 minutes. First time is always hardest!
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Sharing my new bling, just put them on. Chuck AKA (Slowrollwv) is making them now next door on the other site. I think he has 5 more sets made. Outstanding work on these carb covers and REALLY HARD to find anymore these days. Comes with all the hardware and sell for $ 85.00 shipped. Here are a couple pics Before and After. [ATTACH]71736[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71737[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71738[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71740[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71739[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71741[/ATTACH]
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Anyone have a good step by step procedure on how to swap an MKII carb. My 89 carbs are acting up and would like to put the carbs from my wrecked 91 in. Then I'll rebuild the 89 carb. -
While reinstalling the diaphrams today I noticed something odd. On carb #3, (right front) the brass round piece that the diaphram needle goes into was protruding about 3/8" out of the carb throat wall. On the other three carbs it was flush with the carb throat walls. Could this be a factor in the poor gas mileage problem and why. See Pics attached. [ATTACH]71678[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71679[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71680[/ATTACH]
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Sorry if this is the wrong place to post a question about a shop or person in Dallas/Fr worth that works on 1st Gen VR but I need to find a good shop or person within 100 miles of DFW that knows what they are doing. Carb work mostly. Appreciate any advise, help or clues on how to find a repair place for my 92 VR which has several issues. Thanks Roger -
I finally got home from over the pond and decided with all the warm dry weather to get the 1st gen out. Guess what? it wouldn't run without the choke on. If I tried to rev it up it just died. Bit of history, 86 Venture Royale. 36,000 miles, stock with the exceptions of upgraded fuse block, I put the aftermarket CDI box on it (bought through Dingy). Progressive springs, fork brace. After all the mods last year, I rode it for 18 miles and it ran great. I drained the carbs, put stabil in the gas and it sat until today. I drained the old gas out of the tank and put new in replaced the fuel filter, and tried to fire it up it wouldnt run without the choke on. Today I pulled the carbs, and cleaned them fully, I did find one of the little plugs in the carb on the bottom of the main jet block kind of looking mushy. ( they were new a year ago with a full carb overhaul. (Done by a carb re-builder) I replaced it with a new one from a kit I had left over. I tried it again and the same thing. Pulled the carbs again and made sure everything was good. The diaphrams are new last year, I replaced the plugs, checked for vacuum leaks and bad plug wires didn't find anything wrong. It still wont run without full choke. I even put the known good stock CDI box on and tried it. Still don't work. I am out of ideas to find the problem. I dont use the gas with the ethonol in it. can anyone help? rjjammer -
i purchased a Carbtune about two years ago and shortly thereafter sync'd my carb. i thought it wouldn't hurt to re-sync, so i hooked up the Carbtune and lo and behold all four bars were within a gnat behind of each other. to those who are more familiar with syncing, my question - "is it normal for the carbs to stay synchronized"? btw the bike has been running great and i don't really have any complaints after 36k miles.
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ok i'm looking to do a carb sync on my scoot and just cant afford the tool or having the dealership do the work. (Have you seen the price of gas I comute 2 hours everyday for work) so anyway I found this great DIY carb sync tool seems more accurate then the the tube and oil method. great walkthrough on how to make your own. http://faq.ninja250.org/index.php/Is_there_a_carb_sync_tool%3F
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I have drilled the brass plugs out and now I need to know which way to turn to richen my carbs up a bit. I have searched on a lot of Mikuni sites but they seem to all have instructions because I can't seem to fine much info on BDS28/4 carb banks. So what do...counter clock or clock to richen just a bit? -
MOTORCYCLE CARB BALANCER Amazingly simple yet incredibly accurate Motorcycle Carb Balancer. This incredibly simple device will synch your bikes carbs like no other balancer with 'pinpoint accuracy" for a fraction of the cost of some balancers. Certain tradesmen tools rely on nature to help find a certain accuracy, for example a plumb line and bob will always show a true vertical line. A spirit level cannot lie. This carb balancer uses gravity in a similar manner to show a true centre, this is why it is so accurate. Other balancers costing far more often compare the vacuum readings of the different carbs with each other and can sometimes be difficult to decipher, this carb balancer is different, as it compares the vacuum readings with a known truthful centre, namely 'gravity." Inside the balancer are two tiny balls, one of these balls has the sole job of telling you nature's centre via gravity, the other ball is influenced by the vacuums taken from two carbs at any one time. If the two carbs are working in harmony the two balls will align, if not the lower ball will move to one side. Simply turn the screw on you bike's carbs to align the two balls and synch the carbs, its as easy as that! The Carb Balancer can synchronise 2,3 and four cylinder bikes. Start with the base cylinder and any other carb, then subsequent carbs. The base cylinder is the carb with the throttle stop/tick over screw. Repeat the process to super synch your carbs.If your carbs are badly out of synch your engine will be under terrific extra strain as your pistons are working against each other, and not with each other, sapping vital power and fuel. Synchronise your carbs to perfection and you may notice an amazing improvement in power and performance, just look at some of the feedback given for this amazing tool under our feedback.Use the tool time and time again to keep your bike in tune . This quality tool is neat and compact it weighs only 100gms and you can even keep it on your bike when you go touring.
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I was installing my JBM carb diaphragms, and I got a little to energetic getting the metal ring out and a carb slide broke apart. Anybody have one that I can buy? The condition of the diaphragm isn't important, I've got the new one to install. It's for a 1st Gen, MK II (89). Thanks, Frank D.
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Adjusted the one tight intake valve on my 89, and figured that seeing that the Tupperware was all off, I may as well check the carb diaphrams. I had small holes in 3 of them---my bike only has 58K miles on it. I looked up Sirius and found that they were out of stock on diaphrams until the end of the month. While doing searches here on this site, I came across Snagletooth's message about using Plasti coat to make a temporary repair. Home Depot carries Plasti coat, so this morning I followed Snagletooths' proceedure and this afternoon I re-installed the sealed diaphrams. In addition to the Tupperware, both heat shields (the ones that are over each valve cover) were out, so it was real easy to change the spark plugs. Heck, I also found an open plug cap. I ordered replacements, but I took the bad one apart and convinced it to work by cleaning everything up. The resistance is a bit high (the resistor itself reads high), but it'll work until the new ones get here. Then the fun began. I started the bike up, and it sounded good when you opened the throttle, but it idled badly and slowly. I checked the carb sync, and it was all over the place. I synced the carbs (both on the right side were almost completely closed) and I had to slow the idle speed down quite a bit. I also had to adjust the idle mixture screws. Now it's idleing great. Those holes in the diaphrams sure had an effect on how the bike idled. BTW, I had adjusted the carb sync in May, and it was idleing what I thought was OK before I started on the diaphrams. Tomorrow morning I'll put it all back together and if it's not raining like they predict, I'll take it for a ride.
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Went to start the bike today & don't know why but I turned the key on/off multiple times. Each time I noticed the fuel pump kicking in. I did it a dozen times in a row & the pump ran each time. Then I smelled gas & found that the right front carb had gas leaking around it (overflow?). After awhile I hit the start button for a couple seconds & it didn't start luckily. But I got pretty concerned when I saw gas coming out of the right exhaust pipe back by the rear wheel. WTF?! Is that normal even if the float is stuck? What to do now?
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What is the function of the little nylon roller on the horizontal carb linkage bar as indicated by the yellow arrow in the attached image? Should the pull-open throttle cable rest on this roller? This is on an '88 Venture Royale ZVZ1300 -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '88VR
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I just bought a 1983 xvz12 and it is not running very well. When you rev it up the front carb on the left side...the "piston looking thing" on the top (when air cleaner is removed) is not moving and the back carb is back firing when you rev it up. The right side seems okay. I was told it has been sitting since 89 but the last year he was driving to and from his MC club. and help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi everyone, Just noticed the carb mount, throat thing on on the front left cyl is cracked. That would explain all the goo. What are these called? Can they be fixed? Looks like a little epoxy might do it maybe. Does anybody have any they would like to sell? Thanks!
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