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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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Here goes...the mystery of Yamaha's carburetors........ 2007 RSTD XVZ1300CT Looking to repair/rebuild from the body/core up, the carburetor(s) of my RSTD. A victim of crappy CA gas and failure to drain in timely manner. Amazing how much crap gummed up everything. The gas here is the precursor for ingredient for superglue......Yes, I have learned my lesson the hardest way imaginable First, the throttle rod and both end seals are considered "NON SERVICABLE" cannot find ANY info anywhere, not even 3rd market support. Not even in the explodable parts diagrams (Revzilla, Partzilla, Chaparral etc.). Anything outside of "rebuild" kits, translates buy new carbs (est. at $1700 via dealer). Discovered this when 5 out of eight butterfly screws rounded out. Used JIS bits, ground off staked end of screws, and all of precautions etc. Enough of the woes.... What years interchangeable (if at all) are the carbs between RSV vs. RSTD. What are the differences (besides CA EPA), or, what does it take to make one work for the other? Then the BIG question is.....are those parts available for first shop repairs? I thank y'all in advance for your replies.............. . -
Hi all new member and new RSV owner. Picked up an 04 with 6000 miles on it, looks great, carbs were a bit dirty and pissing gas at first. After a few cleaning attempts they opened up and the thing drove great for about 700 miles. Yesterday I started bogging down after I push it up a bit at highway speed. I lose power, stop riding, wait a few minutes then it starts again pretty fine, except it's backfiring out of the right pipe only when I rev it a bit. This leads me to believe that one of the carbs is flooding when I open up on the highway. This is a bike that sat for about 10 years unused, so I can get if something was making it's way through the fuel system. Would the ignition cables have gotten old from sitting and maybe one of them stop firing at speed all of a sudden? My next consideration is that it's all getting pretty hot. I'm not seeing any warning light, and I wouldn't be getting paranoid if I didn't notice how low the coolant was in it after buying. I topped it up with mixable coolant, but it made me realize, I've never heard a radiator fan on this thing. I've only ever had one other liquid cooled bike and that blower came on as soon as I turned the ignition key. I think I read somewhere that this one only kicks in when a sensor tells it that it's hot enough, but even after riding an hour I pull into a gas station and cut the engine, there's no blower running. Is there a chance my cooling system / warning light is not working and the whole thing is just overheating? Currently stuck in a small town on the Wisconsin/Illinois border so any insight is much appreciated. I'll probably have the tank off today in my motel parking lot but any tips or thoughts of something to look for would be a huge help, thanks! - Jesse
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Hi folks. New member here. I just picked up an '89 Venture Royale, 29K miles, overall good shape but hasn't run regularly in over a year. It's my first touring bike. I've owned an inline 4 (Kawa), two Triumph in-line twins (including my current other bike) but this is my first V configuration bike. I have what I would self-assess as intermediate/advanced mechanical ability. The bike has a couple of problems that need to be addressed immediately before getting my state inspection so I can title and register it. First: It's missing and it appears to be the right rear cylinder (don't know yet how the cylinders or numbered). It will only idle somewhat smoothly when it's warmed up, about middle of temp gauge. On the ride home, it was clearly missing, but when I hammered the throttle, the missing cylinder would start firing and it would pull like a train...an obvious difference in engine performance. Now, in the garage with the air box out, it bogs immediately at more than half throttle. I'm thinking that I have some seriously gummed up carbs, maybe a fuel system issue, but not entirely sure. Do I try to clean and clear out the fuel system with Seafoam or some other product without pulling, disassembling, and cleaning the carbs, or should I just go straight to getting those carbs off and giving them a thorough cleaning? Anyone experience something similar and what was the fix? I've printed off an excellent 1st Gen Carb Service tutorial and am confident that I can pull those carbs and give them a thorough going through...I'd just rather avoid it if I can get away with it. Second: Front braking action is decent, but not great. Certainly not as good as I'd expect. Rear braking action is virtually non-existent. Good meat on pads all around and rotors are in good shape. I've ordered sintered brake pads all-around for it, which I'll install after I'm sure I have the braking action issues resolved. My hunch is that while the bike was sitting, some air has infiltrated and my lack of brake action can be resolved with a thorough bleeding and replacing the brake fluid. So what's the best method for brake bleeding on these bikes and what else should I check to ensure I have properly functioning, reliable brakes? I've also ordered new fuel, air, and oil filters and intend to replace all the fluids to include coolant and to inspect and lube everything identified in the manual. What else should I be doing to the bike to get it back into tip-top shape? Thanks and happy to be aboard! -
So after having a bad experience with a local shop trying to tune my carbs by ear, I decided I would tackle this myself or hopefully with some fellow VRs. So understand this, I have no mechanical background and am clueless on this. Im leaving to Colorado with my 83 first Gen in August (last week) so will be hitting this quickly. My thought is to try to do all at once. So I was looking for help from here to create a checklist of things to do. 1) first on the list is the new TCI from Dingy. After reading many post it seems like this would be a must an because I felt like some of my bikes symptoms are related. Plus it sounds way better than the possible diodes cording in the 30 year old OEM. 2) I believe it sounds like it would be wise to replace the "sliders and diahprhams" in the carb. Sounds like I need 4. Is there a current best place to order them from? 3). Plug and remove the 4 boxes of the Ycis ports. This one is still hooked up. 4) Skydocs's needle shim kit. Question is do I order 4 kits or does 1 kit take care of all the carbs. 5) sea foam of coarse. 6) I guess new plugs are in order since I have been doing the sea foam. Any recommendations what kind. Long story short, the bike ran good before shop adjusted carbs other than lower mpg. Some of the list is preventative maintaince and if I'm there might as well do it. Any suggestions would be great. I'll be ordering a Carbtune too. Last thing, anyone know someone in the Southwest Missouri (Branson) area that could mentor this process on the day of. I would certainly make it worth while. Or possibly someone wanting a Branson vacation :-). I dont care care about popping wheelies but would like to know of this "power". Mainly wanting better mpg. Good thing is there is no fuel leaks on the garage floor after riding it. I have some pro video and photo equipment and would love to document this process for other noobs like myself. Then I'll be filming my adVENTURE to Colorado too thanks in advanced.
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I had to disassemble (again) the carbs off of this doggone 83 I have been messing with. Upon reassembly I found I am now missing the idle mixture screw. It was there when I took the carb apart, but have somehow lost it. I have the small spring but not the needle itself. I just spent about 2 hours looking all of the garage for this needle but with no luck. My reason for posting is to find out if anyone knows where one can be purchased. I just checked a couple websites and I don't even see this carb part listed. Or, if anyone has not they are willing to sell, I would be more than happy to buy it from you. I appreciate any help I can get with this matter. Thanks -
Does anyone have a carb sync tool I could borrow or possibly buy? I took the carbs off the bike to do the valve adjustment and I cleaned up the carbs some too. When i got them back on and the bike running it pops out of the right pipe. When i take the little rubber boot off of the sync nipple it'll rev up momentarily but there really is no change. Took a little Brake parts cleaner and sprayeed it in the hole and she smoked a little but never idled up or down. I dont trust any of the shops in my town and I know i need the carbs synced. I'm just hoping it'll take care of the problem
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Just looking for everyones take on the carb slide vacum hole location when reassembling carb slides on my 87. It looks like they should point down at 6:00. -
I just picked up an 85 with carbs removed. I am not sure if i have all the hoses correctly routed and the book is no help. I also need some help on how to best press the carb bodies back onto the boots by myself in 40 degree weather. I see only 3 hoses on the upper section coming from under the seat that i believe should connect to the 4 carb air vents on the carb bowls that are on a 45 degree angle. I do have the 4 little drain hoses on the bottom. I also have the canister on the left side that is not completely connected. Any help with all these hoses would be appreciated I have worked many bikes but do not see how i can easily press these carbs back into place. Any suggestions besides brute force? -
This time of year alot of people will be doing various things to their bikes or other equiptment, in order to get them ready for next year... Make sure you wear proper saftey gear for the job at hand... Specifically....saftey glasses. I just got a shot of carb cleaner in both eyes after having worn them all day. Really wanted to paint my 612 Dozer blade today, had it all stripped down and took the glasses off (they were fogging up) to finnish up the corners and hard to reach areas with my scaler. When i went to clean the debri off of the scaling gun, you guessed it, the carb cleaner went in to my eyes and right now I'm hoping the damage is not permanent... Wear the saftey gear all the time, and above all else .... Know when to call it quits...
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Hello All, First I have searched to no avail for Gen II carb diaphragm replacement vendors or fixes. Found the thread to spray on rubber stuff:think: for a temp fix. While taking apart carbs on my 99 RSV to clean today, I may have put the carb slider cap on a TAD wrong, to say the diaphragm was pinched and a small hole is now in the material at the bend where it seats on carb body. It may have already been there, not for sure.... ANYWAY I need one. Help? Man those carbs were dirty..... Thank you in advance...Looking for new one. Directions? Also, the fuel mixture screws are obviously not set the same. Inside the throat of the carb body where the screw (or hole) is present, One is thru enough to cut yourself on, while the others are barely or not at all... I am not a carb expert. Directions to setting these properly? Thanks, James:bowdown: -
I am looking for 1 carb slide for a 87 1300 . The diaphram does not have to good and I do not need the needle or attaching pieces. All I need is the black slide since I dropped one of mine and busted the top of it. Thanks and everyone have a Merry Christmas:fingers-crossed-emo
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I have been a Venture fan for years and finally I recently purchased a used 2000 back in september. The carbs needed to be set up right but I did not want to do the spacer trick to them. My mechanic is designer for many tweaks and jet kits for various bikes so I went to him to talk about what to do. Since there is no true jet kit for the second gen Ventures he took my bike in on his dyno for a little R&D for a true jet kit. After numerous spins on the dyno and different needles he had a needle custom cut with 5 angles. It took the weakness out of the original lean stock set up. So after picking it up I went for a short ride today between raindrops. Road was wet and I am spinning the rear tire like crazy if I twist too much. Granted I have no trunk or bags on but whoa the rear tire let loose easy in lower gears. When I first got the bike back in september the clutch would slip at just a touch of the lever but never under power. Now it slipped with the added power till it warmed up some. Clutch needed replacement anyway and is on the winter to do list. Great pull power in every gear except I could not tell in overdrive only because I was not going fast enough. Need to get it on the highway to properly test that. Patrtial throttle response was greatly improved with instant response at a touch of the throttle. It felt like it pulled almost as hard as my Honda Magnas (12.5 sec 1/4 mile on the Magna) but I will update that when I can run my friend with his Magna. Cold start was pull choke out it starts right up, one minute later push choke in and it runs normally. That was a huge improvement over stock set up as it took a while to run normally before the jet kit. So overall this is a needed improvement for all Venure/Royal Star owners. Stock set up was way too lean. Once I can get some long runs in I will be able to determine gas mileage. I bet it is the same if not better than stock as you don't have to twist the throttle much to get it rolling more. I am also running K&N air filters and NGK Iridium plugs. Ivan knows what he is doing on these as he has many kits for older bikes that work perfect. You should see his cherry collection of 60s-80s 2cycle bikes in his shop. Best 140 bucks you can spend on your Yamaha! http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/xvz1300.htm
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Put carbs back on bike after removal for exterior cleaning. I did not go into carbs but did seperate the bank. After putting back on bike I noticed my throttle was slow to come back. I adjusted cables and the same thing. Both carb #1 and #2 I noticed that the springs connecting the throttle wheel and connecting the linkage on #2 where not tight. I am pretty sure that is my issue. Now...I dont know why or how they are loose. This might be a stupid question but is this associated with the TPS sensor by any chance. I did not remove the TPS nore bracket connected to #2. I am confused and I am sure I am going to have to remove the bank again but I would like some info on what I need to do. Thanks again!!!
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OK folks, it's been a while since we have had a contest. Thanks to AdChrome, I think it's time that we do just that very thing. Now I realize that this is a second gen/RSTD specific item but that's just the way it goes sometimes. So....we are going to have a contest and give this beautiful set of carb covers away to some lucky winner. Now I just have to decide WHAT kind of contest it will be. I'll be getting back to you soon on that.
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So...on my way into work this morning, I was accelerating (harder than normal in 3rd gear) to merge onto the highway. The engine responded quite well to the twist...but as it started to wind up, the engine appeared to gain more power...almost like another couple of carb jets opened up...the same kind of feeling you get when you accelerate faster than you let the clutch out. So that begs the question...WTH? The carbs are synch'd, and adjusted approx 3.5 turns out. Other than the above, the bike is running pretty good. Any suggestions on what to check? Sure seems like a carb / fuel delivery anomaly. :confused24:
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Hey VR buddies!! Can someone please post pictures of their bike with the AD Chrome carb covers on it. Been lookin and lookin but can't find any? sorry. Thanks!!
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Please join me in welcoming Ad Custom Chrome to the list of vendors who offer us a discount. Brian manufactures the carb covers for the RSV and RSTD. I had to give this one some serious thought because we already have a long time member here, slowrollwv, who makes and sells the carb covers and also twinky covers. Brian understood my hesitation and desire to be fair about this and offered the solution that he would not market the smooth finish covers here but only the ball milled and custom engraved covers that slowrollwv is not selling. I think that was very fair of him. He seems like a great guy and I have no problem welcoming him to our family. You can find his ad with links to his website here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=726638#post726638
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My brother sent me a link to this source of carb diaphragms for his xs650. http://jbmindustries.com/Dimensions.html Does anyone know these folks? $20 a piece for new ones would be great. I see Venture listed as M-73. Does anyone know the carb measurements that would be needed to fit my 89?
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I have been having trouble getting the idle mixture set on my 83VR. I have the airbox off now and noticed there is fuel dripping from the slide needle on 3 of them when the engine is running. Thought to myself that the float level was too high so I put a clear tube on the drain to check. Supprising all of them are right on, 14mm below the carb centerline. The carbs were cleaned last winter and all gaskets were replaced even the jet block plugs. Before I remove them and take them apart I just wanted some input on what might be causing this.
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Seems like there are ALOT of carb issue threads, so I may as well add one more. I've been wrking on my 83 which supposedly ran just fine a couple of years ago. I saved the bike from the scrap yard due to transmission issues. I upgraded to a 1300 trans and now trying to get the bike running. The carbs ended up being really really dirty, after going thru them a couple of times, the bike runs now, but I'm having an issue with a bad delay when I give it throttle coming off of idle, and then a very slow drop from 2500 rpm back down to idle. The carbs are really nice and clean inside, every passage seems very clear now. I did not mess with float levels, nor did I check them. I have sync'd the carbs using a carb stick and that went well. I did not replace anything, not even the diaphraghms because they look to be in excellent condition. The slides all dance about the same when the bike is running. No vacuum leaks at all that I can find. I've sprayed starting fluid around the intake boots and bottoms of the carbs and no leaks. Any ideas of what to look for next?
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Finished up the 87 last Friday and got her back on the road. She seemed to be running fine but I didn't get a chance to put some miles on her until Tuesday. So, Tuesday I rode up to Dahlonega to visir RandyR and do a carb sync. On the ride up she was running great, with great acceration and no sign of the 4200rpm stumble that she had been having. But, she is still sucking gas at 28MPG (1up averageing 70mph on interstate). :doh:When we hooked the carb tune up #3 was pegging and the others were fairly close. We did the carb sync and I headed back towing my trailer. The ride back got about the same mileage (1up towing trailer averging about 60MPH and about 30 miles of stop start in traffic) I had really hoped that finding and correcting the loose main jet tube on #4 and new main jet tube orings on all four would have corrected the MPG problem but it didn't. I did notice some black soot at the exhaust tips. I'm now thinking one or more weak or faulty coils. I'm about to go out and pull the plugs to read the fuel burn conditions. I'll post pictures of the results as soon as I do. All help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. -
Carb swap compatibility
spitfire9 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Thinking hard about buying Dmnordin's rebuilt carb set, which is from an 86 1300. Anyone know if it is the same setup as on the 85 1200 I have? I think it is, but hate to drop the $$$ and have a nice set of carbs I can't use. Thx to any and all that answer. I do appreciate you guys/gals. Kevin -
Hi All, New Member here and learning a lot. I have 2002 Midnight Venture with less than 8000 miles. She still has the original tires. Below is a picture. Lately she has been been doing nothing much beyond sitting in the garage collecting cobwebs. At one point several months ago I brought a new battery and went to start it up. It did not start and there was fuel leaking from the carb overflows. I am in SW Florida and and we have 10% ethanol in our gas and I'm figuring that did me in. Thanks to the great article from Freebird: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7830 I got the carbs off and cleaned up. Now the bike runs great and idles great. I had them on and off about 8 times before I finally got it right. On the last attempt I looked through one of the pilot jets and realized the tiny pinhole was a bit smaller than the rest. No amount of blowing would clear it. I have a carb cleaning tool that has wires in various diameters. I poked the smallest one through a good pilot jet and felt no resistance. I then poked it through the one with the smaller pinhole and felt resistance. I pushed it through and then blew it out again. I could *see* some crud fly out of it. After that it finally idled OK. Only issue is that I somehow ended up with a left over screw that I *think* is from the bike. Probably from the area around the middle of the bike because I also replaced the fuel filter and checked out the fuel pump which turned out to be OK. There is a picture of the screw. It is a philips head and about 3/4 inch long with a washer. If anybody recognizes it and knows where it goes, I would appreciate it if you could let me know. Since I got so much from this forum already, I would like to contribute something. One of the warnings in dealing with these carbs is to not lose the tiny O-Ring in the edge of the bodies that gets exposed when you remove the diaphragms. Of course I lost one - perhaps it was never there. At any rate, I had a set of O-rings I picked up a while ago from Harbor Freight to fix a leaky hand held sprayer. The smallest in this set worked pretty well in the carb and I like I said, the bike is running real sweet now. There are some pics showing the O-ring set and the label. Your biggest problem will be what to do with the other 381 o-rings in the set. I also found that using plastic cups to protect the intake while the carbs were off worked pretty well. Thanks again Freebird for the great article. I probably would not even have tried this without it as a guide. After about the 4th time taking them on and off, I was able to do it in about 10 minutes. First time is always hardest!
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Anyone have a good step by step procedure on how to swap an MKII carb. My 89 carbs are acting up and would like to put the carbs from my wrecked 91 in. Then I'll rebuild the 89 carb. -
Sharing my new bling, just put them on. Chuck AKA (Slowrollwv) is making them now next door on the other site. I think he has 5 more sets made. Outstanding work on these carb covers and REALLY HARD to find anymore these days. Comes with all the hardware and sell for $ 85.00 shipped. Here are a couple pics Before and After. [ATTACH]71736[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71737[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71738[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71740[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71739[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71741[/ATTACH]
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