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Showing results for tags 'caliper'.
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After replacing my tire on my '83 venture, i think i reinstalled my rear wheel incorrectly. If you are looking at the rear from behind, in which order should the washers go on? When i installed them in the order i thought they came off, the wheel would barely turn. Should there be a washer between the caliper bracket and the swing arm? At this time i do not have a washer between the swingarm and caliper bracket, but im afraid it may be wrong? It drives fine, but i want to be sure incase the brakepads are missalligned. -
Hi; I am putting a new rear tire on my 86VR. I have the repair manual and am following its' directions. I removed the 2 bolts from the caliper mount and am unable to remove the caliper. It rotates freely on the rotor when I spin the wheel but it will not lift off. Have I missed something? As ussual I apreciate any and all help -
Going to be a long post. I have an 08 RSTD and lost the rear brakes a week ago today. This is what I have done. 1: Bleed breaks traditional way 2: Replace Rear pads notice pistons were frozen on curb side. 3: Removed rear caliper cleaned and split caliper. Cleaned all cups and visual check of all o rings 4. Reinstall Caliper bleed brakes still no luck (Pistons are functioning now.) 5: Clear fluid from lines back bled brakes This worked for a day and back to the pedal to the floor. Last night I drained all fluid and back bled again. I have pedal until I push on it twice and then no pedal. I can pump it up only to loose the pressure at the next test in say 60 yards. I have no fluid leaks, hoses appear to be fine. If when I bleed the brakes leave it set overnight I have pressure in the line until I use the pedal. Seems to be failing under load. I have not rebuilt or replaced the master cylinder. Stressing I have a 500 mile ride next Saturday and would like rear brakes. Any suggestions other than take it to a stealer? Thanks in advance SJ
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Ok, I admit it. Some times I put things off a bit longer than I should. I installed new EBC pads front and rear about 18,000 miles ago. I've had to change out the front ones on both sides a couple of times due to caliper leaks and forks seals leaking so I've never worn a set down on the front. As for the back, I took them out and swapped sides about 8,000 miles ago to keep them wearing even. They looked pretty good back then. So.... I had bought new sets for the front and rear to install this spring and had them on hand. I had blown out another set of fork seals so I repaired that and held off on the new front pads until I was sure the new seals would hold. Needless to say the front pads were a lil slick with the oiled pads and I was depending on the rear brake all the time. Only took a couple of days to check the seals and then installed the new pads. I was going to install the rear pads when I mounted my new rear tire, which did not arrive as I had hoped so I put that off again for another week. Over the weekend I was cleaning the bike and had the bags off and looked at the caliper. I could see a lot of piston showing. Pulled the caliper off and dropped the pads. Yikes. Good thing I had swapped sides the last time. Both side were intact and evenly worn but shall we say, a lil thin. Rotor still looks great and still smooth. Good thing I live in the good ole flatlands. So all the new pads were on the day of the "Cager Club Sandwich" incident. At least that was good timing I guess. So one of the rears compared to a fairly new used pad from the front. Next time I'll be checking more often. Mike -
Is there a Bleed screw for the Cooling system??? Everything with Coolant SHOULD have one! Also having trouble getting the rear caliper cover ( Flat Black Cover ) back on. Seems simple. Many Thanks bf
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Need a hand please. I need to remove the front caliper to inspect squeaky pads and have removed both bolts. I assumed the caliper would slide off, but it will not. Have I missed something or is there a method used for removal? Thanks in advance. Mike
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need yellow reflector by front brake caliper just need one. If anyone has one let me know thanks
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Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. 6. Nearly in one piece again. Neil. (Old Miner).
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After saying last year that im done with mods to the bike, some fools here come up with more parts to sell us and we, like sheep, shell out bucks for them. A simple tail light mod, like adding 2-30 red led strips to the rear as a run/brake light combo turned onto Sky Doc's R1 caliper conversion, which turned into replacing all brake/clutch lines with SS lines which turned into rebuilding the rear caliper and new HH pads, and only the best for me, buying that new 5.1 brake fluid which turned into replacing the rear valve cover gasket which turned into replacing the spark plugs which turned into flushing the cooling system which turned into adding Carbon Ones crash bar bracket, which is turning into 2 more smaller red led lights on the back to replace a burned out one, which will lead to an oil change and rear fluid change. Add a wash and wax and im done for good....... Yea Right!!
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Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. Neil. (Old Miner).
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I'm researching the best way to drastically improve front brakes while keeping my integrated brakes intact. I really like the integrated system as it keeps the rear from locking and does a pretty good job stopping the bike. My front brake is "OK", but I know it can be a lot better. Options to consider mixing and matching R1 Caliper 14mm master cylinder from 03 FJR or newer Star V Twin EBC HH pads in stock caliper Stainless lines I know I can use the 14mm master in conjunction with a pair of R1's as many have done, but then I lose the integrated brakes. Anyone put on a single R1 right front caliper and did you use stock or 14mm master? Stainless will be a must. Any real world experience is appreciated. -
Since I am so new to the Ventures I have to ask even if I sound stupid, should there be movement in the rear brake caliper? I can move it a little bit up and down with my hand it seems to rock on a bolt, I just want to make sure its supposed to do that. -
I have a 1983 Venture that I am trying to rebuild and the rear brake caliper was missing. The question is will any other year or model brake caliper work or do I have to find a 1983 model caliper? Thanks! -
Hi guys, I'm having a heck of a time troubleshooting these brakes on my '83 Venture 1200TK. The rear brake pedal has been sloppy (no rear brakes) so I decided to bleed the brakes to see if it would fix the issue. It didn't so I moved onto cleaning and replacing the rear brake caliper seals and rebuilt the rear master cylinder as well. I've been bleeding the brakes for two days and the pedal is still "sloppy" (IE: The pedal is easily pushed all the way down) with no stopping power at the rear caliper. Your question is probably, "How are you bleeding the brakes?" and "Do you know the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder as well?" Both great questions because I don't know a ton about this bike and i need help. As far as How I'm bleeding the brakes: 1st- I topped off the Rear master cylinder reservoir with fresh Dot 3. 2nd- With pedal depressed I opened up the bleeder on rear caliper. Some fluid and bubbles came out, so I tightened the bleeder and let off the pedal. Repeated 5 or 6 times. 3rd- I moved onto the front left caliper and with pedal depressed loosened the bleeder waited a few seconds and tightened. No fluid came out for the first 10-15 times I did this until finally... it did. Then I moved back to rear caliper and repeated, front caliper and repeated and so on and so on.... I still have no rear brakes after two days of this. Do you spot any errors in my technique? Please help me! God Bless -
Does anyone have a suggestion as to why my rear brake rotor seems to be only making good contact with the outer half of the swept area? Rotor is new and the caliper recently rebuilt by one of the pros on this board. I have been underwhelmed by the braking action at the rear - it is worse than with the old, worn rotor, caliper and old rubber brake hoses!
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Would there be any interest from members to purchase replacement square cut O-Rings that go between the brake caliper halves on 1st gen bikes. These are not used on 2nd gen bikes due to caliper design. Yamaha does not list a part for this square cut O-Ring. They recommend in the service manual not splitting the calipers. In order to give the calipers a decent cleaning though, I have found that splitting the caliper is necessary. At times it is need to just get the pistons out of the caliper body. I have located a supplier that will make this O-Ring for me. I have to order a quantity of 250 of them though. There is a 7 week lead time. I can supply 6 of these O-Rings, which is the quantity needed for all three calipers, for a cost of $10.00 including shipping to U.S. & Canada. Please post to this thread or PM me if interested. Bear in mind the long lead time I have on getting these special O-Rings. Gary -
One side of the caliper for my front right side brake was seized, so I took it off and cleaned it really good. I managed to get the pistons moving again. When I reinstalled it on the bike and bled the brakes, I can't get any pressure to the lever. Fluid is moving into the caliper and will shoot out the bleed valve, but I still can't get pressure. So far I've tried holding my finger over the bleed valve to use as a check valve while pumping the brake and I also pulled the line off the caliper to make sure it was getting fluid. The caliper is full, fluid is coming out of the check valve, but I still can't get pressure. What gives??? I'm totally lost. I had good pressure before and I can't see a leak anywhere. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
What is proper assembly of rear wheel on 83 xvz12? From right 1. axle bolt 2. washer 3. brake caliper bracket 4. ??missing spacer?? 5. RH oilseal and bearing 6. etc... I seem to have too much gap on right side, and brake caliper bracket is clear to move too far?? toward wheel, bumping brake rotor bolt heads
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Dingy, still brake trouble?
bkuhr posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Had Ford Ranger front flexable brake line rubber had deteriorated and swelled. Allowed pressure from master to caliper, but caliper would not fully release pressure back toward master keeping brakes partially applied. Looked at brake line. It had swelled completely closed. Looked like big O-ring with very small center hole. Got me thinking. If your O-ring between Reservior and master was plugged due to? (pinch, swell, dirt, master pistons doesn,t fully retract...) would cause simular problem. You can force fliud thru restriction with Mity-vac, but it will not gravity feed into master chamber. If you can confirm problem is with master, I suspect 1 of 3 things 1. trapped air 2. restriction as above 3. fluid blowby around master piston Just my thoughts Brian -
I have a 2006 RSV. Does the brake pedal work the front left caliper? What is the best order for bleeding brake line?
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In the following ad, the scoot has caliper mounted lights. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/mcy/1653768301.html So, the question that has always puzzled me about such a mounting is.... wouldn't the bouncing of the wheel cause the lights to appear as though they were also bouncing, not to mention the vibration factor on the mounting bracketry. I'm sure many have seen an on-coming semi or other vehicle with their driving or fog lamps on and the things are obviously jiggling like crazy just from the roughness of the ride and the flexing of the mounting. Thoughts/comments on this?
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I need some help on the MKI to MKII brake upgrade. My rear swingarm is different on my 83 compared to my 88 donor bike The pin that the caliper bracket slides onto is a different dia. between the two models. The 83 has a smaller dia. pin on swing arm that matches the original caliper bracket. The 88 has a larger pin that is welded to the swing arm, and it matches the 88 caliper bracket. The 88 bracket, when put on the 83 swing arm flops around. What am I missing here. Bracket at top of picture is 88, bottom is 83. Hole is also slightly elongated in 88 bracket, by about .080". But there is no obvious signs of wear or fatigue. Hole is longer front to back than top to bottom. The holes are the same center line distance, picture is distorting this . Gary
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I am planning on rebuilding my front calipers as I suspect one of my brakes might be dragging. I pulled the calipers out and upon inspection the pistons were as smooth as can be except for the small section that sticks out of the caliper while in the normal position. Running my finger across them I can feel that they are a little rough. Some of it is just dirt and some might be actual damage to the piston itself. My question is: How much pitting is okay in the caliper piston before it ought to be replaced? It appears that any roughness in the piston itself remains outside the caliper when a set of fresh pads are installed therefore I would presume that it is fine to go ahead and not replace these and just polish them as much as possible before reinstalling in the rebuilt caliper. I have included a few pictures of what I am looking at here - I know it is a little hard to tell, but it was pretty much the best I could do. Also, is there anything else I ought to be checking for on these? I did notice more dirt build up on one of the caliper's pistons than the other, which leads me to believe that something is wrong with that particular caliper (ie leaky seal or something like that). Thanks for putting up with my dumb questions... -
Hi all! A new member here with a question for the guys who know. I unseized the pistons, cleaned the calipers, polished the bores and pistons with 2000 Wet O Dry but I think the seals are shot. I actually believe them to be the originals. Haha. The Question: Where do you get your caliper rebuild kits and what do they come with, IE: pins, pistons, dust seals, etc? Any details would help! Chris -
Just put an e3 tire on the 86 and have been having fits getting the wheel back on. I get it back in the splines on the pumkin but do not have enough room after putting the caliper bracket or push rod back on to place the washer between it and the swingarm. Can't figure out what I am doing wrong. HELP PLEAE. AND THANKS.
