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Showing results for tags 'bulbs'.
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Merry Christmas Venture family! Is it possible to get some technical advice from the electrical gurus here, I own a 08 Cadillac SRX, it has one quirk that can not seem to be solved even at the dealer! The daytime running light bulbs will burn out repeatedly . Sometimes within a week of replacing them. When that happens the signal lights will flash fast and the rear LED taillights will do all kinds of weird things. I just replaced the bulbs last week and they went out again. Both rear taillights will flash when I turn on the right or left signal and the brakes are applied. The systems are all tied together in the computer and all the research tells me its the cars way of telling me the bulbs are burned out. I have changed the bulb sockets as suggested by GM replaced the bulbs cleaned and checked the sockets and plugs. All the other lights are operational. To change the bulbs one has to remove the front wheels and take the complete inner fender off to get at the housing for the bulbs. To do both sides it can take a couple of hours. who in the world designed this? On to my question, can I replace these bulbs with a LED and hook some kind of resistor inline to fool the computer into believing it has a incandescent bulb in it? Kind of like the battery probe mod on my 1st gen? How would I find the right resistor to use ? From what I have found online the bulbs get hot, and the sockets get hard and cause a bad connection, high resistance and the element will burn out. I am not sure if the DRLs can be disabled and have everything else work as it should. Im at a loss. I wanted to sell the car but I sure would feel bad if a new owner had the problem and it caused a wreck because of the signal lights. Any ideas?
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I have a 2012 RSV, and I'm having a problem with the passing lights. The right side will go off and come back on at random times going down the road. Has anyone experienced this problem? Both bulbs are new and still do the same thing. Thanks for any help.
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Hi Guys, I'm in the process of upgrading to LED bulbs on one of 86 Venture Royals. I have already converted the headlight and it sure makes a difference. I have read several articles and forum posts of guys who have already done this and there have been several references made to "Jumper the CMU for headlight, running, and brake lights" so the dash warning indicator isn't constantly lit due to the CMU thinking there is a bulb burnt out caused by the greatly reduce electrical draw from the more efficient LED bulbs. Although there is very detailed info about converting to LED's, I have not been able to find details of what the steps are to perform this "Jumper on the CMU". Any experts out there who have already performed this "jumper" process on the CMU that could point me in the right direction of which solder points I need to jumper for Headlight and Brake lights? Thanks in advance! -
12997.1 I bought a pair of the Custom Dynamics 162 LED Passing light replacement Bulbs while I was home on R&R. I tried to install them with no luck. My issue with them is that they will not stay in the housings. I have the H-3 bulbs in them and not the actual par 36 lamp. Custom Dynamics says they will fit both housings. Has anyone had a problem installing these replacement lights? I did not have time to call CD for technical support. A friend of mine is going to attempt to install them for me. Any guidance or assistance will be appreciated. Gunner -
Yamaha passing lights... where in Elyria/Oberlin can I get a 7616 bulb on Saturday ? One of my bulbs went on the way down. Don
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Anyone... seen these? or tried them? http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/led-h4-high-low.html Or better... are they simply for "Aux" lights?
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OK so I have been searching around looking for info on LED bulbs for the turnsignals and also the brake. What I would like to know is if you use the replacement type looking LED bulbs do you still have to put the special flasher units, resistors, controller or whatever in the mix? And I thought I read somewhere that the auto cancel function dont work with the LED's either. Something like this. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDIzWDQ0MA==/$(KGrHqN,!oME9c54uKu(BPr+S840(g~~60_1.JPG
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I read where the 1156 bulb would replace the rear turn signal but it doesn't seem to fit. Can someone tell me what bulbs will work form say autozone, etc? the 1156 doesn't have the offset pins like the stock bulb. Thanks for any assistance..
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I went for a ride today and all of a sudden when I put the left turn signal on it was very dim so I thought I had a bulb out but it would work normal sometimes so when I got home I turned it on the the bulbs would not flash but the taillight would flash. I suppose there is some control box that works it all and this is leaning me more to the Kawi and selling the VR.
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I have a set of Yamaha Driving Lites and would like to replace the sealed beam bulbs with Halogen or better sealed beam bulbs. I would like to keep the wattage down to 35/36 watts. I have looked at some sites and they have them but they show flood, wide flood, spot, narrow spot, etc. Which kind is the best for the driving lights. Can you please advise what type you think I should be looking for. I am basically looking for the best light possible with a straight replacement lamp and still using the Yamaha lite bar holders. I have searched the sites and have sent a private message to one of our members but I know technology changes daily and possibly someone has tried something lately that works well. Thanks Dana
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I took my Roadstar lights when I bought my venture, the bulbs are 55 watts, are they drawing too much power? or are the the right wattage for the Venture? I'm thinking of going to a lower wattage bulb, because of all the lights I have on the back of the bike, and for the extra lights I have on the trailer. (4 3 candle watt bulbs as runners) & the LED run, brake, & turn on the back. How many watts am I pulling when I'm running the radio, 3 head lights, and pulling the trailer? and what is the Max out put on the system?
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off of work for two-three weeks so i'll be asking alot of questions.on the harley light bar hd-68280-97b,has anyone switched to led bulbs and if so what all dose it involve?
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I recently purchased a used Roto Cover. I took it all apart and cleaned it up nicely including all the electric contacts. Each side has 2 pushin light bulbs. When putting it back together I noticed that the light bulbs have some differences. I've included a picture of the light bulbs. One has a blue dot in the center and a blacker tip where it pushes into the socket. My question is, are the differences of any concerns as to which one goes into which socket. A 2nd picture is attached of the sockets. One of the sockets has an extra wire that I think is the ground.
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Im in the process of putting led light strips in the rear trunk light bar on my 91 vr. It is already wired for running ,brake , and turn signal. Im replaceing the incandescent bulbs with light strips to save on some electrical draw. Not sure if Ill replace the turn bulbs or not as they are only on briefly. I have arleady replaced the running bulbs with 2 12 inch superbright led strips. Going to replace the brake bulbs with the same size srtips. Here is the Question. Since its already wired for brake lights in there, is there a flasher module I can put inline to make the strips for the brake lights falsh instead of being solid or at least flash a few times before they go solid. Any help will be apreciated. TAhnks in advance David -
Turned on my bike today and my lamps didnt come on....Bulbs?
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Once again I am faced with dreaded electrical issues. After successfully upgrading my fuse box (Thanks Skydoc and GeorgeS) I was feeling confident to tear apart the dash and replace all dash light bulbs and solder CMU (in way over my head with the CMU now) anyway I notice some of the bulbs are very dim and burn for a bit when key is first turn on but then flicker out. I have turned the dimmer knob up and down and although it does affect the bulbs that are lit normal it does not affect the dim lit bulbs. I would think if there was a bad ground all the bulbs would be affected, but I am far from knowing electrical issues. On a side note, anyone know of a good soldering person here in WA state? I have CMU out and apart but I am not sure I see any issues. But the battery light jumper wire MOD is not working and the gear indicator will go in and out on occasion. But other than those two issues the digital display works fine. http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/Dash_Bulb.jpg -
Replacing dash lights with LEDs
asigetic posted a topic in Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical
I have installed all bulbs including the dash bulbs with LED's and I can say that it was worth every penny because the load on the battery has changed from 15 amps to around 2 amps with a inductive amp meter wrapped around the ground side to see the diff. Jumper the CMU for running and brake lights and installed a 50watt 6 ohm load resistor kit on the let and right side to trick the turn signal relay just enough to have it flash. Will post pictures tomorrow of what I did and if any body needs the info on what bulbs went where I can send that to you. The total cost was around $130.00 for every bulb and the two load resistor kits. Now on to the rest of the bike to finale finish her up and give it a ride.. -
I have installed all bulbs including the dash bulbs with LED's and I can say that it was worth every penny because the load on the battery has changed from 15 amps to around 2 amps with a inductive amp meter wrapped around the ground side to see the diff. Jumper the CMU for running and brake lights and installed a 50watt 6 ohm load resistor kit on the let and right side to trick the turn signal relay just enough to have it flash. Will post pictures tomorrow of what I did and if any body needs the info on what bulbs went where I can send that to you. The total cost was around $130.00 for every bulb and the two load resistor kits. Now on to the rest of the bike to finale finish her up and give it a ride..
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I am looking for a part # for the front T/S bulb on mt 2007 RSV. I have the rear T/S, and brake bulbs but I need to find the LED bulbs for the front. these bulbs have 3 indexing pins spaced 120 degrees apart instead of 2 at 180 degrees.
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I had to replace a burned out bulb for my passing lamps and was reminded what a junky set up they are. Has anyone replaced the passing light buckets with something better? Perhaps something that can be adjusted without removing the bulbs? I'm good for another year or so until these bulbs burn out but I wouldn't mind finding a better set up to mount on my light bar.
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I believe the wedge bulbs that are in the Venture Line trunk and bag light bars, 1st Edition anyway, are 194's. Has anyone found a good source for buying these bulbs. The only outlet I can find is superbrightleds.com and each bulb from them is 1.98. I need only 24 of these things and really don't think they are worth $2 each. Any other recommended sources? Thanks MG Type of wedge bulb above corrected from 198 to 194.
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I am trying to bring 83 Venture back to life. I have pretty much done most of the major stuff but I have not figured out how to get into the dash to replace 3 bulbs. Is it necessary to remove the dash or can the bulbs be replaced without removing the dash. It seem like a lot of trouble to remove the dash.
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Where can I get brighter dash bulbs... L E D bulbs ? Site and numbers will help. thank you cb
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For years it was believed that electric bulbs emitted light. However, recent information has proven otherwise. Electric bulbs do not emit light, they suck dark. Thus we will now call these bulbs dark suckers. The dark sucker theory, according to a spokesperson, proves the existence of dark, that dark has a mass heavier than light, and that dark is faster than light. The basis of the dark sucker theory is that electric bulbs suck dark. Take for example the dark suckers in the room where you are. There is less dark right next to them than it is elsewhere. The larger the dark sucker, the greater its capacity to suck dark. Dark suckers in a parking lot have a much greater capacity than the ones in this room. As with all things dark suckers don't last forever. Once they are full of dark they can no longer suck. This is proven by the black spot on a full dark sucker. A candle is a primitive dark sucker. A new candle has a white wick. You will notice that after the first use, the wick turns black, representing all the dark which has been sucked into it. If you hold a pencil next to the wick of an operating candle, the tip will turn black because it got in the way of the dark flowing into the candle. Unfortunately, today's primitive dark suckers have a very limited range. There are also portable dark suckers. These bulbs can't handle all of the dark themselves, and must be aided by a dark storage unit. When the dark storage unit is full, it must be either emptied or replaced before the portable dark sucker can operate again. Dark has mass. When dark goes into a dark sucker, friction from this mass generates heat. Thus it is not wise to touch an operating dark sucker. Candles present a special problem, as the dark must travel in the solid wick instead of through glass. This generates a great amount of heat. Thus it can be very dangerous to touch an operating candle. Dark is also heavier than light. If you swim deeper and deeper, you notice it gets slowly darker and darker. When you reach approximately fifty feet, you are in total darkness. This is because the heavier dark sinks to the bottom of the lake and the lighter light floats to the top. The immense power of the dark can be utilized to man's advantage. We can collect the dark that has settled to the bottom of lakes and push it through turbines which generates electricity and helps push dark to the ocean, where it may be safely stored. Prior to turbines, it was much more difficult to get dark from rivers and lakes to the ocean. The Indians recognized this problem and tried to solve it. When on a river in a canoe traveling in the same direction as the flow of dark, they paddled slowly, so as not to stop the flow of dark, but when they traveled against the flow of dark, they paddled quickly so as to help the dark along its way. Finally we must prove that dark is faster than light. If you were to stand in an illuminated room in front of a closed, dark closet, then slowly open the closet door, you would see the light slowly enter the closet, but since dark is so fast, you would not be able to see the dark leave the closet. In conclusion, it has been stated that dark suckers make our lives much easier, so the next time you look at an electric bulb, remember that it is indeed a dark sucker.
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Has anyone had any experience with these "combo" replacement bulbs. http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_led_bulbs.htm They can be wired so they are become running lights, extra brake lights as well as signals. But what about the amber lenses? doesn't that mess it up? I really want to increase the visibility at the rear end of my 83 VR If anyone has other suggestions, including what and how to for light bars etc I'm all ears!
