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Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
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A month ago I posted how after bleeding brakes on the 83 Venture the brakes locked up on the test drive and had no play in pedal. The bike is at a friends and he just got back from 3 weeks in Florida so I got to work on it for the first time today. First I adjusted the brakes so I had free play in the pedal. Took for test drive and after using the brakes twice the rear and left front locked up again. Took bleeder wrench so cracked rear caliper bleeder, released pressure and didn't touch brakes until I got back. Two or three hits on the brakes and locked up again. Now this time took a small hammer and tapped on master and brakes released somewhat. Now the master was already taken apart and cleaned. So I believe the problem is with master cylinder. So the questions are. Should the master be talking apart and cleaned again or should I look for another master cylinder? And is it agreed the Master cylinder is the most likely reason for the lock ups? Thank You.
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Has anyone tried these brake pads from Buckeye Performance? Are they easy to put on on the front? http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/images/brakepads.jpg
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called the dealer and asked how much for brakes he told me $50 per hour and the brakes would cost $40 bucks and thats not the yamaha brand does that sound right or not?
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I took the new to me 87 venture out for the second time today. The first time I took it out I knew that the brakes were less than adequate. So after cleaning everything up, took her out again. I was cruising along at about 70mph,gave the brakes a quick test and they felt much better. All of a sudden the front wheel locked up, violently skidding from one side of the road to the other I somehow managed to hold onto it and get her pulled to the side of the road where I had to then call a buddy and get it trailered home. What in the he@#! do you guys think could have caused this? Now I am a little gun shy to take it back out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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If you are going to be doing any work on your brakes, before you go for a test ride, make sure you have an 8mm or 5/16 wrench with you. If for some reason your brakes start getting hot, a quick temporary fix is to release the brake bleed and relieve the pressure. I keep reading where people work on the brakes and go for a ride and it either gets gets hot or locks up and they are stranded until they can get someone to bring a trailer and wrestle it up on it. Another thing I am seeing is people with a brake pedal that is sticking or not coming back to the correct stop and not bleeding back into the reservoir, causing the same problem. RandyA
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After bleeding the brakes on my 83 Venture took bike out of garage and let it run about 10 minutes to get warmed up. Test rode about 3 miles (was raining) and pulled back in. Brakes worked great but felt pedal getting tighter and tighter. After getting back could hardly push bike forward. Put on center stand and could hardly turn front and rear wheels by hand. Left bike alone about an hours and brakes released somewhat. I had read to leave brake reservoir low for heat expansion. I only left it about a 1/2 inch low. Could it of heated the brake fluid that much in such a short amount of time? And do I need to take more fluid out of reservoir? Or do I have to look for another problem? Thank You....Karl
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Front brakes on my 89 are due for replacement. I'd like to beef them up. I've always thought they were a little weak. I don't want to put stainless steel lines on as that seems a little expensive. Are there brake pads that are better than others like from Buckeye for instance? Also, my mechanic tells me that when he has test driven it and brakes, particularly with just the right hand brake, there is a surging uneven braking action. I have felt this too. He says that it is because the rotor may be warped. I don't want to buy a rotor but would buy a used one. Looks like they go for about $50 plus s&h. Any ideas? Iowa Guy
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Hello, I have a 1989 venture, 87,000 miles. Bought it couple of months ago. Noticed when I apply brakes, the volt meter drops down almost to the yellow line. When I release, it comes back up past 12. It had trailer wiring on it which I removed thinking that was the problem. Gauge still drops down. Pulled the connector for the rear tail lights and turn signals and applied brakes and still drops down. Disconnected foot brake switch and applied front brake, with connector to rear lights still disconnected and needle still drops. Is it possible that the switches are bad and causing the drop in voltage when I apply the brakes? Thanks for the responses in advance. Ya'll have a good Holiday and a Happy New Year. -
Can anyone tell me what must I do to eliminate the anti dive system on my 83 Venture? I'm also interested in de-linking the brakes and would appreciate any feedback on this too. Thanks! Tim http:http://www.kloppenberg.us/motorbiketim -
Going to install brake, clutch and throttle stainless steel lines and would like to know of anything I might run into thats going to give me problems, spent 2 hours reading post about bleeding the clutch and brakes, read so many different ways and problems got me wondering how bad it's going to be (and confused). Any guidance and what tools I will need would be greatly appreciated -
My new to me 90 Venture seems to have fairly weak front brakes. The rear aren’t to bad but the front could really use some help. In reading some old posts it looks like the fix is to replace the front with calipers from a R1 or R6 and/or upgrade to stainless brake lines. And de-linking the brakes. For a novice like me, swapping the calipers looks like it would be a straight forward task. Replacing the brake lines would be a bigger job and de-linking the brakes bigger still. So my question, would just replacing the calipers make much of a difference? Will any year R1 or R6 calipers work? Do the rotors need to be replaced along with the calipers? Do the brakes need to be de-linked when upgrading? I’m thinking of upgrading in stages and seeing what helps. Thanks, Al
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I have ordered new brake pads to install this weekend on my 07 RSV (30k miles). I noticed that on the front brakes, the inside pads appear almost new while the outside pads are very close to the wear indicator. I know that this seems to be normal on the rear brakes but............. 1. Is this normal on the front brakes? and 2. Can I reuse the 2 good pads (1 from either side) on 1 caliper and just install new pads on the other side? I have ordered a full set of pads for front and rear so having parts is not an issue, but if I can save a set for next time that would be good too.
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Hey guy's I've been riding in the Seattle rain quite a bit lately and am finding out that my brakes barely want to slow me down:shock3:. I even resorted to draging my feet once. Seems my pads don't want to grab unless I continuly pump the brakes while driving antisapating a red light or sudden stop. The brakes work fine in the dry just have issues when raining. Any HELP? Thanks Chris (Rainier Rider) 86royale -
Thought you might find this interesting. Study: Antilocks Trim Fatal Motorcycle Crashes WASHINGTON (AP)--Antilock brakes could help motorcycle riders avoid fatal crashes, according to a study by the insurance industry. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety said Wednesday that the fatal crash rate involving motorcycles equipped with optional antilock brakes, or ABS, was 38 percent lower than the rate involving similar motorcycles without the systems. Antilock brakes, like their counterparts on cars and trucks, help motorcycle riders stop their bikes abruptly without locking up the wheels or fishtailing. The system evaluates the brake pressure multiple times per second, allowing motorcycle riders to fully brake both wheels in an emergency situation and avoid hitting the pavement. Antilocks are more typically found on touring bikes and have been available on a limited number of motorcycles since BMW AG introduced ABS on the K100 in 1988. "Even though adding antilocks won't make motorcycling as safe as going by car, it's something manufacturers can do to reduce the risk of traveling on two wheels instead of four," said Adrian Lund, president of the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Rob Dingman, president and CEO of the American Motorcyclist Association, said the study shows the potential of antilock brakes, but it also underscores the need for a "long-overdue" federal study of the causes of motorcycle crashes. "Our members would welcome an ABS option on more models, but there must be a broader strategy to reduce motorcycle accidents and fatalities that includes increased education and motorist awareness," Dingman said. Safety officials have been concerned about a steady rise in motorcycle deaths. More than 5,100 motorcyclists died in 2007, compared with 2,294 fatalities in 1998. The deaths have climbed as vehicle miles traveled have grown by more than 20 percent during the period and motorcycle registrations have surpassed 6 million, compared with 3.8 million in 1998. In the report, researchers studied eight motorcycles that offer antilock brakes as an option. They found there were 6.6 fatal crashes per 10,000 registered motorcycles without antilocks in 2005-2006. The rate for the same bikes equipped with antilocks was 4.1, or 38 percent lower, during the same period. In a second study, the IIHS found that antilock brakes appeared to reduce collision claims — insurance losses were 21 percent lower for motorcycles with antilock brakes compared with similar motorcycles without the equipment. The findings were based on a data set of 72,000 insured years of 2003-2007 model year Honda, Suzuki, Triumph and Yamaha bikes. IIHS said antilocks were standard or optional equipment on about 40 motorcycles from the 2008 model year; top manufacturers include BMW, Harley-Davidson Inc., and Honda Motor Co. ABS typically adds about $1,000 or more to the cost of a motorcycle. Ty van Hooydonk, the Motorcycle Industry Council's director of product communications, said ABS can be effective for some riders but it depends on factors such as road conditions, skill level and the type of riding involved. "For a number of experienced enthusiasts out there, they're able to stop with a non-ABS motorcycle quicker than they are with an ABS-equipped motorcycle," van Hooydonk said. "It's all very situational." Ray Zimmerman, executive director of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, said ABS could be very valuable when trying to bring a bike to a stop on slick and icy roads. Zimmerman, of Ellisville, Mo., said he has been riding motorcycles for more than four decades and logged nearly 250,000 miles on BMW motorcycles. His ABS system has come in handy on two occasions, and he's glad he had it. "You keep a bike from swerving out of control one time, and it's worth (it)," he said.
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Any suggestions? (PLEASE don't say grease them.... :-) -
I have tried taking the front calipers apart and cleaning them. Now what is the secret to bleeding them? Thanks, Kevin -
Question re: 2nd Gen Speed Bleeders
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Need to know what size/part number for 2nd Generation Speed Bleeders and how many of each for: 2nd Gen Brakes... 2nd Gen Clutch... Thanks in advance!!! -
Hey guys, Just an update. I now have all the new parts on my bike. The mechanic showed me the back brakes and the inner side of them was "metal to metal!" Now wonder it didn't stop correctly. Probably the reason I went down. Cost over $8000.00 for all the replacements pieces. They even put on a full "Bubs" exhaust system and I really think it's running better. I just rode the bike 160 miles through some tough Kentucky mountain backroads and it did just fine. My brakes on had 14,000 miles so be sure to keep a check on them. I know I will from now on. My bike is just like new and I had a great time on it today. Eddie Flinchum Winchester, Ky.
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1983 venture. Front right brake = work perfect! back brakes and left front = nothing. Bled the front left, squirts out brake fluid. Bled back, squirts out fluid. Did that for about an hour, nothing. petal goes all the way down. Came here and read everything i could find about 1st gen brakes.. seems others had this problem also.. found there is supposed to be a bleeder up by the forks? took off front fairing. Found what apears to be a valve up under there? No bleeder looking thing like i saw in a pic just a bolt? what the heck! bled that too, about 8oz of fluid.. Breaks still go all the way down.. bled front and back again.. all squirt real good. Brake still all the way down.. no stopage (that a word?) at all when i roll it back and forth. :crying: so 3+ hours of bleeding and about 16oz of fluid and still no brakes? Am i doing it wrong? i have bleed brake on a car before but never a bike, and never a linked system like this.. What do i do next? Help! lol
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Everyone knows that the brakes on a Venture and Road Star sound like hell after a while.. noisy, metal on metal noise and no matter what you do, the dealer tells you it's normal and you learn to live with it.. Mine was making that noise and it really bothered me to the point that I would not use the front brakes when pulling into a crowder parking lot.. I took someone's advice and attempted to use some squeal remover compound behind the brake shim but ran into a problem where one of the 4 retainers looked damaged.. (there are 2 per caliper on which the brake pad shoulders slide back and forth across, sorry can't remember the proper nomenclature).. However, the part looked like it was making contact with the disk.. When I put everything back together again, the sound was even worse but you could actually see how it was cutting into the disk now. So I ordered new ones.. at $20 each.. sheeesh!! hopefully gold plated but no.. Anyway, long story short, new pads, new shims, and new clips and the front brakes are quieter than a squished bug on your windshield. Most likely a combo of new shims and pads.. However, if your brakes are making more than the normal amount of noise, give these parts a look-see.. you never know.. Cheers
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I'm sorry to report I crashed my 2007 RSV on Monday in Pineville, Ky. Myself and 5 of my buddies were returning home fm a 4 day(1500 mile) trip and was within 2 hours of home when it happened. A lady crossed 2 southbound lanes to enter the norhbound lane we were in and caused 4 automobiles and 2 bikes to crash. She didn't even get a scratch on her vehicle. I'm so mad I could spit. She was cited for "driver inattention and no proof of insurance. My bike is in the shop and I'll find out in a couple days if it was totalled or not. My buddies bike, which my bike hit, is a ultra classic and probably sustained 2000 dollars damage. I don't have any broken bones due to wearing all my gear. My helmet saved my life and my boots and armored jacket kept me relatively free fm broken bones and very little road rash. I've been off work for 2 days because I'm so sore, even in places I didn't know I had, ha ha. I have to tell you my brakes "locked-up" and I skidded which is why I went down. I had no option but to hit the brakes hard. Yamaha needs to fix these brakes and they'd have an even greater bike. I don't know if I'll continue riding this bike because if my wife had been with me she would've become a projectile. In closing, I just want to remind you to wear your gear, even if it is hot and be careful. There's a lot of stupid people out there and stupid does hurt!!! You guys are great!! Eddie Flinchum--Winchester, KY.
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Some of the reviews say the brakes are the weak point on the 2005+ RS. Can they be upgraded to, say, Brembos, or anything? Thanks Jim
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I've spent the better part of the night trying to bleed these blasted rear brakes! Fluid will seep out all bleeders but will not build pressure. There's no telling how many brakes I've bled but this is the first that wore me completely out. I retired at 50 so I could spend my golden years riding...not bleeding brakes. Any suggestions? P-L-E-A-S-E.................
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I tryed.. -
Now that I'm going thru the process of cleaning the carbs with seafoam its time to tackle problem # 2: Brakes Before I took the 84 off the road last year the brakes were spongie and leaked fluid. Now the fluid leaked out somehwere on the handlebar down the side of the fairing. In reading the posts it looks like the next step is to break it all down and flush and clean the entire system First question: do I start high and work towards the back of the bike? When removing the hand lever/resovoir, what's the best way to clean it all? is there some kind of solvent. I read blowing out with air is good too Thanks in advance Jim
