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Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
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Many thanks and a tip of the helmet to Bob for donating a rear master brake cylinder for my 83 Venture, what I wasn't expecting was something that looked like it came straight from the factory, if Bob hadnt told me it was rebuilt, I would have thought it was brand spanking new, I now have brakes, not the greatest, but have rear brakes again, next step will be the stainless steel brake lines front and back, that will be a great improvement, its not 100% yet but its getting there. Still waiting on the carb diaphragms from Sirius, they should be here sometime next week. Once again the members here are fantastic, couldnt ask for a nicer bunch of people, always willing to help out another. Thanks again Bob, since you wont let me pay you for it, I will be making a donation to the St. Jude fund.
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i installed skydocs ss kit and delink...whew!...now i cant cant brakes bled. help?! -
The radial brake conversion is now a reality !! I received the machined brackets from Bob Meyers (member here) today. Very nice machine work at a very good price for a single set prototypes. They mounted on the bike perfectly. My day job is a mechanical design engineer. I have the CAD tools at home to be able to design & get plastic prototypes made for this conversion. The calipers came from a came off a 2011 R1, with 45 miles on it, they upgraded brakes on it. Not wrecked and in perfect condition. Squeeze convinced me this was the way to go if I wanted something better than the R1 4 pot calipers that I had on the bike. Rotors are 298mm x 5mm from a 2003 FJR. I went through 2 versions of a rapid prototype that the local high school did for me at a decent price. Calipers & brackets have been run through a CAD FEA software package that calculates stresses on a part and determines its suitability for a given application. Original thread on this process if you are interested, started out going to use a set of YZF calipers. Never mounted them. This is the 4th set of brakes that has been on the bike. Stock set, MKII set, 2000 R1 quad pistons, and now 2011 R1 six piston radials. Needless to say, but the brakes are delinked. Rear end is a modified under slung VMax setup that was required to use when the VMax 15" rim was mounted on last winter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65445 Have a few more minor tasks to get done & bike will be ready to go. This winter has seen the full V-boost controller added, Marks header, upgraded brakes, painted yellow, rear speakers, replaced some less than perfect body panels with better ones, VMax front wheel, some powder coating, accent LED lighting and other tasks done to it. Hopefully, I haven't crossed that fine line between great brakes and to much brakes !!! Gary -
well it finally happened, getting ready to go to work friday morning last second decision to take the car instead of the bike"thank god", about a 1/2 mile outta town doing 55mph he jumped right in front of me, I barely had time to hit the brakes. All i could think of is thank god I wasn't on the bike because it would have been real bad.
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Since I have found the button to make a "new thread" I will copy what was said before I ask my next question.... chrislemon I had no back brakes and so I replaced all the cylinders in my rear caliper in the fall. Now that it is spring I see I still don't have rear brakes. Upon further investigation it looks like I am getting lots of air when bleeding the back brakes but still no pressure on the back brakes and yet the front is doing great and the fluid reservoir burbs when I apply the front brakes. When I cracked the line going into my rear calipers and apply the back brake I did not get a surge of fluid coming out. What should I check now? PS I can't seem to find where the metering valve is located either (how to get to it) bongobobny Now, chances are you probably have a plugged up proportioning valve which is attached to the rear of the rear master cylinder. The metering valve, on the other hand is attached to the frame towards the front by the battery along with another bleeder as there is a high point in the lines and air can get trapped there. Due to the fact you are saying the front brake works fine there should be nothing wrong with that as the metering valve only works with the front brakes... chrislemon Now my question is "where is the rear master cylinder"? I would think its the brake reservoir on the handlebars but I don't have anything attached to it. If it is in another location than that tells me I am also bleeding my rear brakes and filling the front brake reservoir. Sometimes its just better to leave things to a mechanic(go ahead and have a good laugh at my expense). PS When I do find this proportioning valve, do I just blow it out to unplug it? Thanks Newbie
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I took my first test ride today after doing this years round of repairs, up grades and modifications. New Dunlop E-3's front and back thanks to Two brothers Motorcycle tires in Lawrenceville Ga. New Starter clutch Thanks to Dano New programable TCI Thanks to Dingy New HO Stator from Rick at Buckeye Performance Getting it cranked due to the suggestion from 09RSTD to turn the petcock on. The bike runs good but the brakes are a little spongee and un responsive. I forgot how much of a PITA bleeding the brakes are. The front brake fluid resevoir screws stripped, had to drill out, trip to Lowe's for 2 4mm x .7 beveled head screws. Going back out there for some more pump,pump,bleed,pump,pump,bleed,pump,pump,bleed,fill, fill, pump,pump,bleed, pump, pump, ble................................................Arrrrrg again -
Front Brake question...
2007royalmidnight posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Hello all, I have a quick question on my front brakes. I am new to my 2007 Midnight Venture, I have owned it for a few months or so. I upgraded from an 1100 Silverado. I am a Dodge Technician so I do have a mechanical background. I have noticed, 3 or 4 times, when coming to a stop with the front brakes applied, just before it comes to a complete stop it will pull slightly, has happened to the right and to the left, it is not always to the same side. My first thought is it is like only one caliper was grabbing. BUT.. plenty of bikes out there only have one caliper so that really doesn't make sense.... Both front calipers are free and grab the rotor when the lever is pulled. Pads are good. Fluid level is correct and clear in color. Steering head was properly tightened when I purchased the bike when I did the 1" lowereing of the front in the triple tree, and yes everything in the triple tree is tight and measurements are still the same. Nothing has moved. I do not have the required pump to adjust the front shock pressure and have never adjusted it, but I have put 3000-4000 miles on the bike since I bought it and I have only just noticed this so I can't see that being the issue... I have experimented with it a little and at speed it does not show any signs of strange or odd braking. This forum and its members comprise a GREAT wealth of knowledge so I figured I would see if anyone has any other idea. And yup, it's my first post. -
So my 87 is coming along. Still running poorly from sitting 2 years with old gas. Fixed the clutch yesterday so I thought a quick spin around the block was in order. Was great up to the point of needing brakes ...no rear brakes ...ANYWAYS ...sitting here talking to my son about the 87 and what color he would want it. SO...how about posting a picture of the different colors and paint schemes so he can have a visual to help in his decision .
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Anyone have a rear master brake cylinder? I bled the brakes on my first gen. Foot brake works great for a few days, then pedal will push all the way down - no resistance, no brakes. I pulled the master cyl apart and it is pitted. Anyone have any suggestions? Looks like it is obsolete. Didn't see one on ebay either. Thanks, Pete
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warm weather on the way i thought i might as well get ready to uncover the old girl. and do some cleaning. gas at $4 a gallon i think im going to ride it for a while. just to get maybe my last joy out out of it before she goes on the for sale list. someone left the key on ?? when i showed it a few weeks back:whistling: and i killed the battery. i took it to a shop to be charged and load tested. when she,s up and running and i hope i dont blow another rad hose. like last year. im going to see if i can get the rootbeer gang down here to help me get it out from behind it,s hidding place. like some folks here im not worried how the old gilr looks for now. just want a good run out of her. and if i get this small time job this summer. cutting lawns. i will be doing okay. i figure if i go for a long haul on it and something breaks on it i have towing. so i should not be afraid of trusting it any more. if she brakes down. im coverd. my knees still hurt but i think i can hadle the beast for a while. i see no reason not to ride it while it,s up for sale.. i think this is my year to enjoy it for a while or hate it if she brakes down. wish this oldgoat good luck.
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I have a friend with an 85 Goldwing, and he can't seem to Bleed the rear brakes. Any Goldwing owners have any suggestions?
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A little while back my funds were running out and Randy Atkins found a bike for me in TN that needed work but was very reasonable.I bought the bike with the help of Randy and had it shipped down here. I couldn't work on it at first because I am still recovering and the holidays were here but lately I have been able to start doing things to it as you can see in the first pic it needed a right fairing and other things done.I have since replaced the fairing and plastic to the class and CB, changed the oil to Amsoil, flushed the brakes and clutch,replaced the headlight and I have both front and back tires mounted and balanced ready to go on, I had them for my other bike.It still needs more work but it is getting there.I have managed to make a mess in my driveway. Tom
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As much as I hate it. I think its time to take the 91 to the dealor. I am at my wits end here. I love this bike so selling it is not an option and it cant be all that bad . What Im dealing with is the rear brakes. I installed new pads and a new to me rear end in it and now it keeps leaking brake fluid. Add brake fluid to it and it pumps up and I have good brakes. They pulse but stop well. After a fw hrs riding the durned warning light goes off and sure enough its low on fluid again. I cant find the leak so I guess its off to the dealor for a check. Hopefully its simple as Im not cofortable on just front brakes. DAvid -
Last winter, I was simply going to put new rotors on and replace my brake pads on my 83 VR. I got the wonderful idea to rebuild my calipers..( which really were not bad) as long as I was at it...Ever since then, my rear/left front brakes have been a nightmare... First bleeding them was a nightmare, but eventually got them satisfactory...but every now and then the rear pedal would get soft. I'd re bleed it and it would get somewhat better. The strange thing is as long as I was riding daily, it seemed okay...however, if I ever let the bike sit for much more than a week, I would have zero pressure and could not pump it up....fluid level is always fine in rear reservoir.. I'm obviously getting air somewhere, but how could that happen just sitting? Could it be a problem with seals on the calipers...I did have to split one of the calipers..( I know the mannual says never to do that,) but it seemed the only way to get one piston out. I really do not feel like spending all winter redoing brakes again.. it's darn messy job ...and i still prefer the integrated vs delinked brakes on this particular bike. Any great words of wisdom or ideas... Thanks Clay -
What are the thoughts on using a front brake line set up off of an RSV for the front brakes on a 1st Gen. (1983) It seems like it will work to me, but I would like to hear from the voices of experience out there. I got a set from Pinwall cycle for $18.00 shipped and it looks like it will fit. This came off of a 2000 RSV. If nothing else, lines are 17 years newer than my 83 has on it. Pictures below. Last picture is of one caliper ends and the master cylinder end. I will need to fabricate a bracket to mount the coupling unit. The hose lengths look OK The angle of the master cylinder fitting is off some what. That may create a minor problem where the cover goes on under the handle bar riser. This is not a show stopper though. The caliper angles on hoses appear to be workable. The front brake lines are one of the few things I don't have off of the bike at this point. I have not measured I.D. of the ends of the hoses to check for a match yet. Is there any thing inside the center coupler unit or is it just straight piping? One the rear master cylinder, can I just block off the port that the line to the front comes out of, or is it more involved ? Gary
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On my way to work tonight I noticed a grinding noise coming from the rear brake. I thought it odd as 2 days ago I put on new rear tire, brakes pads did the lube of the splines..etc...... When I tried to stop tonight the rear brake pedal was soft, managed to get her stopped and on the side of the road. Looking at the rear brakes, I find that either I forgot to install or tighten the two bolts that hold the rear caliper in place, (they were gone). The caliper was rubbing against the rim and was making the grinding noise. I was able to limp the bike to my work but now need to get things fixed up. Anyone know what size and thread pitch the bolts are for the caliper. If it wasn't metric I could make a good guess, my metric skills are lacking. Everything looks to be in good shape, and should just be able to be bolted back in place. I will prob run a tap in the caliper to chase the threads. And should I use locktite or something similar when I bolt it back in place.
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Last Wednesday and Thursday on the way home from my rear brakes locked up on me. I had a 8mm wrench that I used to release the pressure. I was surprised to see steam coming out of the bleeder valve. I pumped the brake until fluid came out. This released the pressure enough to get me home. Friday before going to work I bled the rear brakes then rode to and from work with no issues thinking all was good now. This happened to me a month or so ago but I thought it was water in the fluid or just over filling it and bleeding them seemed to work. So Saturday my daughter asked if she could use my bike to get to work and since I can’t ride for a week (had recent surgery to remove a basal cell carcinoma from my forehead) I let her take it. I warned her about the possibility of the brakes locking up and what to do if they do. Well they locked up on her. She handled the bike just fine and got off to the side of the road. She got off the bike proceeded to take the right bag off and a Highway Patrol officer pulled up offered to help but had no real knowledge for these bikes so he just turned his lights on and positioned his vehicle to help protect her from traffic. (I would like to say thanks to that officer) She got the bag off (she noticed that it was melting and actually bubbling where it was closest to the brake caliper) released the pressure and was able to continue on to work. I am also thinking that I may need to replace my rear brake pads (probably glazed from the heat)
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Hi. My linked brakes have been weird for a while. I posted how I found the rear caliper worn and grooved which hung up one end of the pads, and I figured I had found it. I fixed that (write-up to come) and the linked brakes are better, but... When I first push the pedal, the brakes work pretty well and the pedal is pretty firm. But if I let up a little (maybe 1/8"?) and push again, as sometimes happens when you stop gradually, the pedal drops considerably, sometimes all the way down and I get very little braking until I let the pedal all the way up and push it again. This "resets" them and they work fine again. I don't think this sounds like air in the system as that should always cause a squishy pedal that gets a little firmer with pumping. That's not what's happening. I'm thinking a bad master cylinder - do you agree? I don't understand the metering and proportioning valves very well, so I dunno if one of those could be the culprit. FYI, I thoroughly bled the system with a Mity Vac at the rear, front and metering valve locations. Help! Thanks, Jeremy
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Saturday I rode the Dragon, what a blast.... While I was pulling into the resort I lost my rear brakes. I was telling my buddie who was with me I lost my rear brakes and the gentleman who was doing the pin stripping and sewing on patches overheard what I was telling my friend told me that I had obviously boiled my brakes and he suggested doing a fluid change to Motul 5.1 brake fluid. He was a wealth of knowledge and then he proceded to show me his RSV. He pulls a 1000 lb trailer daily through the Dragon and said he had changed his fluid to the 5.1 and has had no problems since. Looking for thoughts about changing from the DOT 4 fluid to the 5.1. He said it has a higher temp rating and that it would solve any issues I would ever have with hot brakes. Now that this has happened should I am going to flush and replace my fluid since it is now black and was wondering if I should do a rear pad change as well? Also was wondering is there anyone in the Nashville/Murfreesboro Tennessee area that knows how and has the equipment to help sync my carbs?
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Well to make a long story short Mini has been buying me parts for the blonde sine I first left for the sandbox and I started using them this week.Got the bike running for the first time since 2008 and started with the parts installations put 2 new EBC rotors on a spare front wheel took the caliper off the 84 gotta have good brakes.and I rebuilt the starter.still have a loooong way to go before she hits the road but didnt keep me from doing a few laps in the yard today with a nekkid bike just to feel the power and true comfort of a first gen:banana::banana:. It wont be long till the wing gets sold just want to have the Blonde ready to terrorize the roads with. I will try to keep yall updated but the more I get to play with her the more I want to do to make her road worthy I forgot how much I really love the 83.And I have to make the rear brakes work that will be a first for me all the brakes on the blonde working at the same time LOL Gotta go still have a pile of parts about 3 feet high to put on her. Jeff
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I am getting ready to change brakes on the RSV , Just wanted to get some input on what kind of brakes to buy. What would you guys suggest ?
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Well I took the frt brakes off last night because my wife said she heard a noise while we were in Cody. Turns out the brake pads were fine about 3/16" on each side.:banana: Pads looks like sintered pads to me and they looked like metal. Hard as heck. Blew out the calipers and pads, sanded the face of the pads and reinstalled. While I had the pads off I compressed the pistons to make the installation easier. it was, but when I applied the frt brakes there was nothing. Keep pumping the brakes and it got real solid like it should be. I am thinking that the noise was just the normal light draging of the pads on the rotor. They seem to be floating caliper so I was not concerned. Rode it in this morning and the brakes were never so solid. Being hard of hearing in top and bottom ranges, I never heard any noise from the brakes. Headed to Madison in the morning to meet up with wife and grandkids, I am stopping by EagleEye's on the way down he is about 20 or so miles from Madison. Yupper is hidding out there also with his wife so it will be nice to see them. Have a great weekend and keep the shinny side up. Bubber
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I'm thinking of delinking the brakes on my '83 Venture and I got questions. I know it would be best to replace the master cylinder to handle the extra volume of the second front caliper, but money is tight. Can it be done using the stock master cylinder. What would the disadvantages of using the stock master cylinder. I imagine I would need to apply more pressure on the lever, but I think can live with that. The main reason I want to delink is I have floorboards on the bike and to operate the brake peddle I need to pick my foot up off the floorboard and step on the peddle. I don't feel comfortable with this setup. I am also use to riding bikes without linked brakes. I am considering replacing the floorboards with OE pegs, but that is currently not in the budget. -
I've been bleeding the rear/front brakes for a week and still not much difference.Today I did it again...and if I "pump "them up ,I have good brakes until I get stopped...but when I go to use the foot brake again,say within a block,...NOTHING!!!(or very little). There's no leaks...replaced all brake pads (used kevlar pads) rebuilt rear caliper...put speed bleeders all around..Disc thickness is .331 (plenty thick) ran a 1/2 qt of fluid thru the system????? It did feel like the brakes were fading off as I held them down...(This is on my 84 venture)The only thing I can think of next is to rebuild/replace the rear master cyl.The repair manual says to replace the proportioning valve when yor rebuild the master cyl...anyone else have this much trouble?????
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