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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
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Does anybody have any suggestions on how to turn off this thing? I've got new pads front and rear, new rear rotor, new prestone 3 fluid, no air, lots of brake power. I still cant get the light to go out.Although it doesnt really bother me, I would rather the thing come on and tell me if there was a real problem.
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Dash computer is shot! Does anybody know how to completely bypass the dash computer. I have bypassed the headlight and the taillight but I can't figure out the brake lights. I jumped the pin connector for the head light and tail light but I am having trouble finding the right combination for a brake light jump across the connector. Any help would be appreciated and would get me back on the road. Thanks, Derek -
Just wondering if anyone has a rear brake pedal laying around that would fit a 99 Venture. It does not matter if the arm is bent some. I would like to experiment with adding to the pedal to make it a little longer. Thanks. I'm going to check ebay as well. Spotsy
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The “Butler Mod” Installation Instructions Click on pictures to see larger versions. The components of this device are basically a Galfer steel braided brake line attached to a Speedway Motors compact adjustable proportioning valve (APV). The technical name for this is a “flow control valve” and it will allow you to "fine tune" the rear brake system and thus prevent severe rear brake lockup under moderate-to-heavy braking. If you can replace your OEM rear brake line with a steel braided replacement brake line then you can easily install this line. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image002.jpg So let’s start first by evacuating the brake fluid. Take the lid off of the reservoir and then either use a MityVac at the bleed valve on the caliper to suck out the fluid or attach a clear hose that will empty into a bottle or other container, and pump the brake pedal until the reservoir is empty. Now you can disconnect the brake line from the caliper and the master cylinder. At the caliper, remove the 12mm banjo bolt and use a rag to catch and brake fluid drips. Where the line goes toward the master cylinder, you will see one hose clamp on the side of the swing arm and then another on the underside of the frame next to the AIS valve. Use an 8mm socket to remove these clamps. The hose now goes forward toward the engine behind the horn on the right side of the engine. Remove the horn so you can get to the frame hose holders, where the one to the left is up under the frame swing arm housing. This spring-like holder is not removable where the rubber line grommet can be pushed out away from you. The second line holder is a heavy round rubber grommet that is held by a frame holder that looks like a large wire. You can grab the end of this wire holder with a set of vise grips or pliers and pull the end open to where this circular grommet will slip loose. Then when you put it back in with the new line you can take a flat blade screw driver and press the end closed to tighten up on the grommet. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image004.jpg One quick note on assembly. When you take this line out you will find 3 flat rubber grommets and one thicker circular one (above), all of which can be taken off and used on the new line. Just slit one side and then just peel it off the rubber brake line. The replacement steel line is a smaller diameter, so just cut about ¼” off one end and then place it on the new line and wrap it with a couple of wraps of electrical tape. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image006.jpg Now you are at the frame line cover just under the right foot board. This cover is taken off by removing the two 8mm bolts that attach this cover. You now are at the adapter going into the master cylinder. The short adapter that goes into the master cylinder is a spinning collar and when the line is held by a 14mm open end wrench, you can loosen this collar with another 14mm open end wrench and it’s off. Now when you put the cover back on when you are finished, it works better if you cut the front part of the cover back 1”. You can see from the picture below that you cut it down to about 3/8” from the bottom and then across from the front mounting hole. This cutout allows room for the line coming out of the valve so that there is no pressure on this connection. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image008.jpg Now you are ready to install the new line. For now just work with the line off of the valve and start by threading the line back toward the rear from the horn area at the rear of the engine. Remember there are two flat rubber grommets that go on the swing arm with one flat one that will slip into the spring holder and the round one into the wire holder, where you can press it in to hold the grommet. Once you get the line threaded through to the caliper, attach the 30 degree end to the caliper and tighten the banjo bolt with new copper washers on both sides of the line banjo hole. On the rear line, I usually use the stock steel banjo bolt just because it’s stronger than the brass one that comes with the line. That way you can torque the bolt to 20ft/lbs (the manual says 22ft/lbs which I haven’t been comfortable with). Now attach the two line holders on the swing arm. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image010.jpg Don’t put the line cover on until you are finished bleeding the line and making sure there are no leaks. Next attach the proportioning valve to the master cylinder by threading the spinning collar on the master cylinder to the front adapter with the knob turned down toward the ground. The adapters on the valve side with the copper washers are already tightened. The end that goes into the master cylinder is the adapter with the course 10mm X 1.25 pitch thread. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image012.jpg Just snug this spinning collar to the point that if feels firm. Now thread the end of the line to the output side adapter on the valve and snug it up. Now with a 16mm open end wrench, hold the valve and with a 14mm open end wrench tighten the collar on the master cylinder until it feels tight. Do the same thing to the spinning collar on the line end. The threads on the line collar are a finer thread so do not over tighten. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image014.jpg Now it’s time to bleed the line, but first open the knob on the valve all the way open by turning it counter clockwise (like a faucet). I usually use a MityVac at the caliper bleed valve to get the fluid started to the caliper. Then I use the conventional method of (1) closing the bleeder (2) pumping the pedal a few good times (3) hold the pedal down (4) release the bleeder to let fluid through and then (5) close it. Now go back to (1) and start over until all the air is out of the line and the pedal feels good and firm. Now check the spinning collars at the valve to see if any fluid is seeping at the connections. If so, snug them up just a bit more being careful not to strip a thread. Wipe the fluid that has seeped and then pump the pedal hard and let it sit for a few minutes to see if it is still seeping. Once you are assured there are no leaks, attach the line cover. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image016.jpg Now turn the knob clockwise until it stops. At this point the valve acts like a shutoff valve, so turn the knob back out two turns. You can see the color rings under the knob, which indicate how many turns you have made. If you see 2 colored rings, then the knob is two turns out. This is only a starting point because from here you need to take the bike for a ride on a good concrete surfaced street to test the braking. It’s best to use a street with not much traffic on it Get up to say 40mph or more and gently apply the brakes pressing down more and more until (1) the bike comes close to stopping or (2) the rear wheel locks up. If it locks up, release it quickly. The latter condition means that you need to close the valve more by turning it clockwise. Adjust the valve to the point that you feel comfortable with the amount of braking resulting from how far you have to push down on the pedal. When it is right, you should be able to come to a complete controlled stop at 30-40mph with just the rear pedal. Of course remember that it’s very important to use both brakes when stopping, so in addition to the rear brake, be sure to apply an ample amount of front brake to help slow the bike down the most. But I have found that just as you are coming to a complete stop, release the front and use only the rear brake to come to that complete stop. Sometimes when you use the front brake at a complete stop, it may off balance the bike as you are putting your foot down. The rear brake now becomes more settling and comfortable at stops. Once you are comfortable with the feel, it’s time to lock the knob down. I first did this with a piece of safety wire which worked well but required a small hole be drilled through the knob. But since I started working with this valve, I have found the product information on this valve from the manufacturer (Deltrol Fluid Products) where it described a set screw in the side of the knob that could be used to lock the knob in place. This set screw can be turned in with either a 1.5mm or 1/16” hex allen wrench and will keep the knob from backing off. However, I still have drilled a small hole in the knob and have included a piece of safety wire as a secondary safety measure to make sure this knob stays where you have set it. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image018.jpg If you have any questions concerning this installation, you can reach me by either e-mail or phone: Rick_Butler@verizon.net 972-442-9840 Home 214-926-3905 Cell -
At this past weekends Meet and Eat in NC several members inquired about my brake light on the trunk. Here is an movie that shows it but really does not do justice to how bright this setup is. Anyway here are the links to the strobe/flasher and light bar. I was mistaken on the price of the light bar but it's still a great deal for safety sake. Flasher:http://www.customdynamics.com/led_strobe.htm Light Bar:http://www.customdynamics.com/flex_led_array.htm Let me know if the file does not play and I'll try and upload it again. Wayne
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Has anyone had to return anything to MAW? I bought a rear brake disc for my '89VR from them about three weeks ago. Ran a couple hundred miles last saturday, and toward the end started hearing a clicking noise coming from the rear end. Couldn't find anything wrong on the side of the road, so eased to the house. Couldn't find anything then either. Today I got to looking a little closer, and half the rivets in that new disc are loose. move it back and forth and it clicks. I told Ya'll this thing was a money pit. One thing after another. Again, the bike has great potential but man.....By the way, I guess I'm gonna have to go with an aftermarket clutch spring. This one still slips, even though it's new. but if you dont crank hard on the throttle it dont slip at all. thank heavens the old wing never misses a beat.
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My 83 has a broken connector piece that goes from the rear blake light switch to the brake pedal. The piece seems to be not much more than a wire with a few coils near the pedal end. The switch will activate the brake light but with no connection to pedal no brake lights. Anyone have an idea? Thanks in advance Steve
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Hello all, I'm new to this site and lookin for some information. I just bought a fixer upper from a friend of mine. Ot's a 92 Venture, so far I have replaced the vacuum lines to the cruise, carb boots which connect the carbs to the heads, repair the connections to the suspension controller(E4 error). Next on my list is to replace the rear brake rotor. It seems to be warped. When applying the brakes there is a definite shudder and the front rotors look fine. My question is what other bikes use the same rotor, are some of the front rotors the same as the rears? I have been searching ebay and there are a few out there. I am on a limited budget and looking for a deal.
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I would like to extend the rear brake pedal forward on my '86 as my legs are long and when I need to press on brake I have to lift my leg to get to it. Any extension kits? Has anyone else had this problem?
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Well i am almost set the bike is starting from a battery i had. Now i need to order one for it as well as front brake pads. Any recommendations on what battery and what type of pads.Thanx
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I saw this on another forum and shamelessly stole it - I thought it was worth sharing. TWENTY-FIVE THINGS I WISH I HAD KNOWN WHEN I STARTED (1978) 1. Never park your bike downhill into a parking space. 2. Never park your bike downhill without being in gear. 3. Never leave your bike running and unattended downhill. 4. Never stop your bike with the front wheel turned. 5. Use your rear brake as the control brake at slow speeds. 6. Turn your head and look over your shoulder during U-turns. 7. Look where you want to go. 8. Don't always believe the neutral light. 9. Always downshift to first gear before coming to stop. 10. Check your tire pressure regularly. 11. Keep your eyes level with the horizon when coming to a stop. 12. Practice your starts and stops on different inclines. 13. Practice stopping with only your left foot down. 14. Change your tires when the minimum tread depth is 1.5mm f & 2.0mm r. 15. Be prepared for wet weather; invest in top quality raingear. 16. You will drop your bike no matter how new or old it may be. 17. Unless your leather is lined, the black dye will run when it is wet. 18. You can be cold at speed on a 70 degree day. 19. Dress in layers with adequate air space in between. 20. Two full seasons on an “Un-Tendered Battery” is reasonable, any more will tempt fate. 21. Take the time to winterize your bike properly for storage. 22. Buy the best helmet you can afford and one that fits. It's your brain. 23. There is only one thing worse than wet…..its cold and wet. 24. Cornering is the reason we ride in the first place. Become a master of the turns. 25. Countersteering is the only way to turn your bike quickly! This is a very unforgiving sport, if you or someone else makes a mistake, you can pay for it dearly. You need to be an eternal student and minimize your risks. This is especially important as we get older and our physical abilities deteriorate. Please feel free to add to this post and number your tips accordingly. Let's keep the new riders out of harms way and prevent them from becoming a statistic. Remember, we were all rookies once.
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Here is a question for all you mechanical gurus. The rear brake on my 05 RSTD has just started to bind while parked. I get on the bike and rock it a bit to see if I left it in gear, and find that it rocks only a little, but is in neutral. I can hear the rear brake rub a bit if I force it to move, and I can push the bike some and it will release a bit. then when I start the bike it is entirely free. What would cause the brake caliper to not release? This doesn't seem to happen when I am riding, when I'm stopped at a light it never binds up like that. OK Gurus, what are your ideas?
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A real steal, I just installed the following 9" red led strip lamp, under my RSV trunk, on my brake circuit. It is really looking great, no special bracket required, not difficult to install and the leds are really bright..... professionnal look. I used transparent silicon to hold it in place and connected it to the brake light circuit...... et voila.... P/N 8059495 at Princess Auto , special this week 9$ Canadian(REGULAR 15$) CATALOG PAGE# 359 http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.cfm?CTRY=CAN&INF=home Princess Toll Free Phone:1-800-665-8685 Hermann
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Has anyone installed this PIAA LED brake light? Thnx, DREBBIN
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Pre-Owned Venture This article was written by a mechanic in 1988 who worked on all types and brands of motorcycles, but as you read it you will see the general points would be the same for all motorcycles. From a service standpoint, there are a few things to look at if you are considering buying a pre-owned motorcycle. Exterior cleanliness and mileage do not always tell the whole story. Service records are a good indication of the owner's attitude toward maintenance. If the owner takes the time to keep records of service and repair, he is most likely to have it done right and on time. Without the service record, you are just shooting in the dark and must rely on the seller's telling you the complete truth. Unfortunately, most people do not keep the best records. So here are a few things to be aware of: TIRES: Tires are the first things to check. Naturally, the depth of the tread and condition of the side walls are what you look at. Any cracking in the side walls or cuts or splits in the tread will have you buying a new tire in the near future. If the bike has new or nearly new rubber on it, always check the mileage on the speedo, and casually ask the seller how many times he has put new tires on the bike. This will give you an estimate of how much abase the machine has gone through. For instance, a Venture with 14,000 miles which is on its third rear tire but still has the original front tire is telling you the guy is into stoplight drag racing. This could indicate clutch wear as well. CLUTCH: Because the clutch is on the inside of the motor and you can't see it, you must ride the bike to check for slippage. This can be done at a moderate speed in fourth or fifth gear. Just fan the clutch a few times while under acceleration and listen to the motor. If the clutch is slipping, the rpm's will remain high after releasing the clutch lever. If the rpm speeds up and the bike does not, this machine is in need of a new clutch. The other tell tale sign is to remove the oil filler cap and smell the oil. If it smells like burned toast, this could indicate a problem also. OIL: Anyone who has any sense at all will probably change the oil before he tries to sell his bike. Nice clean oil looking at you through the sight window makes the machine a little easier to sell. But be careful even a bike with new oil may still have a little burned toast smell left if you check closely. Also, look at the underside of the filler cap for sludge or anything that may indicate what the rest of the inside might be like. With the motor cold and not running, stick year finger into the filler hole and take a sample of the scum on the inside motor case. A quick peek at the drain plug and oil filter cup will also let you know if the oil was just changed. There is usually a little oil residue left there after a recent oil change. Rear gear oil usually looks pretty clean because there is no internal combustion or clutch wear to dirty it. The drain plug has a magnet on it to collect the worn pieces of metal and such that accumulate there. Even though the gear oil is clean, the magnet will look like a dirty ball of metal fuzz. This is normal. But if any large pieces of shrapnel are found, you should look further to see where they came from. The rear drive shaft splines are impossible to check or see without removing the rear wheel and gear case. If you do buy the bike, it would be a good idea to pay for the hour and a half or so of labor and have it properly greased and inspected. This is for your peace of mind and may save you trouble down the road. A new drive shaft is only about 55.00, but the aggravation of this kind of trouble on the side of the road is not worth pinching pennies over, so if the splines are worn, replace it now. The drive shaft is not a failing part of the Yamaha Venture, but as the bike gets older and gets higher in mileage, a little preventive maintenance is a good idea. Scratches and scrapes can tell you a little about the machine's history. You may not be able to tell how many times ifs been down, or to what extent damage was sustained if the owner had it repaired, but you should check for a few things anyway. All body parts may not be the same color because they don't always fade in the sun exactly the same. But if there is an obvious difference in color, the part could have been replaced, so find out why. It could have been changed for a lot of reasons, but if it was the result of an accident, make sure it was replaced correctly. You may want to check with the repairing dealer to make sure no corners were cut to keep the cost down. A bent sub frame or mounting tab could cause a painted body part to crack later on. If it has been down on the right side, always check the water pump joint between the thermostat case and the pump itself. It's an L-shaped silver plastic piece and is very vulnerable to being damaged by the right case guard. Also on the right, make sure the throttle does not stick or bind up because of damage on the end of the grip from a fall. Ventures don't have a history of things going wrong with the radiator hoses. With that in mind, they have probably never been replaced. Check carefully for cracks and to see if they are still pliable and not brittle or hard. The coolant itself should be clean and free of dirt or sludge, never milky or brown (that color could indicate internal engine trouble). A sheepskin seat cover is nice, but look under it; it could be hiding a real mess. If you are partial to the stock leather cover, make sure it's fit to sit on. Trunk repair on early Ventures is not uncommon. Look at the bottom of the trunk for cracks around the mounts and lock assembly. A fiberglass repair kit is not a lot of money, but you will want to consider it when talking price. Light bulbs are not expensive either, but the instrument bulbs are not very easy to get to and some after market accessories have bulbs that are harder to find in stores. Brake pads are easy to check because they can be seen without removing anything. The rear pads can be viewed by looking between the right saddlebag and rear fender or from under the bag on late models. You may need to use a flashlight to get a good view, and if it has all the Venture accessories you may need to remove the right bag on early models. Once you have spotted the end of the brake pad, you should check to see that there is at the very least one millimeter of brake fiber between the rotor and the metal back side of the pad. One millimeter or less and you should replace the pads before they begin to damage the rotor. The front pads can be seen easily from each side and the same measuring specifications are used. If the Venture has rotor covers and caliper covers, don't worry, just look through the wheel at the pad on the opposite side of the bike to check the wear. The rotors themselves are almost impossible to destroy unless they were bent in an accident or run for a long time with brake pads that were completely worn out, and were metal-to-metal. If the rotors are blue and obviously were very hot at one time, spin the wheel and check to see if they are warped. An improperly adjusted brake pedal or lever will cause pressure to build up and the brake pads will drag on the rotor, causing it to heat up enough to turn color but not necessarily warp the rotor. Brake and clutch fluids should be clean and clear or a light color. If fluids are dark and have a lot of black "gook" in the bottom of the reservoir, they will need to be changed and flushed. This is caused by heat. The clutch fluid will turn dark faster because the clutch slave cylinder is bolted to the engine cases. This heat from the engine is transferred to the clutch fluid and turns it to a dark color as it is slowly cooked. The brake fluid used for the brakes does not get this hot unless the brakes are not adjusted properly, as explained above. it shows a good or even strong reading,. Battery: Because we change batteries about every two years their is not much to see here except to check the cables for corrosion this could mean having to replace them. One thing that's almost always overlooked is the fuse box. It has to be moved to check the battery but most people never look inside. "Why?" you might ask. Well, if there are no spare fuses under the lid, they had to go some where. If this is the case, ask the owner about it and you will probably get some interesting stories about what happened. If the Venture is covered with lights and accessories with all the bulbs burned out, look for bad grounds or dirty bulb sockets or even a loose accessory causing the bulbs to vibrate them selves to death. Electrical problems are something to avoid when buying a used bike. The fact that there is a problem is bad enough, but it's a lot harder for a mechanic to find the problem if you can't give him any of the history of the bike (or the problem) you just purchased. These thoughts on electrical problems may help to keep the sparks from flying after the sale! I hope these last three months have helped you to make the right choice. Of course, these are not all the things to look for. Any whine, grind, squeak or knock should be investigated, and if it's hard to roll or the levers and pedals are stiff or bind up, you should make sure they just need lubrication and not some new parts. Bill Daly
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I was thinking about putting SS brake lines on my 05 RSV. For those of you that have done this, how much difference did you notice from the OEM brake lines to the SS? Since Yamaha doesn't seem to offer them for the rear, I presume its because the rear line is so short there wouldn't be a noticable improvement. Am I thinking right on the reason for no rear SS line? Just wonder if there is enough improvement to justify doing it. Cheers, Gary B
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About a year ago I picked up 3 pairs of brake pads for future use off Ebay. Hey..the price was right. Anyway, lately I'd been getting a little chattering noise out of the right front caliper, and since I had the the front tire off and down to the store for warantee work, I thought I'd go ahead and toss in another set of pads. Well..... I took out a set of pads and they wouldn't fit. Close, but no cigar.... The width was a few thousands over tolerance, and the thru holes were a few thousands undersized. I did a little shade tree adjusting on them and finally got them to slide in, but they still didn't feel right. I held one up to the the EBC pads I had just removed, and the radius at the bottom was right on on one end and off on the other. 'Bout then I went on down to my local shop and picked up another set of EBC's. They slipped right in. They might have cost more, but I have a lot more confidence in their working. I actually still had a record of the Ebay sale and fired off a email to the seller...he's still actively selling... warning him about possible liability issue. We'll see how he handles it. Just thought other members would like to know about my experience with non-major brand pads on Ebay.
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I see in a couple of posts that some people are very adament about not using DOT5 brake fluid. I have been using it for well over a year on the RSV in the clutch and front and rear brakes as well as in the front a rear brakes on my 1997 Honda Shadow ACE for about 4 1/2 years. I have had no problems, leaks, loss of brake strength or anything to indicate this is the wrong stuff. I do know that you need to be careful and not mix any different types. Please explain why you feel that this is so wrong. If Im headed for trouble I would like to fix it before but it should have happened already if it was.
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I'm looking at replacing my brake pads all the way around. What brand & where is the best place to purchase them? I also want to look into the stainless steel reinforced hoses. anyone with thoughts or suggestion in this area? wayne
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Can anyone tell me how much trouble it is to replace the front brake switch that activates the brake light. Mine is shot and I have a new one on order.. I need to know if it is a relatively simple job to replace it or if I have to pay my local dealer $80/hour.
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I have not researched brake pads for a few years. Anybody have any comments as to which brand might be the highest quality as far as stopping power ? Its time to order a new set just to have them on hand.
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Cruise Question: My '88 Royale will be going along fine on cruise when all of a sudden, it shuts off. I can't associate it with hitting a bump or anything like that. Any ideas? Answered: If the resume light comes on and you can reset the cruise; the Clutch lever has to much play (this should also allow you to start the motor in gear), or the rear brake switch is to tight and needs adjusting. The clutch lever is the most common; it can be a worn bushing or a bad switch, or on high mileage bikes it can be a warn pivot hole in the lever its self. The series circuit for this goes from the clutch switch to the hand brake switch to the cancel switch to the rear brake switch. These switches are all normally closed, so any switch can kill the cruse. Has it lost 5 miles per hr from the set speed? This could be the vacuum pump or the speed sensor on the speedometer. Their are tests in the service manual to check out these possibilities Fred Vogt The following problem came up at V-Daze in Kalispell MT. . The member got the bike to a Yamaha shop that worked long hours to try to get this member back on the road. They changed the stator, regulator and even put a new battery in the bike and because they didn't find the problem they didn't charge the member for the work or the parts they used. I would like to thank that dealer for trying so hard to resolve this member's problem and if they read this. "thank you for your support" Symptom: Battery shows discharge with the motor running, if the clutch lever is actuated it charges again. If the front or rear brake is actuated it charges, but not as much as if the clutch lever is depressed. The curse control will not work. All of the fuses are ok. If you disconnect the wiring to the clutch switch or ether brake switch the bike charges normally. If you disconnect the cruise control unit it dose not help. If you disconnect the vacuum pump it dose not help. If you disconnect the cruise controls on the right handle bar the bike charges normally. Checking resistance with a meter shows no shorts or shorts to ground on any of the connectors. Solution: Upon dissembling the cruise controls on the right handle bar we found a wire from the cancel switch pinched under a screw that held the switch together. After taping the wire and reassembling the controls the bike worked normally. Note: To say that this was a bizarre problem would be an under statement. It was obvious that this wire was pinched at the factory when it was assembled; but waited for 30,000 miles to show it's ugly head. I call this type of short an active short and is very difficult to find because unless voltage is present it will not show a short on any meter. The path for the cruise control cancel voltage is from the rear brake to The front brake then to the clutch switch then to the controls on the right handle bar and finally to the cruise control unit. I doubt that this problem is going to be a common one but; it dose bear thought because any short in the canceling circuit of the cruise will give similar symptoms. Fred Vogt 1037
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Brake Bleeder If you have ever gotten air in the rear brake system of a 83-85 Venture you know how tuff it is to get it out again. This is a simple fix, well maybe not that simple. In 1986-93 Ventures Yamaha fixed the problem by adding a short extension to the left front brake hose Part # 2WR-25873-01-00. The end of the hose was mounted on the top of the triple tree with a small bracket. This hose Must be ordered from Yamaha Japan . There are two other parts, NUT 95306-12600-00 & bleeder assembly Part # 1NL-W0048-00. It was $105 for the hose from Yamaha. But if you can find it in a junk yard it will be a lot cheaper and you will get all three parts. It is a little tuff to get the Banjo bolt out and back in because it attaches to the proportioning valve almost hidden under the top bar on the triple tree see Pic 01, the hose routing see Pic 02. http://www.venturerider.org/brakebleeder/image003.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/brakebleeder/image002.jpg Picture 1 Picture 2 This would be an excellent project for those winter months when you aren't riding. Fred Vogt
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