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Showing results for tags 'box'.
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I thought I was leaking some oil from the valve cover but don't think that is a big issue - but there is all sort of junk on the left side, especially in front of the front carb, extending down over the carb drain hoses, down the left side - and it looks moist above the carb where the book goes to the air box. any idea what is happening here and what it would take to fix it? 87 VR, 67Kmiles, run at about 44 mpg on trips, maybe 40 around the house. runs smooth, starts well
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My buddy has an "06" Venture as do I. We took a 350 mile trip together today and he got noticable better gas mileage that I. One tank we had 139 miles and I put in 9/10 of a gallon more that he did. He was telling me about how he modified his air box making the air intake hole larger. Also he took off the cones in the back of both tail pipes and drilled four holes in the baffell on each side. Will both these things increase your gas mileage and why?? Are there any posts here regarding both of these modifications. He was saying less back pressure from the modification on the pipes increases gas mileage and the carbs beathing easier from more air helps. Both kind of make sence to me, but I bow to the infinate knowledge of those here that live and breath this stuff. Thanks in advace for the responce.
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Hi all, I FINALLY took the leap and decided to try to change the thermostat on my 84 xvz12 and had to remove the right hand exhaust . when I did that I discovered the reason for my loud exhaust, my collector box was screwed and there is no way to fix it , it is pretty much burnt up. the good news is that both mufflers and all 4 header pipes are in good condition. Does anyone know where I can get a good used collector box, or even if I can get a new one. HELP!!!!!!! my ride is parked till I get this fixed Thanks Gord -
OK, finally got out and started messin' with the 87 over the weekend. With all the other stuff I had to do before FtCollions I hadn't had a chance to work on it, and it's been sitting for more than 2 months without firing it up. Choked the 'H' out of it, turned the key on, pushed the start button, and it fired almost imediately, and the R's went right up to 3grand. Cool!! Now here's the kicker. Every time I blipped the throttle the motor wanted to die. OK, so I thought the loose air cleaner box which I hadn't mounted since the last time I played with it was causing the problem. Shut it off and mounted the box. Even connected the *&^%% breather hose. Fired it up again. Blip the throttle. Same thing?? It would idle like a champ at high rpm's, but twist the grip and deadsville. I finally played with the throttle and by blipping it in short bursts I could get the engine to rev up to about 5 grand, but that was it. Also when I took the choke completely off the engine died..... Anyone have any ideas?? All feedback welcome at this point..... Fuel filter clogged maybe?? Whatcha think... BTW it's had two cans of Sea Foam thru it....
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Has anyone tried removing that blasted air box and installing 4 individual K&N style filters? When I changed my plugs, I looked at how deep the air box is and looked at the cutout in the tank. Me thinks there might be enough room for some small stand up filters.
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Ok so my fuse box on my 84 appears to be melting I'm starting to have loose connections in the fuse box causing it to blow fuses and have weak connections for the electrical system. I sometimes have to wiggle the ignition fuse to get the bike to start. any one run into this? if so what did you do to remedy this issue?
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First off since this is my first post hi to everyone. I just bought a 1986 venture and this sight has been great.I fixed my solder joints on the CLASS very helpfull .Now onto how to fix the pressure / boost sensor for timing advance, if your sensor leaks vacuum. this is what you do.Remove sensor heat up a razor blade till it glows red with a torch carefully melt the top cover off by the seam this is opposite the vacuum hose plug .Remove cover what you will see is a bunch of jelly it looks like snot and feels the same way on the same side of the vacuum hose plug you will see a little black box it will have came unglued from the base there is four very small wires coming out of it hidden inside the jelly be carefull not to break them,carefully remove the jelly around the box and wires .I know its a pain but these things are like $300.00 and I have more time than money. Carefully lift up little box clean the bottom of it and the bottom of the sensor housing mix up some epoxy apply a small amount to the bottom of the box all the way around DO NOT GET ANY IN THE HOLE. Gently position over the vacuum hole nipple and wait for epoxy to set up. when set up you should be able to suck on vacuum nipple and it should hold vacuum .If all is good apply RTV sealent were you removed jelly stuff .DO NOT GET ANY ON THE TOP OF THE LITTLE BOX YOU JUST GLUED DOWN THERE IS A LITTLE HOLE THAT HAS TO BREATHE. Epoxy cover back on and check with volt meter IF you plug the harness conector in with key on you should have 12 volts on one terminal 2volts on the output terminal and that one will very if you suck on the vacuum nipple. If you by chance broke one or more of those tiny wires they can be solderd back on but it is not fun I know. Sombody on this sight asked if a GM map sensor would work instead .A gm map sensor works on a 5volt referance signal this work on a 12volt signal after checking both sensor resistances they are not the same.maybe with some resistors you might be able to get the GM sensor to work but that is a little out of my league .HOPE THIS HELPS. -
Conversion to Single Antenna Thanks to Steve Bumgardner (Bummer) While removing the gas tank I managed to lean in too far and snap the center load on the CB antenna. Guess I should have put it up while I was working on the bike. Live and learn. Problems: The stock antenna is $140 or so, and it's obviously not very stout. The twin antenna system reduces the efficiency of the CB antenna. Probably not enough to worry about, but it's there if you like to sweat that sort of thing. Solution: One antenna serving both radios. Note: Some splitters reduce output power. Testing indicates that the Firestik splitter does not reduce final output power to the antenna. 4 watts in, 4 watts out. Many thanks to Marshall Gammon for his site http://bludolphintravel.com/gmg/marshallmod.htm It was a wonderful starting point. Preparation: Read the manual with the splitter. Read and understand the manual that came with your SWR meter. Check out the help files on the Firestik site http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs.htm If you've never worked with coax you should probably read http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs/Coax_Procg.htm for tips. Parts: 1 Firestik Firefly 3 foot CB antenna $18.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_97&products_id=897 1 300-340 stud mount base $5.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=251 1 folding mount $15.00 – This part is way too sloppy but it works if you require a folder. http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?cPath=29_112&products_id=262 1 90 degree PL-259 adapter $5.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/360359-coax-right-angle-adapter-p-233.html 1 CB FM splitter $18.00 http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=221 1 PL-259 male plug $2.50 1 PL-259 reducer model UG176 $.50 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103401 1 Motorola female $1.50 2 Motorola male $2.00 Solder and shrink tubing Installation: The CB lives in a plastic box under the trunk. The lid is held in place with two rubber straps. This mod assumes access to the CB by removal of the trunk as needed. (Remove six screws in the bottom of the trunk, then close the trunk and carefully rotate the rear up and forward. There's wiring up front. I used the 'balance with forehead' technique to hold it up whenever I needed to get to the CB. The red spot's almost gone. Be careful. It's way too easy to put a nasty scratch in the trunk while you're doing this. Sigh.) Remove and do as you will with the old antenna. Mine may eventually grow up to be a flag mast. Remove and retain the wire between the antenna and the CB. Place the stud mount base on the antenna support with the nylon washer at the top. If you are using one place the folding mount in the stud mount, with the fold pointed front/back. Screw the antenna into this. Don't get carried away with the antenna itself. All else should be tight. Screw the 90 adapter into the bottom and aim it toward the radio. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image002.jpg Antenna base. I had to use a file and cut two notches in the stud base. Most PL-259 females have notches all around so that the locking points on the male can keep it from rotating while maintaining good contact. This one had none. A half dozen swipes with an edge of a triangular file did the job. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image004.jpg The notch Use the old wire to measure where to cut the CB Antenna Out wire on the splitter. Solder a PL-259 male plug on the wire you cut off. This is your new antenna wire. Put a male motorola plug on the CB Antenna Out wire of the splitter. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image006.jpg Wiring details. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image008.jpg Finished wiring – I didn't shorten the FM antenna wire the first time. It doesn't have to be, but it makes the box a bit crowded. Screw your new antenna wire into the 90 at the base of the antenna. Test for continuity and shorts. The tip of the antenna should have continuity with the center of the CB antenna wire. It should not have continuity with the outside of the plug. The CB antenna wire shield (outside of plug) should have continuity with the antenna support that came with the bike. Screw the end of the antenna wire into the splitter's Antenna In plug. Route this wire through the hole the old antenna wire went through. Plug the CB out wire into the CB box (gray plug). Remove the FM antenna, base and all. Cut the end off of the FM wire and solder the female Motorola plug on. The core goes to the center of the plug. The shielding goes to the body of the plug. Use some shrink wrap to cover the whole thing. Cut a notch in the side of the plastic box and route the FM antenna wire with the new plug into the box. I made a notch in the lip of the top and a matching one in the slot of the box. I kept this a tight fit to keep water out. Plug the splitter's FM Out lead into the FM antenna wire, fold it up into the box beside the CB. Place the splitter under the wires coming into the box on the left. Massage all the wiring to fit. Close it up. http://www.venturerider.org/antenna/image010.jpg In the box. Now that everything fits, it's time to set the Standing Wave. THIS MUST BE DONE or you'll toast your CB output transistor. Remove the plug from Antenna In on the splitter. Remove the plug between the splitter and the CB. Add a male PL-259 to male motorola patch cord to the antenna input wire (gray plug). Let the patch cord and the antenna wire dangle outside the box. Put the trunk back in place. Plug the antenna wire into Antenna on the SWR meter. Plug the wire from the radio into Radio on the SWR meter. Set the standing wave as per meter instructions. I got a meter at the Rat Shack. I got a http://www.walcottcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=934 and a http://www.walcottcb.com/12mfpl-pl259-to-motorola-female-12-long-p-198.html to connect the meter to the antenna system. I had to screw the adjuster on the antenna most of the way in. After some tinkering with the tip I got a 1.3 on 20 and just under 1.7 on 1 and 40. Once the antenna SWR is set you have to tune the splitter. Connect the antenna to Antenna In on the splitter. Connect a male motorola to male PL-259 patch cord to CB Out on the splitter. Connect these to your meter and check SWR. You'll have to turn the CB adjusting screw on the splitter to bring the SWR back down to where it was when you set the antenna. Mine is turned all the way down. You can now set the AM as per splitter instructions. When the antenna and splitter are both set disconnect the meter and the patch cord. Put the antenna wire back on Antenna In and the CB out wire into the gray socket. Pack everything back into the box, put the lid on, and bolt the trunk back in place. Breaker, breaker, two nine. End result: Single antenna system for under $75.
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hello I just blow out the fuse on my 12dc adaptor and looking for the fuse box, I was told it was underneath the right side lower fairing but cant see it. Can some one point me in the right direction thank you.
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To all ... beware of this company. This past Christmas I ordered a pair of Leather Motorcycle Jeans for my wife. I guessed at the size, and was wrong. So I contacted Open Road Leather and Accessories, told them about the problem, and they gave me an RMA number. I returned them post haste to exchange for another size and model that had a more generous boot cut. I called him after a week because I had not heard anything from him. He did receive the pants bsck and was prepared to make an exchange for me. I gave him my information (there was a difference in the price of the pants) and I assumed the deal was done..right? Three days later he calls me, and now all of a sudden the pants have a "leg cut off"??? And that the factory won't accept them back - and I am out 115.00 bucks. The pants basically came out of the box and back in. There was nothing wrong with them when I sent them back. I can't believe this.. He wouldn't do anything for me? I am told the pants are coming back to me. I will be interested to see the box they are in and if it was slashed open in shipping. In any case - I am done fuming. There is no honor in business anymore. Frustrated.. Stu
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YAMAHA VENTURE BATTERY REPLACEMENT AND CM WARNING BYPASS BY JACK (Condor) CHALAIS http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY1.jpgBecause we were experiencing hard starts, erratic cold starts, and low battery voltage after our '83VR sat for a few days, we decided to replace the existing battery, installed by the previous owner, with one of the new AGM (absorbed glass matt) batteries that have recently become available due to new technology. Having never had any experience with these new maintenance free types, but doing a lot of research we felt that a new ODYSSEY AGM would solve a lot of our hard start problems. For more info click here http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY2.jpgAfter removing the false tank cover, the battery is located under fuse holder. Remove the fuse box by unhooking the rubber hold down strap.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY3.jpgWith the fuse holder out of the way the top of the battery with the low battery acid sensor. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY4.jpgLocate the white/red striped wire leading to the sensor and cut with a pair of dikes. Make sure to leave the wire long enough to work with later on. The sensor might have a different colored wire coming out of it and spliced into the white/red. In this case it's blue. We chose to cut the blue wire after the crimp to give us room to play with, but before the crimp will work as well.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY5.jpgUndo the battery cables and remove the battery from the box. Set aside the cable screws for later.. This is the time to do a little house cleaning. We found our box interior coated with white acid corrosion. We soaked the box interior with a baking powder/water mix, and then tried to blot up the residue. No luck. Had to remove the battery box to get it cleaned up properly. I removed the 2 screws at the base, and with a little coaxing got the box out. If your screws are in bad shape due to the corrosion, replace them with those set aside from the cables.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY6.jpgOnce the house cleaning has been accomplished set the new battery in place and hook up the cables. We found the ODYSSEY, although heavier than the wet cell, had a smaller footprint. Later we added strips of packing Styrofoam to fill the voids.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY7.jpgAfter installing the battery, turn the ignition key to the start position. The CM will go thru it's normal check list if everything is connected properly. Because the battery sensor has been disconnected the red warning light and battery icon will stay on. You can continue to operate the bike like this, or take a trip to your local Radio Shack and pick up some 1k and 2.2k ohm resistors. They run a buck for a 5 pack. They're cheap and the reason to pick up both is, one or the other will work, and if you should happen to pick up the wrong size it would cost more in gas than it costs for another pack of resistors, to run back up to the store. So go ahead....splurge! You might also pick up a tube of silver bearing solder while you're at it. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY8.jpgOpen the top of the fuse box and locate the accessory fuse. Remove the fuse. If your lead is held in by a screw, attach an 8" piece of wire to the terminal using a terminal eye. In our case they were crimped in and we soldered the end to the existing wire stub.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY9.jpgClip the ends of the resistor wire down to something manageable to about 1" in length. Solder the resistor between the lead from the fuse box and the sensor lead. Don't forget to place a piece of heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the resistor and the lead ends before doing any soldering. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY10.jpg Put the fuse back in the accessory, and turn the ignition key on again. The red light should go out and the CM thinks it has a full battery. If not, try replacing the resistor with one smaller or larger, as the case may be.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY11.jpgReplace the fuse box top, and in this case we will filled the gaps with paper towels. Later we replaced the towels with about half inch Styrofoam so it looks like we knew what we were doing. Button everything back up and you should be good to go. We found that with the new battery the scoot started quicker, warmed up without sputtering, coughing and missing, and idled much smoother. We feel we made the right choice. Hope this helps. ~Jack
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