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Showing results for tags 'bottle'.
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My friend put a leather bottle holder / pocket on the saddle bag guards of his Harley. They stretch between the top of the front guard and the bottom. The right guard holds a water bottle, the left has a closing pocket for stuff. This puts stuff within reach while keeping his handlebars clear of junk. Anyone know a source for a RSTD-sized similar product?
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CHECKLIST FOR A MISERABLE WEEKEND! 1. BOTTLE OF IBUPROFEN 2. BOTTLE OF ANTACID 3. BOTTLE OF WINE I'M WORKING ON TAXES THIS WEEKEND!:bawling:
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I knew it was still close to the forth of July as the bottle rocket was lit and headed north scraping and bouncing along the road and out of site. we were a bit worryed but got a message he made it to Newberry Paul it was great having you here for the nite and visting. your welcome to stop back anytime as the couch is always open. now that your not here i got my computer back but what did you do to the poor dog he still wont come out from under the chair? LOL http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0238-1.jpgtook over the parking spot http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0235.jpgtaking over the computer http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0236.jpghigh speed typing with one finger had to blow on it to cool it down. http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0237.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0239.jpgenjoying more IceCream http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0240.jpgupset he couldnt have my icecream too! I was to fast for him http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0241.jpgjust look at that belly and tell me the icecream was not good http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0242.jpgsitting on the bottle rocket http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h269/drayco58/IMG_0243.jpgyep dont know what he was using for gas but havnt seen a bug in 3 days now that he layed down the smoke screen Dray
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Alright, so I finally got the front cylinder head off, heli-coiled, and back on (Thanks to Freebird and Rick Butler for putting up with my phone calls. ) Got it all buttoned back up on Saturday, and got it out on the road. Everything seemed great.. until I stopped at the store and heard something bubbling from the right fairing.... I was boiling coolant in the resivoir. the bottle looked full and was visibly wiggling from the boiling. went into the store and came back out to find that the bottle was empty but still pretty darn hot. couldn't see anywhere that it boiled a hole in the bottle, but the cap was cracked. Couldn't see where it had leaked out onto the ground either, but it had just rained and the concrete was soaked already. while riding the temp gauge didn't move. Just stayed buried at the bottom, which I remember thinking was odd since after that short distance it should at least have moved up some.. So now I need some advice from ya'll... If this was a car I'd start looking at the thermostat.. since I drained the radiator and re-filled it, I'm wondering if I washed something into it and stuck the stupid thing.. or maybe I didn't put enough coolant into it?? How much should be in an '86 VR? And does anyone have a coolant bottle and cap that I can buy from them? Thanks in advance! BTW, in case anyone was wondering, Yes, you CAN remove the front cylinder head without removing the engine... but for the pain in the butt that it is, I'm wondering if it woulda been easier to pull the engine. -
Rottella T 15-40 not energy conserving, is that what I want. is that a blue bottle or white one. I sort of remember using that last time. A little help, please
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What is the difference between DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid? I want to change the clutch fluid on my wifes 99 RSTD, and I have an almost full bottle of DOT3 in the garage. Can I use it instead of DOT4?
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I mounted a water bottle cage to the left saddlebag crash guard. Works great. I used a cage that adjusts with a thumb screw to whatever water bottle you use. I use a CamelBak bottle that doesn't require tipping up (so it doesn't block my view of the road while taking a drink). It attaches using a 1" bar clamp I got from the bike store, and I installed it so the passenger floorboards still can be folded up.
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Spring time is here. The bike is back out. I've gone through three or four tanks of gas now, so the gas stabilizer is well flushed out of the tank, carbs, and all the lines. But I still have some remaining unused gas stabilizer in the bottle on the shelf. Is there anything I can do to keep this stuff from going bad before next winter as it sets in the bottle doing nothing? I don't want to find a bottle of gummy varnish that needs cleaned out next winter when it's storage time again. Should I put some gas in the bottle and top it off, so that there's no air in the bottle to break down the gas stabilizer? In short, I just want to know how to stabilize the gas stabilizer for the summer storage months.
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Reverse Brake Bleeding Do it backwards like the Pros do! If conventional brake bleeding of the front brakes is leaving you with less hair and more wrinkles between the eybrows, try doing it backwards, like the professionals do!! If you have opened the system by changing brake lines or working on the calipers or the reservoir, this may be the only way to completely rid the system of air. Pro shops use a pressurized or "Bladder" setup to simply fill the system from the bottom up, chasing the air upwards, out the top, then some of the fluid is drawn back out or pumped back out to eliminate any residual air that may be pocketed in any upper recesses of the caliper. With a few dollars and a trip to your local hardware store and kitchen, you can build your own "Gravity Bleed" system and do the job right the first time and be finished in an hour, instead of a week!! Think of this system as a medical "I.V." system, just like the one they give you blood or fluids with. You fill a reservoir with fluid, attach it to the caliper bleeder valve (nipple), then either let gravity do the work, or lightly apply squeeze pressure by hand. Very simple, and extremely effective. Some items you will need: 1.) A typical 16 or 20 oz water bottle, clean and dry. 2.) A 3/16" Brass Hose Barb from the hardware store (with 1/8" pipe threads on the back end). 3.) A 1/2" brass Lamp base nut (listed with 1/8" ISP threads (to secure the hose barb with.) 4.) Two used banjo crush washers (these are a perfect size, but other washers will work. 5.) 6 feet of 3/16" inside diameter clear tubing. 6.) (Optional) 1/4" outside brass needle valve. 7.) A roll of Duct tape and a Coat Hangar or rope for suspending the bottle. 8.) Turkey baster (for removing excess fluid from reservoir. 9.) Some Teflon plumber's tape for sealing the bleeder valve threads. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/supplies.jpg Drill a hole in the cap of the water bottle and attach the hose barb to the cap, using the brass lamp nut and the two used banjo washers. wrap a loop of duct tape over the bottom of the bottle so you will have something to hang it upside down by. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/cap.jpghttp://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bottle.jpg Pour in the brake fluid. Attach the clear tubing to the cap. (I used a small needle valve near the free end of the hose just to make things work a little cleaner, since I had to bleed both sides of my dual disc system, but the needle valve is not necessary.) Remove the caliper bleeder nipple, clean its threads, and then wrap a short length of Teflon tape around the threads to help seal it from air entry or fluid leakage during the process, then reinstall the nipple to the caliper. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/teflon1.jpg http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/teflon2.jpg First of all, use common sense when setting up to bleed. Air migrates upward in a liquid system, so tilt your handlebars, turn your handlebars, and or reposition your master cylinder so that the banjo fitting is BELOW the lowest point of the reservoir. Now, after removing the reservoir cap, loosen the caliper bleeder valve to open it, and attach the free end of the clear tubing to it. It helps to let the clear tubing fill up with fluid right to the end before attaching to the bleeder valve, just to reduce the introduction of air into the brake system. Raise and secure the upside down bottle to a level just above the reservoir, then take a small pointed punch or other device and poke a small "breather" hole in the bottom of the bottle (which is now the high end), so it can draw in air as the fluid flows downward. Make sure that the clear tubing makes a constant uphill path to the bottle so that air in the tubing will work its way to the top and into the bottle. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/ivbottle.jpg http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/setup.jpg You can help and speed the process by taking the bottle in your hand and while holding your thumb over the breather hole, squeeze the bottle gently, and watch the reservoir as it fills. You can also "suck" fluid back through by moving your thumb off the hole, then squeezing the bottle to remove its air content, then hold your thumb over the hole and manipulate the bottle to draw fluid back in with a slight vacuum pressure When the system is initially filled with fluid, let it sit undisturbed for 15 minutes, then there will be three air bubbles left in the system. One small one just below each bleeder nipple at the calipers, and one big one at the master cylinder banjo fitting. Now, with the system full, you can "tickle" that bubble out of the banjo by LIGHTLY squeezing the lever only a SLIGHT amount (may 1/4"). Just "wiggle" the lever in and out at the very outward portion of its travel, and it will draw that bubble upward. If you fully squeeze the lever, or squeeze it hard, you are forcing that banjo bubble down into the brake line, and it has to start climing back up all over again. When you can't "tickle" any more air through the tiny orifice in the reservoir, reverse sqeeze some more fluid through the system with the bottle, and watch for any new bubbles. If you don't get any new ones, and can't "tickle" any more out from the top, then crack open the caliper bleeder and SLOWLY bleed any remaining caliper air out from the bottom conventionally. Finish off the other caliper and test the system. Dual Disc Notes: If your system consists of dual brake discs and calipers, work the left caliper first, until fluid begins to reach the reservoir, then swap over and work the right, until all air is evacuated, then finally, go back and lever bleed the left again to make certain there is no air left in the caliper itself.
