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Showing results for tags 'bolt'.
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I am going to share a story with you about something that happened to me last week. That I only found out today what happened. That still scares the hell out of me. Last week I was out on the ocean fishing when I happened to look north and saw a storm heading my way. I headed toward Barneget Lighthouse inlet as fast as I could so I would be at least in the bay. Well unfortunately the storm caught up to me. I got to the bay and was still quite a way from home when out of nowhere a bolt of lightning went across the sky and the clap of thunder immediately followed. This scared me. Then two seconds later another bolt of lightning with the loudest noise I have heard in all my life. It sounded like it hit something directly behind me. This now terrified me which I thought I was literally going to sh** my pants. I didn't know what to do. I had to get off the bay NOW. I was almost going to head to land and just beach the boat till the storm passed. Well I decided to get the hell home ASAP full throttle toward home. I made it to my lagoon and jumped out of that boat the fastest I have ever did it. I MADE IT. HOME. YAY Well now we go ahead a few days. I was doing some pre-checks on the boat as I was going fishing again the next morning. Well the boat started like it always did but for some reason my GPS, Fish finder and gauges were not working. So I checked my wires and fuses but couldn't find anything wrong. I talked to my mechanic and he gave me a few things to check. I went home and started to inspect the boat again when lo and behold I found my problem. That last bolt of lightning HIT MY ANTENNA just above my head. Thank you God for watching over me. I still get the willies thinking about it let alone looking at the pictures. Check them out. WOW. [ATTACH]59806[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]59807[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]59808[/ATTACH]
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Just relocated the fuel filter on my 96 Royal Star yesterday after reading several posts on this site. It was an easy job and well worth while for future maintenance. The hardest part of the job was the mounting bolt and nut for the Roll-Over Valve that so many described as a PITA. To resolve this I put the bolt through the hole from the back of the metal bracket and put the nut on the front side with some loc-tite and now have a threaded stud that will stay in place. Just put the plastic holder on the bolt and install a lock washer and another nut. This doesn't have any earth-shattering significance but may be a tip that some might find useful. Happy,safe riding Doug
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OK..Forks are drained, anti dive parts are off. Before I do anything else stupid....I figured I'd ask first. the brackets where the cross over hose connects up near the triple tree. Is that supposed to just slide off? I can't see any kind of clamp but when I try to remove the forks they get hung up on that bracket (with a clunk) so it sounds like a lip in the way. With Skydoc's block off plates, there is a set of bolts with a hole drilled thru them. I am thinking they go in place of the hoses? They came with 2 brass washers for each bolt...do I use 2 on one hose replacement bolt ? Once the forks are out...how do I get to the bearings. (that's what I figured out....still need help with cross over hoses....they are supposed to be removed when I do the block off plates yes? Am I getting over analytical or paranoid.....YES I AM!
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Can someone tell me what size bolt #5 on the rear trunk mount schematic is just purchased this 06 RSV missing one bolt part # 92014-08020-00. Appreciate all the help i can get also does anyone know where to buy reasonably priced highway pegs and possibly a part number for these also.Thanks, Tony
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I lost the bolt that holds the rear brake caliper bracket to the swing arm. Page F-3 of the service manual Ref #4 Part # 95024-10030-00 Discription- Bolt, Flange I'm sure I can get one at Ace if I can find the size, pitch and tpi. Thanks!
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While at the Venture Round UP in Cody, Wy a couple of years ago, the side stand bolt on the Virago broke. As a quick fix, I purchase a bolt from the local hardware store. Ever since, the bike has been developing a horrendous lean. Finally found a side stand for a decent price (cheap is a way of life here) and also ordered an OEM Bolt. Had a break in the rain today, so decided to put the new side stand on. Turns out there was nothing wrong with the stand. The bolt that I used was bending. The more it bent, the further the bike would lean. So, for you folks that are experiencing excessive lean while using the side stand, you may just want to check the bolt holding the side stand on.
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After months of trying to disassemble the front end, mostly delayed for health reasons, heat, wildfire smoke, etc, I finally dropped the fork off the bike today. Of course there is ALWAYS one bolt that strips and mine was the pinch bolt on the upper tree. Tried drilling it out but eventually ended up using a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut through the exposed bolt shaft. Glad I have a nice chrome tree to replace it with. (Thanks BoBo) Finally got to use Dingy's fork nut tool to loosen it up. Great tool Gary!! Need to go out today and pick up a 5-6" folding table to lay out parts prior to polishing. Shop area is a total mess right now and got parts/tools all over the place. Cant work like that. Hope to have the tubes disassembled sometime in the next week and get down to some serious parts polishing by next tuesday/wed. Going to fabricate a bracket to bolt to the fork legs to hold it in the bench vise to remove the tube/seals/bushings etc. That wiring bundle sure is a mess though. Got it all sitting on top of the airbox area of the tank. It looks like one of those Comcast commercials which shows the ATT aged wire bundle. Sure glad I marked each and every connection. Hey Eck...its all for you buddy!!!
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I am interested in putting a venture rear seat on my 05RSTD. Will the venture seats bolt up..?? Thanks for your help.
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Ok - I give up. I'm looking for info on the brackets that go on the guard to bolt the carbon one highway supports to. I bought a set from Carbon one at MD but don't have a clue what other bracket I need. These aren't anything more than a hunk of metal w/o the clamps to bolt to. Thanks
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I changed the antifreeze in my bike. I noticed the bolt in the center of of the painted black piece in between the side covers was missing. It is bolt number 14 on pages SIDE COVER - D11 & D12 of the schematics in the Tech library. If anyone has one lying around I would appreciate your help. I suppose the bolt has been missing since new, or mechanic may have left this bolt out when they changed the clutch basket or new head casket. The bolt really has no affect other than it would stiffen the center mount up some for the side covers. I am funny about stuff like this, the bolt should be there even so. Thanks, Fuzzy ........ -
kickstand removal question
nc jack posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
i'm the new owner of a 1996 royal star (xvz13a). the previous owner had somehow snapped off the prong used to lower the kickstand. i've read the posts about welding the kickstand, but i've purchased a new kickstand from a salvage yard and would prefer to replace the kickstand. here's my problem: i can't remove the bolt holding the kickstand because it screws out against the alternator cover and won't come all the way out. is there a way to remove this bolt without removing the alternator cover? thanks for any advice. -
I know a few members here are aware of the story of Jonas' bike. Long story short, I was commissioned to do a bunch of modification work on the '98 Royal Star he keeps in here in the States. The list includes VMX cams, 32mm carbs and VMX rear gear along with a few other smaller items. Here are a few pictures to go along with the progress. The first is cams, VMX on the left and stock on the right. There's a good difference in size there. Cams and springs are a drop-in fit. Second is the VMX rear gear being machined for the speedo sensor. Third shows the new pair of bolt holes in the heads to mount the 32mm intakes which have a different bolt pattern to them. Here, the new holes are the upper right and lower left, where the holes for the stock 28mm carbs are the opposite. My '96 did not have the extra set of bosses for the bolt holes, so I used an adapter plate as shown in my 32mm carburetor swap article elsewhere on this board. I was not aware that later heads had blank bosses like these do, so in this case, instead of adapter plates, I drilled and tapped the bosses for the bolt holes. The adapter plates on my bike work fine, but this is a nicer result. The fourth shows the 32mm carbs in place. I am almost finished with this project. I have had to procure a few odd fiddly little parts at the last minute, stuff that you can never foresee. Once those come in, it should only be a couple more days and it should be ready to ride. I know he is anxious to see it and ride it this summer.
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I am trying to identify a bolt with a pivot pin in the center that allows it to hinge 90º either direction. What's it called? I can't seem to find them... Any help?
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A local leather shop made this bra for me. His suggestion was to fasten the bottom through the bottom tank bolt rather than use clips. I am very happy with it. Only cost me $50.
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Actually I can't take credit for that. My son-in-law who is a journeyman mechanic did it, I just watched. As it turned out he did a totally professional job. We had trouble with one stator bolt that would not break loose. He had to actually take the stator assembly to his shop, weld a nut onto the bolt and then take it off. While he was there he cleaned it all up and then came back and he completed the install. We didn't solder the wires, he re-used the connector. Like I said he did a beautiful job. And I have to thank Brad (Squidley) for his comments as well. I'll be the first to admit I'm not a wrench. If I had attempted to do this solo my wife would have eventually found me curled up in the fetal position on the cold garage floor or sitting underneath my toolbox with a bottle of tequila gripped between my fists mumbling stark, imprecations against Yamaha, the government and realtors but not necessarily in that order. So here's the deal. Yeah so I don't know my Robertson's from my Philips head screw drivers. Who cares? I have a mechanic for a son-in-law. Anyway where was I...Oh yeah, the deal. I have a perfectly good OEM stator out of my 2004 RSV that I want to put in the classifieds and Ebay but I have no idea what it might be worth. Anyone have an idea what it might be worth? Thank you in advance. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta. -
OK so I have the forks slid up an inch and then installed the barons rear lowering kit. I absolutely LOVE it. It handles fine and I can get my feet flat so i worry less. Only 2 real problems so far...I have dragged the mufflers once or twice leaving the driveway (change of riding habits can fix this one). The other problem is that riding 2 up on one of our fav roads at about 65 there is a dip that caused a strange noise and a rubber smell. Crawled under it and there is a bolt that sticks thru the inner fender about a 1/4 of an inch past the welded nut it screws into. it had scuffed the tire a bit as well. I pulled the rear seat and found the bolt and just put washers under it to shorten the extra amount that poked thru the fender. Hit that same spot today fully loaded with a head of steam and no problem at all! So if you have the barons rear kit you might want to take a look at that bolt. Frank
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A special thanks to Ken Chapin (WuzFuzz) for his permission to post this write-up to the the VentureRider tech library. I found it hard to believe that YAMAHA states that regular fork oil changes are not needed on the 2nd Gen RSV. During my winter teardown process, I decided to open things up and have a look. Apparent right away is the fact the the forks do NOT have a designated drain. You can, however, remove the lower fork damper bolt. This bolt screws into the internal damper rod which has a rebound spring encompassing it. This bolt basically ties the internal components of the fork assembly together. I have the benefit of a centerstand on my '03 Midnight, so it was easy to use my floor-jack to raise and support the bike so that the front wheel is off the ground. Remove the caps from the fork air valves and release any air pressure. Next the front axle has to be removed so that access can be gained to the damper bolt at the bottom of each fork. The wheel/tire can remain in where it is --- in between the forks. You will now need a 6mm Allen head socket with a long reach to access the damper bolt itself. Prior to loosening the bolt, give it a couple of raps with a hammer to break loose any corrosion that may be locking the threads. I also have the luxury of a compressor and air tools, but the bolt can be loosened with a regular socket wrench. The inch long Allen bolt with its companion copper sealing washer will come out with the fork oil draining from behind it. Have a catch pail handy as over half a liter of oil will be draining. To speed up the draining process, you can remove the Schraeder valve from the air fitting on the top of the fork. Repeat the process on the other fork. I found the thin 5W fork oil somewhat on the dark and dirty side.............. looking nowhere near like new oil. My '03 currently shows just over 30,000 kilometers on it. I then used my air compressor to blow down through the forks to expel the remaining oil out through the damper rod hole at the bottom of each fork. When the oil quits draining ---- I left mine to sit overnight --- you can reinstall the damper bolt and its small copper sealing washer with a little sealer on the threads. It is best to lower the front end so that compression of the forks and their inner components takes place and alignment of the damper rod meets with the access hole. Tighten the bolt securely and use a torque wrench to obtain the specified 14 ft lbs. Refilling the forks with fresh fork oil takes a little longer but it can be done with a filler hose from a bicycle pump and a squeeze bottle or large syringe from a vet supply house or pet store. I chose to refill my forks with BelRay 15W in the specified amount of 553 cc per fork. First, make sure that the Schraeder valve is not in the air fitting. Then attach the screw-on filler hose from a bicycle pump onto the Schraeder valve. The squeeze bottle I use is equipped with a large bore needle on the end. It is also marked for volume and I attach it to the open end of the filler hose. Due to the smaller orifice of the Schraeder valve, it takes somewhat longer to fill the forks than it does to empty them. I would estimate that it took about 10 minutes per fork to squeeze the specified 553 cc of fork oil into each tube. When you have inserted the specified amounts, remove the bicycle hose, reinstall the valve into the fitting and preload the forks with your desired air pressure. With the 5W, I was using 5 or 6 psi, but I expect better dampening with the 15W so lower pressure ratings will most likely apply. I will have to wait until the start of the riding season (for me its next month) before I settle on an air pressure setting. For now.......... I inflated them both to 4 psi.
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I have a oil leak on the right rear cylinder head where the carb boot ataches to the head. Aperently the bolt hole for the boot goes through to a oil gallery and the oil is leaking around the threads and running down the side of my engine. I have tried thread sealer on the bolt and pipe sealer but it still leaks. Even tried gasket cement with no luck. My next thought is to epoxy a set screw in the bottom of the hole but I am a little concerned about blocking the oil gallery. Any other suggestions on what to do?
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One of my saddle bag rail bolts loosened up, and the bolt and end cap are missing-in-action. Any chance somebody out there has these parts on the shelf from a rail that that got wrecked in a drop, or who knows what happened??? Pictured below are the 2 pieces I'm missing, the bolt and the cap that is ahead of the saddle bag guard. The bolt goes thru the cap and the guard, and into the front end of the bag rail. 2006 RSV, by the way. Thanks for looking. Larry http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w317/larrykir/Venture%20Saddle%20Bag%20Rail%20Parts/100_2777.jpg http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w317/larrykir/Venture%20Saddle%20Bag%20Rail%20Parts/100_2778.jpg
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Hi group, Dunno about everyone else but been chasing missing bolts, and having problems with the hex / allen key heads stripping on my 03 Venture. While stored in my garage for our great Canadian winter, I noticed both sides saddle bag rail's front bolts missing. Anyone know the part number or a suitable replacement? Also noticed 2 small leaks of coolant under the cooling fins that cover the cylinders on the left side. Took it to a shop who removed them and told me it was the coolant plugs - a quick fix. I got the bike put away just before the snow flew and finally picked up the replacement plugs, figuring I would replace all 4. Well, I did 3. Why? Because the shop who discovered the leaky plugs must have stripped the head on 1 of the 3 bolts. Frustrated that every time I go to do something on the bike, there is always 1 allen/hex headed bolt that is either seized or stripped. I removed the backrest due to getting sore knees from the forward leaning position I was in, despite adjusting it all I could....and had 1 seized bolt, that I stripped the head from trying to remove. Tried removing the saddlebags to switch back to stock exhaust from Barons Custom Bag Slash....stripped 1 bolt each bag. Got the quick release ones (Butlers?). Frustrating.
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This is a very simple system that I just installed on my bike for two reasons. 1. I do not want to remove the seat all the time to charge the battery. 2. I also want a quick system to jump start my motorcycle should the battery go dead on me for any reason and I need to get home. Its nice to have a system on the bike so as one does not have to tear the bike apart to get to the battery connections. I want a fast fix if I am down for any reason. Plan ahead!! Steps 1. Remove the seat so as to access the Battery and the cover for the circuit breakers left side rear of motorcycle. "near battery" 2. Get a large electrical wire or what I did was use electrical wire with three wires inside the rubber covering about 9 inches long. Need large wire to start the starter should it be necessary to jump start the motorcycle. 3. I then got two electrical connectors which would fit on the battery positive post and one that would fit on a 5/16 inch bolt that is one and 3/8 inches long. 4. I then drilled a 5/16 hole on the plastic cover that is behind the battery near the positive post. 5. I crimped the electrical connectors on each end of the wires. 6. I put one connector on the 5/16 inch bolt and put on a nut and tighten the connector to the bolt. 7. I then passed the bolt through the hole that I drilled 5/16 in the plastic and installed lock washer and bolted it to the plastic cover. The bolt is now sticking out about 3/4 of an inch. 8. I then installed the other end to the positive post of the battery and routed the wire where it would not be hitting anything. 9. I then tested the system by placing my battery charger on the motorcycle with the postive lead attached to the 5/16 inch bolt and the negative place on any ground/metal on the motorcycle. 10. The bolt is extremely hard to see with the seat both on or off but it really helps in knowing that you can charge the bike and jump start without removing the seat and etc. If anyone would like to see photos of the system installed write me a e-mail and I will send the photos. Dan4852@aol.com
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I seems like everything I do on my 02 RSV I end up with a stuck bolt!! This time it's the back bolt on the right lower. I discovered the left was already damaged after I got that side off. I'm guess the PO had the problems with the bolt on that side. This is one that I some:confused07:how have to get out to change the breather and have acess to the fuse panel. Open to ideas. Right now the bolt just spins either way.
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just to clarify a mind that's...
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
....full of other things at the moment... Does the oil filter go on the bolt BEFORE the spring and washer (pic 1) OR Does the spring and washer go on the bolt before the oil filter (pic 2) From what I'm viewing on the parts catalogue it looks like pic 2 should be correct but it's not absolutely clear, (to this mind at the moment) and I'm sure I've taken these parts off the bolt in BOTH configurations. And before a sharp eye notices...YES, I've got a new o-ring on the bolt...these pics are off the spare parts that are piling up too quickly around here. -
I have searched for an hour and cant find it. There is a specific bike starter that will bolt right on and work perfectly for the MK1 1st gens. I want to upgrade to a 4 brush starter if I am taking the thing off. Anyone have any links or info as to what bikes have a better starter that bolt right on our bikes? -
Yesterday I got my MC jack modified to fit under my RSV, so today I decided to start the process of lowering the front forks and adjusting the steering bearing. When I got the front shell of the fairing one of the six bolt appeares to have the end of an allen wrench broken off in it. So I thought I could just drill it out. Nope! The broken allen head is to hard to drill. I then thought I could use my dremel and grind a slot for a screw driver but the bolt is the lower right and recessed into the fairing so the cutting wheel will not fit. So here I am look for help:8: on how to get the bolt out. Oh ya the bike has a light bar. Whats the trick on getting to the bolts? They are too close to the fairing to get to.
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