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VR Assistance

  1. Although I’m new to this forum, I’m not new to my Venture. In ’87 I bought my ’86 Royal while it was still in a box and paid for complete dealer assembly and warranty. That was almost 20 years ago. Wow, how time flies. Long story short: last Saturday an older lady decided she liked my lane better than her own. End result, insurance company say my bike is totaled. Sad day; very sad day. Other than for several bumps an very slight burses, I’m fine. I’m very sad to see it go – the end of a truly great relationship. OK, here’s my question: Do any of you have experience with: 1. insurance scrap value; 2. parting out the bike and estimates of time and value if most of the bike is good, just lots of twisted metal and busted faring. The insurance co. is working on what they will give me. What they said is that I have two options: 1. they pay me replacement value and they take the bike; or 2. they pay me replacement value minus scrap value and I keep the bike to part out. Looking for experienced points of view. I live in Southern CA. Thanks.
  2. I need to ask this only because I'm on the road and don't have my owner's manual or shop manual with me. When checking the antifreeze level in the tank behind the right side cover, is the bike supposed to be level and balanced or leaning over on the side stand? It makes a huge difference in what the level reads. The bike in question is a '96 Royal Star, if that makes any difference. TIA.
  3. When I bought my new old 84 Venture the previous owner gave me a chrome bumper that he thought was on the bike at one time. I haven't seen any pictures yet on this site that really look like what I have. Does anybody have any idea if there were ever chrome bumpers that go around the saddlebags for an 84 VR? Or has anybody ever seen something like that? I'm not sure if it will fit or how exactly how to put it on the bike. Any input or pictures would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Cruise Question: My '88 Royale will be going along fine on cruise when all of a sudden, it shuts off. I can't associate it with hitting a bump or anything like that. Any ideas? Answered: If the resume light comes on and you can reset the cruise; the Clutch lever has to much play (this should also allow you to start the motor in gear), or the rear brake switch is to tight and needs adjusting. The clutch lever is the most common; it can be a worn bushing or a bad switch, or on high mileage bikes it can be a warn pivot hole in the lever its self. The series circuit for this goes from the clutch switch to the hand brake switch to the cancel switch to the rear brake switch. These switches are all normally closed, so any switch can kill the cruse. Has it lost 5 miles per hr from the set speed? This could be the vacuum pump or the speed sensor on the speedometer. Their are tests in the service manual to check out these possibilities Fred Vogt The following problem came up at V-Daze in Kalispell MT. . The member got the bike to a Yamaha shop that worked long hours to try to get this member back on the road. They changed the stator, regulator and even put a new battery in the bike and because they didn't find the problem they didn't charge the member for the work or the parts they used. I would like to thank that dealer for trying so hard to resolve this member's problem and if they read this. "thank you for your support" Symptom: Battery shows discharge with the motor running, if the clutch lever is actuated it charges again. If the front or rear brake is actuated it charges, but not as much as if the clutch lever is depressed. The curse control will not work. All of the fuses are ok. If you disconnect the wiring to the clutch switch or ether brake switch the bike charges normally. If you disconnect the cruise control unit it dose not help. If you disconnect the vacuum pump it dose not help. If you disconnect the cruise controls on the right handle bar the bike charges normally. Checking resistance with a meter shows no shorts or shorts to ground on any of the connectors. Solution: Upon dissembling the cruise controls on the right handle bar we found a wire from the cancel switch pinched under a screw that held the switch together. After taping the wire and reassembling the controls the bike worked normally. Note: To say that this was a bizarre problem would be an under statement. It was obvious that this wire was pinched at the factory when it was assembled; but waited for 30,000 miles to show it's ugly head. I call this type of short an active short and is very difficult to find because unless voltage is present it will not show a short on any meter. The path for the cruise control cancel voltage is from the rear brake to The front brake then to the clutch switch then to the controls on the right handle bar and finally to the cruise control unit. I doubt that this problem is going to be a common one but; it dose bear thought because any short in the canceling circuit of the cruise will give similar symptoms. Fred Vogt 1037
  5. Lucky and Stupid. When you think about it, that is about the best you can hope for when stupid is part of the equation. So here's my story. I use my tires too long. Not intentionally, and I'm not proud of it, and for sure I'm not recommending it, but facts is facts. I can explain how it happened, but that doesn't make it right. Closer attention would have prevented it. The problem is that without a center stand, it is just such a pain to carefully rotate the tires and inspect them all the way around. When my tires get close to the wear bars, I THOUGHT I kept a pretty close eye on them. As some of you might know from my past posts, I ride a lot. I'm on the bike virtually every day, and I can often put a thousand or two miles on the bike between washing (when I really get down and inspect everything). So keeping a pretty close eye on the tires usually means I regularly take a look a the open part of the tread below the rear fender or on the front of the bike. I just figured that by looking at that section of the tire every few times I walk up to the bike, random chance would mean that I was seeing all of the tire within a reasonable time frame. Facts prove me wrong. Here's the condition I thought my Avon Venom rear tire was in at 14,000 miles: [ATTACH]802[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]803[/ATTACH] In these pictures you can clearly see the edge of the wear bar in the middle of the long tread groove that stretches all the way across the tire. The Venoms only have about three of these long grooves, so there are not a lot of places to check for the wear bars. Yes, I know that you are supposed to dump the tires when the wear bars first hit the surface, not when they are gone. My weakness is that I have always wanted to push them to the bottom of the wear bar. Gonna have to change that. When I had my bike in about a month ago for the shock to be replaced, the shop told me that the belts were showing on my rear tire! This was a shock to me, but sure enough, this is what I found when I put the bike on a stand and rotated the tire all the way around: [ATTACH]804[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]805[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]806[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]807[/ATTACH] So it seems that the majority of times I looked at the rear tire I either wasn't really paying attention, or I was seeing the section that still showed the wear bar! How did this happen? The answer is probably interesting, but incidental to my failure to properly inspect my tire often enough. That tire was mounted for me by my dealer as a favor to me after they had to re-do some work. It now seems to me that they mounted the tire and just left the old weights on the wheel from the previous tire. The section that was mostly worn through to the belts was about where the weights were, so the grossly out-of-balance section was being thrown harder against the road on each revolution, and the part that still showed the wear bar was the lightest part of the tire. So, lesson learned, right? Not hardly. I didn't want to let my bike sit while I waited for a new tire, so I mounted an old one that I had around for emergency use. This tire was just to the bottom of the wear bars and very flat, but I figured it was OK for a couple of weeks. And I watched it about the same as I had been watching the last tire! (Told you I was stupid - lesson not learned at all.) Well, at about the second weekend, when I was planing to change the tire, a short notice PGR mission came up, so I thought a while longer would be OK. This mission was over 100 miles away, and the return run was at high speed. All total, I guess I put close to 2,000 miles on this old tire. I'll cut to the chase here. When I pulled into my garage two days ago, I saw this showing on the back tire: [ATTACH]808[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]809[/ATTACH] Yikes! About half the tire has the center section worn through the tread layer with belts showing in a big section, and the other half just looks worn out. Bottom line is that I was very lucky that my negligence and assumptions about the tire condition could have turned very ugly but did not. I'd certainly like to think that I'll be doing closer full-tire inspections in the future, but only time will tell. I'm a bit chagrined that I wasn't watching that second tire closer after what I had just seen on the one before. I thought I'd subject myself to embarrassment and ridicule here because I survived this bit of stupidity only through sheer luck. Next time, if there is a next time for either me or someone else, that luck may not hold. If even one person looks at their tires a little closer, then this has been worth while. One last thought for you. As these pictures make completely evident, these modern tires do NOT have any rubber to spare under the last part of the tread. I have sectioned worn tires in years past, and they always had a thick layer of rubber left over the belts, but neither of these tires have that margin of safety. Don't push them too far! Ride safe, Goose
  6. Guest

    Foldup Footpegs

    wanting to put a set on my bike but wanting to get some input on them first before i purchase them bike is 1987 VR any info be appreciated thank you
  7. I just picked up the Plain Jane leather tool pouch from Carolina Leather Works [http://www.carolinaleatherworks.com]. I just mounted the bag to the from of my bike. It attaches right to the crosbar for the highway lights. This is the tool pouch, it's only $19.95+5.95s&h. I ordered it Sunday and I put in on the bike Thursday. I think I'll dress it up a bit with a Yamaha Star Concho. My tools (2 cresent wrenches, 1 3/8 ratchet, 2 metric hex key sets, 1 metric ratchet set, 2 philips screw drivers, 1 driver with 2 dozen bits) all fit snuggly. They won't be rattling around up there. This tool pouch will give me back some room in my saddle bag. Get bagged at Carolina Leather Works!
  8. Ok I know this has been beat to death but consider it from a different point of view. I have (easy now) a Kawasaki VN800B. It has no on board communication of any type. This is what I want to accomplish: bike to bike and driver to passenger when the wife and I ride the same bike. What are some of the experiences out there with two way radios and headsets. Brands of radios, headsets and place of purchase/price and results would be appreciated. Greying
  9. How much affect does a rear tire have on the tracking and unstable feel of a bike? A LOT! Much more than I ever suspected. In another thread several weeks ago I reported that I had to take off my rear tire before I had a new one available. Because I ride every day, I decided to re-mount an old Brickstone rear tire that I had sitting around for emergency use. This tire was flat as the proverbial fritter and mostly bald, but I figured I could run it for a couple of weeks. I was absolutely shocked with how bad the bike handled! This thing started trying to weld itself into every groove and ridge on the road, and if there was a spot near a light where the asphalt was bubbled or rolled up from the heat and weight of the cars, the bike would pitch hard back and forth as it contacted the uneven surface. Going over a ridge of uneven pavement between lanes was actually scary. All of this attributed to just the BACK tire alone. Last night after work I finally decided I had to mount the new Avon rear tire. Today, the bike handles absolutely perfectly again! No more tracking, the rolled up asphalt is undetectable, and the bike makes the transition between uneven lanes with hardly a blip. My front tire is an Avon Venom MT90 with 16,000 miles on it - same tire I had on it yesterday when it handled so badly with that old Brickstone rear. Today with a new Avon Venom on the rear, that 16,000 mile Venom on the front is handling every bit as well as I remembered when I first mounted the Venoms. I suspect that the quick handling that we get from the MT90 size up front actually made the impact of that flat rear tire worse than it was when it was still in use with the original front tire. On another note, anyone who has run the stock Brickstones is undoubtedly familiar with the infamous howl they make as they wear. I can conclusively tell you that the flat rear tire is where that howl is coming from! As soon as I put that old tire back on, the howl was back with a vengeance any time the bike as not being held in a perfectly straight line. The slightest hint of a lean left or right would just make that tire wail! Stay tuned for the next phase of this impromptu experiment. In about a month, while that new Avon rear tire is still new, I am going to re-mount the old fat Brickstone front tire to see just what effect that tire alone has on the handling of the RSV. I'll let y'all know! Final bit of information for anyone who has hung in here this far - I use a Harbor Freight tire changer that makes mounting skins a breeze. The learning curve is minor - after about the third tire change, the operation is so smooth and easy that dismounting and mounting a tire is truly a 5 minute operation. If you want to do this work yourself, that tool pays for itself with the very first set of tires you change. For anyone in North Texas who is interested, I'm more than happy to let you come over and use mine s'long as you bring a six-pack with you! I can't supervise without a beer, ya know? Good luck, Goose
  10. Guest

    Bike Cover

    Whats the best bike cover for the money + year round protection thank you. Mark
  11. Thanks to Cougar for the excellent write-up UPDATE How much Power? / Amps? Well As some of you know that I have been Adding all kinds of Goodies to my RSV this past couple months. I added the modulite. I added the 240 watt Amp. I added the New Speakers. I added the new LED lights all over the place.. trailer , bike ect. I added the Sirius Satellite Radio. I added the GPS Unit. Now with all that said, some of you and even myself wondered how the heck the Charging system would do? Well I got the kuryakyn battery meter today http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=metric&ci=2695 and hooked that bad boy up.. Then I started the bike up and turned ALL of this stuff ON! And holding the brakes on / radio full power (30) Even the HIGH BEAMS... these were the results with engine in the Idle mode http://www.venturerider.org/ampmeter/thumbnails/attachment_003.jpg Then I Brought up the RPM's to about 5k or so.. then this is what It was reading http://www.venturerider.org/ampmeter/thumbnails/attachment_002.jpg I shut the engine off and left all the stuff on for about 15 Min's and this is what it showed. http://www.venturerider.org/ampmeter/thumbnails/attachment.jpg Anyways! I feel better now knowing that my Electrical System Is able to handle all this kewl stuff I added without to much worry. Just thought I would share this Info with ya folks! (oh, that is with the trailer attached to the bike as well) (the meter also go's into dim mode at night) Jeff
  12. My new RSV rides like a dream. I do notice if I would loosen my grip on the bars, it seems to want to go left. As I have not had this bike for long (only 2000 miles) I was wondering, It this a tendancy of the Venture?
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