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Showing results for tags 'bearings'.
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Does anybody know if the front wheel bearings are a sealed unit or do they need to be packed? Thanks in advance.
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I received my Carbon One adapter w/legs ysterday. Today I installed the upper unit (fit perfectly), lifted the bike on my Sears ATV/MC lift and performed the Freebird recipe for tightening up the steering bearings. I now have tighter steering and all is well with the world. -
when in leaning thru a curve ( More to left) Im getting a Hummm Sounds like its coming from the front but not sure. If It needs bearings is it a standard bca # Or is it a ODD duck ? Planed on going on a trip this weekend... HELP:crying:
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Hi guys, after some nice help from the lads here about tightening the steering neck bearings as a temp fix to some steering wobbles, it seems that now I'm going to have to get them either repacked or replaced.. The techs who did the tightening stated that they did not feel any flat spots so the bearings should be good as is.. just needs repacking and proper tightening.. fun.. I was perusing various cycle sites and came across this one.. listing bearings.. what's the thought on these? (if I needed to replace mine after all) http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/14/138/21652/405/PITEM/All-Balls-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Kit-2006-Yamaha-Royal-Star-1300-Venture-Parts.aspx
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Has any of the 2007 models have any problems with the front wheel bearings going yet? Now I know, I'm a little special here. My bike has 36, 875 miles on it in two years. Yes, I live in South Florida & Yes... I ride all year round, Stinks to be me LOL..... pulled the front end off, to find the bearings, were hard to turn by hand. parts on order.
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I installed a new set of Avon Venoms on my '88 VR and went for a short ride. I feel a vibration over 65 MPH so I came back home and took the front tire and rim to the local stealer to get it balanced. He informed me that the tech said he couldn't balance it because the wheel bearings were worn out and that they needed replacing. At first I figured it was just a ploy to get more money out of me but then I considered that the bike is 21 years old and not being the original owner I don't know just how old the bearings really are. SO I told him I would order the parts since I get all my parts through Flatout and have so far saved a ton of money over the prices that my local stealer has quoted me. My question is just how dificult is it to replace these bearings and what all parts do I need to order from Flatout to make this repair. Also do I need any special tools to make this repair? Any excuse I can find to get new tools works for me! As always thanks for all the assitance. MC
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Does anyone have the definitive word on whether the fairing has to come off to do the steering head bearings? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=136845
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Well, I guess I need to replace my steering head bearings. I had the wobble at 80mph or so, and I tightened up the steering head a little. Now, the wobble is much better, but the steering response is way too sensitive now. It kind of feels like my tires are one inch wide now, and the bike teeters all over the place. Any small amount of input from me, and it overcorrects badly. I am constantly correcting back and forth when I am trying to cruise along. At acceleration, it is great, and as I said the wobble problem isn't near as bad. The bars aren't tight feeling either, just squirrelly. Sound like maybe new bearings and races will cure this?
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Ok so, I want to change my front wheel bearings as I think its time. I can get new bearings no prob. I can press in the new bearings no prob. My question is how does the home garage weekend mechanic pull the old bearings out ? I see fancy [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArFC3xPHhGA]tools [/ame]sets advertised to do such jobs, but I just don't have the budget for that, nor would I use it often enough to justify even if I did. I have looked for tool rental places but no motorcycle tools appear to be offered. Sure, I could pay someone to do it for me but that's no fun. There must be some trickery I can use. Lay it on me folks. Thanks, Brian H.
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if anybody can tell me the best place to buy some wheel bearings on line for my 83 that would be great, thank you.
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Does anybody have handy the industrial numbers for both front wheel bearings? Also, are double-rubber-seal type appropriate? Thanks, Jeremy -
Id like to get in touch with someone here who actually replaced their bearings and races in the front fork. Its due for a repacking but I figure since the front end will be down I might as well go ahead and replace the bearings and races. A phone call will be better than going back and forth with e-mails, etc. Thanks....
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Hi guys, returning rider needing help again. Please bear with me, I'm only 30 years out of practice when it comes to motorcycle repair, I want to make sure I've got it right. I've pulled my front wheel off to get the rotors turned. I'm sure that greasing the bearings is the proper thing to do as long as I've got the front wheel off. I'm assuming plain ol' grease is good enough. But if my bearings are bad, will I be able to notice this visually easily or do I need to clean them off with gas first and visually inspect them? Any other things I need to look for as long as I've got the front wheel off? Thanks! -
Hello Everybody! Great forum. I'm replacing the tires on my 86' w/53k and the rear ball bearing is a little crunchy. The needle bearing seems fine. I will probably replace the fronts to just because. My question is what is the model # of these cheap aftermarket bearings? I've seen people talk about them but can't find a model #. Also, which is the best online place for oem parts? Thanks in advance! -
I'm replacing the front tire and thought i would replace the front wheel bearings while things are apart. I have picked up 2-6303ZZ replacements locally. Should both bearings retain the metal shields? Currently on my wheel....I notice the left side bearing outer shield is removed....the side where the speedometer drive plate is right next to the bearing.....is this correct? Should I apply any or additional lube when assembling? Thanks.
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I have a 2007 Royal Star Venture and have a pulse what feels like the front tire. At 50Km (30 miles)/hr on new pavement and going straight the bike front end pulses up and down not a wobble side to side. The dealership has checked the driveshaft, the bearings in the steering and I have replaced the two tires. It has improved somewhat but I can still feel it. Has anyone had this problem and can you suggest what I need to check next?
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How many repack your bearings every 16k miles like the manual says? I have almost 30k miles now and was thinking maybe I need to do it this winter but it looks like it's gonna be a job.
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Anyone know what the numbers are for sealed bearings for the front wheel? I dont want to buy new unsealed ones from the local stealer at $40.00 each and I hip I can find some at NAPA that will work. UPDATE: Arrgh I asked this here before, I though it was on that "other" site... anyways, to make this useful for others..... 303SS and 6303S http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,118,303SS -- for the part at rock auto. I just got 2 of them for the price that NAPA wants for 1.
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Is it OK to use a synthetic grease on the drive shaft splines, I have a tube of Amsoil 2000 series racing grease which has a lithium complex, it says its good for high and low speed bearings, wheel bearings and any high performance/output equipment. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm going to remove the rear wheel to replace the tire and may as well lube the the shaft at the same time. Thanks Ian
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I built a trailer last year. The hubs were brand new and greased very well. Made one trip with it last summer and put 1700 kilometers (1056 miles) on it. I am going on another trip leaving this weekend and will be putting approx. 3500 kilometers (2175 miles) on it. How often do the bearings need greasing? Would they need it already?
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After nursing the UNI-GO home from CharlotteI with a rough souning bearing, replaced the bearings with a set of NAPA 6301-2ZJ bearings, perfect fit. The replacment would be easy, even on the road.
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OK folks, I have been meaning to post this for a while but just hadn't gotten around to it. There is a lot of talk here about the tightening/adjusting of the steering head bearings. There is a short cut method posted in the tech library on how to tighten them without tearing the entire front end of the RSV apart. This method works fine for a short term fix. I want to say though that the easy method is NOT the preferred method. At least, not for the first time you do it. The fact is, just as Yamaha is not very good at adequately greasing the rear splines and drive shafts on these bikes, they are just as bad at greasing the steering head bearings. You can tighten them to help with any looseness but the fact is, they need to be torn down and repacked. It is not a quick job and in fact, I would expect to spend about 6 hours doing it. It is a lot of work but sooner or later, you are going to have to do it. If you don't do it now, you will do it later when you have to replace the bearings. Bob Dakin recently had this conversation with a local Yamaha service tech. Bob mentioned that he needed to tear his down and grease the bearings. I think Bob has 30 something thousand on his RSV. The tech responded that he shouldn't even bother because most of these bikes need new steering head bearings at about 50,000 miles anyway. Well my response to that is that if they need new bearings at around 50,000 miles it's because they are properly greased from the factory. So, use the short cut method if you must. I've done it to. But keep in mind that it is NOT the long term solution. If you do it, you will likely have to do it again. They will loosen up again because the bearings are wearing due to inadequate grease. Once done and done properly, they will last a LONG time and it's not something you will have to worry about again for several years.
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As some of you might know, I have recently acquired an 89 Venture and am in the process of getting it going to my satisfaction. On the few rides I have taken so far, I have the dreaded steering head shake. It was quite violent at 30-40 mph if I let go of handle bars, but one hand on the bars and did not notice it. At 65 mph I could let go, but if the tire hit a bump or something, then the shake would start, slowly getting worse if not corrected. Driving with one hand it was not noticeable. Since I needed a new tire I thought that would be part of my problem OK, remove wheel from bike...but noticed that bearings seemed rough. Took the wheel to old biker friend, yup something not right here; both bearings seemed to move at same time. Replace bearings with new ones, replaced with new tire, but when static balancing noticed the wheel would not turn freely. It appears that the spacer that occupies the space between the two bearings was a bit too long. Took 2/1000's off and things looked great, and everything turned freely. Has anyone else experienced this? We measured the depth of a few different bearings and noticed there are a few thous differences...maybe this could be the problem? Anyway, installed wheel and torqued to 72 ft lbs. With no brake calipers on, the wheel would barely get one revolution for a strong spin by hand. I did not like this, and loosened torque to 50 lbs and get about 2.5 revolutions for a good hand spin. I did make sure that the pinch bolt is VERY tight as I did not want things to every come apart. SO, did I do right or wrong? One good thing, most of the steering head shake problem has gone away. There is a bit at 30 mph but nothing like it was, and there is none at highway speeds. Probably new tire helped a lot, but I can't help wondering if that spacer being too long caused a bunch of problems with the bearings...it sure made for rough feeling bearings.I feel good about turning the spacer down a bit but opinions are more than welcome. Sorry for the long post
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I PM'd Bill last night to see if we could mess with my bike some. He had some free time this morning so I took a putt over there. We (well he as all I did was watch) removed the AIS and then tightened the steering head bearings. The good news is no more cannon-like backfires and I actually have better handling now. It appears that the bearings were pretty loose, but it was a breeze to tighten them up. No more front end shimmy in turns . So, thanks again Bill, I appreciate all the help. That's what this site is all about. Helping each other out. What a great bunch.
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Got the frame cleaned off finally, got a couple of questions on the center stand bracing. To me, it looks like somebody has welded in triangular braces already. These welds, especially the one on the right side of frame (straight triangle, looks like left side, frame upside down), does not look like factory weld. Do I need to do additional bracing while I'm in here? No cracks are evident, will wait till I sand frame down (or get it sand-blasted) to check closer. Word of wisdom, as is evidenced at the kick-stand switch, leaking hydraulic fluid will eat the crap out of your paint job! Maybe I should just paint the frame w/ brake fluid to strip it! Next pic is again from the battery acid fumes due to no breather vent hose on the bike. Also noticed in the neck bearing races, looks like bearings have "set" themselves in one area. Should I replace the races and bearings as a set? Middle 2 shots-- my "wash-down" area (keeps me out of the doghouse-eh Dragonslayer?!) and the project I had before I got the Venture. Will get to it sometime! Thanks guys again, Dan Sorry the pics aren't that clear, still trying to learn this camera!
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