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Any suggestions on removing and replacing the lower bearing on the lower tree? I have called a few cycle shops and all wanted at least 40 bucks to do it IF it comes off smoothly! More if not. One shop said they wanted double because I wanted the old bearing off first, then take it home to polish the lower tree and return it to them to install the new bearing. Thats 80 bucks min labor! Got to be a better (cheaper) way. Any suggestions? The races look relatively easy to come out.

...... remove the bearing races from the front head ? I have the fork assembly out and will have my buddy the machinist remove the lower bearing but I need ideas on how to remove the races. Thanks Kevin

had rear tire replaced and steering head bearing,after i picked it up tuesday and road it home i noticed when i swerve back and forth the roar is gone however when i let go of the handle bars it shakes worse than before.(please don't say hold on to the bars)i called the dealer and he said that they cant press the bearing in so after i put 2 or 300 miles on it bring it back and they would re torqe the bearing. to me that sounds a little funny,need some imput.

and I'm not ready. We got about 12" yesterday. Got most of the driveway cleared and the snowblower broke. I had to order a new needle bearing and bushing for for the chain drive. Amazing that nobody stocks parts for a 40 year old John Deere snow thrower any more. Now it is snowing again so I just hope we don't get too much. I'm guessing it will probably be a week before the parts arrive. Send me a needle bearing for this if you happen to have one in your pocket.

I just hate it when I have parts left over! So, I just finished repacking the steering head bearings and I'm putting everything back together and I find this 'extra' part. It's a rubber washer (of sorts) with such an odd configuration, you'd think it would be easy to figure where it belongs. I've gone through the manual and every other sort of resource I could find, but I still don't know where to put it. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/83%20Venture%20Royale/rubberwasher.jpg The inside diameter of the washer is the same as the outside diameter of the ring nut pictured here. But, I can't see any purpose for it when installed that way. The only other possibility I can come up with is that it goes under the bearing cover on top of the upper bearing. If that's the case, I'd like to get confirmation before I button everything up. P.S. '83 Royale (if that makes any difference)

Is anyone interested in getting a steering head bearing wrench. These will work on 1st & 2nd Gen's. It allows you to set pre-load on bearings per service manual specs. PDF of procedure to set pre-load is attached below for 1st & 2nd gens. The MKI manual did not list this procedure, but it is identical to the MKII procedure. I sold out of the last order I had for these this summer and have had a few requests for some more. Trying to get a feel for how many to order. PM me or post to this thread if interested. Here is a link to previous posts on these. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45268 I sold about a 150 of them and everyone seemed satisfied with them. Yamaha version is around $80. If my price is the same as it was they will be $23 including US shipping. Canada will be $24. I would suggest any Canadians pay for priority shipping if they wanted them fast. I had some that took 3 weeks to get delivered to Canada. I sent one to Guam and it got there in 7 days. If you would like to pay at this time, I would appreciate it, have not been back to work for long, so it would help. I will order them in a few days, and ship as soon as I get them. paypal is gary@dinges.com If you don't have a paypal account, let me know and I will send mailing address. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5202.jpg

The trailer has about 20 miles on it. Other than that it's unused. It's in California, and I'm open to reasonable offers. Comes with spare tire and extra bearing kit.

Soooo, another silly clutch question. With the bike idling, I hear a knock from the engine, that goes away if I pull in the clutch. Sometimes, when you turn the bike off, it is a very hard knock. Obviously need to look at my clutch. So question is, does anyone know if this is indicative of a clutch bearing, clutch basket, or just a bad clutch? And from reading some of the tech articles, do I need to pull the engine to replace a clutch bearing? I am a little confused on that one. The bike is an 86 Venture Royale, with about 70,000 miles, if that matters. Thanks everyone for the input. Kevin

Was out last evening to just ride a while and was doing some low speed weaving in my lane. (like weaving the in line cones) was doing about 20-25 and heard/felt a little bumping noise that was reminiscent of a wheel bearing. I stoped and did what I could on the side of the rode to check for a loose front bearing. Don't seem to be that but!!! I checked (searched) the forum and most people said it was probably a tire issue. They look good. Met 880's Before I get it on the rack, What are the best ways to determine the problem in your opinion?

Have I missed something, or do I not have a clue about how to pack the bearings? This is on a Harbor Freight Tag-Along trailer. Took off the dust cover, removed the cotter pin, removed the castle nut and flat washer. Wiggled the wheel a little bit and the bearing moved towards me. I pulled out the bearing. This is a tapered roller bearing. I packed it full of good Lucas Oil wheel bearing grease. I reinstalled the bearing, flat washer and nut. Adjusted the torque on the nut , installed the cotter pin. I am confused about the posts about seals, etc. Am I not going far enough into the wheel? Is there more than one bearing per wheel? I just want to make sure the bearing is properly greased.

I'm replacing the steering head bearing on my '83. The manual says 5.1 ft/lbs. Where have you adjusted yours to with the hack attached? I've been told that you can tighten it down more to prevent wobble with the hack. Thanks

2 cans of Sea foam,( I see that they have a new style of can) a repeat of my sync skills and hard riding to get most of the kinks out Now Im rrunning without that ball bearing runs fine there is a slight back pressure from the right pipe...when I down shift to first

Explain this one I contacted the previous owner..... When I took off one of the Vacuum house I found a ball bearing lodged in the tube(photos) The reason he gave me was that the bike was back firing and the Yamaha mechanics shoved a ball bearing in it resulted no more back firing I removed the ball bearing ( im not a mechanic but I find that this is wrong) The right side now is backfring.. Any suggestion what to do?

How do I remove the ring gear from the differential bearing housing? I need to adjust the backlash on the pinion gear. I have zero backlash as it is. This is an FJR rear end, but it is essentially the same as a 1st gen. There is a shim under ring gear I need to replace, as well as changing the thrust washer which is accessible. I have ring gear and bearing plate separated from main housing, does it need to be pressed out, or just lightly tapped out? Parts breakdown shows no retainer clips. Gary

I need more advise. I decided to tighten the steering head bearing a bit today. I tried to loosen the top nut but could get it to budge. How hard should it be to move this? Do I need to use a cheater to break it free? I dont want to break anything. Thanks JR

How hard is it to change the bearing on the clutch. What I thought was a bad fan noise must of been the bearing. It sounded like it was coming from the front.I went on a 40 mile ride today and the longer i went the more noise it made. It would stop when I stopped. Also it makes a small clunking sound when it is in ideal with clutch out.I did see it takes a 6003 bearing from earlier thread. All is not bad though i finally get a job interview after one year off of work.It is for our public service company.NIPSCO Do they count off for spelling on here throwout bearing------have no clue why i put through

Wife and I are in need of the loan of some tools to facilitate me repairing her Jeep. If no one is near I can always find a Sears or Kmart and buy tools I need. We had a wheel bearing go out and cannot get parts until Saturday. We are at the motel we had chosen for our destination so no rescue mission is needed.

Thanks to Scott MacMartin from Ottawa Canada for this excellent article. 1984 Yamaha Venture Motorcycle Engine removal, repair, and re-installation Distance traveled since purchase 208,728 km (about 130,000 miles). This Venture was the second year of production, built January of 1984. My 1984 Venture was making a rumbling sound at idle, which went away if I pulled lightly on the clutch. I pulled the clutch cover off, and removed the clutch. It was apparent that the bearing behind this clutch was distressed. Late fall is a relatively nice time in Ottawa, Canada. Temperatures vary widely, from highs around 20 (70f) to highs barely above freezing. I put the bike in the back of the garage, borrowed my brother's 1500-watt heater, and set to replacing this bearing. The garage is now very pleasantly warm (and quiet too - I can hear my watch ticking). This is an excellent time of year to spend a bit of time in the garage with the Venture. First some tools. The Yamaha tool kit is useful, but not adequate for this job. I used the following additional tools: 1. Torque wrench (50 foot pounds) 2. Metric Allen key set 3. Feeler gauges 4. Hydraulic car jack with wheels (3000 pounds) 5. Socket set (10mm to 19mm) 6. 1000 pound press (homemade with 2by6 lumber) 7. Yamaha Shop service manual 8. Circlip pliers The engine can be removed in an afternoon, if you keep steady at it. Since my brain is not total recall, I place each part removed along the garage wall beside the last part I took off. That way re-assembly is just a matter of picking up a row of parts and bolting them back onto the bike. Clicking on the thumbnail photos will open a much larger copy of that photo. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/810a.jpgThe carbs, exhaust system, rear brake master cylinder, battery, and radiator have been removed. The bolts for the thermostat housing and the starter motor are a bit tight, and I have put WD40 on them. These bolts should remove easily tomorrow. A neighbor's child drops by to see what I am doing. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/811a.jpgThe bodywork has been removed, the YICS chamber, and the air deflector dams. Foot pegs and shift lever have been taken off. All of the engine attachment points (except three) have been removed. The small hydraulic jack with wheels will be used to lift and move the engine 2 feet to the waiting "pad". http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/813a.jpgThe engine has been out for 10 seconds or so. The engine rests on a piece of blue Styrofoam. It is apparent that the engine is also cosmetically not well - just have a look at that chrome cover on the clutch housing!! The radiator hoses are still attached. On re-assembly, I found it easier to put the radiator hoses on after the engine was in. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/814a.jpgI am working in a fairly small space - the back half of a one car garage. The blue and black boxes hold my tools. The floor has the parts, in order of removal - drive shaft, exhaust components, radiator assemblies, starter motor, and engine mounting hardware. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/815a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/816a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/817a.jpgSeveral photos of the failed bearing. You can see that the balls and race are perfectly fine, but the ball-bearings are all bunched to one side. The bearing cage has failed. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/818a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/819a.jpgThe oil sump has been removed. Two views of the oil pump. You can see small bits of the bearing retainer on the oil pump intake screen. Later, I found other pieces trapped in the baffles on the sump itself. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/820a.jpgThe various items that attach to the side of the motor are removed (stator, coolant and clutch housings, and the clutch slave cylinder). The oil pump is removed as a single unit, and is not disassembled. The crankcase bolts are loosened in order, and then removed. The crankcase easily pops in half. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr.shtml_files/821a.jpgI have placed the shaft with the failed bearing in the top half of the crankcase for this photo. It is only now that I realize that a 2ton press will be needed to remove this bearing. It is a press fit onto the shaft!! This should be an amusing problem to solve. Perhaps I will sleep on it... http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/823a.jpgI set the shaft with the stubborn/broken/press fitted bearing aside in the kitchen while I wait for the new bearings to arrive from the dealer. Yamaha Canada is amazing. EVERY single part that I order is in stock in the central warehouse in Toronto, and will be here in three days. Nothing is back-ordered or out of production. It is hard to believe that I am ordering parts for a 16 year old motorcycle. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/824a.jpghttp://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/825a.jpgThis is our first view of the upper crankcase. The shaft with the failed bearing is of course in the kitchen, so you cannot see it here. The rear shaft (the "driven" gear set) has two bearings that I will be replacing also. I will have to use a press to gain access to one of these bearings also. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/826a.jpgI now can guess why this clutch bearing failed. It is a standard ball bearing. However, unlike all the other ball bearings in this engine, this one ball bearing set must resist sideways thrust every time you pull on the clutch. I show here the clutch pushrod, the seals (I ordered new ones), and the bearing. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr2.shtml_files/827a.jpgThe shift mechanism has long seemed a confusing piece inside the motorcycle. I can understand its design when I look at it closely in real life, but in the photo it looks confusing once again. To me, a planetary gear set would seem a better way to provide gearing on motorcycles. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/831a.jpgThis is one of the covers that I cleaned up. The clear-coat applied by Yamaha back in 1984 had weathered a bit over the last 200,000km. This was removed with a paint remover that "removes epoxy paint". Does the job just fine!! Anything that I missed the first time comes off with a second application. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/832a.jpgIn areas that the cover had corroded, a gentle circular sanding with 400 grit wet sandpaper brought up a uniform appearance. I use soap with the sandpaper to keep the sandpaper from loading up. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/834a.jpgPolishing is a peculiar task. Place a small bit of polish on the rag, and then polish lightly until the polish dries out. At that point of dry friction, more vigorous polishing yields excellent results. I initially used a white shop cloth, but later used "White Swan absorbent and strong paper towels" with results just as good. (and I did not mind throwing these towels out after a single use!) http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr3.shtml_files/835a.jpgThese are the three products, and the most excellent result. I purchased a high temperature clear coat spray can used by the local Harley Canada dealer, and trust that it will provide an excellent long term protection. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/849a.jpgI went to the lumber yard, and for 5 bucks purchased a length of 2by6. Screwed it together, and drilled a hole of suitable size for the disassembly of this shaft. Note that the wheels on the jack are not supporting the force. A section of 2by6 is directly under the jack so that the jack does not try to move while under load. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/852a.jpgI push the shaft up effortlessly with the car jack, and the spring on this shaft compresses. The split washers appear, and it is a simple process to pull the split washers and disassemble the shaft. These two split washers, and the full washer behind them, were the cause of all that "second gear" grief in the 1983 and 1984 model years. I had replaced these split washers almost 100,000km ago when my second gear had failed and thought it might be a good idea to change them again. There was no need. Less that a thou had worn off these washers in those 100,000km (by comparison, the original split washers had worn half through in the first 105,000km, causing the second gear failure). http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/853a.jpgI have now replaced the bearing on this shaft, re-installed the spring and gear/bearing (the gear and upper bearing are a single unit and do not need to be disassembled). Apply a little force with the car jack to compress the spring, insert the washer and split washers. Release the car jack and the shaft is ready to go!! http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr4.shtml_files/854a.jpgThis same press was used to remove the failed bearing behind the clutch, and re-install the new one. The forces on this operation are significant - I would guess a thousand pounds force to push the bearing onto the shaft. While I replaced many items as part of this project, this one bearing was the only item that absolutely required replacement. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/855a.jpgThe cases drop together (with care to ensure that it IS easy, or something is out of place). Bolts on the lower cases and upper cases hold the two sides together firmly. I use Three Bond to ensure that the cases do not weep. You can see the 8 main crankcase bolts ready to be tightened. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/856a.jpgThe oil gallery has been dropped in place. The oil pump will be added after these bolts are tightened. Then the sump is put on, and the bottom of the engine is now completely assembled. I roll the engine up-side-up and torque the upper crankcase bolts to specification. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/860a.jpgThe clutch housing needs to be tightened onto the shaft that it rotates on. We will need a "special tool" to hold the basket from turning while we provide the correct tightening torque. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/861a.jpgOnce again, wood is my special tool maker. I drill a hole in the lumber so that I can fit the socket through, and fasten two arms (purchased for 29 cents each) so that they slide into the slots on the clutch basket. Then torque to 600 inch pounds, by far the highest torque of any bolt on this engine. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr5.shtml_files/862a.jpgThis is the setup. The torque is 50 foot pounds, so I use the empty frame of the Venture to hold the piece of lumber from turning. There is a lock tab under the bolt which must be bent over to ensure this bolt does not move. I bend it over with a screwdriver. I re-install the clutch plates, and torque down the pressure plate. The clutch housing can now be installed. The engine is ready to be re-installed in the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/863a.jpgI am very pleased at the appearance of the cams. They show no chipping, scoring, or other signs of stress. The exhaust valve clearances should be slightly higher than the intake valve clearances. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/864a.jpgA detailed examination shows the tolerances to be good. On the chart, some of the tolerances look "too tight" by half a thousandth of an inch. I am not going to replace a shim which is only half a thousandth of an inch out of range. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/866a.jpgThe valve covers need a little cosmetic refreshing as well. I ran these through the same process as the other covers, although I added "washing in the dishwasher" to get the crevices perfectly clean before spraying on the clear coat paint. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/868a.jpgThis multipart piece sits on top of the engine between the cylinders. It too needed shining up. On assembly, I used Three Bond to ensure that the part would not weep. (this part is normally sealed by two intricate O-Rings. The O-rings do their best, but are not quite up to the task on my Venture.) http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/870a.jpgThis multipart piece seems to do many tasks!! It has passages for coolant, sections for crankcase ventilation, and piping for high pressure oil to the cylinders. I will be happy to install this part and forget about it. I really hope it does not get an oil mist on it like it did over the last 100,000km http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/871a.jpgThis is the starter motor. If you remove the two long bolts, the motor comes apart for maintenance. The brushes are in excellent shape. This starter motor needed just a little cleaning up inside and out, and that's all. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/873a.jpgThe multipart piece is installed. The cam covers are being installed. The cam covers get new gaskets, and new "seals" around each of the bolts. These seals have never been previously replaced which is perhaps why they misted oil onto the cam cover. This task could normally be done with the engine "in" the frame, although it is vastly easier to accomplish with the engine "out" http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr6.shtml_files/874a.jpgThe engine is ready to install!! http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/877a.jpgThis is a task that I am a little apprehensive about. I am not exactly a strong man, and I am nearly 50 years old. This engine will have to be balanced on the jack and then kept balanced while I move the jack under the frame. The back end of the engine must go in first, since the drive shaft part must fit into the swing arm. Once that is in place, the engine can be straightened out and bolted in place. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/879a.jpgThe drive shaft part is nicely in the swing arm, and the engine can now be straightened out. I have lifted and lowered this engine a number of times by a quarter of an inch or so while I maneuver it around the various obstacles. Even so, I break a small tab on the upper fairing. I will repair this break later with a thin aluminum sheet. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/882a.jpgThe engine is back in!! I have held it with two bolts at the rear of the engine and an incorrect temporary bolt at the front of the engine. I am so relieved that this step has been successful that I stop for an early Saturday lunch. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/884a.jpgInstallation of the starter motor, and the oil filter (I use an aftermarket spin on filter for convenience). You can see the "incorrect bolt" just above the starter motor, which is temporarily holding the motor in place. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/885a.jpgThe coolant system gets installed, with new o-rings all around (the coolant system would occasionally weep a bit when left overnight. I had purchased the seals about a year ago but had not "got around to" replacing them.) The radiator sits ready to be installed next. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/886a.jpgThe radiator is in and filled with 50% aluminum antifreeze and 50% distilled water. The right frame tube needs to be installed next. This frame tube is one of the few parts that requires "Loctite Blue" when assembling. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/887a.jpgHere is a task that I have not ever done!! I have never opened the top of the rear master cylinder and cleaned it out. Turns out there is a little diaphragm (just like in the handlebar units) that could use a little cleaning. Bled this rear brake, the clutch system, and the front brake. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/photo_hdr7.shtml_files/888a.jpgHere is the jack that Scott used. Also the heater which made this job so relaxing and comfortable. On the heater sits the air cleaner box which has just been de-greased. And to the right on the floor, a large socket used to adjust the swing arm pivot bearings. Well, this is the end of the photo story. The rest of the bike needs to be put together. And then I expect to drive many, many years. I will let you know at 300,000km....

I would really like to use bearing buddies on my harbor freight trailer. Mostly for peace of mind. BUT I cannot find the right size. Does anyone know the size that I need? Wayne

I did a search for noise with transmission in neutral and found a couple of concepts about the noise source but just not sure what I'm looking at labor wise. Wondering what the most likely source of noise is. Working on a 1987 XVZ13DTC with 60000 miles. The bike is running great right now but I can hear a rumble that goes away in neutral with the clutch pulled in. When the clutch is let out in neutral the rumble comes back . It' not loud but it is there. Using a stethoscope I can hear the rumbling loudest near the oil fill plug. When the clutch is pulled in the noise is gone completely and everything is smooth. It sounds like a bearing rumble. Clutch works great no binding, grabbing slipping or other nonsense. Shifts great and clutch lever engages at the bottom almost as if the clutch is a newer one. (The bike is new to me) I am wondering what the most likely culprit is and how critical you guys think this might be and how soon it should be fixed. Biggest concern is that it is the ball bearing behind the clutch on the output of the transmission.(Part #8 in the transmission picture.) I saw the pictorial tech post here of a member who removed his engine to split the cases and replace the 30.00 bearing because the cage folded on the bearing behind the clutch basket and disintegrated leaving all the balls bunched up inside the two races. Or could it more likely be the clutch bearing itself? (#17 in the picture of the clutch assembly)

OK, I've got my rear wheel off to get the rotor turned and brake pads replaced. I'm planning on replacing the 6304 bearing , but I noticed that there's another bearing also. In the service manual, it's number is NK 26 x 35 x 25/3A. Is it neccessary for me to replace this one as well? My bike is an '84 VR with 71,000 miles. Thanks!

Hello Everybody! Great forum. I'm replacing the tires on my 86' w/53k and the rear ball bearing is a little crunchy. The needle bearing seems fine. I will probably replace the fronts to just because. My question is what is the model # of these cheap aftermarket bearings? I've seen people talk about them but can't find a model #. Also, which is the best online place for oem parts? Thanks in advance!

I'm replacing the front tire and thought i would replace the front wheel bearings while things are apart. I have picked up 2-6303ZZ replacements locally. Should both bearings retain the metal shields? Currently on my wheel....I notice the left side bearing outer shield is removed....the side where the speedometer drive plate is right next to the bearing.....is this correct? Should I apply any or additional lube when assembling? Thanks.

I finally pulled the thermostat housing and starter off my VR. My starter drags when hot, so I wanted to clean out the brushes, etc. Plus, I had a SLIGHT coolant leak out of one end of the elbow. I can't say it was a fun job. I realized the RH head pipe was in my way so I tried to remove it; couldn't get it out of the collector, but it did move forward enough to work around it. Well, you know how these things go. But nothing got broken, I have some factory parts in shipping and matched up all the o-rings at a bearing shop. I just bought a NAPA 156 T-stat as recommended by y'all. Mine was working OK, but while I'm in there... Somebody (forget who) said to be sure to ask for the "heavy duty" version. I did and the guy tried a couple ways of cross-referencing it, but it ended up that the number 156 only refers to one t-stat - there is no heavy duty. Did most of you just get the plain ol' 156? Also, I can't get it out of the housing - the rubber gasket is stuck pretty tight in there. Any suggestions? The starter has a bearing in the back by the brushes. Does it come off the shaft for cleaning and lubing? It's not really that dirty in the starter, I don't think cleaning is going to solve the hot-cranking problem. How much are those fat battery cables? Jeremy

Nothing like screwing up my hunt. It looks like the front wheel bearing is about to come out of my 04 Silverado 4x4. It's a 1500 ext cab series. I will order a bearing or hub assembly tomorrow. Anybody ever change one of these? No garage,cold outside probably snowing and I'm sure I don't have a socket to remove that axle nut with.local garage could probably get to it in 3-4 days at $50 hr.:snow2: