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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
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I did a search using the normal forum search and the google option to see if this is the "obligatory" re-solder but can't find it. So I drive home with no issue, stop in to make the wife happy, and go to leave again. Turn on the key, hit the button and,,nothing. No dash display at first and no start. After checking all fuses and the level of battery charge I try again and now the display goes through it's checks, the radio comes on, but when I hit the button I hear a faint click, no more. As if the battery is dead actually. But it isn't. Volt meter says it isn't and my charger says it isn't. What are the symptoms of the "re solder"
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My seat cover is in perfect condition EXCEPT for a split just forward of the seam where it meets the battery cover/false tank. Has anyone found a product to repair these?
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Was hoping I wouldn't have to post for advice in this section so soon after purchasing my 2005 RsTD last week. The bike has only 5400 miles. I picked it up last Friday. Rode it down to NYC where it sat in my parents garage till Tuesday. I drove over, topped off tires and air shock and rode about 400 miles. Left it parked till this morning. Today my dad went to start it to ride to work and get it inspected for me and no go, he said the battery was drained. Him and my brother push started it down my driveway and it fired up. He let it run for 15 minutes killed the engine and went to restart but the battery wasn't charging. The original owner replaced tthe battery last year and even gave me the old one. I am a complete layman when it comes to anything mechanical and really can't afford to take it to the stealership. Any advice? Only accessory iis a 12v adapter. -
The battery I took out of my bike is an energizer. Walmart has the identical wet cell 18 lb battery for 50.00. However, I can get a sealed battery for 97.00 but the terminals are slightly different. So, I thought I'd ask someone with experience. -
i'll try and make this short and detailed. fixin my buddys venture, a 99. died on the road to ny last fall, he put in new battery and didnt get to far before it died again. brought it to me, charged up the battery and tested the charging system. stator was 96v, ohm'd out correctly r/r tested fine all plugs appear to be fine. ignition switch was bad, did the temp fix i found here with the toggle. voltage output while running tested around 13 at idle and 14 at mid range rpm's sent him on his way, figuring the switch wasn't allowing system to charge. he rode it to work 2 days fine. third day he went to a store, came out and dead battery. jump started it and only made it 1/2 mile before it died again. last night charged the battery with a charger. this morning i checked the voltage while running again, at idle right now its 13.6 volts. i think i did a draw test right, and i'm getting 00.7 on the 200m scale with key off, i installed the new ignition switch last night. i will redo the charging system test procedure with the new switch installed. what am i missing? if everything appears to be correct? or are my charging values a wee bit low enough to eventually run the battery down while driving?
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Sometimes, and increasing in frequency, when I try to start my 06 RSv it sounds like my Battery is dead. It trys to turn over and can't,try again same ,after a few try's it starts to turn over,buy sounds slow, but it eventually it starts. At my last fuel stop I checked the battery before I tried to start it, 12.6 volts, but I had to hit the starter button 4 or 5 times. I had the napa store check my battery last week, they said it was fine. Any ideas? Thanks George
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Two weeks ago my 09 VSR stopped running as battery was dead, and Kreggerdoodle came and saved my wife and I. The battery was original so, it was about 3 years old. So I bought a new battery from Wally World. The bike has been working fine and seemed to be running well and I have been checking with a volt meter so seemed to be charged, because the battery was @ 13 volts. My wife and I went from Katy to Lexington, TX, yesterday about 100 miles and as we got there the battery died on us again. We made it where we needed to be, after being stranded on the road for a short time. A very nice woman gave us a ride to where our friends were @ a bar b q cook off. My buddy took me to the bike where we jumped it and I brought it over to where they were at and I charged the battery for about 4 or 5 hours on a trickle charger. We started going home and made it about 60 miles and shed died on us again. Had to call AAA and had her towed home. So my question to everyone is: Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can be draining the battery or why it won't hold a charge, or not charging. The bike is still under warranty but I am reluctant to take it to the dealer as I like to fix things myself if possible. I would really appeciate any input I can get. Thanks, Hal
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i was out today pilfering and came across this for $4.99 @ O'Riley Auto Parts, great if u have a battery tender already has the male/female plug..all rubber coated with a nice tight cap.. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc501/1hondaman1100/th_106_6937.jpg
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Hi Everyone. Having recently been stood at the side of the road after a camping trip with a flat battery. (Was my own daft fault) I have added the following system to my bike to top up the battery whilst it is stood in places without power. I have at home an Oxford Oximisor battery tender in my garage but use camping sites with no power on them. I purchased a cheap 12v 100ma solar panel and fitted it with two copper pipe clips with screws and spacers to fit into the panel screw holes which enables me to clip the unit onto the rack on the back of the bike. It can be fitted and face in any direction to catch the sun. I then converted a 12v plug in acccessory unit with a plug that fits my battery tender, you just plug the unit into this and can run 12v items from it or charge a mobile phone, sat nav etc. The unit comes with crocodile clips too so you could charge a loose battery too. I know it is not the ultimate charger nor the ultimate system but it will come in very handy. Neil. (Old Miner) Cost about £20 would be $15 ish.
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Gentl. This morning the bike had no problem cruising, after I got out of work and started to head home, the bike's rpm neddle started to go down and the bike stalled. After I came to a stop, I got it on nutral and pushed the kill swith, less than 10 seconds later I attempted to start it again and off we go with no problems. a few miles later the same thing. Like I'm loosing electrical power in my opinion. I know for a fact that the battery terminals are tight and I didn't notice anything weird with the battery meter. Any clues where to start troubleshooting? Thank you guys!
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I was doing some work on the bike today and took off the fake gas tank lid and a lot of metal stuff seemed to look rustier that it did the last time I had the lid off, (it might have been last fall) While cleaning things up and wiping dust and residue off everything under there i noticed that the drain tube was off my battery, probably happned when the bike got laid over last fall. Screws for the air cleaner, metal rings to tie down the battery and even some of the plastic were rusted or had a harsh residue on it. So have a good look and reconnect your battery drain tube if its not connected anymore. For those of you with the glass Mat battery just ignore this message. Brian
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Ever have a starter just get really weak? Like too weak to turn the engine over? Working on my 83 which I personnally have never heard run. Acts like a really weak battery but I charge the battery AND add a fully charged jump box on it and still, the solenoid clicks but the starter does nothing. Occasionally it will drag the motor over really really slow about half a turn then stop. I upgraded to 4 gauge cables when I put it back together after the trans upgrade. I pulled the starter off and laying in the floor it spins great. No indications of an issue at all. Back on the bike and stick the jump box directly on the starter and it still does the same thing. Oh and I did the internal ground mod while I had the starter off, still no difference. The motor turns free by hand, no issue. The starter reduction gears are in there correct and not binding. It just acts like the starter don't have enough power to do the job. I've narrowed down everything I know to do and it seems to me like it's simply a weak starter. I know the newer 4 brush starters are the way to go, but I thought I'd run this by the guru's and see if I may be missing something.
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I put the rear running lights on the + acc. terminal of my skydoc fuse upgrade. Then from the Acc. terminal to the switch, then to the rear lights. There is no relay in the circuit. It looks like the battery resistor mod is also on the same terminal. Question #1-Is it possible that when I turned on the lights that I could have blown the resisitor? It was fine during testing etc...but yesterday evening I decided to hit the switch to turn on the running lights and immediately my battery warning light started flashing and now it always on (with key on) Question #2 If I need to install a relay in the running light circuit, what do I ask for? Question #3 Does the battery resistor mod need it's own terminal?
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I was all packed up, helmet on and ready to go. Planned on an all day ride up to Ottawa for a new car-topper for the trailer, then down to Cornwall to pick up a set of carbs on the rack I had bought from Thirdbike. I kissed my wife goodbye....turned the key and ....NOTHING! I was up late last night playing with the running lights and I guess I killed the battery. "no problem" I thought, Just boost it off the car and I'll be on my way....a minor delay. Not so! It would not run. I could get it to fire, but it would rev up and die. It wouldn't stay running! Now I know my battery and charging system is OK because I NEVER have issues under normal operating. I suspected fuel delivery... I opened the one screw all the way out thinking it was the drain ...(it was the one that usually is 2 1/2 turns out) but no gas came out. I opened up one carb and removed the slider and diaphram to check and as I tried to start it I couldn't see any fuel misting in there or any other indication it was getting fuel. (Is that even a way to tell?) I checked the fuel filter. (What a pain to get to!) Sure enough when I blew it out I THINK a slug of something came out. I felt something bounce off my hand but it might even have just been a drop of gas. ( As gas was pouring out of the bike I realized I should have turned off the fuel supply first!!!) I charged up the battery while I was working and once I got it all back together I went for a ride for over an hour and it ran just fine. So now I don't know for sure if it was the fuel filter, or if the dead battery could have prevented it from running somehow. I had it connected to the car battery (car not running) so I have to believe it was the filter was plugged. Any thoughts?
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My son's friend just got an R6, 1999 he thinks, and is having a problem. He got a new battery and charged it. The bike starts with the charger attached but when he unhooks the charger leads the bike won't run. He let the battery charge over night in hopes that would solve it and I'll know later tonight if it did. If not what would you suspect. I'm thinking maybe bad or dirty connection on the ground or positive so that's where I'll start.
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When I was installing a digital amp meter I read one members reason to installing the meter directly to the battery by passing the ignition key. His reason was so he could check the meter reading occasionally during the non riding season, incase the battery was not charging he could get a replacement. Well I did that also, but during yesterday's ride I came across another good reason. Rode for an hour and all was fine. Then I noticed that my tack needle was flipping back and forth. Hmmm I thought a tack cable, no it has got to me an electronic gage. Then I noticed that my amp meter was reading 12.4 so I shut my driving lights off. Went to 12.6. Now during the 1st hour I noticed that with out the driving lights my amp reading was 14.1 and with my driving lights it was 13.8. Also the OEM volt gave was down also. Soon I was feeling the engine slightly cutting out but not too bad. I was about 5 miles from the next town. The temp gage was fine. So I figured I would try to make it into town rather than making an emergency stop and take a chance the engine would die and then not get it started again. Got into town and the slower my speed the rougher the engine ran. came about 20 feet from the parking spot and all electric went out and engine died. Scratch my head. Now let me see, last night I added driving lights, rotor lights, front fender lights, and rear trunk guard lights, and the amp gage. Used relay for the driving lights, all the other lights were LEDs except the light that goes around the circumference of the roto, so I did not use relay for them. Used a lighted switch for all. 1 for amp meter, 1 for driving lights and one for all the other lights together. So after calling some members it was thought that the battery might have just totally died. But the strange thing was that the amp meter keep showing 12.5. The 12.5 meant the battery is still good. So I went about check al the fuses, but the key thing was that everything except the amp meter was dead. So then found the main fuse, and it was good. Then there it was. I noticed that the positive terminal screw was loose. The main positive battery cable came off. Now how could that be. Being in a hurry to finish the accessories add ones I missed the hole in the cable and so the cable was wedged on tight. So after about 1 hour ride the cable came loose thus causing the tack fluctuate, the engine to miss, the battery to drain. As long as I was moving a 50 mph the shaking kept the cable bumping again the positive terminal/ When I came to a almost stop the cable was no longer being shaken against the terminal and thus a dead engine. So had I not connected the amp meter directly to the battery, I probably would have tired to locate a Wal-Mart for a new battery. The rest of the ride around Hoods Canel was marvelous. Never rode it before. An after thought, maybe I should carry one of the those hugh main fuses. Under what situation would one of those blow? It looked like it might be a 50 amp to 100 amp fuse, just guessing. -
I changed my iPod name to Titanic. It's syncing now. When chemists die, they barium. Jokes about German sausage are the wurst. A soldier who survived mustard gas and pepper spray is now a seasoned veteran. I know a guy who's addicted to brake fluid. He says he can stop any time. How does Moses make his tea? Hebrews it. I stayed up all night to see where the sun went. Then it dawned on me. This girl said she recognized me from the vegetarian club, but I'd never met herbivore. I'm reading a book about anti-gravity. I can't put it down. I did a theatrical performance about puns. It was a play on words. They told me I had type A blood, but it was a Type- O. A dyslexic man walks into a bra. PMS jokes aren't funny, period. Why were the Indians here first? They had reservations. Class trip to the Coca-Cola factory. I hope there's no pop quiz. Energizer battery arrested. Charged with battery. I didn't like my beard at first. Then it grew on me. How do you make holy water? Boil the hell out of it! Did you hear about the cross-eyed teacher who lost her job because she couldn't control her pupils? When you get a bladder infection, urine trouble. What does a clock do when it's hungry? It goes back four seconds. I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger. Then it hit me! Broken pencils are pointless. I tried to catch some fog. I mist. What do you call a dinosaur with an extensive vocabulary? A thesaurus. England has no kidney bank, but it does have a Liverpool . I used to be a banker, but then I lost interest. I dropped out of communism class because of lousy Marx. All the toilets in New York 's police stations have been stolen. Police have nothing to go on. I got a job at a bakery because I kneaded dough. Haunted French pancakes give me the crepes. Velcro - what a rip off ! Cartoonist found dead in home. Details are sketchy. Venison for dinner? Oh deer ! Earthquake in Washington obviously government's fault. I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure. Be kind to your dentist. He has fillings, too.
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My 91 Voyager has the battery light on but it has a new battery and it is getting 14v at idle I am wondering if it has the same battery sensor that the VR did for wet battery's. If someone has a clue on Voyagers give me a shout, this is my first one. Tom
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I just bought my RSV. It ran fine for a couple of weeks, then the battery went dead. I charged it up, it started fine, the next morning the battery was dead again. The only thing I can think of that changed was the activation and connection of the IPOD that cam with the bike. I was told it shuts down after the bike is turned off, but since removing it from the connector, the battery hasn't died again. I'm thinking that something in the IPOD stays live, even when the timeout kicks in. Any additional experiences with this? Thanks, forbey PS: how do I attach the state map to my signature?
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2nd generation 2005 RSV Trike, I parked trike a week ago in the garage and placed tender on battery. Tried starting tonight and have NO power. No radio,lights, satallite radio, dash or horn. Battery seems to check good, local Autozone confirmed it should be good. The alarm still activates but one thing I did notice is alarm has very week chirping when tripped. Checked main fuse it is good. I have no idea where to go next. Battery is original.
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I believe my CMS (computer monitoring system?) is damaged. Has anyone attempted a repair of the board or logic chips? I have an '89 VR and have had it for 3 years. It had a sealed battery when I got it and I know about the "resistor Mod" for the "Battery Level Warning". When I read about the Mod--I looked at my bike and saw that the probe was removed and wired into the fuse box. Mod done--right? I have recently addressed the issue of a weak charging system and shortly after solving that issue--my Battery Warning came on. I looked closer at the probe Mod and realized there was no resistor installed! I immediately installed one--then another---then a 100K "pot" in an attempt to satisfy the CMS. With the pot--I was able to try voltages as low as 2.2V with no success. I traced the rest of the circuit to the connector at the board, but all was good. I took the CMS apart looking for any obvious damage (blown caps--etc.), but all looks perfect. Despite this, I believe something within the CMS must have been damaged. I decided to unplug the red "LED" until I can fix it properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated--Shawn -
Got a problem that is driving me insane and Im hoping either this has happened to someone else and they know how or someone knows the solution. So I was riding my 83 1200 venture and I noticed the volt meter was reading lower than normal. I figured it was because it was getting colder and just kept driving it. Well next time I tried to start it, the turn over was much slower, but it still started. Guage still low. Stopped for gas and bike would not start, not enough power so I push started it and drove it straight home where unfortunately it has sat for a while now. WHen I first brought it home it would still half way attempt to start, just slowly, then it wouldnt do that, then the cluster just went dark. I tried hooking up my battery tender to it to see if that would fix it but it wouldn't even register. I took to battery to autozone to get them to charge it and have not tried that yet. Does this sound like a battery problem or something else. Let me know what you think. Thanks:fingers-crossed-emo
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I just got my '87 adVenture and I've posted an intro on the intro section. I had a couple tech questions and was invited to repost them here. It is a 1987 Royale, 39k miles. Original paint about C- condition, will probably look B- when cleaned up and waxed. All plastic seems to be there with a little cracking on fairing. Slight tear on seat which is otherwise very comfortable. All systems seem to work, except battery may need changed. Had to jump to start, but massive corrosion on positive post. Seems to run okay on the center stand, a little rough on idle, like carbs unbalanced. Sounds pretty good otherwise. Battery is on charger now to see if it will hold anything. It has a curious probe that goes down into the middle top of the battery with a wire attached and there is what appears to be a diode or resistor in that wire as well. Front tire is almost new and the rear looks good. This bike was ridden, but not much recently. Immediate plans are to get the battery issue resolved, possibly replace the main fuse with a blade fuse, maybe even the glass tube fuse block with blade fuses. I use printed circuit board fuse receptacles and epoxy them together in an array to fit inside the original fuse holder. Then I think I'll put a set of fresh plugs in, make sure I have good voltage to coils, maybe balance the carbs. Do the valves on these need adjusted or are they hydraulic like the 'Wing? Is there a sticky post on trouble spots to take care of for new owners (other than basics of oil, tires, etc)?
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Well here goes. I have been stranded several times in the past by batteries and don't necessarily mind buying a new one before it is needed. I bought my '09 RSTD in June of '10 and it came with a BikeMaster TruGel battery. I was looking to maybe get a Shorai, but they are so dang expensive. I ended up getting a YSS Shock and decided it would be a good time now to change the battery as the shock is easier to get to thru the battery compartment. I was going to get an Odyssey but I never did like how the posts are and it is usually a PITA to get the wires to be just right. I looked at some of the posts on this site and saw good info on the Deka, and considering the price ($90.95 to my door) decided to pull the trigger on an ETX20L from Bohannon Battery. I phoned them Wednesday and since they and I are both in Florida I got the battery on Thursday via USPS. The battery is very well packed with styrofoam: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6885911518_6bd0bbb4ff_b.jpg The battery case on first inspection looks to be very well made and very sturdy: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/6885917970_5de955993c_b.jpg I like the posts; they look easier to deal with than the captured nut style on other brands and screw hole found on the Odyssey. I am not sure what the post material is, you will have to be careful not to strip them when they are tightened: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7240/7032017739_abe90d43ff_b.jpg The battery includes 2 bolts and copper washers. Deka has a very elagent solution to include the screws: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/7032016931_89f0fa3849_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7265/7032015837_b003a8c803_b.jpg Here is the Bike Master TruGel in my RSTD: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7075/7032018807_87a524119a_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7131/7032020597_9a5c264e65_b.jpg I never liked the case on the TruGel. It seems to be cheap and toy like and very plasticy, more plasticy than a plastic battery case should be like. Side by side I think the Deka has a much better, and more industrial construction feel to it: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7111/6885925022_f08531ea0c_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7032023643_0f69efa292_b.jpg Alright, well let the flames begin. I took the battery and shock out last night. Going to put it all back together today. I will post a separate post on the shock.
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Well I had a little time so I dug out my 83. I got the headlight changes, lowbeam still does not work GRRRR. I had already had it on the charger. Got it fired up, stung bad for a bit then cleared up. Took it out for a spin. Stopped at a friends place to chew the fat. when I went to leave the starter just growled, no start. I let it sit for a couple hours and tried again, nope not happening. We pushed it down his drive n got it started, not to hard. Got home and let it sit until I got home from work. Tried to start it and nothing. Checked the battery and it was dead so I figured it was bad and got a new one. Not the battery is dead again and still no start. Any ideas? Shaun
