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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
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Anyone have any experience with Sears brand Battery maintainer? I have one and in the last month have had to refill the battery twice. It seems to be charging, when in fact the battery is dead. New battery in May so that is not the problem. I'm inclined to think that I have a faulty charger and it is giving too much of a charge and boiling the water out of the battery. Any ideas before I head back to Sears?
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Alright, so that '77 XS750 that I bought... I was tinkering with it this weekend and all said and done, I got the old girl to fire up. I traced my prior electrical issues to a faulty ground wire... specifically the one running from the battery to the ground on the engine. I'm thinking the connection at the battery is to blame, but as there isn't much slack in the wire unless I re-route it, I think I should just replace it.. so my first question: What guage wire should I use to replace the ground? And is that something that would generally be easy to get? Next question: Whoever owned this bike before me... I have no clue what this guy was thinking when he worked on it... but the airbox was in pieces, parts of it were missing... and there was no air filter. So I opted to remove the air box completely and go with the clamp on style pod filters. This left me with my new problem... the bike has a hose that ran from the back of the engine into the airbox... The shop manual states that this hose routes carbon emissions back through the carburators to be reburned. the original air box had a spot where this connected, but with the pod filters I'm stuck with leaving that hose hang loose. When I had it running, I was getting some nice smokey exhaust coming up out of this hose. Anyone got any ideas on what I can do with this? Should I just plug it or should I try to fabricate something to cycle it back into the carbs? Final question: once again, no clue what the previous owner was thinking, but the wires to all the lights (brakelight, headlight, turn signals) have the grounds all spliced together into one ground. And the guy evidently didn't know what to do with it, so he wrapped it in electrical tape and left it hanging loose. I jury-rigged a wire to it and connected it to ground and amazingly enough, all my lights that I thought were dead came to life! so now for the question: Do I just ground this to my battery or should I run a new wire down to the engine ground or just ground it to the frame? Thanks in advance for ya'lls help. I really appreciate it!
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Ok, so some of ya'll probably remember I bought a '77 XS750 for $50 a month or so ago. I pulled the carbs off and cleaned 'em.. put 'em back together and figured I'd see if it'd turn over. I toss a charger on the battery and after a few hours go to take a look. I got lights to come on (neutral indicator and oil light) and when I hit the starter it clicked. I pulled the charger off and checked the battery.. bone dry... Not surprising as it sat for 3 years before I got hold of it. So I bought a new battery. Installed it and now I'm getting absolutely nothing. No lights, no pleasing click... nothing. I checked the fuses and none of them appear to be blown. I cleaned the connectors on the wires to the battery... I've poured through my shop manual.. I can't find anything. Any ideas?
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I want to purchase a battery charger for my 06 RSV. I want to leave this on all the time so when I pull into the garage I can hook it up to the extensions. I am not too swift when if comes to the the "electricals" of the bike (I can wire my house...but know nothing about the electricals of a bike). So I don't want to damage the battery. There are battery tenders and battery tricklers. What do people recommend, why, and what do you have. I'm not sure of the difference. A very popular product in this area is called Battery Tender. It has 3 versions: Battery Tender Jr; Battery Tender Plus; and Battery Tender Jr. Waterproof. I have a full battery charger at home, but I want something I can attach to the battery and just leave there and plug in if I don't ride it for a week or 2. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks Painter
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Hello there folks and fellow riders. I have another problem with my 1988 VR. Recently my battery warning light started flashing. My volt meter reads ok, but the warning light started flashing, then turned solid red. When I am driving at low speeds the light turns from solid red to flashing, then turns off. Once I increase my cruising speed it starts flashing again and then turns solid again. I don't experience any hard starting or battery draw. Helpful advise? Don (FREEBIRD) gave me advise on the CLASS system which helped immediately. Thank you:322:
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YAMAHA VENTURE BATTERY REPLACEMENT AND CM WARNING BYPASS BY JACK (Condor) CHALAIS http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY1.jpgBecause we were experiencing hard starts, erratic cold starts, and low battery voltage after our '83VR sat for a few days, we decided to replace the existing battery, installed by the previous owner, with one of the new AGM (absorbed glass matt) batteries that have recently become available due to new technology. Having never had any experience with these new maintenance free types, but doing a lot of research we felt that a new ODYSSEY AGM would solve a lot of our hard start problems. For more info click here http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY2.jpgAfter removing the false tank cover, the battery is located under fuse holder. Remove the fuse box by unhooking the rubber hold down strap.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY3.jpgWith the fuse holder out of the way the top of the battery with the low battery acid sensor. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY4.jpgLocate the white/red striped wire leading to the sensor and cut with a pair of dikes. Make sure to leave the wire long enough to work with later on. The sensor might have a different colored wire coming out of it and spliced into the white/red. In this case it's blue. We chose to cut the blue wire after the crimp to give us room to play with, but before the crimp will work as well.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY5.jpgUndo the battery cables and remove the battery from the box. Set aside the cable screws for later.. This is the time to do a little house cleaning. We found our box interior coated with white acid corrosion. We soaked the box interior with a baking powder/water mix, and then tried to blot up the residue. No luck. Had to remove the battery box to get it cleaned up properly. I removed the 2 screws at the base, and with a little coaxing got the box out. If your screws are in bad shape due to the corrosion, replace them with those set aside from the cables.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY6.jpgOnce the house cleaning has been accomplished set the new battery in place and hook up the cables. We found the ODYSSEY, although heavier than the wet cell, had a smaller footprint. Later we added strips of packing Styrofoam to fill the voids.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY7.jpgAfter installing the battery, turn the ignition key to the start position. The CM will go thru it's normal check list if everything is connected properly. Because the battery sensor has been disconnected the red warning light and battery icon will stay on. You can continue to operate the bike like this, or take a trip to your local Radio Shack and pick up some 1k and 2.2k ohm resistors. They run a buck for a 5 pack. They're cheap and the reason to pick up both is, one or the other will work, and if you should happen to pick up the wrong size it would cost more in gas than it costs for another pack of resistors, to run back up to the store. So go ahead....splurge! You might also pick up a tube of silver bearing solder while you're at it. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY8.jpgOpen the top of the fuse box and locate the accessory fuse. Remove the fuse. If your lead is held in by a screw, attach an 8" piece of wire to the terminal using a terminal eye. In our case they were crimped in and we soldered the end to the existing wire stub.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY9.jpgClip the ends of the resistor wire down to something manageable to about 1" in length. Solder the resistor between the lead from the fuse box and the sensor lead. Don't forget to place a piece of heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the resistor and the lead ends before doing any soldering. http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY10.jpg Put the fuse back in the accessory, and turn the ignition key on again. The red light should go out and the CM thinks it has a full battery. If not, try replacing the resistor with one smaller or larger, as the case may be.http://www.venturerider.org/battery/YAMAHA%20AGM%20BATTERY_files/ODY11.jpgReplace the fuse box top, and in this case we will filled the gaps with paper towels. Later we replaced the towels with about half inch Styrofoam so it looks like we knew what we were doing. Button everything back up and you should be good to go. We found that with the new battery the scoot started quicker, warmed up without sputtering, coughing and missing, and idled much smoother. We feel we made the right choice. Hope this helps. ~Jack
